Fix option but check engine light is on

skycrane said:

if your able to clear the codes with a generic code scanner, you should be good. I got the "fix" done last friday, and cleared the P0401 from it the morning i dropped it off. 5 days later my CEL just poped up for the P0401. im planning on having them repair it as soon as i get the money in my account from the "fix"

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That was a thought but I wonder if the code is kept on my records at this dealer. Or I get it cleared and drop it at another unaffiliated dealer a little farther away with no knowledge of my problem.

740GLE said:

I think there is another chicken saying you could use here too!
Best of luck, what are you options of just letting them buy you out?

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Rethinking the buyout option. There is also the option of getting a local import shop to fix it, hopefully cheaper and just eat the cost to get the money.

I do not want to have to shell out money for replacing a perfectly good vehicle(less the DPF issue at the moment).

My car went in for the fix today. Back to completely stock tune, exhaust, etc. But still failed their inspection and denied the fix.... My car has aftermarket charge pipes, and a Golf R intercooler. Tech is required to contact VW on case to case basis and told them other things to check. Also missing bracket for the DPF pressure sensor, and the wiring is incorrectly tucked up along the firewall. This just sounds crazy.

skycrane said:

Thats why im waiting till i get the money, then moving it out of the account . hehe but seriously, i am following the letter of the settelemnt, that after the "fix" has been applied that my EGR and DPF are under warrenty for another 54k miles, and i fully intend to hold them to the wording in the settelemnt... hehe

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So I rescheduled my appointed for yesterday. The CEL was clear after the first failed attempt at the fix for many days over many miles and errand running. Over that period I did talk to a local import/tuner shop and he said he would help me out if I needed it. Wouldn't you know it, my CEL came back on again Sunday afternoon for me to drop it off 8AM Monday morning.

I swung by the import shop first thing, they cleared the code and I drove directly to the dealer. Crossed my fingers and I got the service call at 3pm telling me the service is complete! No a mention of anything. Full payment amount was confirmed for $5200+.

They also said that someone else who had the fix done drove off the lot and their transmission failed. It was covered without issue. It seems like you just gotta get over that hump anyway you can.

I also stopped by Wendys and got the guys at the shop $50 in gift cards for hooking me up. Figured it was the least I could do for saving me stupid amounts of money for not charging me at all.

NCTDI2010 said:

They also said that someone else who had the fix done drove off the lot and their transmission failed. It was covered without issue.

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Interesting, since the transmission isn't part of the extended warranty.

I dropped my car off at North Park VW in San Antonio TX yesterday, Sept 18th. I get a call this morning (Sept 19th) and the service guy Jeremy tells me I have codes P2008, P2015, and P2017.
Apparently these are all related to the iM flaps.
Does the bracket from dieselgeek fix all of these codes? Or just the P2015?

They say they can't do the fix until these codes are cleared, they want $915 to replace the IM, I told them NO.

Does anyone know if I can fix this with the DG bracket? If needed I guess I'll just the IM myself though I really don't want to do even that.

DanB36 said:

Interesting, since the transmission isn't part of the extended warranty.

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could have been a "newer" 2015 under the factory warranty..

D-Cup said:

I dropped my car off at North Park VW in San Antonio TX yesterday, Sept 18th. I get a call this morning (Sept 19th) and the service guy Jeremy tells me I have codes P2008, P2015, and P2017.
Apparently these are all related to the iM flaps.
Does the bracket from dieselgeek fix all of these codes? Or just the P2015?

They say they can't do the fix until these codes are cleared, they want $915 to replace the IM, I told them NO.

Does anyone know if I can fix this with the DG bracket? If needed I guess I'll just the IM myself though I really don't want to do even that.

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Dieselgeek bracket primarily fixes P2015, but you could luck out and addresses the others, it's well worth the $68 purchase.

Talked to the folks at dieselgeek. SUPER helpful and they're awesome!
Anyway, I ordered a VCDS from rosstech, should be coming in soon.
I plan on playing with the IM flap motor to see if I can get anywhere, try the bracket, etc.
I've read there's a way to tune out the flap motor completely, but is there a way to clear/tune out these codes that would be acceptable (or not visible) to the dealer tech doing the fix?

I just picked my car up from being fixed yesterday. Started it in the parking light and immediately got a CEL. It was scanned and coming back with the P2015 fault now on my car AFTER the fix. It was not there before, and never have had the issue with my car entire time of ownership. My dealer is unaware of the limitations powertrane warranty and they are supposed to get back to me on what to do.

Huge shoutout to the folks at DieselGeek. Both went above and beyond to help me out.
CEL was on for:
P2008 - was instructed to remove IM flap motor, open and blow out dust etc with compressed air. Did that.
P2015 - installed DG P2015 bracket
P2017 - I was told that code might be from something to do with wiring somewhere, dirty/bent connection, stretched/damaged wire, or something along those lines. I blew both ends of the plug with compressed air like we used to do our Nintendo.

Today, CEL is OFF and I can reschedule my fix and get my $5100.

This is way better than paying the dealer $915 for a new manifold.

Thanks again to Jim and company, and I hope this helps out someone else.

Thanks for posting that, D-Cup. Should help many others down the line.

