Rebuild Resistor Packs????

__. In an earlier thread http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=69958&highlight=Rebuild+Resistor+Packs%3F%3F%3F%3F Darren posts abour repairing the electriical components in the resistor pack on the heat/AC blower motor. Anybody have some detailed info on how to trace down the failed items and replacing them? Photos would be handy. Some of us have more than one burnt out resistor packs littering our garages.

__. It makes sense to just replace or repair them when they blow but when I did mine, it didn't last 5 minutes. At $50 a pop, that's an expensive lesson in "part replacing".

__. After I replaced the blower motor, I've had no more problems. And I'm guessing that the old motor (which wasn't a lot stiffer to turn than the replacement when out of the car) caused the thermal fuse in the resistor pack to burn out and all it needs is for that fuse to be replaced for my old packs to be reusable.

Not to hijack your thread, but I've got a similar problem with a resistor pack. Interesting to know that the failure might be related to the motor although the highest speed seems to work fine.

I've got the electronic Bentley manual and for the life of me I can't understand from the wiring diagrams why the A/C doesn't work on this highest speed. Works on the lower "speeds", but I've got to be going 70 to get any air through without the blower. I'be been completely unable to find a diagram that shows any connection between the blower switch and the A/C. Have you had any luck in this area?

Rick

rdtompki said:

Not to hijack your thread, but I've got a similar problem with a resistor pack. (snip)

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__. Yes, you do. Those were exactly the symptoms on both my resistor pack failures. My problem was that the blower motor was dragging/drawing too much current and it burnt up two resistor packs (well, the first one was burnt out when I got the car but the first I put on went out in 5 minutes).

__. I was told that this often happens when the cabin air filter isn't changed. Mine weighed about 5 pounds when I took it out.

__. Hope that your car doesn't need a blower motor/fan. It's not hard to change but you have to take out the console to take out the glove box. There are detailed instructions with photos on VWVortex.

__. You're welcome to one of my burnt out resistor packs if you know how to rebuild them. Just pay for postage and it's yours.

__. D@mn fine design, VW. Let's put a "thermal overload" in a $50 part that blows out before the 15 cent fuse. Real good thinking!

More than I was hoping to know! I've driven for 40+ years without a cabin air filter, much of that back East w/o air conditioning. Can't say I suffered much. Can't believe that the design wouldn't protect the motor. Since it sounds like quite a bit of trouble I may plan on a motor changeout. I may take you up on your resistor pack offer once I figure out what I'm doing. Pretty busy right now redoing a bathroom.

Can you post a close picture of both sides on the Resistor pack? I've got a really good electornics background. Maybe we can come up with something? I dont see why you can't just heavy solder a couple lines, and 'Make' the fuse pop first

Normally, the pack is bypassed on the highest speed settings. Hence that's the telling failure mode : only works at the highest speed.

mrGutWrench said:

__. D@mn fine design, VW. Let's put a "thermal overload" in a $50 part that blows out before the 15 cent fuse. Real good thinking!

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Perfectly normal thinking, TBH. The fan's running current will REDUCE if the cabin filter is blocked, but the lack of airflow means the resistor will overheat. Sure, they could do without the one-shot thermalfuse, but means that in the same circumstances the resistor wire will burn out. I for one don't want glowing bits of metal flying around the car. Possibility of fuego!

Easy to solder in a replacement one-shot; they're easy to get too, used in hairdryers, toaster etc...

DPM said:

Perfectly normal thinking, TBH. The fan's running current will REDUCE if the cabin filter is blocked, but the lack of airflow means the resistor will overheat. Sure, they could do without the one-shot thermalfuse, but means that in the same circumstances the resistor wire will burn out. I for one don't want glowing bits of metal flying around the car. Possibility of fuego!

Easy to solder in a replacement one-shot; they're easy to get too, used in hairdryers, toaster etc...

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Radio Shack has them. Probally will have to special order the correct temp rating thermofuse from their catalog, though. The blower motor thermofuse failed in the '85 Jetta once and I went this route to fix it. The original should have the temp. rating printed on it.

--Nate

Syndicate said:

Can you post a close picture of both sides on the Resistor pack? I've got a really good electornics background. Maybe we can come up with something? I dont see why you can't just heavy solder a couple lines, and 'Make' the fuse pop first

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__. OK, here's the resistor pack (inside view).



__. There is continuity between these points:

Point A --> (Nothing but point 1)

Point B --> Point C & Point D (and point 2)

Point C --> Point B & D (and point 2)

Point D --> Point B & C (and point 2)

No continuity between points 1 and 2.

__. Can anyone who knows something about electrons make any sense of this? Sorry, I don't know anything about a "good" part.

__. Here is a photo of the connector of the resistor pack and also the outer view. This plate is the lower bulkhead for the blower motor housing. When the plate is removed, the blower motor will come right out with no other fixings holding it.

Point A, Contact 1 (red square); should be the power. The resistor (blue square) between is what is probably going to need to be changed/upgraded. It seems that the power, must either be spiking (from a clogged filter or blower fan) and nuking the resistor or just thermal soaking, killing the cheap part.

We could either try to solder in a varible ohm resistor or the next step up. That should make the power pop the fuse and not the resistor.

Thoughts?

mrGutWrench said:

__. OK, here's the resistor pack (inside view).

__. There is continuity between these points:

Point A --> (Nothing but point 1)

Point B --> Point C & Point D (and point 2)

Point C --> Point B & D (and point 2)

Point D --> Point B & C (and point 2)

No continuity between points 1 and 2.

Click to expand...

The device linking 1 and 2 is the one-shot thermal fuse. It's blown, replace it. It's fusing temperature is printed on it...

