RedTDIowner
Veteran Member
Does anyone have a link where we can buy this?
sachs clutch kit
- Thread starter cb1
- Start date
The_Stealth
Veteran Member
Been reading clutch threads, since I did injectors and Unitronic stage 2 tune on my 2003. My stock clutch occasionally slips if I hit the throttle hard in 4th or 5th. So I guess my clutch is not up to the task. I've read comparisons between the idParts Sachs G60/VR6 Clutch & Flywheel Kit (A4)(A5) and the Single Mass Flywheel (SMF) and Quiet Clutch Kit (A4)(A5), but I have not seen anything comparing them on my MKIV. Is the quieter one that much more quiet? I'd like to get the beefeier one, but I am worried after reading all these noise warnings. Does somebody have a sound byte to compare them?
RedTDIowner
Veteran Member
I had a chance to talk to GotEuroCorrado over the weekend and he really did a great job helping me understand why some people are having slipping problems with either of these kits you linked above. It lies with the quality of the pressure plate and flywheel and not with the quality of the replacement clutch itself. His are tested before he ships them and they are far better quality. Not trying to knock the competition but you don't want your clutch kit to be tested the first time you drive it. If it slips then you have to drop that tranny all over again. I'm ordering mine from him tomorrow.
Seatman
Top Post Dawg
The so called quiet one which isn't anything special, just a regular tdi smf sachs clutch kit, is totally silent, it doesn't make any noise. I've experienced this kit in various Mk3 cars and also my last tdi, never heard one noisy yet.
The only reason the VR6 one makes any noise is because the springs in the friction plate aren't designed for a tdi.
And if your not modding your tdi or not going past say 130bhp or so the standard sachs tdi smf is fine but if you're like me and going for more power then better to fit the VR6 one as it can take a lot more torque.
The only reason the VR6 one makes any noise is because the springs in the friction plate aren't designed for a tdi.
And if your not modding your tdi or not going past say 130bhp or so the standard sachs tdi smf is fine but if you're like me and going for more power then better to fit the VR6 one as it can take a lot more torque.
The_Stealth
Veteran Member
I would like to have the room for more power. Is there a way to get the silence of using a TDI clutch plate and still get the higher torque value of the VR6? Or will I need to go a different route, perhaps SBC?
Also, just how much of a noise difference are we talking about when comparing the VR6 to the "quiet" clutch?
Also, just how much of a noise difference are we talking about when comparing the VR6 to the "quiet" clutch?
Seatman
Top Post Dawg
My suspicion is that the VR6 friction plate is made of better stuff like decent brake pads. You might be able to get a fair bit out of the tdi one though but the torque would have to come in quite slowish I think in order fro it to last at all.
On the other hand we are talking about a car that sounds like a tractor on idle lol Bring on the rattle, see if I care
My VR6 one is sitting next to my PC along with the G60 smf waiting on either the weather or the use of a decent garage.
On the other hand we are talking about a car that sounds like a tractor on idle lol Bring on the rattle, see if I care
My VR6 one is sitting next to my PC along with the G60 smf waiting on either the weather or the use of a decent garage.
The_Stealth
Veteran Member
So the VR6 is only noisy at idle? if that's the case then I think I have a winner.
Seatman
Top Post Dawg
Well I now have the Sachs VR6 kit installed and have to say, it's really excellent so far, loving it, as for rattle it's nothing, with the car being tuned it tends to sound like a tractor on steroids at idle anyway lol.
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Long live the VR6 kit!!!
runonbeer
Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Unsubsribe!
eddie_1
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2004
- TDI
- Jetta Wagon 2003 TDI tuned to 170HP, A6 Wagon 2008 TDI 2.7L tuned to 340HP
Hwhat makes the werld go round laddie?
SAABNEWBIE
Active member
Vr6 sachs clutch kit installed
Acknowledging this is a long silent thread..........
After procrastinating for years, I finally installed my clutch setup which included a pullyard g60 oem flywheel and vr6 clutch and pressure plate. When I saw this thread, I was debating whether I should get the recommended friction plate. It would have cost me another $150 for it in addition to the $220 I already put out for the clutch/pressure plate combo.
