The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Inside the stock headlights, the reflectors are affixed with a ball and socket setup. Sometimes, these pop apart and nothing is broken.... just reach in the rear and pop them back together, and you’re back to normal.

Coincidentally, I jut sold a stock set of stock lights to someone who had those Depos...

-Todd
It wasn't just popped out... I had it apart several months ago and the ball was actually broken off. Put on some JB Weld but it only lasted for a bit before coming back off.

I get why people may not like the look, but as far as lighting performance goes my stockers have never been this bright. I might even put in some relays later.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
It wasn't just popped out... I had it apart several months ago and the ball was actually broken off. Put on some JB Weld but it only lasted for a bit before coming back off.

I get why people may not like the look, but as far as lighting performance goes my stockers have never been this bright. I might even put in some relays later.
Saw a set of those Depot on a B4 in a JY a couple years back. I thought they looked quite nice for aftermarket. If the passenger side lamp wouldn't have had a broken lens I would have bought them just to have them.

I felt bad, it looked like someone had just casually destroyed it while walking by the car, there was no structural or body damage around the headlight assembly. I've seen the same ridiculous behavior in other JY's over the years where people just walk by a car and break stuff.

Steve
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
. Siphoned the sedan’s power steering reservoir dry, then dumped in 12oz of Lucas power steering sealer. Supposedly, cures noise instantly and it gets decent reviews. I must have turned the rack 30 times and it still sounds the same. I’ll wait and see if it needs some tine...

There’s a money back guarantee, so let’s see if they fight me for my $8.

It’s been about 3 weeks since the Lucas was dumped in. The results weren’t “instant” as advertised, but it eventually worked. I guess it just needed time to marinate the “whatever” was making the noise... I first took notice of the silence around 2PM, yesterday.

From what it was to silence is pretty amazing. I’m now a firm believer of “fixes in a bottle”, and recommend that everyone takes the easy way out....as long as the rack doesn’t start leaking.

-Todd
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Speaking of leaking... Mine is leaking from under the boot on the right. Only option is to buy a new one, isn't it?


I think my NVH-related stalling is cured. Went to take the fuel cutoff solenoid off and the top just wanted to spin. The circular spade broke so I fabricated a standard spade to mate with it and them flame-assisted soldered the two together with 40/60 solder. Car started up after the pump regained prime. Since I've been up for ~30 hrs, I'll test it tomorrow coming home from work.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I’m now a firm believer of “fixes in a bottle”, and recommend that everyone takes the easy way out....

In all seriousness, I don’t see a rack swap being a fun job, then an alignment will also be needed.

Personally, I’d try the Lucas, but YMMV. Your rack is already leaking, so what’s the harm? I wish I spent the $8, prior to spending $55 on a pump and $17 on CHF202, then a few hours for installation, which got me nowhere.

I think they sell a bigger bottle for leaks, or dump 2 of the smaller bottles in.

-Todd
 

turbodieseldyke

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Location
Free Mustache Rides
TDI
98 jetta
I've seen the same ridiculous behavior in other JY's over the years where people just walk by a car and break stuff.
A non-American told me about some resident non-Americans he knew, who would look for MAP sensors in Honda engines. Not for necessity, but to hoard them, for just-in-case. Whenever they found a car with the sensor missing, they would teach the car a lesson by smashing one of its windows.
 

BadMoonRising

Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2018
Location
NJ
TDI
96 Passat Wagon
Finally found a set of used Depo angel eye headlights on a facebook group and got them installed yesterday. Have to say the difference is quite amazing. One of the adjusters has been broken in my stock lamps since I bought the car, then I got into some black ice over the winter and finished off what was left on the driver's side light. I need to do some adjusting on these, but I can tell they are MUCH brighter. I'm very happy with them.



I'm keeping the stock lamps just in case I need them, and will probably try to fix them as best I can. All four mounting points are broken off the driver's side, but I have all the pieces.





