Intake Flap Motor aka Anti-shutter Valve aka PITA

Ok, so I'll start at the begining.

Bought this car at 52k. After a few days of driving around I got an engine light. I had just gotten my vag-com cable so I took a look. P2112 Intake Flap Motor malfunction blah blah blah. Ok, no big deal, not critical but it throws a light. Long story short when I took it to get inspected for registration and tags they told me the gears of the motor are stripped. Wanted 600+ to fix it (Not covered by powertrain because it isn't directly part of the motor..... ok.... sure...) Found one online for 249 and installed it following bently. Went to start it up and it started, low idle, die. No lights, no codes. Pulled everything apart again and turned on the car but did not start, the valve closed right when I turned on the power.... That can't be right... or is it? Anyone replaced or serviced this sucker? Manual is no help, and I haven't found anyone that knows exactly how it functions on the 06 Sedan MKV PD.

BTW I have it unplugged right now and it runs just fine, just still has a light and shut off a little ruff. (As expected) Just wish I could have the car be happy with no codes or lights.

It should only close when the car is turned off I believe. It is used to make sure the engine doesn't keep running when shut down. It cuts off the air to the engine so it can't continue to run anymore. It should also help in the case of a runaway engine. Where did you buy the replacement part?

Impex

I'm starting to think more and more that it is something electrical. The bently manual is no help on what the voltages etc... should be for the motor or the harness.

This flap is also used to restrict the intake to increase EGR; if memory serves, there's an adaptation needed for it. Try a search on both this A5 and the earlier A4 sections...

I had mine replaced at a couple thousand kms. Same symptoms you describe. Dealer replaced the whole intake flap assembly under warranty.

Are you sure it wired correctly

Well there is only one way the connector can go in. The wireing diagram doesn't help much if it is wrong.

@2footbraker I'm at 54K miles and they told me it is out of warrenty. I have replaced the entire unit but that didn't help.

Anyone want to volunteer to meter the wires for me and look at the behavior of the motor when the ingition is on and when it is off. =)

All I show is one connector and seals - maybe its leaking they say do not re use the seals. You may need to test voltage at connector.
You turn ignition on and it closes - the connector cant be plugged in backwards ? can it.

When you turn ignition off it should close for 3 seconds and then open.

Search ebahn

Intake Flap Motor Checking

wjdell said:

All I show is one connector and seals - maybe its leaking they say do not re use the seals. You may need to test voltage at connector.
You turn ignition on and it closes - the connector cant be plugged in backwards ? can it.

When you turn ignition off it should close for 3 seconds and then open.

Click to expand...

New seal came with the new part.

The connector only goes on one way, as I stated before.

Ok, I'm going to bump this in hopes that there is a MKV expert is out there. Please, I'm begging.

We have dealt with a similar occurrence.

I'm not 100% on this, but electrically the EGR valve works in conjunction with the flapper.

We replaced the EGR and that fixed it.

Like I said not 100%, and I would hate for you to purchase an EGR valve and not solve it.

Biochoppers said:

We have dealt with a similar occurrence.

I'm not 100% on this, but electrically the EGR valve works in conjunction with the flapper.

We replaced the EGR and that fixed it.

Like I said not 100%, and I would hate for you to purchase an EGR valve and not solve it.

Click to expand...

Shouldn't you be sleeping by now Scotty? What's the matter, don't I work you hard enough FCOL? Later!

Harvieux said:

Shouldn't you be sleeping by now Scotty? What's the matter, don't I work you hard enough FCOL? Later!

Click to expand...

Your not the first to suggest I may be a masochist

mas·och·ism

/ˈmæs

əˌkɪz

əm, ˈmæz-/Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[mas-uh-kiz-uh

m, maz-]Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation
–noun 1.Psychiatry. the condition in which sexual gratification depends on suffering, physical pain, and humiliation. 2.gratification gained from pain, deprivation, degradation, etc., inflicted or imposed on oneself, either as a result of one's own actions or the actions of others, esp. the tendency to seek this form of gratification. 3.the act of turning one's destructive tendencies inward or upon oneself. 4.the tendency to find pleasure in self-denial, submissiveness, etc.

