Codes P1441 P0245 P0216

If you had a relay 109 problem, the car would quit running.

Address 17 often stores "engine control module - no communications -- intermittent" if R109 starts randomly dropping.

The ECM is in the center of the channel under the windshield wipers. They pop off easily most of the time.

Funguy said:

OK I get a 1 on each of those two top pins on the pumpside for ohms. I get zero volts with the ignition on of course.

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They should be open to ground. I just saw this now. If you had the ohm meter on pin 9, gnd, and pin 10, gnd, then you need to check the N108 wiring. You said you got 15 ohms, across 9,10, which doesn't make sense if the above is true.

Cleaned the large ground under the battery. Sprayed both ECM conectors with contact cleaner and cleaned the ground on the ECM. When I connected everything back and turned on the ignition I got a blinking glow plug light and some weird codes like P0000. I cleared the codes and started it. Ran well with the turbo. I won't hold my breath on whether it will keep running since this is intermitent.

Wait and see I guess. Thanks again jcrews.

Well the turbo dropped out again and the exhaust smells like a 1971 city bus. Where do I go now? Could it be the CAT? I'm going to pull the egr and try cleaning it.

Which code(s) got set this time?

Hasn't thrown a code. I didn't drive it though when the turbo dropped out. Weird when I connected the battery after cleaning the grounds and ECM. The glow plug light started blinking, then the seat belt chime quit, then the passenger window wouldn't close automatically. I am feeling like my butt has been kicked here. I wonder if I could make the drive to boulder and recruit aNUT to help???? 30 miles

Is it worth it to clean the egr?

OK I just took it for a quick drive. The MAP pressure will not make 13. There is no sound of turbo and the car drives like no turbo. Aside from that it runs pretty good. Idle a bit rough but no noticable smoke even floored in 1st to 4000 RPM. I didn't remove the egr as it looks normal dirty not plugged up. No Codes showing?

13 what?

Did you check to see if your turbo is getting good vacuum at idle? Are all the charge air hoses still OK?

How do I check if the turbo is getting vacuum idle? I don't have any tools for measuring vacuum.

SGII so can I assume psi? way lower than normal

You don't have a mityvac? They're pretty cheap and handy. You can visually check it, just disconnect the N75 to turbo hose, look at the arm, and when you reconnect it (you should feel suction from the valve as well), the actuator should drop all the way down very quickly (within 1 second).

OOPS I see your post now. Will do

The hose to the ASV looks a little frayed but I can hear the ASV function just fine when I shut off the engine. I don't see any obvious damage to the hoses. Brakes hold vacuum for a long time after shutdown of the engine. What do you think about replacing the N75??

I wish I wasn't so ignorant about your terminology etc.

It's hard to see, but the actuator I'm talking about is mounted on the turbo, between the compressor (intake) and turbine (exhaust) sides.

If you get the angle just right, you can see it. Once you find it, it'll get easier.

I took the top, smaller hose, off (wrong one I know) and felt a fair suction from the hose. Got error code P0245 and p1441.
Then I took the lower, larger hose off (the turbo one I think) and felt no suction but I did hear a release of vacuum and I could hear a little suction while reattaching it. I think the suction is from the N75 at this nipple????

This gave me codes p0216, p0245 and p1441; the original codes when all this started
Jcrews this makes me think these codes make me think that my N75 is the culprit here. What do you think should I throw a new N75 at it?

Well I started it today after trying (unsuccesfully) to check the turbo actuator. As often happens the turbo was live when I first started it so I floored it in 1st up and down the street. Apologies to my neighbors; there was a good amount of smoke coming out of the tailpipe. I had to shut off and re-start the engine three times because the turbo dropped out. Continued to redline it until the turbo quit dropping out. Headed out to the highway and cruised at about 65 in third gear aroudn 4000 RPMs. I kept reving up to redline up and down on the way home. The smoke finally eased up and the turbo stayed live the whole time. My Scan Guage showed MAP of usally up to 24 or 25 (psi?) At one point I saw a reading of 32 though? I don't usually watch MAP pressure but that sounds high to me.?
I wonder if the earlier trouble I was having gummed up the turbo. I fixed the troubles by cleaning the grounds etc but when I cleanned the egr I further gummend up the turbo. By running the crap out of it I cooked and blew out the gunk and ........
Now I am not going to get my hopes up because this problem was intermittent but I really ran it hard for about 4 or five miles and she ran good. Wish me luck.
Jcrews you have the patience of a saint. If the problem starts again I am going to try changing the N75. That fails I will need to get help from my closest expert as I am in over my head. Thanks again
Guy

My concern is that you're seeing electrical fault codes. There are separate ones for mechanical/behavioral problems.

Yeah I am not going to take this car to the outback for a while. Don't really know what else I am capable or right now besides changing the N75. We'll wait and see.

I'm thinkin N75 on this one. I just replaced the one on our 2000 NB for no turbo (no smoke either, though) and I got the turbo back. They seem to last only 10 years. Both the one on the Beetle and my 96 Passat went bad. Have you checked/changed all the vac lines and also what about the intake manifold? A restriction in there can cause the car to smoke and not make turbo power. To really know you have to take a VCDS airflow reading or pull the manifold. I'm still thinking N75 or switched connectors on the N18 and N75. I did that accidentally on the Beetle when I cleaned the intake manifold on my wife's car and it ran really poorly, not getting over 20 MPH like you said. Smoke, too. The connectors on the N75 and N18 are the same. The effect is not.