[emoji76][emoji76] wow


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
A non-American told me about some resident non-Americans he knew, who would look for MAP sensors in Honda engines. Not for necessity, but to hoard them, for just-in-case. Whenever they found a car with the sensor missing, they would teach the car a lesson by smashing one of its windows.

Doesn't surprise me at all...


Steve
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Finished up a full brake job on the front, pads, rotors and calipers. Now waiting for the parts to do the rear.
You might be in for a treat... the rear caliper mounts are held in with two fine-thread 10mm cap screws. I accidentally stripped one out and had to cut the mount off with a grinder and then drill the bolt out from the back. Be sure you have a long-ish 8mm hex bit socket, preferably without a ball on the end. Maybe grind the ball off if you have to. Maybe yours won't be as seized up as mine were, but it's worth it to have the right-length bit socket on hand.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
It's usually the bottom one that rusts up, at least here in the salt capital of New England.

What I found works is to get the top one out, then put some Vise-Grips on the bottom one and using a prybar, move the caliper bracket mount back and forth. It's a lot easier than trying to free up the bolt. Installed with Never-Seize, the bolts come out like new later on. A set of Bolt-Outs doesn't hurt to have on hand either.

 
Last edited:

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Decided to swap in the rebuilt alternator on the B3V today. Yesterday for some reason the installed alternator didn't want to spin up immediately. Then when it finally did I heard some noise that I wasn't comfortable with.

It didn't make the same noise today and it didn't slip but I wasn't comfortable doing the 350 mile round trip. It may have been a fluke and just because it was in the garage for a 2-3 days but I didn't want to risk losing the alternator like two years ago last Christmas on this trip with the Mk3.

Rebuilt unit performed fine

Steve
 

Jetter_Sprinta

Veteran Member - TDIClub Contributor
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Location
Boston, Massachusetts
TDI
2 Peeps sharing 1 UseYerName//an array of cars
Man...............I've been there




AND there!




Hi again everybody!

Still driving my grey wagon I bought to fix and sell about 10? years ago!

I had to come here to see that somebody is still friving these B4's...I hardly EVER see one. It's not the same....in the old days brother TDI's would actually get a nod...now it's all stonefaced like they don't even realize what they're driving. Oh well...I still love mine!


-s
 
Last edited:

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Replaced a burnt out starter before work today. I had one rebuilt spare. Long story and I still need to rebuild the engine mount bracket.

I’ll be flashing a new tune tonight with a completely redone smoke map to see if that’s allowing me to fuel way beyond what the limiters would imply as a glance. Based on what my tuner said a long while back, this is my guess. Also, the computed AFR, based on the VE measurements I did, interpolated AFRs as low at the 13’s and in high load, high RPM, in the 15’s.

The new AFR/smoke map is setup for nothing lower than 16:1 and max of 22:1. I know it’s not governing the fuel all of the time, but driver’s wish, and torque limiter combined, I’m curiously hoping it fixes my stall issue by going above 4.5V for the quantity adjusted.
 

TDIDaveNH

Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Location
North Conway, NH
TDI
1997 Passat TDI x2 1984 Buick Century 4.3 diesel
Been a while since I posted here, but I've been up to all kinds of repairs in the last month. I tend to let things go or rather 'build up' :rolleyes: then with list in hand, down the car for a few days and get it all done. Last month saw new lower ball joints, new inner & outer tie rods, OEM rack boots new tires and an alignment. Discovered also that one of the tie rods was for a TDI/2.0 and this B4 is a GLX and always has been :eek:



A week ago I put on a new TB, did the 3 front seals, 2 rollers and everything but a new water pump since I could not remember if I did it last time but thought I did. I was about 14K miles overdue on the TB and it was about 70% of the width it should have been with rubber shavings spread all throughout the timing covers. :eek:

The TB will track differently when there is rubber stuck in between the crank sprocket teeth...a wire wheel would not take it all out, some had to be scrapped with a razor then wire wheeled to finish to get it all out. Anyway, it was a lot of clean up work but was nice & clean going back together and tracked well.
This was all in preparation for a road trip out to Ohio which went without a hitch save for a leaking water pump not 500 miles after doing the TB. While doing the TB I noticed a stain running down the front of the oil pan which turned out to be the WP housing to block o-ring and that at least in my mind accounted for the occasional need to add coolant over the last 4 months. Not a big deal. Anyway as the trip went on, the need to add more water grew ever more frequent until in Erie, PA on the way home the WP started just hemorrhaging water out of the deep rectangular weep hole. Any trace of actual coolant at this point was loooooong gone, rest assured.

