My new CCV system...Version 3.0

tadc

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Apr 13, 2001
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Stumptown
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Golf GLS TDI, '01, Black
The idea is to condense oil vapor out of the CCV system before it makes it into the intake, based on the theory that the intake clogging happens due to hot, sooty EGR gasses and cool, oily CCV gasses combining and forming 'sludge'.

So theoretically, it helps prevent intake clogging. There is no performance benefit, and I think it's not 100% proven that this will prevent intake clogging. I've recently heard a competing theory that it's really bad MAF performance that results in intake clogging...

Last, I dunno if PDs suffer from this issue anyway.
 

edgardotcom

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McAllen, Texas 78501
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Purchased on (10/16/10) 2000 Red Jetta Std. 135K
Can I just buy like a K&N Crankcase Vent Filter(62-1517 or something similar) and attach it to the engine and the L shape hose router back to the intake? would it give me a code?
 

coalminer16

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Golf 2004
Yes PD's suffer but not as bad. I don't know how a MAF would make the oil go from the engine to the intake more. Yes some vent to atmosphere and just put a plug into the intake so it is like a gasser vent. Some have them ice up in the winter so you have to watch how you do it or oil starts coming out the dipstick.
 

cheezy

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Madison
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99 NB, 96 B4V
I used a Grainger line strainer and a couple of 3/4" right angle hose barbs. The part # in Grainger is 2P133.
2P133 no longer available from Grainger.



2114130 is the part # at Tractor Supply Co. for the 1" poly strainer.
 
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KLXD

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Lompoc, CA
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'98, '2 Jettas
To me cyclone implies high flow which is absent in the TDI CCV. It isn't a flow through system like most gas PVC systems.

Not that they flow that much air either.
 

josh8loop

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2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
To me cyclone implies high flow which is absent in the TDI CCV. It isn't a flow through system like most gas PVC systems.

Not that they flow that much air either.




You are correct, the cyclone separator needs a minimum amount of flow to work properly. The internal dimensions are set so that they will be functional at different flow rates. Looks like these are used on the defender 200 and 300 TDI. The 200 TDI at least is 2.5L. It has a mechanical vacuum pump that is vented to the crancase so that is about the same as ours. Not sure if the reduced flow from our 1.9L will still allow proper functionality. My gut says it will probably do just fine, and most likely better than stock setup. I might see if I can source one to play with.
 
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josh8loop

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2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
The ProVent CCV system outside looks similar in design to the 200 TDI Cyclone mentioned above. Wonder if it uses Cyclone separation action too?
 
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josh8loop

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2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
I'm planning to run to the local junkyard tomorrow to scour the yard for a BMW that might have a cyclone oil separator. I made some notes as far as sizes on my CCV pieces and oil dipstick that I will have to tap into so that I can gather most of the parts needed when I'm there. I also made some notes on engine sizing vs vehicle style(ie 535i etc) so I will know what the displacement of the engine is. I'm looking for a cyclone separator from the lowest displacement engine I can find. With any luck I will be able to find some parts, and more importantly get something functional put together that will really help me. :D
 

josh8loop

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Went to the local junkyard on Saturday, and acquired some various pieces for about $10.00 I didn't find a BMW Cyclonic air/oil separator like I wanted, but found enough stuff to create my own. I assembled it on Saturday, and installed it on Sunday. I have about 400 miles on it so far, and it seems to work very well. The first 80 miles(in town) or so I didn't notice anything that had started to give evidence that it was collecting. After tonights journey to pick up my father in law at the Orlando airport I had a good chance to give it a work out. Looks like I am collecting liquid oil on the Stainless Steel funnel that helps to form the cyclone in the unit. The bottom of the cyclonic unit(Drain) is "T" ed through a 3/8" rubber hose into the oil dipstick to return any collected oil to the sump. Now that I know it shows the potential to operate, I will have to install a measured collection system so I can quantify it's effectiveness.
 
