1942 Willys MB rock crawler build

rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
A wiring issue?

Do you have an oil pressure gauge?
Bought a cheapo gauge but haven't thrown it on there yet. I was hoping the oil change would cure it. It didn't. I'm gonna pick up a new switch tomorrow and see if that's it. Pulling my tcases tonight to reseal them. I have no idea where this issue came from. Literally overnight.
 

rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
When I undid the filter cap, with it all the way unscrewed and just sitting on the housing I instantly got a lot of overflow. Is there a way to check resistance or something on the switch itself? Oddly enough, vcds showed no signs of an oil pressure issue..
 

rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
Well I just threw a new (autozone part) switch in it. Still no dice. So where do I go from here?

Edit: I just noticed, my tach isn't working now either? Related?
 
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rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
:Homer: due to the lack of a tach I decided to check fuses....dammit. It's always the little things. :homer:
 

rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
So who knows what size T I need to be able to install a pressure gauge? The fittings on the gauge are 1/8" NPT & 1/4" NPT. Just from memory I'm guessing the pressure switch is M10.
 

greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
yup. m10x1

You can get adapters at the auto parts store to go from this to NPT. Don't forget an aluminum or copper washer to seal against the housing since it is straight thread.
 

rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
What's people's opinion on exhaust wrap? I've read some pros and cons to it. I'm basically interested in it to try and keep things near the downpipe cooler. I do have a steering fluid cooler and line somewhat close to the downpipe (atleast 3" between the two).
 

Bczuk

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2012
Location
Mission, BC
TDI
LWB Samurai - 2001 Jetta
Anyone local to you do ceramic coating? There was a place by me that was pretty reasonable so I did the exhaust side of the turbo and down pipe
 

rooney77

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Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
Anyone local to you do ceramic coating? There was a place by me that was pretty reasonable so I did the exhaust side of the turbo and down pipe
I don't think anyone local can spell ceramic coating much less do it. ;) It's mainly cheap parts store grade tubing anyway. I'd just like to keep the heat where it belongs but I've read how wrap can lead to much faster material fatigue. Just curious if anyone else has done it and had issues or if it's worth it.
 

rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
So I was out driving around this weekend and it seemed to do great. I was averaging about 50mph comfortably. I was not beating on it since I'm still finding bugs. After I came to a stop sign as I accelerated again I noticed that in 4th gear (jeep trans) I could no longer hit redline. So I down shifted and same deal. Just out of nowhere it seems I lost power. This has happened before but went away next time I drove it. It's been raining and I've had the tcases out resealing them so I haven't tested it again. There are no codes or lights. Any idea what it could be? MAF going out? AFAIK it's original. :D

I've also wondered if it's a temporary overboost response since I had an overboost code once. Which I attributed to my IAT/pressure sensor location (right in the 90* bend going into the ASV valve). Kinda made me wonder if I need to put it in the intercooler instead of the intake tubing.
 
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Growler

Got Soot Vendor
Joined
Nov 24, 2003
Location
Millersport, Ohio
TDI
Schmutz, 2015 Golf Sportwagen DSG & Schnurren, 2001 Golf GL 2 door 5M
Sounds like limp mode.

if you can get it to do that regularly, you can get ahold of VCDS and log groups 1, 3, and 11. make it go into limp mode and post the .csv file here for people to look over.

perople will be able to tell you what is going on based on the logs. of course this is assuming you still have the OBD2 port installed and functional and havent gone MTDI..

Ive read the thread but do not have your setup memorized.
 

rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
Sounds like limp mode.

if you can get it to do that regularly, you can get ahold of VCDS and log groups 1, 3, and 11. make it go into limp mode and post the .csv file here for people to look over.

perople will be able to tell you what is going on based on the logs. of course this is assuming you still have the OBD2 port installed and functional and havent gone MTDI..

Ive read the thread but do not have your setup memorized.
It's all still there. I'll try to get a log tomorrow if I can figure out a way to secure my laptop in the jeep. :D If not, I may have to do it this weekend when my buddy will be there with me.
 

rooney77

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Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
Not exactly a data log but I did get the limp mode again. Seems to only happen in 3rd gear near redline and then in 4th gear. A very noticeable drop in power. Here's what the scan told me.

19561- Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239)
P3105-31-10 Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
17965- Charge Pressure Control
P1557-35-10 Positive Deviation - Intermittent


I think the first one is because I used my kill switch, basically a button that shuts the ASV on command. The second one, I have no idea.
 

greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
Second one is why you went into limp mode. When you get the logs you'll probably show a graph with actual boost ramping higher than requested and it doesn't trigger limp mode until you've been on boost long enough...winding it out in one gear at WOT for instance.

