Everyone is talking around the point, but none to the issue. The issue: If you change the geometry of the shocks, you must compensate for the geometry of the wheels to some degree by allowing for correction of the camber, caster and toe-in for the tire.
In the older VW front suspensions, there was an allowance for the strut towers to be moved with eccentric bolts, much like one of the adjustment points on the '06 and later rear suspensions; a washer that is off-center. They did away with that adjustment too many years ago...
There are some aftermarket adjustable strut tower mounts, which are able to correct some of the camber/caster issues, but they are expensive and don't always get it there. The other parts to investigate are the front and rear control arm bushings on the steering suspension, as that will tend to make the tires go toe'd out and add the the negative camber problem.
Years ago, we found a quite elegant solution that fits for most situation's camber problem. We cut the lower ball joint slots with a carbide cutter to allow the bottom of the wheel to come in, as much as 3/8". Maybe a bit more, but only as much as is needed to make camber adjustable to stand the tire up at 0 degrees. Although by the book, VW likes to see the tire's camber to be slightly negative (1/4 -1/2 degree, we find that if the tires are stood up at a 0 camber angle, life expectancy of the tire is increased dramatically.
So, if you are on a good flat surface, with the tires properly inflated, wheels dead straight ahead, the toe-in and the camber can be reasonably worked out. Although the 'right equipment' is supposed to be able to get alignments accurate, I usually suspect the accuracy of the person setting up the equipment.
The final proof of an ignorant alignment shop is tires that wear out and the shop owner points the finger at you or the vehicle as the problem. If they are what they claim, their JOB is to MAKE CARS RUN TRUE. I sure wouldn't let the same company who installs my tires, sets the alignment incorrectly and then expect to sell MORE tires for MORE abuse? I think not....
Caster is a bit of a bugger as the caster may only be by bending the frame. Some small amount can be compensated for by loosening subframe bolts and knocking the subframe into a better position, but even the measurement of results gets a bit tricky. Frame measuring points of reference are needed and there is some guess-work. We have only gone after that problem when there is an obvious large variance in caster from one side of the vehicle to the other.
There is a limit to how much lift you can apply without changing the shape of some of the suspension parts. I am not certain 2" is an acceptable limit. We have a 20(3/4') and 40mm (1.5") front lift kit, which is cheap and effective, but the car will never be a 'stump jumper', nor was it intended to be. In the back we apply AirLIft bags, which is reasonably cheap and kinda fun, especially with a heavy load in the trunk
