2005 Passat wagon auto to 5sp

Uberhare

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Location
Ontario, Canada
TDI
Too many.
The VW fluid is good stuff, although pricy, G 052 911 A2. It works well in extreme cold.

The passats and audi's with longitudinal drivetrains have hypoid gearsets, so they should have a GL5 lubricant. I've heard good things about Fuchs Titan sintofluid 75W80.

Regular 75w90 GL5 gear oils may work OK in warm climates, but do not work well in Canada...
I've been running the Fuchs for about 10 years now. Works great in cold. Fuchs is first fill for some production.
 

y22man

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Location
SLC, UT
I finished the swap, almost. I need some help with the wiring inside. The video I was watching on youtube has been great. What I can not clearly see is the 53 relay. I have started it by using a wire in the 53 relay block. But I would like to use the clutch interlock switch with cruse.
I understand pin 1 gray wire to directly to the interlock.
I do not understand the splice off pin 3. Where does that go? And the bottom wire in the harness for the 53 relay, where does that go?
And does the 53 relay go back into place?
On a side note I am liking the swap. I am having an issue with the brakes, I think I need to adjust the pedal. I am having fun getting the last of the air out of the clutch. All in all a very good swap.
 

vwztips

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Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
2005 Passat GLS Wagon TDI 5 spd manual w/BSM delete 2011 Tiguan TDI/DSG 2005 Audi A4 Avant 6MQ TDI 2011 BMW X5 35d
Cut the brown and white wire from Relay 53. Splice the end from the relay side to the clutch interlock switch. Splice the other wire from the interlock switch to a ground point. Cap the other end of the brown white wire. You don't need it anymore.

Loosen the jam nut on the brake pedal and turn the large hex nut in or out until the brake pedal is even with the clutch pedal.

For the clutch bleeding, I have tried many methods. (Pressurized, one man bleeder, mity-vac) The most effective is to loosen the bleed nut at slave cylinder and get a good flow coming out. Tighten bleed valve. If pedal is still soft and releasing low, pump the pedal 20+ times and then drive it. 9 times out of 10 a few short trips takes care of it.
 

y22man

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Location
SLC, UT
Cut the brown and white wire from Relay 53. Splice the end from the relay side to the clutch interlock switch. Splice the other wire from the interlock switch to a ground point. Cap the other end of the brown white wire. You don't need it anymore.

Loosen the jam nut on the brake pedal and turn the large hex nut in or out until the brake pedal is even with the clutch pedal.

For the clutch bleeding, I have tried many methods. (Pressurized, one man bleeder, mity-vac) The most effective is to loosen the bleed nut at slave cylinder and get a good flow coming out. Tighten bleed valve. If pedal is still soft and releasing low, pump the pedal 20+ times and then drive it. 9 times out of 10 a few short trips takes care of it.
Thanks for the reply. Does the 53 relay need to go back once the wires are spliced like your reply?
 

vwztips

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
2005 Passat GLS Wagon TDI 5 spd manual w/BSM delete 2011 Tiguan TDI/DSG 2005 Audi A4 Avant 6MQ TDI 2011 BMW X5 35d
Yes, plug the relay back in.
 

y22man

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Location
SLC, UT
I am still having an issue with brakes. The jam nut and large hex is all the way towards the firewall. All was great. It did have to be all the way to not drag the brakes.

I put the Lower dash on and now it pushes against the brake pedal shaft. The pedal still sticks out taller about .5 to an inch. Not sure how to adjust it any lower.

Jay
 

vwztips

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
2005 Passat GLS Wagon TDI 5 spd manual w/BSM delete 2011 Tiguan TDI/DSG 2005 Audi A4 Avant 6MQ TDI 2011 BMW X5 35d
Did you remove the Aluminum pedal bracket when installing clutch pedal? If yes, most likely the bracket isnt aligned properly on the 2 dowel pins on the firewall.
That would make it sit high and take all your pedal adjustment away and the pedal will sit high like in the pic
Very annoying to deal with.
 

vwztips

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Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
2005 Passat GLS Wagon TDI 5 spd manual w/BSM delete 2011 Tiguan TDI/DSG 2005 Audi A4 Avant 6MQ TDI 2011 BMW X5 35d
What year car did you get the brake pedal from? The early cars had a longer threaded coupling than the later cars. Compare the coupling length of the auto brake pedal to the manual one. Most likely you have an early one.

