WOODWARD395
Active member
hi been looking for the setup for installing new turbo 1.9 tdi using vcds cannot seem to find anything is there one on here if so can anyone point me in the right direction. thanks.
turbo vnt 1.9 tdi using vcds
- Thread starter WOODWARD395
- Start date
hi been looking for the setup for installing new turbo 1.9 tdi using vcds cannot seem to find anything is there one on here if so can anyone point me in the right direction. thanks.eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
??
The only thing VCDS is used for is logging and adjusting boost. Otherwise it's manual replacement of physical parts
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The only thing VCDS is used for is logging and adjusting boost. Otherwise it's manual replacement of physical parts
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Mongler98
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- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Location
- COLORADO (SE of Denver)
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- 98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
you cant. you need to either
A: buy a tune someone has made Darkside industries or Malone Tuning
OR
B: write your own tune with a flasher and software. VCDS has nothing to do with any of this at all.
you have more searching and reading ahead of you.
my advice is to contact a tuner in your area and ask them for assistance.
as for just replacing the turbo, that's a hardware application you need tools for and parts.
A: buy a tune someone has made Darkside industries or Malone Tuning
OR
B: write your own tune with a flasher and software. VCDS has nothing to do with any of this at all.
you have more searching and reading ahead of you.
my advice is to contact a tuner in your area and ask them for assistance.
as for just replacing the turbo, that's a hardware application you need tools for and parts.
WOODWARD395
Active member
thanks realised how to adjust the boost now using live feed logging.
just get it as close to spec as possible that's correct is it not, thanks
have adjusted stop with mini vac 17.7hg
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eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
I run a log then adjust. My goal is about 150-200 mbar above peak requested.
I use the malonetuning.com website graphing feature to view the log and show the overboost.
150 mbar is 2.175 psi 200 mbar is 2.9psi. well within specs.
I have read to adjust the actuator so it starts moving at 5" and stops at 15" I think. But a proper actuator should do that and it's impossible to see when its installed by the firewall. So adjustment for boost is best I have found. However, a pain dealing with the heat of the exhaust.
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I use the malonetuning.com website graphing feature to view the log and show the overboost.
150 mbar is 2.175 psi 200 mbar is 2.9psi. well within specs.
I have read to adjust the actuator so it starts moving at 5" and stops at 15" I think. But a proper actuator should do that and it's impossible to see when its installed by the firewall. So adjustment for boost is best I have found. However, a pain dealing with the heat of the exhaust.
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WOODWARD395
Active member
i have burns all over my arm from exhaust plus a couple of slices out of my arm from bracket that holds sump sensor,
WOODWARD395
Active member
Vnt turbo adjustment got it wrong.
seem to have the adjusting rod too short i think as MAF sensor is double the spec at 475 sucking too much air in and fuel injection is too high adjusted with mini vac before fitting never thought it would be that far out its one way to destroy my engine lot of adjusting to do now thought it was going to be easier, lol just wish i had smaller hands.
tried to find VNT turbo adjustment procedure after cartridge replacement can find nothing on step by step.
seem to have the adjusting rod too short i think as MAF sensor is double the spec at 475 sucking too much air in and fuel injection is too high adjusted with mini vac before fitting never thought it would be that far out its one way to destroy my engine lot of adjusting to do now thought it was going to be easier, lol just wish i had smaller hands.
tried to find VNT turbo adjustment procedure after cartridge replacement can find nothing on step by step.
eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
People, say to adjust so it starts to open at 5" and is fully open at 18" vacuum.
I've never had it work that way because the actuator begins to move and stops at those vacuums either way.
I find it best to run a log and then adjust the actuator, then log again to see what difference it made.
I continue doing this until it overboosts to about 200mBar on the log and I'm done.
200mBar is about 3psi.
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I've never had it work that way because the actuator begins to move and stops at those vacuums either way.
I find it best to run a log and then adjust the actuator, then log again to see what difference it made.
I continue doing this until it overboosts to about 200mBar on the log and I'm done.
200mBar is about 3psi.
