Amateur (ham) Radio in a TDI

I finally had the time to install my Kenwood TM-D710.

After looking for a relatively easy way to run the power cables from the battery, through the firewall, under the dash, down the side of the door sills/carpet back to the trunk, I decided to use the trunk mounted 12V
power supply. The current draw of the Kenwood at high power is half of the rated capacity of the 12V outlet, and I don't plan on running full power, so this arrangement is much simpler. I mounted the main RF unit in the trunk, up underneath, opposite the Sirrius unit.

For the antenna, I used a trunk-lip mount, of which there are several manufacturers that will work. I don't want to drill the trunk or the roof, due to potential leaks and future resale value hit. The antenna I am using is a Comet SBB-5, which has great asthetics and performance.

From the trunk I ran the control head cable and microphone cable under the back seat, up over the carpet to the center console area to the radio control head. For now I have the control head mounted up in the cubby hole forward of the shifter. I tried using Velcro with sticky backing to mount it between the shifter and the cupholders but the Velcro did not adhere to the plastic center console more than a few minutes. There is a hamfest in April that always has an assortment of mounting hardware. I'll probably use a pedestal mount of some type, but preferrably not one that takes up a cupholder or requires me to drill holes that are visible after the radio is removed at a later date.

Here are a few images of my install, which I have yet to tidy up with wire loom.

Hello,

boertje said:

Any of you guys running HF in the mobile?

Click to expand...

I'm currently between HF antennas. But I had good luck with my ATAS-120A by Yaesu. It tunes automatically with the touch of a button on my Yaesu HF tranceiver. Some say the ATAS and similar "screwdriver antennas" are a big compromise in performance. I agree. But I liked the easy removal, easy tuning, price, and relatively subdued look. I got a good signal report from Europe. So it must work at least adequately.

I wound up breaking that one due to mistreatment. I'm contemplating another one.

Scott

Wow, Hams and TDIs, oh my!

I have always been a fan of running a large cable directly to the battery, or the power distribution pack that sits on top of it if your car has that. That way you have a complete separate run that is the most free of engine computer interference (both ways) Of corse, put a fuse at the battery!! Good luck with the antenna mount, spend 3 hours checking and 3 minutes drilling!!

Also, I'll take this time to insist on a fuse for the Ground cable to all radio equipment. Why? well, if you have an antenna (grounded to frame) and a radio (grounded somewhere else, likely the battery) and the vehicle has a bad ground to the engine, the starter can pull its full current through that antenna coax!

Imagine a fire department in route to a vehicle fire, that turns out to be their very own brand new fire truck fully engulfed at the local Motorola dealer. A good friend of mine doesn't have to imagine, he saw it happen! It turns out the engine ground was loose.

73,
KI4AWK

I also run a Commet SBB-5, excellent antenna

It took me a while to get around to installing my radio, and I still haven't taken any pictures other than these two from when I was running wires. With the flurry of recent posts it reminds me I need to get some pics posted. Hopefully I can do that in a couple of weeks - working nights, lots of hours right now.

Radio is ICOM IC-208H. Head is mounted below HVAC controls. Body mounted on driver's side of cargo area. Kenwood KES-5 speaker mounted above brake pedal. NMO mount behind shark fin antenna (drilling this hole was the scariest thing I've ever done to a car - especially a new one). Started with Larsen NMO 2/70, but then swapped to a Diamond 72BNMO so I can fit in the garage (when the wife is out of town).

Anyone done an installation on a NB yet? I'm trying to figure out how the best way to mount my Icom V8000 for now. I can hang it under the seat heater control block, but that kills the use of the cup holders. Eventually, there will be two or three more units that will join it, but that's down the road a ways.

This thread needs more install pics...

I will post some of mine as soon as I am done. Waiting on a couple of trunk lip mounts.

Finally - Here are my Install Photos

I'm not sure which order to put these in, so here goes.

Here's an look at my dirty car from the back.
It was very scary drilling the antenna hole in my roof, but without a trunk to use a lip mount I wasn't really sure where to put it. I used an antenna saw (not a punch) and it worked out well, only slightly off center (~1/16") as first noticed by the wife. Originally I had a Larsen NMO 2/70B, but reluctantly switched to the Diamond NR72BNMO for the shorter lenght (I could weasel through most parking decks I visit, but when the wife let me in the garage I had to remove the Larsen which was about 24" too long to make it).


A couple of overviews from the inside. I'm using an Icom IC-208H. I have a Icom V8000 in my truck which I like, but really needed a remote head in the car due to space constraints. In case your wondering, the "W" button was added as a switch for my emergency lights as opposed to modifying one of the blank covers to be a switch (which I also did next to the traction control button for my garage door opener).