Overboost can be due to many things but the most common culprit is sticky vanes or a sticky vnt. I would start out double checking where your actuator is set at (3"Hg open, 18"Hg hitting stop) and go from there. Other possible causes: sticky N75, restricted vent line to N75, among others.
 

rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
I'm gonna start with what's easiest first. I'm gonna try and clean the n75. It's super easy to get at so I'd rather start there. If that doesn't fix it I'll try the actuator.

Greengeeker, what does "3"Hg open, 18"Hg hitting stop" mean? I know you're talking about the actuator but the Hg is throwing me off.
 

rooney77

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Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
OK, more info for ya. Disconnected the maf, lost power. Vcds cycled the actuator (basic settings group 11). Check valve works (can only blow one direction through it). Noticed that the two hoses from the n75 & n18 that go to the air box were connected together so they were not venting to the atmosphere. So I unhooked that hose so both valves vented openly, test drove and no change. Any other ideas? Would the actuator cycle if the vanes were sticking?

This drawing should help. The line on N75 opposite the "vac" and "out" lines tees in with the same line from N18 and then goes to the airbox. I had a single hose connecting those two ports on both valves. Could this be the problem? Also, can I just leave the hose just open in the engine compartment or does it need to connect to the air intake somehow? I drove it with the hose just open to the compartment and still didn't have enough power to get above 2000 rpm in 4th gear (36" tires, 4.11 gears, approximately 50mph).


 
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greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
"" Hg = inches of Mercury. This is the unit of pressure used on mityvac vacuum pumps.

Yes, absolutely if you hook those lines together you'll end up with both an over boost condition as well as a wide open egr valve (didn't think you had the egr functional?).

You need to connect these to the clean side of your air filter otherwise you'll end up with a sticky n75. Some have just ran them with their own dedicated filter. Your choice.
 

rooney77

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Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
Ok, I'll run them to the intake. It still just seems so underpowered compared to the Beetle it used to be in. I know with the tires and gearing and all it wouldn't be fast but still figured I'd be able to do 60 at least.

My EGR valve is still there since I didn't want to have to reprogram the ECU. I have removed and blocked the cooler. It's not bothering me so I didn't see the need to remove it. I did do the off-road only adaptation though.
 

greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
Ok, I'll run them to the intake. It still just seems so underpowered compared to the Beetle it used to be in. I know with the tires and gearing and all it wouldn't be fast but still figured I'd be able to do 60 at least.

My EGR valve is still there since I didn't want to have to reprogram the ECU. I have removed and blocked the cooler. It's not bothering me so I didn't see the need to remove it. I did do the off-road only adaptation though.
Are all the vacuum lines connected on your N18? Have you checked to see how much supply vacuum you have to you N75?
 

rooney77

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
Are all the vacuum lines connected on your N18? Have you checked to see how much supply vacuum you have to you N75?
Yes all the vacuum lines are connected to all 3 solenoids, the asv solenoid (can't remember number), n75 and n18. All new hoses too. I don't have a way to check the vacuum to the n75. My buddy returned the mighty vac he bought.
 

rooney77

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Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
Well, I left the hose between the two disconnected and stole my buddy's MAF off his Jetta....HOLEEEE CRAP! What a difference. So I think I need a new MAF. Just in time too. Just loaded it on the trailer for my first wheeling trip this weekend. :D
 

rooney77

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Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
Texas
TDI
2000 Beetle
So I was thinking I'm gonna need to do my timing belt in the near future. After glancing through the procedure I realized I don't have a way to find TDC since the OE flywheel and bellhousing are long gone. So, how does one go about finding TDC?
 

Growler

Got Soot Vendor
Joined
Nov 24, 2003
Location
Millersport, Ohio
TDI
Schmutz, 2015 Golf Sportwagen DSG & Schnurren, 2001 Golf GL 2 door 5M
#1 stick in the #1 glow plug hole, and eyeball the highest point,

#2 Make your own TDC mark by screwing a solid stop into the #1 glowplug hole, then turning the motor over by hand until it stops, Mark the flywheel, then turning it backwards until it stops again, mark the flywheel, TDC is in the middle.

#3 use the Dots on the end of the Crank pully under the harmonic balancer to line up TDC with the rib that is cast into the center of the Crank seal flange, then double check that your camshaft locking bar will go in, this is usually close enough to TDC for an ALH motor


way #2 is the best way, way #1 is not so bad, way #3 will work in a pinch.
 
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Bczuk

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Joined
May 21, 2012
Location
Mission, BC
TDI
LWB Samurai - 2001 Jetta
I had to use #3 to find my TDC when I reinstalled the head on mine last month.
 
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