After much gnashing of teeth, I cheaped out and went with what I had. After testing it for a 20 miles, I can tell there's something there when I depress the clutch pedal, and it goes away. But it's really nothing. It's comparable to adding an acoustic guitar part to the mix in a rock song. The TDI is loud under the hood anyway. My fear of anticipation was way worse than reality. The pedal feel is soft. Engagement is on the soft side. No slippage under any condition.
My old dmf flywheel was still in good shape after 120,000 miles. The old pp needed replacement. The reason I replaced my clutch was I could not shift to 1st or reverse while the engine was running without crunching it. The cause of it all was neither the flywheel nor the pp. It was the original throwout bearing. Some parts of it are plastic and 5/16 of its thickness was sheared off by the old owner, causing the low pedal engagement. I did not find any situation similar to mine when I researched the forums.
Before installing my SMF, I went through several months of replacing the slave cylinder and bleeding the lines maniacally, to no effect.
So my 2 cents is VR6 clutch is an acceptable option for a stock sedate ALH Beetle TDI. Next time I would probably go with a Luk DMF setup or the "quiet" smf clutch depending on price. I am not a performance driver so I don't need the extra headroom for abuse.
Acknowledging this is a long silent thread..........
After procrastinating for years, I finally installed my clutch setup which included a pullyard g60 oem flywheel and vr6 clutch and pressure plate. When I saw this thread, I was debating whether I should get the recommended friction plate. It would have cost me another $150 for it in addition to the $220 I already put out for the clutch/pressure plate combo.
After much gnashing of teeth, I cheaped out and went with what I had. After testing it for a 20 miles, I can tell there's something there when I depress the clutch pedal, and it goes away. But it's really nothing. It's comparable to adding an acoustic guitar part to the mix in a rock song. The TDI is loud under the hood anyway. My fear of anticipation was way worse than reality. The pedal feel is soft. Engagement is on the soft side. No slippage under any condition.
My old dmf flywheel was still in good shape after 120,000 miles. The old pp needed replacement. The reason I replaced my clutch was I could not shift to 1st or reverse while the engine was running without crunching it. The cause of it all was neither the flywheel nor the pp. It was the original throwout bearing. Some parts of it are plastic and 5/16 of its thickness was sheared off by the old owner, causing the low pedal engagement. I did not find any situation similar to mine when I researched the forums.
Before installing my SMF, I went through several months of replacing the slave cylinder and bleeding the lines maniacally, to no effect.
So my 2 cents is VR6 clutch is an acceptable option for a stock sedate ALH Beetle TDI. Next time I would probably go with a Luk DMF setup or the "quiet" smf clutch depending on price. I am not a performance driver so I don't need the extra headroom for abuse.
This is the most confusing thread ever.
I feel either I am retarded or a lot of contradictory info all over the thread.
Please tell me which will hold more tq, and not by what the site says what it holds.
The differences of the two?
Which is made of better quality material/strength?
Sachs Quiet Clutch and Flywheel Kit (A4)
[quietclfwkit] $349.00
Sachs Quiet Clutch and Flywheel Kit
OE Part Number: 02A105269A
Manufacturer's Part Number: K7003801 / 3000332001
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=76_102&products_id=2831
Sachs G60/VR6 Clutch & Flywheel Kit (A4)
[sachg60vr6a4] $359.00
Sachs G60/VR6 Clutch & Flywheel Kit (A4)
OE Part Number: 038198132H
Manufacturer's Part Number: 038198132H
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=76_102&products_id=764
I feel either I am retarded or a lot of contradictory info all over the thread.
Please tell me which will hold more tq, and not by what the site says what it holds.
The differences of the two?
Which is made of better quality material/strength?
Sachs Quiet Clutch and Flywheel Kit (A4)
[quietclfwkit] $349.00
Sachs Quiet Clutch and Flywheel Kit
OE Part Number: 02A105269A
Manufacturer's Part Number: K7003801 / 3000332001
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=76_102&products_id=2831
Sachs G60/VR6 Clutch & Flywheel Kit (A4)
[sachg60vr6a4] $359.00
Sachs G60/VR6 Clutch & Flywheel Kit (A4)
OE Part Number: 038198132H
Manufacturer's Part Number: 038198132H
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=76_102&products_id=764
GotEuroCorrado
Vendor
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2004
- Location
- just out of north east philadelphia
- TDI
- 2015 Porsche Cayenne diesel, 2005 Audi allroad 6spd, 2007 WCM ultralite (super 7)
both hold same. the second will chatter. speaking from experience of installing many of each. currently i have a alh beetle in the shop with the quiet kit running rc stage 4, 18/56 turbo, pp520 injectors, 3bar map, downpipe, 11mm pump, and a peloquin lsd in the trans for two wheel peel no slip...
no slip...