The one thing I haven't really figured out yet is where to hang my mic. Right now it just sits next to the shifter. Not a big annoyance, but I would like a more secure place to put it, but with space being so limited I haven't found any reasonable place that isn't in the way (on dash, next to ignition, driver's side of center console, etc.).




I mounted it to the same plastic trim up under the cubby/ash tray (same as the outlets are mounted to). I had them custom made at a local shop out of 1/8" aluminum and then found a place to powder coat them. In hindsight it would have been better to design a bracket that pivoted because the head angle is not optimal to see the LCD, though it works. You always learn something the first time around it seems. I trimmed some plastic screws from Lowe's to slide the head into. Overall it works out real nice as an alternative to the Icom bracket.




My speaker is mounted behind the steering column. I went with the Kenwood KES-5. It's a commercial speaker and can handle 40W which is a far cry from most ham mfg. speakers. I read too many tales of them going out, and for what they are they seemed way overpriced unless you wanted something fancy like noise cancelling.


Here's the microphone wire. I had wanted to mount the microphone plug somewhere in the center console as a recessed plug (like a network plug on a wall cover plate) but ran out of time & energy. Running the plug under the seat works ok, but isn't the safest given the seat moves (I used zip ties from the cables to the seat handle). So far it works ok, it's only unplugged itself once or twice.


I wish I had a trunk to mount to the underside to (like so many others). And I can't mount to the seatback either since it's nice to lay them down sometimes. One day I'd like to do something nicer, but for now I trimmed a piece of 1/4" plywood to fit the driver's side storage area in the back (I had to remove the built in door/cover when I had the panels out to run wires. You can see all the wires coming from over the wheel well. To that I've mounted to radio body and below it I'm distributing power with a Rig Runner 4005H. I thought about stealing power from the power outlet, but wanted I needed more power options (i.e. when car is off) to run other things (emergency lights since I'm a firefighter, and I have other, as yet unrealized, power ideas for various things).




I ran a 10ga wire pair from the battery, through the firewall and down the driver's side trim and into the Rig Runner. There was an unused Maxi Fuse location in the fuse box so I butchered that up to add a 50A fuse for the Rig Runner. I only have the positive lead fused and will probably go back and add a ground fuse (I learned the hard way during installation I had a wire crossed and almost melted lots of wires sending power through the antenna ground - more learning as you go). After that, speaker and control wires run back under the trim to the B-pillar where they cross and come out under the seat (for the microphone) and in the center console area for the head and speaker wires. The speaker wire then goes behind the console and wraps around to the brake pedal area. Some of the other wires included in the bundle going up the driver's side trim is power and control wires for my emergency lights. It was very difficult fitting all the wires under the trim and if I need more, I'll have to find another route. The driver's side is definitely FULL!

Yaesu 857D in an 01 Golf TDI stick

I have, actually its the wifes car, a 2001 TDI 5 sp Golf and I'd like to mount my Yaesu 857D in the car. I can't drill any holes in the car. I might be able to put a K 400 mount on the car but no screwdriver so i'm stuck with Sierra slims (their hamsticks).

Any suggestions and actual pictures would be super as to where to mount the radio. Also no vent mounts for the head.

Thanks

meknc said:

I'm not sure which order to put these in, so here goes.

Here's an look at my dirty car from the back.
It was very scary drilling the antenna hole in my roof, but without a trunk to use a lip mount I wasn't really sure where to put it. I used an antenna saw (not a punch) and it worked out well, only slightly off center (~1/16") as first noticed by the wife. Originally I had a Larsen NMO 2/70B, but reluctantly switched to the Diamond NR72BNMO for the shorter lenght (I could weasel through most parking decks I visit, but when the wife let me in the garage I had to remove the Larsen which was about 24" too long to make it).

Click to expand...

I finally got up the nerve to drill the hole for my NMO roof mount in my '10 JSW. I ended up using the same location you did. It's probably the safest location for the car and was easy to get to. I have the panoramic moonroof ("pano roof") which severely limits my options.

The NMO roof mount uses a 3/8" hole and is made by Laird. I've used Larsen mounts before but hate 'em due to the large hole they require. I like the 3/8" hole mount because it preserves as much metal as possible and the antenna mount part makes a good bite on the metal. The 3/8" threaded center part feeds up from below and the larger top piece threads onto the center part.

I have no pics to post but ended up using the same antenna location you did.

meknc,

Thank you for all the photos, I have a Golf but this give me some ideas.

