TDIMeister
Phd of TDIClub Enthusiast, Moderator at Large
If you decide to pull the head to see what's going on, check the bore taper. But maybe this is one of those instances NOT to be as your screen name suggests.
I know that a tune not set up with a proper pump voltage map for big injection components will light off real quick, with a puff of smoke that you don't get with a 'properly' set up tuneNo plans to pull it apart at this point - I have switched ECU's back/forth and have been able to turn the hard start on/off. I doubt that the tune or ECU changed so there might be some mechanical wear that is making one tune start harder than another whereas this was not the case before. Likely something with the injection pump/injectors maybe?
This led to multiple cracks and breaks in the turbo system before I got it repaired.Fix Until Broke said:If you remember back up in post 503, I found this bolt on my skidplate - broken off my LP turbo mount.
I wanted to do that on the initial installation and agree with your suggestion, however there just isn't any axial room for it the way I have it laid out. I'm not sure I used any straight pieces of pipe - just tee's and ell's.I've started putting bellows into everything that is solidly mounted
the pipe gets hot and expands a bunch
there is a good stiff one near the rear of a first gen rav-4 if you've got a battery powered sawzall and junkyard time
otherwise they're pretty doggone spendy for the thick ones that will last
You answered your own question here. 1k can be a low figure of the depreciation alone in a single year on a newer car and/or the maintenance/repairs of another car of unknown history.1k is a pretty cheap investment to keep it going.
to which I reply, in order:It needs:
- Front strut bearings
- The Koni FSD's are pretty tired (can't believe they haven't rusted through - maybe they have?)
- Front control arm bushings are cracked/torn but not "sloppy" yet
- Rear suspension bushings are similar (and original)
- New Tires + Alignment
- Rear ABS Tone Wheel and Dust Shield
- And about 100 other little things
Thanks for the confirmation - I'm in a bit of a vehicle glut with too many of them that need work/finished/sold/etc - I'll get through it, just need to keep goingTDIMiester said:You answered your own question here. 1k can be a low figure of the depreciation alone in a single year on a newer car and/or the maintenance/repairs of another car of unknown history.
It needs strut bearings else I'll end up breaking a front spring. They don't turn, the spring slides/jumps.to which I reply, in order:
no it doesn't, they're all always bad so it follows that none are ever truly all that bad
tired enough to bounce and rattle going down the road? they're probably fine, wait until they start leaking to give you a reminder that they're rusting through
nope
nope
"new" tires and tape measure toe job
ABS is just a light on the dash that will help illuminate your path from now on
I am finding that I haven't bought a $500 mk4 in a couple years. This is troubling as I do not have nearly enough parts cars to keep me going for the next 30 years. Everyone seems to want 1k or more lately.
I've gotten into the same mindset with my compound golf however. It's spending more time broken than fixed. Next time it breaks it is getting an o2j stuffed back into it with a stock clutch. Torque limit maps set so the clutch lives. Single wastegated turbo somewhere around 50mm inducer so it'll breathe out to 6k.
I sure hope there's not another CFC program coming - that was a disaster if you're into vehicles and restoring/rebuilding things. So many legitimately good cars crushed .turbobrick240 said:I'm with the minimum investment philosophy. There's probably another huge cash for clunkers program in the works, so the old steed may reward you well in the end.
They're all destined for the scrap heap eventually. I've had attachments to vehicles, but once the rust sets in.... money pit.I sure hope there's not another CFC program coming - that was a disaster if you're into vehicles and restoring/rebuilding things. So many legitimately good cars crushed .
Love this philosophy. Lots of crap in life we can't control. Lots of stuff goes sideways. If it gives you joy and causes no harm, do more of it.Once, when I was considering a project, and I start getting pragmatic over the investment versus the return, my wife told me, "Do what makes your heart sing."
Close... 6.6 Duramax + 6L90E. Stock 2.93 gears with 31" tall tires ~1280 RPM at 60 MPH and doesn't even raise an eyebrow at most hills. Stays locked up in 6th, spools the turbo a bit and up the hill it goes. Downshifts way less than the LT1 + 4L60E with 27" tall tires.Those old girls have junk in the trunk for sure. Is a tdi going into the nicer one? I think 30 mpg is overly optimistic if it's just getting taller gears and such.
A 6.5 would have been a lot easier and a lot less expensive for sure, especially if you go pre 93 with full mechanical pump. Turbo swap and set of injectors and you're at 300 wheel HP pretty easy.6.5 swap, humvee takeouts used to be dirt cheap
then you can run it on waste oil and it suddenly doesn't matter that it only gets 20 mpg
stock IDI injectors usually flow quite a lot being that they don't have any atomization holes in them, pintle lift can be pretty easily adjusted "at home"Turbo swap and set of injectors and you're at 300 wheel HP pretty easy.