Yea, 1 to 2 is the thermo fuse. Get the degree rating off of it and order a replacement from Radio Shack and solder it in. Maybe even go to the next degree rating higher, if its near the rating of the original. That may prevent future blowing. Use your judgement.

The prupose of the thermal fuse is to prevent the blower motor from burning up if it stalls, like if a mouse builds a nest next to it, locking it up after it is turned on, or if something makes it past the cabin filter and stalls the motor. I guess therotecally, the motor stalled and on high without a thermo fuse could cause a car fire.

--Nate

PDJetta said:

Yea, 1 to 2 is the thermo fuse. Get the degree rating off of it and order a replacement from Radio Shack and solder it in. Maybe even go to the next degree rating higher, if its near the rating of the original. That may prevent future blowing. Use your judgement.

The prupose of the thermal fuse is to prevent the blower motor from burning up if it stalls, like if a mouse builds a nest next to it, locking it up after it is turned on, or if something makes it past the cabin filter and stalls the motor. I guess therotecally, the motor stalled and on high without a thermo fuse could cause a car fire.

--Nate

Click to expand...

The current draw in such a situation should pop the fuse. Asuming its low enough. I dont know about the car fire part, its not drawing huge amounts of power.

Indeed, a stalled fan would blow the fuse if the selector is on MAX. At lower speeds it's unlikely that the current would rise sufficiently, being dissipated by the resistor.
But low or zero airflow, plus that extra heating, might be enough to melt the heater ducting in the vacinity of the resistor...

PDJetta said:

Yea, 1 to 2 is the thermo fuse. Get the degree rating off of it and order a replacement from Radio Shack and solder it in. (snip)

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__. Thanks, Nate. I've tried and tried (d@mn, the eyes are the second thing to get unreliable when men get old) but I can't read what's on it. Part of what's written on it is "behind" the thermo part as it's soldered on so I guess the next thing to do is to try to get it off and read what's on it in good light.

mrGutWrench said:

__. Thanks, Nate. I've tried and tried (d@mn, the eyes are the second thing to get unreliable when men get old) but I can't read what's on it. Part of what's written on it is "behind" the thermo part as it's soldered on so I guess the next thing to do is to try to get it off and read what's on it in good light.

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I know. My eyes are getting taxed (I got progressive bifocals last year). I keep a jewler's loupe in my tool box to read fine print on things like this and it works great!

--Nate

OK, so I just went to Radio Shack and tried to look up the part number on the Thermal Fuse. We couldn't find one to match, so I bought the three ratings they had in stock.

Soldered the lowest thermal rating, plugged in the unit and the problem was not fixed.

Removed it and tried the middle rating. A quick test in the garage and the AC and blower work as normal. I will be driving for the next few hours, so this will be a good test. If it continues to work, I'll report what part number I bought.

Seems to be working. I started with a 264°F Thermal Fuse, turned on the ignition, did not start engine, and tried the fan switch and AC button. Not working correctly still.

I removed the 264 and replaced it with the next step up which was 282°F and it works! Now I have no idea if this is proper, and chances are it isn't, but for a total of $20, I'm a happy camper so far. (Spent the $20 on the three thermal fuses, some new flux, and some skinny solder.)

Since this repair was not performed with a spec part, using this part is at your own risk. The part number on the package for the 282°F thermal fuse is 270-1320.

I am curious if this is my issue just started today. once I turn the blower on regardless of being on 1,2,3 or 4 the blower will come on for 30-60 seconds then shut off I will ten turn off the switch and with in just a few minutes can turn back on for 30-60 seconds. Any thoughts or ideas?

2000 Jetta manual climate controls

Update, my 282°F thermal fuse blew last week.
Time to get to the root of the problem. Change cabin air filter. Lube fan bearings/bushings if possible.

My blower resistor recently blew too. Someone built a nest in my cabin filter since my last oil change.



At $20 you're almost at the price of a new 1J0 819 022A.

Thermal Fuse 438 degrees radio Shack 270-1320 the one out of original Shows a sefuse sf226e can be ordered online

Need to have heat Sink on the end you are soldering as this will prevent the fuse from Blowing while soldering into place
a good Copper "Roach Clip" with 12 small piece of Copper wire will do

Proceed at your Own Risk !!

Putting new Blower motor in also

Never Had this Issue with My 58 chevy Blowers !!!

On my Jetta, when the resistor pack fails, the AC compressor and the engine fans will run in modes 1,2,3 with no blower... But the blower fan will only run in mode 4, while the compressor and engine fan shut down.

Such a brilliant design, VW. *headdesk**headdesk**headdesk*

I've been running for a couple months now with a heavy copper wire (8 gauge) wrapped around contacts A and D from the image... Works fine, but there isn't much difference in speed between mode 3 and 4. I'm OK with that, next I need to just take the whole thing apart to fix the blend doors anyway.

Not looking forward to that.

Coconut Sunrise said:

...Never Had this Issue with My 58 chevy Blowers !!!

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If there were no problems, why did you need 58 of them???

OK, just kidding as my comment is a joke.

Anyway, you must also realize that VW electrics are marginal at best and VW is known for delicate electrical stuff that does not age that well. If it was robust and worked no matter what like your '58 Chevy stuff did, then you would start wondering if it was really VW now, wouldn't you? Also, the dealers might start complaining because customers would not have to come back to the dealership to buy overpriced replacement parts. That is the real genius of VW's dealer support mentality.

Cheers,

PH

I had this same problem 2 summers ago. There is a thread on here some place that goes into very good detail with pretty good pictures if I remember correctly. bought the link between 1 & 2 in your picture at radio shack for $.97 and I haven't had a problem yet!! I will try to find the tread and link it