Dave
KD4VEO

HAM Radio in the MK6 Golf TDI

I've read through this whole thread and would like to ask again if anyone has photos of their HAM Radio installation. I am especially interested in where you install in a late model (2010 - 2012) Golf TDI. I'm weighing the option of drilling a hole in my roof or going with some kind of mount on the lift gate. I'm not wanting to build a small shack on wheels, I'd prefer just a 2m rig but it looks like I'm going to have to go with at least a dual band to get a remote head that takes up minimum space. Goal one, make it look factory. A clean and functional installation is a must for me, I've got that OCD thing going on.

Thanks in advance for all your help,

Dave
KD4VEO

KE4MD here

Sorry about the lousy pictures, but these should give you an idea of
how you can use a lip mount with a dual bander.
Equipment is a Kenwood Tm742a using a Diamond K412SNMO mount topped by a Comet SS680SBNMO antenna.







I am sure the smith chart for this wouldn't be as good as a center mount or even roof mount, but this month's QST has a good antenna article on this very topic and this mounting location may not be so bad after all. I can hit distant repeaters on low power. Hope this helps.

Dave
ND8Y

Hamman,

Exactly what I was looking for. I'm still up in the air as to what type of radio I want to install in the Golf. I want to keep it simple and maybe just put a 2m in but everyone is telling me to go at least dual band. And I can't find a 2m radio with a removable control head. Where you have your's mounted is my first thought but if I go with a smaller control head I was thinking of trying to mount it above or below the rear view mirror. My major concern with putting it there are all the air bags in the A and B pillars. I've installed all kinds of electronics in cars and trucks before but never one with so many air bags! Thanks again for taking the time to post these photos.

Dave
KD4VEO

I finally got around to checking power in my car a month or two ago. First of all, it's horible with the hatch open, so don't try (SWR 2-2.5). With the hatch closed, SWR was 1.04-1.2 (between low and high power - 5W, 15W, 50W). The numbers are identical with the car off or running (idling in driveway - haven't tried measuring it while zooming up and down the road). I haven't installed any additional grounding straps, etc.

Victor
Alpha
3
Mike
Tango
Mike

Present and accounted for.

I'll probably be installing my FT-7800 in the Golf this spring once the weather warms up. My magnet mount antenna with the co-ax running into the trunk will do me just fine.

I'll be using a head separation kit and an external speaker for the install. There's not much room to hang it under the dash in the car.

My APRS runs off a secondary radio/antenna, but I'm not sure if I'll be installing that hardware in this car.

getting 12 wires thru the into the cabin of a 2012 Passat TDI

Has any one found an easy way or any way for that matter to get a pair of 12 guage wires into the main cabin on a 2012 Passat. I cannot see any grommets in the fire wall to sneak the wires thru. Actually the engine compartment is so packed and with the Insulation I am hard pressed to even see the Firewall. I want to install my Yeasu FTR 350 in the car and have found a place for the radio and the control head. I just need to get power to it . Anybody else had any luck with this ?
TNX and 73

Russ W4PGT

de KD5YZU

picked up my 2009 JSW yesterday

I want to mount two antennas (one for 2m and one hamstik for HF) for my 706MKiig which I plan to place in the back feeding off the factory installed 12v outlet.

I use the "Quick-Disconnect" adapters from the folks at HamStick.com on my other vehicles, and was hoping to do the same with the JSW.



The JSW I picked up has the moon/sun roof, so my target area seems to be only around the AM/FM antenna.

I plan on cramming some ham gear into my car this summer with time permitting. I've got everything I yanked out of my previous car, just haven't had a chance to put anything in. I want a new radio though as I do a lot of D-STAR and am the admin for 2 repeaters. (Well, 1 right now, the other goes up when the 400' tower is done being built.)

73s,
Dave, KE5BMS

(Oh, and subscribed!)

Installed my Kenwood TM-D710 on a Lido LM-300 gooseneck seat bolt mount today.

Pics:

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showgallery.php?cat=5546

I had a nice long description typed out but it disappeared...too upset right now to redo it.

Later

KD8KXK here. (Just a tech, although I'm now strongly considering getting my General, and getting a radio capable of HF. All I've got now is an Icom IC-V8 that someone gave me when I got my ticket.)

Actually, I don't think I've ever operated from my TDI. (I kinda lost interest in radio for a while, and that was before I got my TDI.) I've definitely operated from my Miata, though, but just using my HT.

Mainly because of my apartment situation, I'm going to have to mount all this to the TDI. I'm thinking FT-857D - all-band capability will be nice, and I think I can make it not look too whacker (even with having the control panel up to the right of the stuff cubby (where the previous owner had installed a ProClip AMPS-compatible mount, perfect for this)).

