1988 audi 80 quattro to pd130

Good, that's what I figured, but it's good to hear from somebody that has done it. So Scott, all I need are those parts and the body side harness (if available).

Well here are some pictures of me hacking up the intercooler, it was kind of nerve wracking. but I am happy with the outcome.




I still have a little cleaning up to do, but I think that I am about ready to fit it and the radiator in the car and buy some silicone hoses to route the boost hoses .

eclipse, good call on the silicone fittings note. I should of mentioned that myself.

For a fuel cooler, funny you bring it up, I was just talking with VWmikel a couple days ago about this. This is a pic of his set-up.



All fuel in return line will pass through this before its journey to the tank.

As for a pressure regulator, I install hydraulic check valve with a 5psi drop across it. I install the check valve as a "T" into the fuel supply line. The other end "t's" into the return line. Thus it regulates the supply line pressure at 5psi plus pressure in return line at point of installation. Hope that makes sense.

Well I got a little bit done this weekend, but not as much as I would have liked. I made the front snub/engine mount and got the intercooler/radiator attached to each other, but ran into a small issue. The radiator is too wide for the space between the headlights unless I space it about 1/2 inch away from the harmonic balancer pulley, but that doesn't leave enough room for an electric cooling fan to pull air through. What I am thinking about doing is putting two fans to push air through the intercooler and radiator. I'll have to put some good foam between the intercooler and radiator to seal between the edges for air leaks to ensure enough airflow is getting to the radiator.

On a sad side note it looks like my parts supplier Scott Dewitt had a fire at his place and some of the parts I need got destroyed. Sounds like nobody was hurt, but he had a lot of good parts that were destroyed.

Nice fuel cooler, I'm sure that it does an excellent job, maybe I'll start keeping my eyes open for a similar setup. As for the hydraulic check valve I kind of get it, I'll have to find some more information on how to build it and where to get the parts.

you can use this fuel cooler also, its from BAU PD engine or you can look for oil cooler from AUDI 100 C3 with 2.0TD engine, its nice cooler also btw, PDs have fuell cooler just only to prevent damage of plastic parts in fuel tank, in principle it does not affect engine power (of course if you not have 5L in tank )fuel temp is measured at the return line and also fuel cooler is on return line.

This is the BAU cooler:

John,

Hey I managed to unearth a starter and an alternator, and they were not harmed by the blaze.

Give me a few days to package them and I will send them off. Did you still need a MAF? And what about the accelerator pedal?

Ahhh that is great news . I do need a maf, I have one that I can probably use if it takes some time to round up the right one. I have been contemplating the ecm tune that Vwmikel has for tdisyncro that the smoke map is more based on the map sensor than the maf sensor. I will have to budget for it though. Tdisyncro, are you still running that tune and if so how do you like it?


edit: I deleted the V-6 TDI Touareg post due to conversion relevance.

Just about all VAG V engines now a-days have cams that are rear chain driven. I've even heard the new 2.0 FSI engines will have chain driven cams.

That's true, the 09 passats, gti's, and Tiguans all have the 2.0 tsi engines that are chain driven. I can't say whether I like them or not yet. Less t-belt services, but maybe there will be chain and guide failures.

I'm outside in my garage right now working on the wiring on the Audi. I'm in heaven

I made some progress with the wiring, mainly finding the different circuits from the ecm that need to be constant, key on, and x power circuits amongst others. I found all that I need from the origional 80's circuits but I left some necessary tools at work though, so I didn't cut and splice any of them yet. I think that I will do relayed circuits too, that way I can fuse and control the wire sizes going to the ecm and don't have to worry about the 80's old wires being overloaded.

I must say that it is really nice staying with the vag family, even back in 1988 a lot of the circuitry and connectors are the same as they are today. For example I had been wondering how I was going to get the vss signal to the ecm, I found the AWX harness connector to the ecm and it is the same connector that goes into the 01A from the 80. Vag interchangeability is awesome. The power steering was no big deal too, I didn't even need to get a line made, the origional banjo style is the same size as the AWX p/s pump, I only had to re-bend the piping.

I noticed a while back that the aluminum coolant flange was broken where the ect sensor goes into it, so the clip wouldn't hold it securely in place. I remembered that I had the same flange from an ALH somewhere at home, so I took the AXW flange off and started searching for a burried part. I finally found it and it has the coolant glow plug flange on the end of it instead of the 90 degree fitting that comes on the longitudnal tdi motors due to tight spaces. That got me thinking, I don't have the space restraints on the back side of the engine, I actually have quite a bit of space back there, it sure made putting the bell housing bolts in nice. Anyways I think that I will leave the coolant glow plugs in and wire them up on a switch. It doesn't get as cold here as in some places, but I'm sure that on a very cold day it might be nice to have a little extra heat for the heater core. I have an old coolant recirc. pump from a vr6 jetta and I could hook it up inline with the coolant hose and have heat in the vehicle without the engine running, just a thought that I am not committed to.
*Edit*


installed (there's a lot more space here than in the newer Passats and A4/A6s, probably because of the battery plenum)


I will edit in some pictures tomarrow, my house internet is being slow right now.

