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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old July 28th, 2014, 19:51   #1
Walt@EverythingEuro
 
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Default B5 Passat TDI manual transmission swap

Picked up an 04 model about 2 weeks ago with 135K with a bum auto. Luckily enough, scored a running/driving V6/5spd car a couple days later on the cheap - and the rest is history.

Did a little bit of research before jumping in, but I'm more a hands on kind of guy. Didn't really see any description of the wiring involved (I didn't search that hard, I'll be honest), so I figured I'd share in an effort to give back a bit.

Backstory - I've wired lots of stuff, I'm a wiring guy. Manual swaps in almost everything, FSI engines into mk1's - you name it, I can wire it. With that said, this was probably the easiest wiring modification I've ever had to make.

Reverse lights. The reverse light switch on the trans utilizes a 5 pin connector - but only 2 wires are used. Take the 10 pin connector that used to plug into the multi-function switch on your automatic trans (the D connector, not the round cannon-plug). Snip the wires in pins 7 & 8 and run those to your reverse light switch connector. It doesn't matter which one goes to which, either way works. That's it. You now have reverse lights working.

Brake lights. Some swaps won't need this at all. My donor car was an 01.5, which utilized the older style brake light switch. This is also super simple, all the wires match up color for color except one. (The TDI car used a Red/white wire for ignition power, the older car used a black/blue wire). Simple regardless, snip away and reconnect.

Clutch switches. You'll have 2 switches, both using 2 pin connectors. The upper one is for the starting circuit. Simple. Run one wire to a good ground (I used a ring terminal attached to one of the steering column mount bolts). The other wire will go to the starter interlock relay (2nd row up, far right, basic 53 relay). The bottom wire (85), I believe it was blue/black, snip that and run it to your upper clutch switch. This will ground the relay when you depress the clutch and allow the starter to function. It used to get ground from the multi-function switch on the auto trans when it was in park or neutral.

Finally, the lower clutch switch. This is going to keep your revs from hanging, and allow cruise control function. 1 wire (again, it doesn't matter which) will simply tap off of pin#3 on the brake light switch. It's merely ignition power. You can get this from anywhere you want really, but the OEM location was a splice in that same harness, and it just happens to be the easiest place IMHO. The other wire will run to the ECM to pin#43 on the (larger) 94 pin connector.

You'll need an ECM repair wire for this obviously, I keep them in stock so I don't have a part number handy. I also highly recommend quality wiring components (I use heat shrinkable crimp connectors exclusively, properly crimped and heatshrunk - delcity has a great selection).

That's it! Sorry if this has been covered before, just wanted to throw it out there while it was fresh in my mind.

Other random thoughts. I HIGHLY recommend this swap. Even if you budget it out. I used the Valeo 1.8T clutch kit/flywheel from ECS. V6 parts car for virtually everything else. It drives incredible. With the V6 trans, I'm running 45 in 4th gear @ 2k rpm. I'm running 72 on the highway in 5th @ 2800rpm. Being a Malone dealer, I obviously used them for the tune, and it's flawless. Cruise and everything else works as it should. The 1.8T pilot bearing works perfectly, and DOES NOT COME WITH THE CLUTCH KIT! Luckily, I had one in stock so didn't lose any downtime. As carefully as I planned this out, that was the one bit I overlooked.

As of now, I notice no vibration or anything from the driveline. It drives like OEM. I'm probably going to go ahead and delete the BSM before I sell her just because of the mileage, and we'll see how she acts then, but I expect to be pleased.

And, that's all I got! I hope this helps someone at some point down the line. If you're pondering this swap, and somewhat local, I'll gladly toss ya the keys anytime. If you have any questions, I'll be happy to answer as best I can.
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Old July 30th, 2014, 04:16   #2
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Thanks for the write up. So the rpm hang up between shifts is because I don't have a clutch switch installed yet? Some said it was because of the ECU is tunned for automatic transmission and the manual ECU flash will fix the hang up.
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Old July 30th, 2014, 04:46   #3
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Man, good thing I didn't keep that V6 Audi I had for the trans, that gearing is awful. It probably feels pretty peppy, though.

The automatics (and proper diesel manuals) turn 2500 at 80 in 5th. But the hard part is already done, you can always swap the gearbox later on if you like, and those are easy to R&R.
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Old July 30th, 2014, 06:45   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imo000 View Post
Thanks for the write up. So the rpm hang up between shifts is because I don't have a clutch switch installed yet? Some said it was because of the ECU is tunned for automatic transmission and the manual ECU flash will fix the hang up.
Honestly, I doubt it. I never drove this car with the automatic tune still in place, but I can only imagine it would rev hang like crazy. I've done several other gasser swaps like this, and they always rev hung, all the way back to ABA's even. What my clutch switch fixed was a very minor thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
Man, good thing I didn't keep that V6 Audi I had for the trans, that gearing is awful. It probably feels pretty peppy, though.
The automatics (and proper diesel manuals) turn 2500 at 80 in 5th. But the hard part is already done, you can always swap the gearbox later on if you like, and those are easy to R&R.
Indeed, and I'm already on the hunt.
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Old July 31st, 2014, 06:08   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imo000 View Post
Thanks for the write up. So the rpm hang up between shifts is because I don't have a clutch switch installed yet? Some said it was because of the ECU is tunned for automatic transmission and the manual ECU flash will fix the hang up.
You are correct that it is the tune causing the rpm hang up and a reflash will fix it. It is kind of a pain to drive it with the auto tune, but if you shift slowly it's not bad. Once you get the manual tune it is a lot of fun. What really gets me is how fast my car accelerates at highway speeds.
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Old August 5th, 2014, 07:34   #6
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Awesome information! Even better timing. I just finished bolting up the subframe and putting the engine compartment back together last night.