Ok, I sware I'm going crazy. BlueCTTDI (thanks bud) convinced me to do a function test through the vag-com this evening. It seemed to be working just fine, so I cleared all the codes and it started right up, no CEL, no codes!! I guess something in the computer must have been f'in it up when I first installed it. Thank you all for the input I'm just happy to have no CEL and a fully functioning car.

No I just need to replace that right tail light bulb.

mdfirefighter said:

No I just need to replace that right tail light bulb.

Click to expand...

Euro LED Tail lights. Never replace a bulb again! You know you want them...

My car is showing the same problems. I'm going to replace the flap motor at some point to see if it cures my ills. Tho, for now, she will have to shut off a little rough.

Have you scanned with VCDS yet? It will be clear if the flap motor is the cause.

Define scanned. I used VCDS to read and reset the code. I've reset it twice now, it comes back on after 10 recorded faults from the log information (or how I am reading the log information, it recorded 10 instances of this failure before throwing the MIL).

What should I be looking for in VCDS? A particular block that will show the status of the flap?

Actually that is exactly what I saw as well. There is also a block to test the motor. Interestingly enough I had to use that block after I installed the new one so it would work correctly. Kind of like proving to the ECM that the motor was working. YMMV

kcfoxie said:

Define scanned. I used VCDS to read and reset the code. I've reset it twice now, it comes back on after 10 recorded faults from the log information (or how I am reading the log information, it recorded 10 instances of this failure before throwing the MIL).

What should I be looking for in VCDS? A particular block that will show the status of the flap?

Click to expand...

We'll, Ive got the P2112 after getting the code pulled at AutoZone.

This is my first fix. Where do I get a VAGCOM and what is the exact name of the flapper. Places to buy one? How hard to replace?

Thanks Guys

Easy to replace, one hose and 3 triple square bolts..setup and reset codes.

Now the price on that part..not good..

Mach1 said:

Easy to replace, one hose and 3 triple square bolts..setup and reset codes.

Now the price on that part..not good..

Click to expand...

Thanks,

Found a flapper kit at world impex for 249.00. Will go with the Vag-Com at Ross-Tech unless someone lives near Allentown,PA with a vag-com. I will start another thread on that subject. Any suggestions appreciated.

Tim

I am expecting to work on this flap motor soon. I have recently experienced rather rough shut downs...

Mach1 said:

Easy to replace, one hose and 3 triple square bolts..setup and reset codes.

Now the price on that part..not good..

Click to expand...

Where is this intake flap motor located on the engine? Does anyone have a pic of it?

Ok, have not gotten around to fix it yet. Actually the check engin light went off for a while and I thought, all is good.

Tonight an electrical part on the top- back of the engine started grinding, like gears grinding. It made the grinding noise the whole time I drove it. Stopped the car, popped the hood and it is for sure the part I described above.

It is black with a grey female electrical end on it. This part actually cycled two times making the grinding noise when I shut the ignition off. Is this the intake flap motor?

Thanks,

Timmy

The top IC hose from the IC to the front of the engine then turns 90 degrees towards the driver side, where that top hose bolts to is the ASV valve.

It is normal for it to wig-wag twice and then stay open..after shutdown.

I just replaced mine at 67K miles. My check engine light came on and off for a month or two. Had the codes scanned, it was P2112 as well. The anti shutter valve was getting stuck in a closed position, finally the motor started making a screaching noise, very loud and audible and I had it replaced. It was a bolt in and out job in 30 minutes, had the codes cleared and was on my way. The anti shutter valuve & motor was $300.00 + $85.00 for labor. Much less than a dealer job of $650-750, but should this part really fail at 68K miles??

Does anyone know how to remove the top from the intake flap motor. When I try. the electrical connection prevents me form moving the top from the bottom more then 4mm. I seems that there is some sort of a trick to get this top off.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks