coolant thats not g12. what!!

OK, I realize that all TDI's should use the vw specific coolant(is it g12) but what do i do if there is no vw dealer near me and i need coolant? There are several auto parts stores in my town and of all the 10 different brands and colors and certifications that i could purchase none of the containers labels will say approved for volkswagon or offer a g12 rating. What gives?
If a heavy duty extended life diesel coolant that is approved for cummins, duramax, navistar, volvo, toyota, mercedes, and all the others, why would it not be good for our TDI's?
Is the block or head made out of some super finicky metal that self destructs or something? Is it the radiator? seals or bearings in the pump? Or is this a way to keep vw customers coming back into the dealer for all services.

i have heard my closest dealer (2.5hrs away) say the coolant will curdle or cheese up when mixed?

What does one do in an emergency when he gets a rock in his rad in the middle of nowhere and needs to put rad seal in and top up to keep driving and not be stranded on the side of the road in -40 degree weather?

If its just because of the additives not getting along with each other and kurdling, than could a guy drain out all he has and replace with regular, buy everywhere, extended life diesel coolant and not worry about blowing up a water pump or looking at more repairs in the future?

I realize there are a lot of questions for you guys, anyone want to offer their 2 cents? It feels kind of silly myself, to be so wasteful and throw coolant down the drain that i have only used for 2 days. On the other hand, $230 for a coolant flush, and one wasted day for travel, time and elbow grease seems better than a cavitation or more expensive repair problem

Straight distilled water is a quick fix. I don't know of any other g12 coolants besides the VW specific one which costs an arm and a leg over here in victoria BC. Ive found that napa and LORDCO auto parts generally carries it or can get it easily enough.

If you're in a absolute bind you can use Dex-Cool without fear of chemistry clash. Topping off with distilled water just to get you home is another option provided it won't drop your freeze point to a dangerous level.

Mailorder the VW coolant if you're doing a refill and get enough to have on-hand for topping of.

I've been running the Peak One stuff from Canadian Tire for 4 years and 800 hours in mine with zero issues so far.

This may be contrary to the opinion of normal TDIers but if I lived far from a big city, I would use a quality coolant that you can easily obtain anywhere.. in your town, in the big city or in the middle of nowhere.

I would, however, flush what you currently have in the system.

pure_octane said:

i have heard my closest dealer (2.5hrs away) say the coolant will curdle or cheese up when mixed?

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I have heard this as well, from respectable mechanics, so I believe it to be true.

What does one do in an emergency when he gets a rock in his rad in the middle of nowhere and needs to put rad seal in and top up to keep driving and not be stranded on the side of the road in -40 degree weather?

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You do what you must, but that does not mean it stays that way long term. I would add water first, then drain and refill at the earliest time.

If its just because of the additives not getting along with each other and kurdling, than could a guy drain out all he has and replace with regular, buy everywhere, extended life diesel coolant and not worry about blowing up a water pump or looking at more repairs in the future?

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Yes, it can be done. My brother is running generic green coolant in his B4 and it's been going strong with no issues. He just turned 290,000 miles a few days ago. I keep telling him he has no issues now, but then his car has such low miles on it...

The older green coolant is alkaline. The new G12 and Dexcool are OAT based (organic acid technology). Mix the acid and alkaline and you'll get a salt. The sludge and what not forms because the silicates in G12 (yes, G12 has some silicates too) and the old green stuff precipitate out when you mix these two coolant types.

Just do what I have done without penalty for ages: use Dexcool. I started off mixing them when I did my first timing belt change 9 years ago and haven't looked back. You'll have no problems using it, contrary to what some uninformed anal-retentive nay-sayers would have you believe.

I run the Amsoil PG based coolant in German & Japanese engines. I've never had any issues with it, even in the 2006 Subaru that calls for including a SCA (supplemental coolant additive), to control their weeping head gaskets.

I believe the G-12 is phosphate and amine free. So I'd look for a comparative product that has those chemical characteristics....

TS

My local napa carries Pentosin G12 and G11 last time I checked.

Dex-cool is a bad idea. Water is the best if you're in a bind. If you mix, you'll have to drop it all and replace with fresh stuff.

Some will say thats a lie, but I've seen dex-cool and other coolants mixed and it never ends pretty.

I pressume you guys are a bit limited over there, we have other manufactures making vag approved coolant and as such it's a lot easier to obtain now. I do however remember something about mixing different colours i.e. red and green's a no no, blue and green's fine, red and blue's a no no etc. I don't know the chemistry of them though.

I keep some on hand. I also have distilled water in stock. Same with filters, oil, etc.

If you think it is hard to find locally, why don't you already have some? You will use it at TB replacement time anyway, so it just makes sense to shop around for best price before you get in a bind.

IDPARTS and BORAPARTS are two vendors that come quickly to mind, but there are others...

Bill

Zerex G-05 is a good substitute for VW's G12.

Powder Hound said:

The older green coolant is alkaline. The new G12 and Dexcool are OAT based (organic acid technology). Mix the acid and alkaline and you'll get a salt. The sludge and what not forms because the silicates in G12 (yes, G12 has some silicates too) and the old green stuff precipitate out when you mix these two coolant types.

Just do what I have done without penalty for ages: use Dexcool. I started off mixing them when I did my first timing belt change 9 years ago and haven't looked back. You'll have no problems using it, contrary to what some uninformed anal-retentive nay-sayers would have you believe.

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Yes, DexCool works fine. Been in mine for years when I did the engine replacement before I knew any different. While I didn't mix G12 and Dex, (I started out with flushed system and dry engine) they are very similar chemically. G12 is a great coolant, but for those of us up in the middle of nowhere, its not available everywhere and I don't intend to just keep a bunch on hand for an emergency or a thermostat change. I'm sure there will be a bunch of doomsayers abhorring anything but the gospel use of G12, but its my choice and so far its been perfectly fine. I'm going to replace an original 'stat this weekend and if there is anything that looks like it shouldn't, then I'll perhaps know different. Otherwise, I'll continue to run the DexCool.
Only time I have ever seen any problems w/DexCool is in systems that had leaks or mixed coolant types.
I would NOT mix either G12 or DexCool with any other type coolants, "universal" or not. Sometimes when you read the label, they are not so "universal".
If G12 is available, or its not an emergency, use it. Its good stuff.

GM has had very mixed results with Dexcool. The Zerox, G0-5 is an OAT coolant, ie it's the same general type of coolant as the VW stuff. The PG coolant I run is a HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) product - its basically a commercial quality product that can be used for 750k miles/7 yrs in over the road truck engines, or 250k miles/7 years in gas/diesel cars & pickup trucks.

If you are making a permanent change, I think it's important to thoroughly flush out the old coolant. I use the Prestone Superflush, followed by two rinses of tap water. You don't want to used distilled water unless it's mixed with coolant.

TS