Timing belt tools and parts

I have read till the cows came back home and see a couple different places to buy the tools needed for the timing belt change. Also different belts and water pumps etc.. Id like to get some feedback from the guys who have used them and not step on any toes. Any suggestions/feedback on what you did or didnt care for in a certain kit or tool? Im taking on the project myself after getting a $975 quote for a TB change today.
Thanks in advance. I'll have the A4 Timing Belt 120 page PDF memorized soon.

thats actually not a horible price. $100 in labor, 8 hour job for most.

Was that from a reputable TDI mech on our list here or some generic (can do it all ) shop?

ID parts is probably the best place to go to. Not sure ig german auto parts is still around but they both are great. You can Make some of of the custom tools yourself fairly easily, others not so much but some owners have.

I've had good luck with hepu metal impeller water pumps, franko6 trusts the dayco belts, I currently have 3 continental belts in the fleet.

As for tools, I like the long reach cam lock, idparts had the cam counter hold tool on sale recently, Amazon has an awesome sprocket puller or you can buy a tool kit from metal man or whatever the name is

The more tools you buy the easier it'll be/better chance of getting it right. On the flip side, you can use a file and sawzall blades and a drill bit and do all of it...

If you have done timing belts on gas cars, take your time and don't modify the procedure on your first one, if this is your first timing belt period...you're gonna have fun.

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You can rent tools
https://metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=53&categoryId=9
Or you can buy
http://www.metalnerd.com/catalog/category/6267972
You'll also need VCDS to wrap up the TB change
https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/vchv2_ent/
Also, for TB kits, whatever idparts, metalmanparts, or dieselgeek is selling is going to be great, and are run by people who directly support this site and community.
Have fun!

Thanks for the replies. Ive got the Ross Tech already. Ive changed timing chains on ford modular engines(4 chains, 4 cams) . I have never done one on a diesel. I plan on buying the correct tools. Maybe 20 years ago I would have MacGuyvered it...nowadays i measure twice and cut once. I just wasn't sure if it was the same tool kit from different drop shippers.

Mongler98 said:

thats actually not a horible price. $100 in labor, 8 hour job for most.

Was that from a reputable TDI mech on our list here or some generic (can do it all ) shop?

ID parts is probably the best place to go to. Not sure ig german auto parts is still around but they both are great. You can Make some of of the custom tools yourself fairly easily, others not so much but some owners have.

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It was from the shop listed on here in Iowa. I figured i would have $600 in it with parts and tools doing it myself so it made sense to just give it a go and have some new tools. I will check out ID parts. Thanks.

I made my own tools - the dimensions are posted around here somewhere. The cam lock is the only "real" tool. The IP lock pin can be a drill bit. You'll need something to counterhold the cam to loosen and tighten the bolt. Just make sure the crank mark stays at TDC through the tensioning and correct if it moves before tightening cam and IP.

For first timers the DG tools are superior. Not so necessary once you're familiar with the job. It will not resemble any belt/chain r+r on a gas engine.

There are definitely crappy timing belt tools out there. The metalman tools are excellent. Renting will save you money.

$600 sounds high for a DIY. Maybe 350 to 400. Harbor frieght tools are fine. A drillbit is easy lockout and use sawsall blades with a magnet.
Stay away from anything ebay or anything to do with hans. I dont remember the thread but it's about that scamming pos and all his thousands of rebrand sites. He sells counterfeit crap and I mean crap.

Sawsall blades with a magnet?
What tool does that replace?
I tried making the special socket for removing the injection pump top
from a 6-point socket with 3 sides cut.
Maybe I didn't use a good enough socket,..
it just opened up when I tried to use it.

In Iowa, we all read until the cows come home, ha.
It's what we do.

You dont need to do any opening of the IP for the belt job but I have tried a few brands of proper sockets for that triangle bolt and i have messed up every single one of those special sockets. I dont remeber off hand what size it is but i want to say a 8mm or 5mm? 12 sided socket you can just smack in there with a hammer and it works really well. I've done it quite a bit. Helps if the socket is a cheepo brand. I would not try it with a quality socket.

Sawsall blades and a magnet does the cam lockout tool. You just need to keep it indexed to the heads flat surface. On the alh engines you have to modify them as it is recessed (an attempt by VW to stop us from not buying dealership services.)

I made a sprocket holder tool with some scrap and a few bolts.
The 2 tools I'm glad I got was the belt tensioner set tool and VAGCOM cable. I tried making my own and useing a hacked version of some pirated ebay bs. Both ended up being horible.

You can make a makeshift tensioner setting tool with a piece of flat metal and two roofing nails. Drill two holes in the metal the right distance apart, grind or cut the point off the nails and insert them into the two drilled holes. Then weld/epoxy/tape the back end so they can't come out.

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If you decide to make your own stuff, the IP index pin is 6mm or .236". About 15/64".

Thanks for all the good info guys! Much appreciated.

Dhawk12 said:

You can make a makeshift tensioner setting tool with a piece of flat metal and two roofing nails. Drill two holes in the metal the right distance apart, grind or cut the point off the nails and insert them into the two drilled holes. Then weld/epoxy/tape the back end so they can't come out.

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Click to expand...

or just a 24" 2x4 and some big ground spike nails. $2 at Home depot

OHH i meant sprocket holder lol

this was the 1 tool that i love as its so superior in every way. i have made 3 of these tools and they all were horrible but they did do the job (about as good as using mayo for lube) yea it works but eww. i mean YUM!

I bought a kit from metalnerd a long time ago and I was super happy with it. I used a dieselgeek 100k mike kit. I’m about to tackle this job within a couple months and the one thing I would totally invest on is a motor support bracket. I didn’t particularly care for supporting my engine from underneath with a jack and a 2x4 on the aluminum oil pan. It holds but it made me nervous. Just bought the long reach cam lock but I think I will be removing my balance cover to check lobes. But if you’re not going for that, then the long reach lock is a must.
Since you’re gonna lose your coolant, take the opportunity to change your thermostat. Since the holder will break, get another one too. That’s my 2 cents into this post. Sounds like you know what you’re getting into so keep us posted! [emoji1422]


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A tip for coolant loss. Get a 2 or 3 gallon shopvac and use it only for this in wet mode. Soon as you start to drain the radiator suck it all up as it's coming out. After doing this I have no spills at all also makes it easy to pull hoses and parts with no spills and you can reuse it after filtering though a cloth if the fluid is recently new.