Does anybody know where I can get just the flange for the turbo so that I can make up the down pipe? I could just make one from the gasket as a template, but if there is somebody that makes them already that would be a little less of a hassle. Also could somebody get the part # from the electronic throttle pedal assembly connector. I have the assembly, but no body harness to rob the connector from.

jjordan11 said:

Does anybody know where I can get just the flange for the turbo so that I can make up the down pipe? I could just make one from the gasket as a template, but if there is somebody that makes them already that would be a little less of a hassle. Also could somebody get the part # from the electronic throttle pedal assembly connector. I have the assembly, but no body harness to rob the connector from.

Click to expand...

If your turbo outlet is like the VNT15/17 then I think I have one of those flanges sitting around. The accelerator plug should be part number 3B0 972 706 and the pins for it would be N 103 358 07.

I got the connector and pins ordered, I also ordered a 3 bar map sensor. I need to get a boost valve for it though. I have a couple for the wastegate style, but not for the vnt. Still waiting on the starter and alternator though, but it's ok because I still have some wiring to do before the first start up.

I got a bit more work done on the 80 today. I got the X contact wired up to a source on the car, I tapped into the A/C pressure switch in the engine bay for it. I also got the 15 power tapped from an old coil 15 power that I won't be needing now .

I had been dreading the fuel filler neck, I hadn't really looked too closely at it and didn't quite know what I was going to do to enlarge it for the larger diesel pump handle. It turned out that I was dreading it for no good reason, there was an insert in there that with a little bit of persuasion popped right out. It is now plenty big for the diesel fuel pump nozzle. I got all the old gasoline out of the tank, I didn't remember having it so full, I probably pulled close to ten gallons from it. I purged the lines with about 2 gallons of diesel, I'll still need to change the fuel filter there in the back of the car, but it's nice to have that part done.

I still need to figure out some of the wiring for the car things like the tachometer, temp gauge, oil pressure light, and cruise control. I think that I will try to keep the 80's cruise control system instead of using the AWX ecm for the cruise.

The intercooler and radiator are pretty much in place, but I am having a difficult time finding a cooling fan that is low enough profile for the front of the cooler. There is about 1 1/2 inches of clearance, I can modify the front section for about 2 1/2 inches, but if I can find a fan to push the air though I would rather go that route.

btw, how you want solve problem with temp gauge ? I trying reuse existing double temp. sensor what come with engine but it have totaly different resistance than A80/A100 sensor/gauge, at the end I get sensor from old engine and mount it on Alu coolant flange near original temp. sensor. If you try do it at same way, take care on 3 water heaters, dont mount sensor near to heaters, your temp gauge can go crazy (old temp gauges is not ,,filtered,,)

Not too much going on yet, just waiting for the alt. and starter to be shipped to me. I ordered some more parts and got some others. I ordered an electric cooling fan and a fuel cooler. I got the connector housing for the electronic throttle pedal.

That's good to know Tomi, I'll be sure to not have it located after the coolant glow plugs. I hadn't done much experimenting with the coolant temp sensors and I had assumed that the newer style would give a reading to the instrument cluster, I guess that won't be the case. Maybe I'll just get a scan gauge and read the coolant temp. from that.

just use sensor from old engine and mount it near original like this (on left side is a screw used as plug, that is from first try to mount sensor but heaters do they job and gauge goes crazy ) but if you want do this, do it before you assembly engine to car, after mounting engine to right place there is very stupid access to that back parts.

Scott_DeWitt said:

Just about all VAG V engines now a-days have cams that are rear chain driven. I've even heard the new 2.0 FSI engines will have chain driven cams.

Click to expand...

A La VR6

Cr Hpip

jjordan11 said:

Well this doesn't have to do with my conversion, but I have to post this.


I think that I drove my future vehicle, the V-6 TDI Touareg in all it's glory

Our technical rep came and was driving it. I went over and immediately started drooling over it. I snapped some pictures of the engine without the cover on it and some things that caught my eye. Here are some more pictures of the engine without the cover. I don't have any technical specifications right now, but it looked like it is chain driven on the back side of the engine (like the vr and v-8 fsi motors). The high pressure fuel pump is driven by the left bank intake cam (I think).

After I got done drooling he let me take it out for a spin, It's not quite the V-10, but it is every bit as fast and torquey as the V-8 with a lot better mileage. It feels very nimble too, not heavy like the V-10 and it's very very very quite. Almost quieter than the gas vr6 motor and definately quieter than the V-10. All in all I would say that if VW markets it right and the price isn't too outrageous than it will be a huge hit.

Click to expand...

jjordan11

1stfall up on the conversion. You've done an amazing conversion job. 2ndly thanks for sharing the pictures with us.
Btw, IMMSMW, the CR HPIP is driven off of the rh intake camshaft (driver side). You can cleary see the SB gear sprocket and the SB in pictures 3 & 4, and the protective large plastic cover below the Al intake plenum. The HPIP is mounted in the "V" block. You could also see the supply and return fuel lines coming of the top of the HPIP that feed the lh & rh common rail tubes.