I was able to put some water weld (made by JB weld...great product btw) to block the water from coming out which seemed to work but later on just before setting out for home again, water started pissing out of the shaft seal. Long story short, I was able to keep adding water enough to get around to Erie and buy tools to do the job at a friends garage down in Edinboro, about 20 minutes south of the city. I had tools with me but not as much as I would need. That took a full day since as we all know you can't just do these types of jobs with just 'tools' they need to be the right combination of compact to ultra compact design. aka dropping the power steering hard return tube as well as a couple other tight spots when you're removing the WP from the front by pulling the alt & moving the AC compressor.

A few hours later I had a new WP on and a nice little collection of 'cheap road tools' that will stay in the car permanently from now on. I was pleased to see the WP had the correct OEM style impeller. I got it at O'Reilly's and it was their 'import direct' line. The one I had on the car was the correct style just cast iron.

Got back from my little road trip 2 days ago and just now am starting to dismantle the engine again to do the WP right this time. I need to replace the block to WP seal and put a new T-stat in and the o-ring as well as a new PS belt tensioner gear. Might as well pop the pump off and upgrade the gasket too while I'm back in there. I hate doing stuff twice but it's really not that bad...it just HAS to be right.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I finally finished putting the side molding trim and the right roof raiil, back on the wagon. It was dropped off from the body shop about 3 weeks ago, and sat. Needed to pull the left fender liner again, because I forgot to seam seal the patc, I welded in.

Did a tape measure alignment, since I swapped the tie rods, weeks ago. Set it to around .125” toe out. Road tested it and it tracked straight, but I need to reclock the wheel a few degrees. I can finally begin driving the car again.... I still need to address the exhaust leak, that I likely caused by lowering the subframe.

Removed the cargo area plastic on the left side to revisit my leak. One mount post pulled out of the trim, on the D pillar plastic, which pissed me off. I can’t get it back in cleanly and I’m not sure if I have a spare...

Couldn’t find the leak using the baby powder method, so I started hosing it down. The leak was coming from above the headliner, and ended up being an incredibly small area the seam sealer didn’t get. After I pulled the headliner down some, I got the air hose in there and saw the breach. Blobbed on some more seam sealer, and the car sits.... I’ll let it set up for a while and retest.

-Todd
 

tbones

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2005
Location
Annapolis, Maryland
TDI
1996 Passat wagon tdi, 1991 Corrado TDI (sold)1983 Vanagon 7pass.GL 1.6td 1982 Westy;THE PHOENIX 1.6na(NOW JX/5speed) my partner's 2014 Jetta Sportwagon 6spd manual AND MY NEW TOY/PROJECT... Sunny, a bright yellow 87 syncro Westy with 1Z TDI motor
Hey gang,

I pulled the windshield out of my 97 sedan that I'm setting up for my son to drive in college. As is often the case some glass "technician " replaced the windshield at sometime previously, and scratch the crap out of the area where the windshield sets… Leading to lots of rust spots. Luckily, there was no rust through, but I did spend the day grinding and sanding. Are use something called corroseal, at the suggestion of a good friend of mine. It's a late text rust converter/primer, let's hope it does something useful in there!

I have the entire headliner out, and I am replacing that at the same time.it was leaking a little bit at the windshield thanks to the rust causing an incomplete seal with the windshield sealant. It also appears there's been a leak at the sunroof area and I'm trying to find that, next.