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steffen707

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Central Wisconsin
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01 Jetta GLS TDI
I read in post 1 that wingnut is now using Kayakkermit's setup, and i found the PDF, but it doesn't list what parts were used. I've tried searching, but can't find them, can anybody point me in the right direction for the list of parts?
 

yatzee

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Montreal, Qc
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see sig
it's an agricultural Strainer. Without your location listed in your profile, we can't tell you when to find 1.
 

steffen707

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aymen_a22

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Seat Leon SE TDi 110hp (ASV Code)
I am not sure if this is a stupid idea but can you not just block the hole where the CCV goes into the Turbo Intake Pipe and then put an CCV Filter similar to this:

http://www.mjpshop.co.uk/image/cache/data/products/VentRubBChrTop-500x500.jpg

on the valve/rocker/cam cover and vent to the atmosphere? The pressure would then be able to escape causing no blow-by or runaway problems.

I may have missed a crucial part of why the CCV was there to start with though.
 

steffen707

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Central Wisconsin
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01 Jetta GLS TDI
I may be wrong but since the engine is a closed system, all the air inside it was metered past the MAF, if you let the crankcase vent to atmosphere you would be using less air and more fuel for your mixture. By how much, i have no idea and maybe its negligable.

The bigger problem is that, if all this oil is use to going through the intake system, if you just vent it to atmostphere with that filter, itll probably leave an oily mess all over the engine bay. Probably better to use a catch can that's vented to atmosphere to limit this mess.

I've seen turbo DSMs with these types of filters and no mess all over, why is the tdi prone to so much oil coming out the valve cover, when other engines don't?
 

steffen707

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01 Jetta GLS TDI
Has anybody tried one of these compressor air line air-oil/water filters like this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-PA2121-Standard-Filters/dp/B0000CBINA

Seems like its job is to pull oil and water out of air and accumulate it at the bottom, has a nice 1/4 turn nob at the bottom to drain it as well. I'm sure you could just leave it open all the time and drain to a larger catch can as well.

thoughts?
 

deejaaa

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FOR SALE, 2002 Jetta GLS, 5 speed
Has anybody tried one of these compressor air line air-oil/water filters like this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-PA2121-Standard-Filters/dp/B0000CBINA

Seems like its job is to pull oil and water out of air and accumulate it at the bottom, has a nice 1/4 turn nob at the bottom to drain it as well. I'm sure you could just leave it open all the time and drain to a larger catch can as well.

thoughts?
that was mentioned way back in post 76:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1460903&postcount=76
i used something like this in the diesel rabbit. it worked but think the in/out ports were too small causing back-pressure, i would use 1/2" or bigger. i think this one would work, remove the main filter element for pressure reasons. stuff with fine stainless mesh/wool. don't use steel, will rust.
 

steffen707

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Central Wisconsin
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01 Jetta GLS TDI
My bad.....

Fleet Farm has a 1/2" NPT one. I might give that a shot.

Anybody know how much pressure the CCV system sees? I was thinking of putting a pressure release valve near the valve CCV puck in case the filter does get frozen up in winter. I know another member suggested not putting a hose clamp on the CCV puck, but from what some have said, its very hard to get the 3/4 reinforced clear tube onto the CCV to begin with. So its got a lot of force already keeping it on.
 

deejaaa

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My bad.....

Fleet Farm has a 1/2" NPT one. I might give that a shot.

Anybody know how much pressure the CCV system sees? I was thinking of putting a pressure release valve near the valve CCV puck in case the filter does get frozen up in winter. I know another member suggested not putting a hose clamp on the CCV puck, but from what some have said, its very hard to get the 3/4 reinforced clear tube onto the CCV to begin with. So its got a lot of force already keeping it on.
that was mentioned in post #106 but no answers:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2070245&highlight=pressure#post2070245
 

coalminer16

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Central Wisconsin
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Golf 2004
I see the issue with the air compressor one being it is designed for a high pressure system where the vent on our cars is low pressure. A 1 PSI drop on the filter wouldn't matter on the air compressor but on our car that could be the difference of blowing a seal out.

Also it isn't specific to TDI's. The older IDI VW's had it worse where they commonly ran away on them. They came up with a cover for them and the newer IDI's had them stock (my 1.9 aaz TD engine was stock, 1.6 NA wasn't but added). Other engines have this issue as well but I don't think as bad.

As for the filter at the end of the elephant hose-you have to watch freezing. Actually all filters you have to watch freezing if too small or wrong location. The vent goes into the intake after the MAF so I don't see that as much of an issue there. The oily mess on the driveway is common for those that vent straight out so venting to an open bottle would be cleaner. A lot of older diesel (off road) vented straight out. My 1987 JD 332 diesel does and a lot of the mining equipment did.
 

steffen707

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Central Wisconsin
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01 Jetta GLS TDI
Is there any kind of filter inside the CVV puck?

I just want to make sure if I do vent to atmosphere that I don't allow something to enter the engine unfiltered.
 

steffen707

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Central Wisconsin
TDI
01 Jetta GLS TDI
And lastly, have people tried routing their hoses along side the coolant hose so that once the car is up to temp and running, any water vapor that comes out of the hose is heated above freezing, so then it can't freeze in the hose?

I suppose if you get enough liquid in the catch can it can freeze there and block flow if you park the car in sub freezing climate. (my garage is heated to 50 degrees in winter).
 

steffen707

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01 Jetta GLS TDI
The ALH engines already have a scrubber built into the valve cover. It can build up with goo to the point of being solid and then it throws more mist into the intake. It is servicable but poorly documented.

I was going through a quart in 1500 miles with most of it ending up in the IC. Since overhauling the engine in 2007 and cleaning this scrubber, oil consumption is nil. I also added extra packing as the pads didn't fill the void space. Used stainless steel scrub pad, compressed to fit.
Does anybody have documentation about how to service the CCV puck?
 

coalminer16

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Central Wisconsin
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Golf 2004
From my readings (I don't have the car with the puck) once you "service" it then you destroy the OEM peices that are in there. But as a side note they are likely already destroyed. Look into the "old navy" CCV for your car. While he hasn't made any for a while it give you the idea of whats in there. And as far as the warming of the hose-the hose isn't the part that is freezing it is the filter in the hose. And that includes the closed loop system like mine (that still goes into the intake). You don't need a small micron filter in there. You just need something to pull out the oil/water mist that is going through it but is tow big of holes to freeze. Freezing will likely cause a seal to blow out. And venting straight out and worrying about things going up into the engine-how many have you seen with a negative pressure on there? All the ones I have see have some pressure venting outwards due to the exhaust gases going past the piston rings since they aren't 100% sealed. Cooling the engine down when turned off some backdraft will happen but the chance of crap being on there is slim unless you have a large hose (like 2 inches in diameter). I do have mine right behind the radiator so there is a little heat there but it was more for the open location since I have a frost heater and oil bypass kit and cat filter I am starting to run out of room and I wanted it to be the lowest point on the hoses so it would back-drain through. Some oil still gets by but not as much. And it doesn't matter your garage temp if you are driving outside at -20 for the freezing part. People have intercoolers freezing and they have warmer charged air going through them so how a garage would save you I don't know. And you are going to park in a parking lot somewhere where it isn't heated. The screen in my "filter" is sized like a screen door screen only it is stainless steel.
 

steffen707

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01 Jetta GLS TDI
Ahh, see I didn't think it was the filter screen that was freezing up.

I thought it was the accumulation of liquid in the reservoir that's freezing up causing problems. Thus the heated garage would thaw the mixture so you could drain it if it was accumulating to a high level.
 

deejaaa

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Baytown, Texas
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FOR SALE, 2002 Jetta GLS, 5 speed
no matter what part is freezing, the thing is, when you are parked and the ambient is freezing, that's where the concern should be. when out at night/day in the parking lot, either while shopping, school, games, when there is no protection.
 
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