Oh, and N75 is easy peasy if this is an ALH with two 10mm nuts and reconnect the lines one at a time so not to confuse. Make sure to plug the electrical connector back in, too.

Funguy said:

Yeah I am not going to take this car to the outback for a while. Don't really know what else I am capable or right now besides changing the N75. We'll wait and see.

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Thanks for the input. That solenoid hit me the wrong way too. I think I will change out the N75. If the car fails after that I will seek assistance because I think I will have done all I can myself.

N75 replaced and the problem still exists with the same three codes P1441 P0216 and P0245. I did get the car up on the ramps so I am going to try to have a look at the turbo tomorrow evening and see if I can ID the problem. I am up to my eyeballs with this crud..............

Look for chafing of any wiring on the N18, N75, and N108 (in the wire bundle that wraps around the side of the engine, to the IP). Don't unwrap anything right away, and keep the meter around so you see if any of the non-power pins (ECM device control pins) are shorted to ground or open.

You said aNUT is close by, maybe you should use that resource.

About thirty mile to aNut. I would really like to figure this out on my own but I am in need of my car so I may have to give up. Meanwhile I need to check:
1- turbo actuator movement with my finger?
2- look for chafing of wires
Thanks jcrews

To review: The car will sometimes run very badly with lots of smoke and and irregular rough idle. Cycle the key on and off and it will usually run better in fact normal. Then the turbo may drop out and the car runs pretty normal except no turbo. Might be my hearing but even when the turbo is running I don't THINK it is as loud as usual??? SGII says the MAP is topping out in the low 30's which is normal I believe.

So far I have:
1- Cleaned the snow screen and replaced the airfilter
2- Replaced the MAF
3- Cleanned the ground under the battery as well as the battery cables and posts
4- Cleaned the ground at the ECM
5- Cleaned the connection to the ECM and the pins with contact cleaner
6- Replaced the N75 solenoid
7- Cleaned the contacts on the injector plug
8- Checked that all the solenoids I could find got 12 volts

What about the intake manifold? Has this been cleaned? I know this is a duh but it can create the conditions you describe if it is plugged up. To really know the manifold has to come off the car or you have to look at airflow in VCDS,

Funguy said:

To review: The car will sometimes run very badly with lots of smoke and and irregular rough idle. Cycle the key on and off and it will usually run better in fact normal. Then the turbo may drop out and the car runs pretty normal except no turbo. Might be my hearing but even when the turbo is running I don't THINK it is as loud as usual??? SGII says the MAP is topping out in the low 30's which is normal I believe.

So far I have:
1- Cleaned the snow screen and replaced the airfilter
2- Replaced the MAF
3- Cleanned the ground under the battery as well as the battery cables and posts
4- Cleaned the ground at the ECM
5- Cleaned the connection to the ECM and the pins with contact cleaner
6- Replaced the N75 solenoid
7- Cleaned the contacts on the injector plug
8- Checked that all the solenoids I could find got 12 volts

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subscribing so I can find out the resolution to this...

but, btw, this thread scares the crap out of me...guru 200 miles away from me and, if this happened, i'd be lost. Ugh.

hope you're able to resolve it...

matt

sfierz said:

What about the intake manifold? Has this been cleaned? I know this is a duh but it can create the conditions you describe if it is plugged up. To really know the manifold has to come off the car or you have to look at airflow in VCDS,

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The fault codes are for electrical faults, not mechanical ones.

Sfierze. I did the intake a few years ago and it was a "female dog". I permanetly damaged my shoulder trying to torque with an allen wrench that was barely in reach...... Yeah Yeah boo hoo
Anyway I found very little crude then so I don't think I will do it again. Thanks friend for your input though.

Matt: I sure hope I'll have an answer for you soon. I've been driving my 15 passenger van @ 14mpg! Filled it up Saturday for $76. Thing is horrible in the snow also........

Funguy said:

Sfierze. I did the intake a few years ago and it was a "female dog". I permanetly damaged my shoulder trying to torque with an allen wrench that was barely in reach...... Yeah Yeah boo hoo
Anyway I found very little crude then so I don't think I will do it again. Thanks friend for your input though.

Matt: I sure hope I'll have an answer for you soon. I've been driving my 15 passenger van @ 14mpg! Filled it up Saturday for $76. Thing is horrible in the snow also........

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I wish you the best...re: your sig...i think i beat you as 'dumbest', as I'm fairly certain i wouldn't be able to figure out half of what you guys are talking about

matt

My code reader is now working. It says:
P1441 Manufacturer controlled auxiliary emission controls
P0245 Turbo/Sup Wastegate Solenoid A Low
P0216 Injection timing control circuit malfunction.
I also notice that there are bubbles in the clear fuel line while the engine is running.
The actuator required a pretty good pull to move it down towards the floor. It popped right back up when released. Is this normal?

No frayed wires that I could find. I looked for quite some time.

PM sent to aNut in Boulder. The only other thing I can think to do is change the vacuum lines or disconnect the cat. I just don't have the tools or know how to get this done and I need the car to run sooner not next year.

Thanks to all especially Jcrews. I will post the results. I am NOT HAPPY having to throw in the towel........

Well on the bright side next year is only 90 days away haha hope aNut can resolve your issue!