As far as antennae go, not sure what I'll do. The goal here is to not go too whacker, although I don't mind drilling holes - it's a 14 year old car with over 220k mi.

That said, if I can hide the holes, even better, and I kinda like this guy's install on an Escort wagon, and I think I can replicate it on my Golf (I know, the hatch opening is slightly different on the Golf): http://pages.suddenlink.net/w4ydy/w4ydymobile.html#Little

I've seen the mixed reviews of the ATAS antennae (both on performance and durability), and given the price, I don't like that. Size looks good for my needs, and integration with the FT-857D would be nice, though.

May just set things up for VHF/UHF mobile, HF portable. So, for HF, drive to where I want to transmit, and either use an auxiliary battery or idle the engine.

Here ya go!

What's up with that Hi-Q thing?

VeeDubTDI said:

What's up with that Hi-Q thing?

Click to expand...

It's for mobile HF operation. The antenna is a lot longer than what's in the picture.

bhtooefr said:

KD8KXK here. (Just a tech, although I'm now strongly considering getting my General, and getting a radio capable of HF. All I've got now is an Icom IC-V8 that someone gave me when I got my ticket.)

Actually, I don't think I've ever operated from my TDI. (I kinda lost interest in radio for a while, and that was before I got my TDI.) I've definitely operated from my Miata, though, but just using my HT.

Mainly because of my apartment situation, I'm going to have to mount all this to the TDI. I'm thinking FT-857D - all-band capability will be nice, and I think I can make it not look too whacker (even with having the control panel up to the right of the stuff cubby (where the previous owner had installed a ProClip AMPS-compatible mount, perfect for this)).

As far as antennae go, not sure what I'll do. The goal here is to not go too whacker, although I don't mind drilling holes - it's a 14 year old car with over 220k mi.

That said, if I can hide the holes, even better, and I kinda like this guy's install on an Escort wagon, and I think I can replicate it on my Golf (I know, the hatch opening is slightly different on the Golf): http://pages.suddenlink.net/w4ydy/w4ydymobile.html#Little

I've seen the mixed reviews of the ATAS antennae (both on performance and durability), and given the price, I don't like that. Size looks good for my needs, and integration with the FT-857D would be nice, though.

May just set things up for VHF/UHF mobile, HF portable. So, for HF, drive to where I want to transmit, and either use an auxiliary battery or idle the engine.

Click to expand...

Avoid radio burn, is all I can say. I suppose you would need a plate to prevent antenna radiation from entering the car. My ham license is getting ready to expire.

The problem with a lot of the mobile HF antennae is, if it's really good, it's gonna be big and UGLY.

And, why that thing looks so ugly... worst case, it's designed to be tunable between 10 and 80 meters. That's a HUGE range to tune between, and you need a BIG antenna to do 80 meters. (A 1/4 wave would be 65.6 feet long. So, you need a big loading coil to get the length somewhere in even a vaguely acceptable range for a car.)

(That ATAS-120A is tunable between 40 meters and 6 meters, while working (but apparently not well) without tuning on 2 meters and 70 cm.)

I've got an Icom V8000 tossed in the passenger floor that I've been running for about 18 months now. Just got my KX3 in on Wednesday and need to build it up for install in the bug. I can hardly wait til Elecraft releases the 2M module for the KX3 and then I can move the Icom to the truck. I haven't selected a new antenna yet, but I am taking a serious look at either a Scorpion or Hi-Q.

For what it's worth, I found this:

Mk4: http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk4/index.php?id=2652
Mk5 (doesn't include Jetta, so trunk lid MAY be suitable, but isn't listed): http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk5/index.php?id=2097
Mk6 (this is a different car from the Jetta, so it doesn't apply at all to Jettas): http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk6/index.php?id=2269

I think these are ELSA extracts, so anything from the Mk4 era or newer has this info, but the New Beetle section is limited, there's no B4 on the site, B3 doesn't have the info (but the Mk6 is more flexible than the Mk5 for HF+6 m, so it could actually be different), no B5 or newer on the site, and anything that's a US-specific model isn't on that site.

Guess I need to cut a hole in the roof, to play it safe, even on 2 m/70 cm. To be fair, the mounting ideas I had would probably be higher drag coefficient anyway...

I used to run 2m in the car; I now regard radio operation in the car much the same as I do phones and texting, and I have nothing mobile fitted in any vehicle, although I may carry an HT. I "shut up and drive." That's my stance, and I'm stickin' to it.

WE9E