Last edited:
TDi Turbos
Vendor , w/Business number
Having searched the forum and not really found a hard and fast answer, and this thread being all over the place I think I will just put it out there and ask directly.
My Seat Ibiza 1999 AHU has a SMF, and about 4/5 years ago I fitted a Sachs VR6 clutch kit (pressure plate, friction disc and bearing). I also changed the crank seal but messed up fitting it and bent the lip.
The clutch lasted fine for 2 years at 150 bhp with my mods (injectors, uprated T15 turbo and a tune) but started slipping a couple of (ahem) years ago. I drove it gently and have the engine out at the moment (donor for a caddy van) so need to address the slipping.
There is undoubted lots of oil contamination on the friction disc so that will be replaced along with the crank seal. The flywheel has no markings at all really on the friction face, and a little brownish dust collected on the inside lip. The pressure plate albeit rather oily looks to be in very good condition.
The question I have regards the flywheel. I did not change the flywheel to the G60 item when originally installing the VR6 Sachs clutch. Was this a mistake? I would have researched at the time so can only assume that I would have read somewhere that the AHU SMF was the same as the G60 one. The reason I ask is my mechanic buddy assures me that something is wrong because the fingers of the diaphragm do not pull close enough to the block when the pressure plate is bolted down, so there must be a clearance issue somewhere. This coupled to a now slightly worn disk and obvious oil issues makes it slip.
Is the disc on the TDi Sachs clutch thicker? The amount of springs or the rattle / chatter do not matter at all to me. All I want to do is bolt the thing back on safe in the knowledge that it is not going to slip and is going to last more than about 20k miles. What is the safest route to a decent clutch from where I am? Change the flywheell? Use the TDi friction disc with the VR6 pressure plate (isn't the pressure plate the same on VR6 and TDi??)
My buddy advises me to take the clutch to the machine shop and get it skimmed to the right clearance, which I absolutely will do, but if I have dropped a bol**ck by not installing the right components in the first place I need to address that first.
Hope someone can give me a definitive answer. Cheers
My Seat Ibiza 1999 AHU has a SMF, and about 4/5 years ago I fitted a Sachs VR6 clutch kit (pressure plate, friction disc and bearing). I also changed the crank seal but messed up fitting it and bent the lip.
The clutch lasted fine for 2 years at 150 bhp with my mods (injectors, uprated T15 turbo and a tune) but started slipping a couple of (ahem) years ago. I drove it gently and have the engine out at the moment (donor for a caddy van) so need to address the slipping.
There is undoubted lots of oil contamination on the friction disc so that will be replaced along with the crank seal. The flywheel has no markings at all really on the friction face, and a little brownish dust collected on the inside lip. The pressure plate albeit rather oily looks to be in very good condition.
The question I have regards the flywheel. I did not change the flywheel to the G60 item when originally installing the VR6 Sachs clutch. Was this a mistake? I would have researched at the time so can only assume that I would have read somewhere that the AHU SMF was the same as the G60 one. The reason I ask is my mechanic buddy assures me that something is wrong because the fingers of the diaphragm do not pull close enough to the block when the pressure plate is bolted down, so there must be a clearance issue somewhere. This coupled to a now slightly worn disk and obvious oil issues makes it slip.
Is the disc on the TDi Sachs clutch thicker? The amount of springs or the rattle / chatter do not matter at all to me. All I want to do is bolt the thing back on safe in the knowledge that it is not going to slip and is going to last more than about 20k miles. What is the safest route to a decent clutch from where I am? Change the flywheell? Use the TDi friction disc with the VR6 pressure plate (isn't the pressure plate the same on VR6 and TDi??)
My buddy advises me to take the clutch to the machine shop and get it skimmed to the right clearance, which I absolutely will do, but if I have dropped a bol**ck by not installing the right components in the first place I need to address that first.
Hope someone can give me a definitive answer. Cheers