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WOODWARD395
Active member
Thanks set the stop as you state at 18" but getting too much air and over fuelling over boost if i'm correct causing white smoke so now i need to lengthen the rod I think as when i set it up i changed the cartridge never moved the rod until i put the mini vac on it set it to 18" then adjusted the rod to the stop then double checked.
the thing that confused myself was with the old cartridge fitted the stop screw was all the way out only approx 1/6" sticking out and never had a problem until seals went.
the stop is now out approx 2/8".
the thing that confused myself was with the old cartridge fitted the stop screw was all the way out only approx 1/6" sticking out and never had a problem until seals went.
the stop is now out approx 2/8".
eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
That's why I run a log then adjust.
Might burn the arm a little, however, the stops not there to prevent overboosts. It's there to stop it from moving so far it can't go back.
In my experience with the actuator, everything's backwards what you think it should be.
The actuator needs to be longer, not shorter. It pulls out to move the turbo lever and the stop is where it's closed, not open
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Might burn the arm a little, however, the stops not there to prevent overboosts. It's there to stop it from moving so far it can't go back.
In my experience with the actuator, everything's backwards what you think it should be.
The actuator needs to be longer, not shorter. It pulls out to move the turbo lever and the stop is where it's closed, not open
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jmodge
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The way I read this is, you are adjusting the stop not the actuator arm linkage. If so, that may be your issue. The linkage synchronizes physical start of boost with what the ECU wants
WOODWARD395
Active member
yes i originally set the stop off the vehicle with mini vac 18" now on readings group 11 vcds i have rpm 819 boost specified 1040.4 actual boost 969 charge pressure 81.3%
MAF sensor states 475 and disconnected goes to 550 its been checked and all is ok with MAF sensor its giving me white smoke on acceleration what i am trying to work out would 1.3% be causing such a rise on air intake as obviously ECU is delivering amount of fuel for amount of air so lengthening the rod should lower air intake or should i shorten it to lower percentage.
have read so much now getting myself confused
the reason i was asking about the stop screw is originally it was hardly screwed in at all with the original cartridge installed the new cartridge looks exactly the same yet when set up with vac its screwed in a lot more i just got a bit worried when i read this
If the Turbo VNT Stop Screw is screwed in too far, the turbo will not begin boosting until a higher RPM. This will put excessive load on the engine, cause over fuelling, sticking vanes and can result in turbo failure and again engine damage.as my screw is a lot further in.
don't want to take it on the road due to the smoke as can get a decent log to set up then hopefully.
MAF sensor states 475 and disconnected goes to 550 its been checked and all is ok with MAF sensor its giving me white smoke on acceleration what i am trying to work out would 1.3% be causing such a rise on air intake as obviously ECU is delivering amount of fuel for amount of air so lengthening the rod should lower air intake or should i shorten it to lower percentage.
have read so much now getting myself confused
the reason i was asking about the stop screw is originally it was hardly screwed in at all with the original cartridge installed the new cartridge looks exactly the same yet when set up with vac its screwed in a lot more i just got a bit worried when i read this
If the Turbo VNT Stop Screw is screwed in too far, the turbo will not begin boosting until a higher RPM. This will put excessive load on the engine, cause over fuelling, sticking vanes and can result in turbo failure and again engine damage.as my screw is a lot further in.
don't want to take it on the road due to the smoke as can get a decent log to set up then hopefully.
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eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
Is this, 819 boost specified 1040.4, top end and in mBar? If so then it's not bad at all. That's just over 3psi
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WOODWARD395
Active member
Last edited:
eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
That's common, it's under. Those are mBar readings. Run a log and see what it does.
Third gear idle to 4000rpm at WOT and adjust the actual to Max at 200mBar above requested.
It always overshoots and moderates it back down.
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WOODWARD395
Active member
just to clarify at idle the veins are totally closed hardly spinning as i thought at idle it closed veins to spin veins faster giving a venturi effect cant take it on road due to smoke from over fuelling i believe its cramming air from readings need to get it down first.
unless something else is causing it never had this before never had this much trouble with my previous Golf as its been a money pit since i got it.
OK think i may have got my head around it as someone has already stated its normally the opposite to what you think, never done so much reading for a long time just need to remember it all.
The smoke problem was the CCV valve all cured now.
unless something else is causing it never had this before never had this much trouble with my previous Golf as its been a money pit since i got it.
OK think i may have got my head around it as someone has already stated its normally the opposite to what you think, never done so much reading for a long time just need to remember it all.
The smoke problem was the CCV valve all cured now.
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WOODWARD395
Active member
This has been a great help made it so easy once i got my head around it thanks.
eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
Glad you got it sorted, hope it runs well
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