http://polarislabs1.com/metals.htm04PDWagon said:Also, what metals are found where in the motor?
What material would be present in the UOA for a worn cam, worn lifters, worn turbo bearing, etc.
if anything, IMHO you're not driving hard enough. IMHO it's good for your high-performance turbocharged engine, and the spirit of the driver, to periodically enjoy pedal-to-floor accelorating in 2nd and 3rd. shift just as the needle crosses 4k RPM. remember to stay safe and observe all posted speed limits.04PDWagon said:I know I've been driving the car a little harder around town lately but 85% of my driving is still highway at 65MPH.
IME - good B30 will have no negative effects on the oil. i run B33 almost exclusively. my PD has been fueled with virtually all BioDiesel (B5 to B100) since new.What kind of effect would running B30 have on the oil? What should I look for in the UOA that would show any effect from BIO?
in general & IMHO i don't think oil bypass filtration is necessary to enjoy outstanding TDI performance for 400k+. i don't have a bypass filtration system installed and don't plan to.I'm also considering a Diesel Geek By-pass filter kit. What are your thoughts on that?
I did use LiquiMolly friction reducer. Maybe I did not put enough ..TornadoRed said:I've had several UOA from Mobil Delvac 5w40, and the moly is always 0 or 1 ppm. 193 ppm in Dmitri's sample doesn't belong unless it was added -- or unless there was a lot of topping-up oil that wasn't Delvac.
Whatever the source for the sodium, it's not very much.... only typically there's less than 5 ppm.Dimitri16V said:I did use LiquiMolly friction reducer. Maybe I did not put enough ..
Lab said sodium could be from additive but I think it is contamination, collecting the sample was not exactly neat.
All your questions can be answered here:highender said:I mean to ask , in general, why do they test the ones that they do, and what do the values indicate ??
thanks for that link. UOA has been a hot topic at work recently and we have the Deere propaganda, but I't nice to see some other information. When I'm sober, I'll read this stuff and see what we can learn.TornadoRed said:All your questions can be answered here:
http://www.oaitesting.com/g2047.pdf
I will use it again with Elf Solaris and re-test. the way this car is used it won't take long.TornadoRed said:Whatever the source for the sodium, it's not very much.... only typically there's less than 5 ppm.
Looks like if I want to know whether Lubro-Moly MoS2 is any good when blended with Delvac, I'll have to test it myself. Your test was inconclusive.
Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!Dimitri16V said:I will use it (LiquiMolly friction reducer) again with Elf Solaris and re-test. the way this car is used it won't take long.
i'm almost afraid to ask - but how did you collect the sample you sent to the lab?collecting the sample was not exactly neat
IMHO disregard these results as there's a very high likelyhood that they are inaccurate/unrepresentative.highender said:I collected the oil using a not so good method....meaning I did clean the Pela container and let some oil run thru....and then collected the oil from mid level ( not bottom ) of the oil dipstick , after running the already warm engine again. The oil collected was about 1 qt...which I mixed up before pouring into sample container...Not the best method, I agree (it was late at night).
2.0L 134hp TDI invariably produce more wear metals than 1.9L 100hp TDIs. so, since the oil was in for the 10k from 30-40k ODO (young engine) this is IMHO a good UOA. if it were my TDI - since your oil change procedure was very thorough (drain & extract) i would not worry about sampling again at 45k, i'd sample and change at 50k and use that UOA to begin to determine if future OCIs can safely go beyond 10k. remember to only compare your UOAs with your own and those from other 2.0L 134hp TDIs.rjr311 said:2004 PD PAssat wagon...
sucked it out from filter housing with turkey baster...SUNRG said:Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
IMHO this is an exceedingly bad idea that will almost certainly result in downgrading the performance of the $11/liter ELF Solaris LLX.
i'm almost afraid to ask - but how did you collect the sample you sent to the lab?
Nothing in the UOA you posted suggested that you need to switch to a shorter oil change interval. If you do, you'll be draining perfectly good oil. Do you have another vehicle that you can pour it into?highender said:TornadoRed & SUNRG ....> Thanks for your input.
I think I will change oil in 1000 miles...and then get another sample when changing....and then , go from there.
well, I will do it the right way. I can pick up some bottles from CAT in advance and if I skip the TBN ( the oil test guy says he doesn't put much weight behind the results ) it is only $10.wjdell said:12 Pb - Ni 4 - Cu 11 ---- seems high even for a 2.0. Check at 45k good idea. If you show less than half of these numbers then it may indicate your 2.0 OCI needed to be shorter for the break in.
when I bought the oil, ELF was the only 507 available ..wjdell said:rjr311 - you may also want to consider Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 507 oil after three LLX . If you are using Elf then price is not a issue. Mobil has proved time and time again then can build a good oil. The 507 is made in Antwerp Belgum and they make some very good products. Its just a suggestion that maybe a BORON MOLY fortified 507 make work better for you in your 2.0. Your soot is good at .2 so I do not see it as the factor.
definitely discard the UOA resultsDimitri16V said:sucked it out from filter housing with turkey baster...
IMHO it did downgrade the M1. your Fe wear rate using this oil is higher - much higher than GMARK's.[The additive did not affect M-1 why you think it will "downgrade" the 507.00 oil.
maybe during the wear-in process, but after that Fe wear in PDs should be similar to ALH. At least this is what I've seen.I don't care about the Fe number. PD engines will produce more Fe than ALH, there is more wear happening uptop than we would desire. It is the nature of the engine.
sounds good. but too many variables to tell if this was caused by the M1, the additive or something else. add and remove one variable at a time. repeat. then you begin to establish cause and effect.FYI, I had not had the lifter tick with Mobil-1/MOS2 combo for 10K miles. It happened with Motul specific though.
I don't know if that's such a bad way to draw a sample, if the turkey baster was clean. Oil drawn from the filter housing should be identical to oil drained from the sump.Dimitri16V said:sucked it out from filter housing with turkey baster...
SUNRG said:definitely discard the UOA results
i just wanted to note that when catching oil during the drain:rjr311 said:Sample was collected by draining from plug, rinsing bottle few times, filling bottle, spilling bottle partially, allowing more from bottom of oil pan to drip into bottle to fill ( not needed as only 2 oz required but I wanted to have enough if I needed 2nd oil opinion). Not sure if this last step allowed extra metals to drain late or ... Any thoughts ?
TR - all I'm going to say is that there's no way i'm endorsing the "turkey baster from the oil filter housing" sampling method .TornadoRed said:I don't know if that's such a bad way to draw a sample, if the turkey baster was clean. Oil drawn from the filter housing should be identical to oil drained from the sump.
I'd wager that if you drew three samples, one from the drain plug, one sucked through the dipstick tube, and one sucked up from the filter housing, they would all be very close.
Take another look at Dimitri's results... not that bad.SUNRG said:TR - all I'm going to say is that there's no way i'm endorsing the "turkey baster from the oil filter housing" sampling method .
Dimitri's UOA showed a slightly high level of sodium, a fairly common chemical found in kitchens.dhdenney said:What would poultry show up under on a UOA?
I wasn't really looking for an answer as I was trying to be Mr. Funnyman but good point nonetheless. Seems to explain the sodium. The salt from the turkey baster!TornadoRed said:Dimitri's UOA showed a slightly high level of sodium, a fairly common chemical found in kitchens.