This helped make my passenger side strut install a breeze. No axle undoing and the sub frame remains in place 
I installed a very compressed spring on the strut and put on the spring top plate. Then I looped a zip tie around the top of the strut shaft and then a bunch more zip tie loops slacked and ready to tighten with the bottom run through on the spring perch.
While it was out of the car I compressed the strut down as much as the spring would allow me to (about 2-3") and then started to tighten all of the zip ties down. As I released the strut the zip ties took the load.
This gave me just enough room to slip the strut into place. I then was able to get the strut bearing and rubber bumper into place.
I then cut the top zip tie and let the strut expand. I thought there would be a risk of the strut expanding and pinching the zip tie but there was plenty of room to remove it.
I can't see any possibility for damage using this method. The top spring plate does take a bit of side load but I figure if it can take a spring it can take a zip tie
What you can't see in the picture are the two jamb nuts on the bottom of the spring compressors allowing me to turn them from the bottom.
As far as removing the old strut I was able to take my 6mm or 7mm allen socket on an extension with a small piece of wood on it and push the old strut down from the engine bay. I was able to pull the allen out and yank the old rubber piece out before the strut came back up. Or .... you could just drill a hole in the strut body allowing to collapse but a bunch of oil would come out.
This is the second time doing this in the past two years and it sure is nice having the Metal Nerd strut wrench and spreader bit.
I installed a very compressed spring on the strut and put on the spring top plate. Then I looped a zip tie around the top of the strut shaft and then a bunch more zip tie loops slacked and ready to tighten with the bottom run through on the spring perch.
While it was out of the car I compressed the strut down as much as the spring would allow me to (about 2-3") and then started to tighten all of the zip ties down. As I released the strut the zip ties took the load.
This gave me just enough room to slip the strut into place. I then was able to get the strut bearing and rubber bumper into place.
I then cut the top zip tie and let the strut expand. I thought there would be a risk of the strut expanding and pinching the zip tie but there was plenty of room to remove it.
I can't see any possibility for damage using this method. The top spring plate does take a bit of side load but I figure if it can take a spring it can take a zip tie
What you can't see in the picture are the two jamb nuts on the bottom of the spring compressors allowing me to turn them from the bottom.
As far as removing the old strut I was able to take my 6mm or 7mm allen socket on an extension with a small piece of wood on it and push the old strut down from the engine bay. I was able to pull the allen out and yank the old rubber piece out before the strut came back up. Or .... you could just drill a hole in the strut body allowing to collapse but a bunch of oil would come out.
This is the second time doing this in the past two years and it sure is nice having the Metal Nerd strut wrench and spreader bit.
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