Not really a wiring question, but an electrical one none the less: it's only the ECU and ABS modules that have to be re-coded with VCDS, correct?
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Old August 5th, 2014, 19:04   #7
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ECU reprogrammed.
Gateway coded
ABS coded.
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Old August 6th, 2014, 05:44   #8
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Can someone please post the procedure for the Gateway and ABS coding? I know this is already out there but would be good to have it here too.
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Old August 6th, 2014, 11:08   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imo000 View Post
Can someone please post the procedure for the Gateway and ABS coding? I know this is already out there but would be good to have it here too.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...0&postcount=11

Quote:
Can/Gateway: Set coding to 006. Same as before but it will force the gateway to relearn installed modules.

ABS - Recode:
Login to enable coding 09555
Recode to 04255
NOW perform steering angle sensor calibration. (Failure to compelete this will cause the coding not to complete.) Login to enable Basic Settings (40168)
Perform G85 calibration in Basic Settings group 001
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Old August 6th, 2014, 16:06   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt@EverythingEuro View Post
Picked up an 04 model about 2 weeks ago with 135K with a bum auto. Luckily enough, scored a running/driving V6/5spd car a couple days later on the cheap - and the rest is history.
Did a little bit of research before jumping in, but I'm more a hands on kind of guy. Didn't really see any description of the wiring involved (I didn't search that hard, I'll be honest), so I figured I'd share in an effort to give back a bit.
Backstory - I've wired lots of stuff, I'm a wiring guy. Manual swaps in almost everything, FSI engines into mk1's - you name it, I can wire it. With that said, this was probably the easiest wiring modification I've ever had to make.
Reverse lights. The reverse light switch on the trans utilizes a 5 pin connector - but only 2 wires are used. Take the 10 pin connector that used to plug into the multi-function switch on your automatic trans (the D connector, not the round cannon-plug). Snip the wires in pins 7 & 8 and run those to your reverse light switch connector. It doesn't matter which one goes to which, either way works. That's it. You now have reverse lights working.
Brake lights. Some swaps won't need this at all. My donor car was an 01.5, which utilized the older style brake light switch. This is also super simple, all the wires match up color for color except one. (The TDI car used a Red/white wire for ignition power, the older car used a black/blue wire). Simple regardless, snip
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Old August 14th, 2014, 18:01   #11
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Made an access hole to remove that bottom bolt holding the servo unit in place. Just too tight in there and figured this would be easier. 1-1/4 hole saw. Just be careful if you are doing this as you have a wire almost directly behind just push it down out of the way.
Will need a rubber grommet to plug but should be available.

Now have access to install hard clutch line with servo removed. You can see the hole in bottom of bullhead where rubber grommet on line goes through to gearbox below.
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Old August 15th, 2014, 07:56   #12
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^x2. I cut an access hole there too. Mostly because the fluid reservoir bolt was stripped. In fact, I left all the brake lines and fluid reservoir on and just moved the brake booster enough to fish the clutch line up through that bulkhead. Not that big of deal, but it does save me from having to bleed the brakes. Regardless, any future brake service that requires removal of the booster just got a whole bunch easier.
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Old August 15th, 2014, 15:22   #13
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Quick question,

What brand of gear oil did you use, assuming you refilled it.
Frans sent mine from Holland so its empty. Made some good progress today and plan on
Installing tomorrow.

This has been discussed http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/u...4+GL-5+ALL.pdf

Some discussion on synthetic and brass bushings and syncros. Didn't overly engrossed in reading so give me a decent name and I'm good to go.
DUK box probably from an 01 or so 1.9
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Old August 16th, 2014, 19:15   #14
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Ok, picked up some redline today (4g) and have a lot of naysayers as to hard shifting in cold weather.
I know this has been discussed until the cows are well asleep and then some....
But and its a BIG Kadeshian BUTT, why the hating .



It meets the specs of synthetic. I currently have it in the box and ready to install tomorrow.
Give me a reason why not.
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Last edited by Chrismak; August 16th, 2014 at 19:24.
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Old August 18th, 2014, 04:52   #15
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I only ever use OEM stuff, it is so good I've never understood why anyone would want to mess around with anything but.

However, the longitudinal VAG gearboxes require a hypoid friendly lube, unlike the transverse gearboxes. That's why there is a different part number. G-052-911-A2 for the 012s.
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