Codes P1441 P0245 P0216

Funguy · Sep 14, 2010

Big loss of power. Would only do 3000 rpms in 1st gear with the pedal floored. Some reason I go a partial return of power but I don't hear my turbo. My actron code reader went crazy so the above codes were pulled with my scan gauge II.

Fuse 34 is good and I couldn't find a bad fuse. Is it the MAF? If so why a partial return of power and no turbo. No oil on the ground

I need some help here thanks. Guy

Funguy · Sep 14, 2010

I unplugged the MAF and ran it only in the driveway. Sounded the same. I shot contact cleaner into the MAF and the connector. Now the turbo is running and the engine sounds OK.

Experienced members: Do you think it is safe to say it is the MAF??? The initial loss of power was severe!! Then it was just mild.

jcrews · Sep 14, 2010

P1441/17849: N18 open/short to ground

Open: No EGR
Short to ground: Too much EGR, low power, black smoke

P0245/16629: N75 open/short to ground:

Open: Low power/Limp mode, boost pressure too low
Short to ground: Limp mode, boost pressure too high

P0216/16600 N108 Open/short to ground

Open: Engine knocks at idle, constantly advanced timing
Short to ground: Low power, constantly retarded timing

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Read your timing value, and you'll have something to go on. None of the listed codes are against the MAF, although it is powered by the same circuit as those components. Are you proficient at using a basic multimeter or digital multimeter?

Funguy · Sep 14, 2010

I am not proficient with the multimeter but I have used it to test the glow plugs. Tell me where to "stick it" lol and I will try it.

I don't have a vagcom and I don't know how to get the timing value. Can my scan gauge II help me?

jcrews · Sep 14, 2010

Mode, DCV, + in N75 pin 1 (wire side), - on the engine. The engine doesn't need to be running, but the ignition must be on. Expected value: ~12V.

Mode, Ohms, + in N75 pin 2 (wire side), - on engine. Ignition must be off. Expected value: inf/O.L.

Look for IGN on the scangauge.

Funguy · Sep 15, 2010

Thanks. I am going to drive to work this am. I will attempt the multimeter tonight. Hope I make it to work and don't get stuck. I'll watch IGN on the scangauge Guy

Funguy · Sep 15, 2010

Car ran fine going to work this morning but I had a lot of trouble on the way home. At one point I couldn't get it above 20 mph. Turned it off and on multiple times and it finally started moving about 70% of power. No turbo until I got home and shut it off in the driveway. Turned it back on and there was the turbo. I don't think I got any useful info on IGN on the scangauge. It stayed around 0,1,2 depending on acceleration. In the morning, when all was running well it went up to 8 while still warming up under heavy acceleration. Don't know what that all means I'm afraid.

I'm too beat (and it's too dark) to go under the hood now. I am going to drive my van for a couple of days until I can dig into this. thanks again jcrews. I may try to pick your brain on Sunday, my day off

Funguy · Sep 16, 2010

I disconnected N75 and stuck the red probe into one hole on the female side. I stuck the black probe into the negative battery terminal. I got a 12.2 to 12.3 volt reading. When I moved the red probe into the other female hole I got 3.3 volts.

I then set the multi-meter to 2000 ohms and stuck the red probe into the female that gave me 3.3 (number 2?) and the black probe into the 12 volt hole (nubmer 1?) I got a steady reading of 763. Did I do this right?

What is my next step? Tnx

jcrews · Sep 16, 2010

With the power off (12V signal not present), put one probe on the engine (ground), and the other on each terminal, and record the resistance for each.

You should get a fairly high number, not near 0.

Do the same thing with the N18. Take the voltage readings with the power on as well. So far, your measurements look normal, and from your description, your problem is intermittent.

Make sure all the wiring for the N18, N75, and injection pump is not rubbing against any metal parts.

Funguy · Sep 16, 2010

So instead of one in each hole you want one ground and one in the hole on N75. This is ohms I believe?

I will have to do some homework to find N18 and I'm losing daylight. Wish I could get out of work earlier.

jcrews · Sep 16, 2010

Yeah, that's right. The N18 is right next to the N75. When you take the voltage reading on the N75, each probe goes in each contact. Having one fixed on ground is just for the resistance readings.

Funguy · Sep 16, 2010

I'm sorry I am kid stupid on this. On the voltage readings I went black to the battery ground and red into the two holes. I did get the 12 volts on one and 3 on the other so I guess that was OK to do.

So I did the ohms the right way this time. I got a high reading on one (1100 i think) but the other would only read about 20. Have I found a problem here? I'm going back out to see if I can spot the N18 as you directed

jcrews · Sep 16, 2010

Stand fast and I'll get you a baseline. I'm exhausted right now and I can't be very useful.