If that is the case, then you can remove the rubber cover from the auto pedal and grind off the welds on the front part of the pedal and remove the wide piece of steel. What's left is a narrow brake pedal for a manual.
 

vwztips

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
2005 Passat GLS Wagon TDI 5 spd manual w/BSM delete 2011 Tiguan TDI/DSG 2005 Audi A4 Avant 6MQ TDI 2011 BMW X5 35d
I removed the entire front plate on the brake pedal so the rubber pad would fit correctly
 

y22man

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Location
SLC, UT
What year car did you get the brake pedal from? The early cars had a longer threaded coupling than the later cars. Compare the coupling length of the auto brake pedal to the manual one. Most likely you have an early one.

If that is the case, then you can remove the rubber cover from the auto pedal and grind off the welds on the front part of the pedal and remove the wide piece of steel. What's left is a narrow brake pedal for a manual.

Not sure the year. I did the frans kit. I will inspect the auto this afternoon.

Jay
 

y22man

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Location
SLC, UT
So, I swapped the spinning nut from the auto pedal to the frans brake pedal. It was easy to Change just a few plastic tabs. Found out the brake switch was bad. New switch and now not seeing brake switch code.

Last code is p2102. I took the cap off the intake flap motor. It looked clean. Gears look in great condition. Contacts are good. I am going to take the ruber hose off and inspect while cycling on to off position. Too cold to do it tonight. But did find in other threads that fuse 34 was blowen. I looked at the fuse pannel and I do not have a fuse in slot 34. Could that be the problem with the intake manifold flap code/mil light?





I am going to do the cruise wiring under the steering wheel on Saturday.

Jay
 
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y22man

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Location
SLC, UT
About 30 days since the swap was complete. I am happy with the swap. I am seeing 30s around town. I do see a noticeable change in MPG on a long highway run. 70 I see upper 30s to low 40 MPG. Once I go above 70 the MPH drops. I did a 125 mile drive to Evenston, WY and I got 33 MPG at 80 MPH. I am happy. My 2011 Accord would get 28 on the same drive.

Turbo is blowing oil, and I just ordered a replacement. Shocks and struts needs to be replaced and I will be done with the purchase and conversion items that needed to fixed.

Thank you all on this board for the assistance. And thank you to Malone for the tune. Thank you to Frans for the parts for the conversion.
 
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imo000

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Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Location
Cambridge
TDI
2009 M-B ML320 Diesel & '05 Passat TDI Manual 5-Speed
That Accord fuel mileage is dangerously close to your Passat. Dangerous enough that it might not be worth the hassle to deal with these old TDIs.
 

y22man

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Location
SLC, UT
That Accord fuel mileage is dangerously close to your Passat. Dangerous enough that it might not be worth the hassle to deal with these old TDIs.

Agree'ed, but it is part of the family now. I will not do something like this again. Now I know.

My wife keeps telling me it is my mid life crisis. Somehow I pictured a 500+HP seldom driven car.
 

imo000

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Location
Cambridge
TDI
2009 M-B ML320 Diesel & '05 Passat TDI Manual 5-Speed
Agree'ed, but it is part of the family now. I will not do something like this again. Now I know.
My wife keeps telling me it is my mid life crisis. Somehow I pictured a 500+HP seldom driven car.
Fair enough but if you want to get a cheap 500hp car then look at the E55 or the CL55 AMG Benzes from '03-'05. My father has the CL and my buddy as the E. They are both monsters. Amazing cars for so for less than $15K CDN.
 
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