Clutch cylinders

I just replaced my master and slave cylinders 3 years ago with some from the local auto parts store, (1yr warranty of course) was made in Italy is all I remember. Here I am again having to pull the pedal up every time I shift again. bled it and no improvement.

Any recommended brands to go with this time that may last longer? Or is 3 yrs normal?

Three years normal?

NO, that is too short of a lifetime, even for cheap replacement parts.

A clutch (slave or master) is self-lubricating, and if it is machined well, shouldn't leak for years.


My original cylinders are from 1997, and have 343,xxx miles on them. (I'd hate to try to figure out how many presses of the clutch per mile the average is.... let's just agree that it's been pushed plenty of times...)

Try :

IDPARTS
WorldImpex
Another VW Parts place in Arizona that folks like.

Good luck,

Chessie

ATE and FAG are OEM suppliers

Are you using a power bleeder? I could never get them bled correctly doing it "manually" even with new parts.

16vjohn said:

Are you using a power bleeder? I could never get them bled correctly doing it "manually" even with new parts.

Click to expand...

They are supposed to be pressure bled like 16vjohn stated. On my jeep I had issues with the seals in the slave cylinder blowing out just about every year because it was a cheaply made product from the parts store. Get a GOOD product and pressure bleed it, not "old fashioned pumping".

Power bleeders are nice but cost more than a typical $20 vacuum pump from the parts stores. A fresh empty master and slave could use help on the initial bleeding (either pressure or vacuum).

Red Green Method:

If you are cheap and/or handy. You can rig up a vacuum setup using any *vacuum source*, Gatorade bottle and some tubing. Works good for getting the remaining oil from PD oil filter housings without mucking up your Mighty Vac reservoir. Drill two holes in the top of the Gatorade bottle. They must be a tight fit for the tubing used. The vacuum side protrudes inside an inch inside, the bleed tube needs be inserted at least 4". Connect the tubing. Use tape to get a good seal on from the tubing to the vacuum. Kick on the vacuum and crack the nipple. Once you get a good bit of air out. Finish by bleeding conventionally. I usually leave the pump running until the hose and reservoir is clear of the paint. Remember to keep the bottle upright as you work or brake fluid will be aspirated by your pump. Flush the tubes with water keeping the cap attached and bag it up for next time.

*Vacuum source*= wet/dry vac, vacuum cleaner, intake of an air mattress pump, or an actual automotive hand pump vacuum.

Gatorade bottle is used because it has thicker plastic and will not deform easily under vacuum. Total cost is a couple bucks for tubing assuming you drink the Gatorade.

I did the manual method 3 yrs ago, and was planning on doing it again. Guess I will see what I can come up with. I have access to lots of gatorade bottles . I also have a harbor freight vacuum pump with worthless attachments that leak.

I'll be changing it out next week. I remember that thing gave me hell last time. I'll have to make sure the kids aren't around since I'll probably be verbally abusing the car while I'm down there.

Thanks for the pointers.

Got mine from www.Idparts.com for "The Family Waggin" a couple yrs ago and so far, so good.