Cheers,

Thanks for the comments about the car and Touareg, I haven't "officially" received the technical literature for that paticular engine, but I think it's safe to declare about the hpfp being belt drive from the driver's side bank. That thing was awesome to drive. Btw I had to do a search for immsmw, but I now know what it means .

Back on topic thanks Tomi for the pictures of the coolant sensor mounted in the flange, I'll have to do that. I sold the 5cyl. motor that came in the car, so I will have to buy a new audi 80 coolant temp sensor.

I received the cooling fan and a small trans. cooler in the mail yesterday, so I should have plenty to do this weekend. I'll use the trans cooler for the fuel cooler, I'll post some pictures when I mount it.

I am still debating on doing the electronic throttle pedal in the engine compartment with the original throttle pedal moving it. One disadvantage would be that the connector and assembly aren't weather proofed, so I think that I will make an air tight box to put the assembly and wiring into so that I won't have to worry about moisture intrusion.

You're welcome.

Now you got me thinking about this alternate coolant flange housing. This is a very good solution. If space is available, I might want to install this coolant flange housing on the B5.5. The extra heating elements will help the car warm up faster. And this's a good thing because it's been getting very cold here in the early morning. Winter isn't over yet.....



Could you tell me the overall length of the coolant flange housing, please. My thouhgts to use a 90 deg elbow coolant hose.

Cheers,

I can, but I'll tell you now that it wouldn't fit. On the audi 80 there isn't the plenum chamber that holds the battery, so there is a lot more room behind the engine in the Audi. I'll still measure it for you though when I get home tonight.

Then I might have to use the outlet flange that goes straight down like this one.......



Cheers,

thats odd with that straight outlet flange, as I know 90degree outlet is original part for Passat/SuperB (I know because my engine come without that outlet and I order it by ETKA number), maybe longitudinal mounted PD engines (Passat) have 90 degreee outlet and crosswise mounting (Golf..) have straight outlet, hm ?

tomiisp said:

thats odd with that straight outlet flange, as I know 90degree outlet is original part for Passat/SuperB (I know because my engine come without that outlet and I order it by ETKA number), maybe longitudinal mounted PD engines (Passat) have 90 degreee outlet and crosswise mounting (Golf..) have straight outlet, hm ?

Click to expand...

You provided the picture, right??? I just used it for better illustration. Btw, do you know the P/N for the turndown coolant outlet flange is? Thanks,

Cheers,

The straight outlet flange is indeed from a transverse golf/jetta/beetle. Tomi does your aluminum 90 degree outlet have provisions for coolant glow plugs?

jjordan11 said:

The straight outlet flange is indeed from a transverse golf/jetta/beetle. Tomi does your aluminum 90 degree outlet have provisions for coolant glow plugs?

Click to expand...

yes, it have glow plugs there (one is visible on photo behind the hose) and it have VAG number 038 121 144 A (for Passat '03)

Well it's time for me to do a small update, I spent most of my saturday morning trying to chase down a check valve here locally for the fuel system, no luck yet, I'll have to do some more searching. I got the electronic throttle pedal modified for the most part, I still need to clean up the mounting plate a bit. I am in the middle of trying my hand at laying fiberglass. I am building a box to hold the throttle pedal assembly and wiring for it. I'll also build a box for the ecm and wire connectors that would go through the plenum box into the passenger compartment of the origional passat/A4. I'll post some pictures later.

I mounted the Audi sensor in the flange, thanks Tomi for that info. Here's a quick picture, sorry about the quality of the image, it's from my laptop.

I got the bottom part of the fiberglass box partially completed, I want to put some filler on it to make it look better, but the integrity is good. The box is for the throttle pedal assembly. I'll then put another fiberglass box on top of that for the ecm.

I tied in the oil warning lamp from the 80 into the oil pressure switch and will tie more things into the 80's system when I get it started and further along.

Jon

nice mount
and about oil pressure switch,have you there original oil pressure switch from PD or you have used old from Audi ? I ask because my engine come with oil pressure switch (brown cover) and that switch work in reverse (like Audi 1.8Bar sensor for dynamic oil pressure check) than classic switches, that mean, classic 0.3Bar sensor is NC type - Normaly connected and when pressure goes above 0.3bat it disconnect (used for warning lamp), but that brown oil switch what I have there is NO - normaly open and when pressure goes above specified level it connect..
btw, have you also oil sensor (level and temparature, used for LongLife systems) at the bottom of oil pan ?

that brings up a good point with the oil pressure switches. I did notice that when I grounded the 80's signal wire the oil pressure light and buzzer went out. Maybe I'll just leave it grounded and go with a pressure gauge instead of the light.

The engine does have the oil sensor, but I wasn't planning on utilizing it unless you know of a good trick to get information from it without the instrument cluster. Are you using it?