I'm looking for a new sunroof seal, as the one that's in there is pretty worn. I realize that it doesn't actually seal the sunroof, but while I have access, I figured I'd like to replace it, anyways.

I'm gonna post that in a separate post, but anybody here reading this has a suggestion, please get in touch with me. I'd be happy with an aftermarket piece that's not too expensive, as long as it fits!

Fortunately, I didn't ruin a perfect windshield, it was already messed up, so I'm having a new one installed professionally and I will supervise to make sure he doesn't screw anything else up!

Thanks,

Steve
 

TDIDaveNH

Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Location
North Conway, NH
TDI
1997 Passat TDI x2 1984 Buick Century 4.3 diesel


Replaced both CV shafts, both bearings, one hub on the right side all without breaking alignment. Car would torque steer bad when you had your foot into it, right side bearing was singing and the hub was noticeably worn on the splines. Fixed two broken bolts that hold the lower disc splash guard in place on the left side, ran a diesel purge, polished the headlights and replaced the green o-ring on the vac pump cover since it was leaking. Lastly a new N75 and all new German braided hose just because the old one/hose was 4 years old but had seen just about 200K miles in that time.
 
Last edited:

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Hey gang,

I pulled the windshield out of my 97 sedan that I'm setting up for my son to drive in college. As is often the case some glass "technician " replaced the windshield at sometime previously, and scratch the crap out of the area where the windshield sets… Leading to lots of rust spots. Luckily, there was no rust through, but I did spend the day grinding and sanding. Are use something called corroseal, at the suggestion of a good friend of mine. It's a late text rust converter/primer, let's hope it does something useful in there!

I have the entire headliner out, and I am replacing that at the same time.it was leaking a little bit at the windshield thanks to the rust causing an incomplete seal with the windshield sealant. It also appears there's been a leak at the sunroof area and I'm trying to find that, next.

I'm looking for a new sunroof seal, as the one that's in there is pretty worn. I realize that it doesn't actually seal the sunroof, but while I have access, I figured I'd like to replace it, anyways.

I'm gonna post that in a separate post, but anybody here reading this has a suggestion, please get in touch with me. I'd be happy with an aftermarket piece that's not too expensive, as long as it fits!

Fortunately, I didn't ruin a perfect windshield, it was already messed up, so I'm having a new one installed professionally and I will supervise to make sure he doesn't screw anything else up!

Thanks,

Steve
I've heard others say to be generous with the sealant on the corners because of the curvature.

Steve
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Started yanking the leaking AC system in the sedan. I’ve been topping the system off since I bought the car back in 2014. The condenser was bent in a minor collision and I was able to bend it back, without discharging the system.... it’s where the leak is. Getting pretty bad, so it was time.

Hoses and drier came out easily. The TXV, not so much.

The lower bolt was corroded and the head stripped. Drilled the head off and there was corrosion on the shaft locking it in. Die grinder and a carbide burr freed it. This was the 2nd time, I’ve experienced this.




The compressor will get pulled and drained when I pull the front end off to swap the condenser. Everything will get flushed to metal as time allows.

Changed the oil and fuel filter, too.

-Todd
 

97B4TDi

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
1997 B4 Passat, 2013 Jetta Sportwagen TDI
Filled it up and just had the timing belt, passenger side axle and an oil change done.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Just crossed the 30k mile mark for the B3V tdi conversion put on the road around 5/20/2016. Actually with the ODO discrepancy it's probably closer to 31500 miles...lol.

Aside from a few nuisances it's been very good to drive although there are already a bunch of things on the plate to do this fall/winter.

Steve
 

97B4TDi

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
1997 B4 Passat, 2013 Jetta Sportwagen TDI
Checked my oil and notived the shop that did my oil change way overfilled it. I drained enough to bring it down to the top fill mark.


Than I noticed it has an oil filter that is shorter than I have normally seen/used myself on b4 Passats. Is/will it be alright or do you think I should change the filter to the larger one?
 
Top