Time to replace my timing belt, what would you guys do?

It’s almost time to replace my timing belt...again. My Golf has 364k miles, the engine is a replacement after my timing belt shredded some teeth about 3 years ago. It has about 310k on it now. The story is here if anyone is interested.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=477509
I’ve been thinking about replacing the oil pump and cam sprocket. I’d be interested in your thoughts on that. Is oil pump replacement a necessity?

Only if your oil psi is not on par and or its shredding metal.
So I have a similar dilemma with my escape. Point is that you should fix it. If you dont and go with another car your just trading one set of problems for the next. Go with what you know and save money that way vs another.
Belt kit is cheep enough and it's a easy enough job.

I've done a lot of reading in the last couple of weeks considering the oil pump. Everything I have read said the oil pump should be fine, however, the tensioner and chain should definitely be replaced.
I was speaking with Franko6 the other day and he assured me that the chain and tensioner are specified to be changed at 250k.
I'm personally waiting on a couple items to change mine while I have access right now. I have an oil pump I'm installing and never see any reason to go party way.
I found that with the single mass flywheel installed, I cannot remove the oil pan as I cannot pull the bolts in the oil seal. So now, with the transmission out, is the time.

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Oil pump is likely fine. The chain and tensioner may perhaps be worn. While not super common, I have seen a few oil pump chains break and a few tensioners crack. So I like to replace them on 300k+ engines just to be safe. Not that hard, really. You'll need to take the oil pan off, and the front sealing flange (which means a new seal and a new crank sprocket bolt) and you should use the install tool T10053 for that.

While the chain is very short, you can compare new with old by holding the chain sideways and seeing how much it sags. That will give you some idea of how much wear has happened within all the little links. Worn chains cause "bunching" at the sprockets, which then eventually wears the sprockets out. Dirt bike riders know this all too well, it just happens MUCH faster.

eddieleephd said:

I found that with the single mass flywheel installed, I cannot remove the oil pan as I cannot pull the bolts in the oil seal.

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I do them all the time. Just need the right tools. Snap-On 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket to crack the bolts loose, then a Snap-On round end 5mm extended Allen bit to spin them back out. Remember, the 2.slow engines use the same oil pan, and have one-piece flywheels from the factory.

oilhammer said:

I do them all the time. Just need the right tools. Snap-On 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket to crack the bolts loose, then a Snap-On round end 5mm extended Allen bit to spin them back out. Remember, the 2.slow engines use the same oil pan, and have one-piece flywheels from the factory.

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The shallow 10mm swivel socket is the bomb, I probably have the same one...that's the only way I could get to them. Slight pita bit not horrible...I've also seen one attached to an extension but it wasn't snap on...and it was more like a CV joint

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WildChild80 said:

The shallow 10mm swivel socket is the bomb, I probably have the same one...that's the only way I could get to them. Slight pita bit not horrible...I've also seen one attached to an extension but it wasn't snap on...and it was more like a CV joint

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Hmm, guess it's one of the few tools I don't have in my bag.
I seem to find one tool to buy every now and then ;~}

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As always I appreciate the input. Any thoughts on the cam sprocket?

Tdijarhead said:

As always I appreciate the input. Any thoughts on the cam sprocket?

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What about it? Typically dont have issues

Just look it over, and spin it loosely on the snout of the cam (with the belt off) to see if it rotates true and has no wobbles. If there is no obvious issue with it, then no problem.

Yeah, the only issues I have read about are due to improper torque specs.
Slipping due to not torquing enough, and getting stuck on due to over torquing.

I'd replace the bolt if I had any concerns, however, torque to the recommended 33 ft/lbs to avoid issues and a maximum of 45 ft/lbs if terribly concerned about slipping.

Jokilla's unfortunate experience over torquing:
https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=298892

Supposed proper torque used and sprocket slipped
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=218960

The argument in both cases is that the torque wrench failed due to not being calibrated, The greatest worry is that you properly torque the bolts with a known good torque wrench.

It seems that the habit of loosening the torque wrench between uses is not always practiced.
Also the click style torque wrenches we typically use are subject to needing calibration, even the higher end wrenches must be calibrated occasionally.

So the reality is that your concern is probably better spent on a new bolt and proper torque wrench calibration than the sprocket itself...

We can spend a lot of money replacing parts and trying to do the right thing,
However, knowing we have the tools we need in the condition we need them to be in is often lost in the process.

A mechanic is only as good as his tools allow him to be.

Tdijarhead said:

As always I appreciate the input. Any thoughts on the cam sprocket?

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For a good puller

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EBUXEIA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

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If you do decide you want a new pump, I got one lying around (99.5) with 45k miles on it. Just PM or email me.

BobnOH said:

If you do decide you want a new pump, I got one lying around (99.5) with 45k miles on it. Just PM or email me.

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Thanks Bob, right now I'm leaning toward a chain & tensioner, but a 45k pump might be to much to resist.

eddieleephd said:

Hmm, guess it's one of the few tools I don't have in my bag.
I seem to find one tool to buy every now and then ;~}

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I always like it when I have to add to my tool collection. I assume the snap on version of this is what oilhammer uses.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volkswagen...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649



For the half dozen times I might use this a cheapie like this would probably be all I'd need.

That is the genuine one, same as I use. Snap-On does not make SSTs for these cars, they just steward the website for Volkswagen to order them through. Strange, I know.

I have gotten a lot of SSTs through Sam Stag over the years.

Wow that's all the more reason to add to the tool inventory. Thanks Brian

No prob, but like I said the cone part is very fragile, so be gentle. The edges like to crack and break pieces off. You place the cone on the crank, fit the new seal down over it, then use the pusher and bolt to push the new seal into place.

Thanks for the tip. I'm looking at doing the belt toward the end of next month. The last time I did this belt it was on an engine stand and it took all of 45 minutes or so.