G235 Bank One temperature sensor replacement guide -P0455
Brought our '10 JSW to dealer today as we have had a check engine light for a couple of days. After charging $98 to pull the codes, we were told it was "Tech found EGT fault codes in system as vehicle has 4 sensors, tech isolated a faulty 235 get sensor-located behind particle filter Quoted customer $519 parts/labor/diagnostic. Had to pay the diagnostic fee to ransom the car, and on the way home the glow plug light started flashing. I gather this job is a little tough for the average home tinkerer, does anyone have an idea how many hours this job should book?
Hello all, Here is a simple guide to help replace your G235 Temp sensor, Bank one. It is a 2-3 hour job at home, on ramps and you will need the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) mentioned above.
I recieved a flashing Glow Plug and a P0544 code.
VCDS will tell you G235 and which Bank is faulty.
The Part number for my VIN was 03L-906-088L.
This is the sensor with the Black Connector, which is easy to locate the connector portion. Your G235 Connector is the black one, below the Orange Connector.
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The threaded portion of the sensor is just below the Turbo, threaded into the Exhaust Manifold. Not a very friendly location!! (Item#37)
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I didn't have time to wait for the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) so I simply modified a 17mm deep 3/8" drive impact socket. You can do this with an angle grinder and cut off disc.
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Here's the new sensor and it works best with a flex head ratchet and 6" extension.
The easiest access is from above, once you locate it!!! You still have to remove the belly pan and access the bottom to route the wires properly.
.Here are some basic steps:
- safely raise car and remove belly pan.
- locate the black connector and simply pull it out of its steel attacment firewall clip. Typical VW connector, squeeze the tab inwards with your thumb, while compressing the two connectors together. This easily releases the connection. Do not use screwdrivers to pry or lift tabs!!
- gently unfasten the loom and unclip the plastic and steel holders.
- pay attention to the routing from under the car!!
I removed this cover (17mm wrench) to help see the wire routing:
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- fully seat the socket and remove sensor from above.
- coat the threads of the new sensor with high temp thread anti-seize. Do not get any on the sensor tip. Avoid touching the tip, similar to the cautions you use with headlight bulbs!!
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I struggled to get the sensor in from the top. I made up this Push Stick from a coat hanger to guide and insert the sensor from the bottom:
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Make it about 12" long!
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Up she goes!!
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- Tighten the sensor from above, ensuring the angled tube is not touching the oil line. Official Torque is 45 Nm or 33 foot pounds.
**you have to re-index the socket every 1/3 turn, so the angled tube doesn't contact the socket body!!!**
- carefully re-route the wire, replace the zip tie and clips.
- insert the connectors and test pull apart to make sure they are locked.
Make sure the wire can not contact the EGR filter or DPF.
- reinstall the plastic driveshaft shield and belly pan..
Avoid prolonging changing this sensor. While it is faulty, no regens will happen. I left mine for about 250 miles, to be rewarded with a DPF light. Thankfully, after about 50 miles, the DPF light went out!!
Here is more information and a great site!!:
http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk6/index.php?id=5185 .
Hope this helps,
Please feel free to add any more tips!
All the best,
Andrew