Funguy · Sep 16, 2010

You are doing great my friend. I found N18 just to the left, all black. Once again I grounded black to the battery and got 12 volts on one hole and nearly zero in the other. I turned off the ignition and set to 2000 ohms. I got 863 in one hole and only 26 in the other. I'm gonna quit this for tonight and get some dinner. Tomorrow I will try again. I can't say thanks enough. This is way over my head without guidance.

jcrews · Sep 16, 2010

I checked it quickly, the N75 at least had a path back to ground of about 15 ohms, so your reading looks OK.

All I can think of right now is to check the 12V signal when something goes wrong, since the power source is the only common element between those codes. In the worst case scenario, the signal will have to be traced through some test points.

Funguy · Sep 16, 2010

I read some posts with similar problems and I am starting to suspect the ECU. I don't think it is a vacuum line since the problem is intermittent. One friend, who doesn't know tdi's suggested unplugging the cat.

So my signals to n75 and n18 look ok at the moment. I will try to test when the car is acting up. Thanks again and goodnight

Funguy · Sep 17, 2010

Well it got worse today. I tried to move the car and could not get it over 2200 rpms in neutral. Ran rough and produced a lot of smoke. The smoke was not black and smelled nasty! I re-checked N75, N18 and two more that I found. All seem OK producing 12 volts on one side and high resistance also on one side. I pulled the air filter and it looks OK. I will clean the snow-screen tomorrow. I am thinking of cleaning the intake but I permanently damaged my shoulder last time I did it and it was not very dirty past the ASV area at all.

Suggestions please?? Anybody?? Codes 1441 0245, 0216. No power, nor turbo, lots of smoke. Oh and I pulled the large hose that goes to the ASV. There was a fair amount of wet black goop but no where near a blockage

jcrews · Sep 17, 2010

use your ohm meter to check each coil: N18, N75, and pins 9 and 10 in the injection pump.

Funguy · Sep 18, 2010

Hey jcrews. I changed the MAF sensor, cleaned the snowscreen etc and it is running like a charm. I am not 100% sure it is all fixed since the problem was intermitent but I am hoping it was the MAF after all. Thanks a bunch for walking me through the multimeter. Have a great weekend

Funguy · Sep 19, 2010

Well apparently it was not the MAF. I pulled the plug and checked with the multi-meter. number 1: .01 volts/1 ohm 2: 5.07 volts/737 ohm 3: .01 volts/ 004 ohm and 4: 12.2 volts/26 ohms number 5 is empty.

The conector next to the ASV looked like the wires were damaged. I peeled of the black casing and the wires look OK. I get 763 ohms and 12 volts.

Car idles rough and doesn't want to go above idle speed. Makes lots of smoke (not black) and ash when I try to rev it up

Where do I go from here?? Relay 109?

Funguy · Sep 19, 2010

I checked the pins on the injection pump but I don't know which is which. Holding the nipple down and going left to right: 1) 828 2) 1079 3) 027 4) 1 5) 1 6) 28 7) 1105 8) 212 9) 001 10) 1
Interesting that number 5 and number 10 would briefly show 1600 ohms and then drop to 1 each time I tested them.

jcrews · Sep 19, 2010

Sorry about not mentioning the pin location :S

9, 10 are the two closest to the round side of the connector. Measure the pump side of the wiring connector.

Funguy · Sep 19, 2010

OK I will check those tomorrow. I have ordered a relay 109 from metalman

Funguy · Sep 20, 2010

jcrews said:
Measure the pump side of the wiring connector.

I have been measuring everything on the opposite side, the female side of each component. Is this the wrong way?

I'm going out to measure the injector side of IP now.

Funguy · Sep 20, 2010

OK I get a 1 on each of those two top pins on the pumpside for ohms. I get zero volts with the ignition on of course.

jcrews · Sep 20, 2010

When checking each component (instead of the car wiring), you should measure the resistance across the stated pins, not each against ground.

Funguy · Sep 20, 2010

jcrews said:
When checking each component (instead of the car wiring), you should measure the resistance across the stated pins, not each against ground.

OK then you want the red lead on 9 and the black on 10. On my way out to check right now.

Funguy · Sep 20, 2010

OK I believe the reading was 15 between those two pins. Tough in the dark.

jcrews · Sep 20, 2010

That result is OK.

If you don't have any bad coils, and the power supply is good, all I can think of right now is to separate the ECM connectors, and clean both connectors and the ECM with deoxit, let it dry, reconnect, clear codes, and test again.

I'm going to check the N108 to earth for a baseline.

Funguy · Sep 20, 2010

Can't do the ECM in the dark. I will try to do that tomorrow or I am off on Wens afternoon. I will have to find the ECM as I don't know where it is exactly. I also have regular contact cleaner not deoxit.
I should have a new relay 109 on Friday. Thanks Jcrews.

Codes P1441 P0245 P0216

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