davemc
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2003
- Location
- Ohio,USA
- TDI
- 2005 Jetta 2.5L Value Editon 5Spd, 2004 Jetta TDI (250,000 mi.)sold and 2001 Beetle TDI automatic (wife's)sold
\'98 Jetta, testing glow plugs, harness, etc.
Hi all
it's been awhile since I've visited here, but needed some advise. I've had several of the older style VW diesels and have had opportunity to rebuild three of them, so I'm familiar with the diesel system, BUT that's the older system & there are some big differences. For one major thing TO ME the glow plug wiring harness is no longer an easy to access/check bare wire or conductor. It sure looks prettier with a plastic 'boot' over all of the plugs, but not as convenient to test. Which brings me to my point. A few months ago when I started having starting issues ( dipped below 32F) I immediately took time to pop off the boot and check each GP with an amp meter that I still have from my previous diesels- checks +/- 60 amps and the older plugs were usually good if they read ~15 amps each. When I checked these several months ago they each read ~15-20 amps. I figured they read different because of slightly different style and figured they were all good. I have since replaced(reluctantly) the GP relay because it was indicated by the VAG-COM codes, and i just failed emissions test for the FIRST time ever with a diesel. Now my problem is that when I tried to remove the GP boot it was pretty stuck and I while I was able to get the 1st plug leg off, i was afraid to break the boot removing it in the cold weather without 1st removing the fuel pipes 1st. Any ideas/suggestions on removing the boot and especially on testing the boot and other components of this newer system?? I do have the Bentley manual for what its worth. My VAG-COM is currently not functional, because I switched laptops and haven't reloaded it on another unit, but I could reload it - only that it wouldn't be 'activated' until I was able to get in touch w/ Ross-Tech. I am also interested in thoughts on what others have done to protect the fuel pipes, & the individual injectors when removing pipes temporarily for maintenance, etc? Very much looking forward to replies, and will be back in a few hours to check this forum. I'm in the southwest Ohio area of the US, by the way. Thanks everyone!
Hi all
it's been awhile since I've visited here, but needed some advise. I've had several of the older style VW diesels and have had opportunity to rebuild three of them, so I'm familiar with the diesel system, BUT that's the older system & there are some big differences. For one major thing TO ME the glow plug wiring harness is no longer an easy to access/check bare wire or conductor. It sure looks prettier with a plastic 'boot' over all of the plugs, but not as convenient to test. Which brings me to my point. A few months ago when I started having starting issues ( dipped below 32F) I immediately took time to pop off the boot and check each GP with an amp meter that I still have from my previous diesels- checks +/- 60 amps and the older plugs were usually good if they read ~15 amps each. When I checked these several months ago they each read ~15-20 amps. I figured they read different because of slightly different style and figured they were all good. I have since replaced(reluctantly) the GP relay because it was indicated by the VAG-COM codes, and i just failed emissions test for the FIRST time ever with a diesel. Now my problem is that when I tried to remove the GP boot it was pretty stuck and I while I was able to get the 1st plug leg off, i was afraid to break the boot removing it in the cold weather without 1st removing the fuel pipes 1st. Any ideas/suggestions on removing the boot and especially on testing the boot and other components of this newer system?? I do have the Bentley manual for what its worth. My VAG-COM is currently not functional, because I switched laptops and haven't reloaded it on another unit, but I could reload it - only that it wouldn't be 'activated' until I was able to get in touch w/ Ross-Tech. I am also interested in thoughts on what others have done to protect the fuel pipes, & the individual injectors when removing pipes temporarily for maintenance, etc? Very much looking forward to replies, and will be back in a few hours to check this forum. I'm in the southwest Ohio area of the US, by the way. Thanks everyone!