Stealership not happy with my clearing of CEL

So after clearing CEL as previously mentioned, I give my car to North Park VW of San Antonio for the 2nd time. About 5 hrs later I get a call from the service guy.
"The tech says we can't perform the emissions fix, because even though the CEL is no longer ON, the code is still there. Since the CEL was turned off with a "patch fix" and not a "proper fix" (read: pay them $1000 to replace Intake Manofold), they can't perform the emissions fix."

They want to demand that I pay them $1000 to replace the IM before performing emissions fix, withholding my $5100 in the mean time, WITHOUT a CEL.

Sounds to me like they're making things up for the sake of generating revenue.
But I should be fair, and open minded.
If anyone can explain to me how this is a legit requirement, I'm all ears.

Did the light go off on its own after that work or did you actually use VCDS to clear it and recheck it. Drive it for a few cycles so everything has time to reset?

D-Cup said:

So after clearing CEL as previously mentioned, I give my car to North Park VW of San Antonio for the 2nd time. About 5 hrs later I get a call from the service guy.
"The tech says we can't perform the emissions fix, because even though the CEL is no longer ON, the code is still there. Since the CEL was turned off with a "patch fix" and not a "proper fix" (read: pay them $1000 to replace Intake Manofold), they can't perform the emissions fix."
They want to demand that I pay them $1000 to replace the IM before performing emissions fix, withholding my $5100 in the mean time, WITHOUT a CEL.
Sounds to me like they're making things up for the sake of generating revenue.
But I should be fair, and open minded.
If anyone can explain to me how this is a legit requirement, I'm all ears.

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I learned a few new things through this process on my car that may help you, too...

1) OBD has 3 types of codes that are important here:
Pending codes - these are codes for things that have happened but not frequently enough to turn on the check engine light yet.
Active codes - these will turn on the check engine light and have been verified as actual problems
Permanent codes - these are codes that caused a check engine light but were cleared by a diag tool AND are waiting to be verified they don’t come back. This is to ensure the actual problem(s) causing a code are truly fixed.

2) OBD readiness is another thing scanners can tell you. This tells the dealer and emissions testing that a full drive cycle has happened with no codes coming up — this is to prevent people from clearing codes right before an emissions test.

As far as I can tell, permanent codes will go away when emissions readiness completes AND the underlying problem no longer exists.

So in your case it sounds like there may be pending or permanent codes still in the ecu.

The free code reader you can use at an auto parts store may tell you if you have permanent codes and if emissions readiness is ok.

If everything is actually fixed do a “universal drive cycle” (google it for details) then scan for codes again.

Ideally, if you then have emissions readiness, all pending and permanent codes will either go away on their own OR will tell you something else that needs repaired.

I got tired of going to the auto parts store to get my codes all cleared out and everything fixed so I bought a Carista OBD reader for like $30 (try ECS tuning or amazon). Their app comes with a 30 day full feature mode which was pretty good but after it expired I decided to buy the dashcmd app for $10. Either app shows you codes active, pending, and permanent.

Good luck!

Manifold fix update

UPDATE:
Monday 10/02/2017: I drop off car and they later call as mentioned earlier.

Tuesday 10/03/2017: Service Rep calls and says he's trying to get VW to cover the IM replacement since I did fix it but they're being picky.

Monday: 10/09/2017: Service Rep calls, leaves voicemail. "VW has agreed to cover the intake Manifold replacement, part should be delivered by Tuesday 10/10, and it's possible for work to be completed by end of that day."
I called back and left a message, asked them to put old manifold in the trunk, I'd like to keep it. And definitely want to keep my DG bracket.

Note: I did not use VCDS at all. I was going to, (I bought one) but got excited about CEL turning off and didn't. Stupid. I know. May have had different experience if I had.

On warranty repairs the old part is not yours it is theirs. They may or may not give it to you.

Lightflyer1 said:

On warranty repairs the old part is not yours it is theirs. They may or may not give it to you.

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I will agree with this statement. Warranty parts go on a shelf, till VW says to send them back or junk them. I would see if you can get them to remove your DG bracket.

My car is going back to VW tomorrow for an IM CEL. Difference with mine was that I never had the code at all before I took it in.

Lightflyer1 said:

On warranty repairs the old part is not yours it is theirs. They may or may not give it to you.

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This is tru, but figured it doesn't hurt to ask.
Worst that can happen is they say no.
Best is that I have a spare part to play with.

Leaking FUEL!!!

Picked up my 2010 Jetta TDI today from getting the emissions fix (and the obligatory Intake Manifold replacement).
I get about 10-15miles and smell something. It's fuel.
Look on the engine bay and everything in front of and below the fuel
pump is wet and smells like diesel.

Radiator Fan on the passenger side, wet.
Alternator, wet.
Puddles in the plastic belly pan.

Oddly enough....the engine seemed a bit more peppy. No loss of power, plenty of go.

CJAA engine code, if that makes a difference.

Anyone else have this happen? Anyone? Anyone? Beuler? Anyone?

D-Cup said:

Picked up my 2010 Jetta TDI today from getting the emissions fix

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How many miles on your Cup Edition? I have one also, haven't done anything yet with it as it pertains to the Emissions choices, but I'm seeing so many with fix problems (either getting hit with expensive repairs before the fixes are done for problems they didn't know they had, or post-fix issues like yours. I hate to turn mine in because it is in great condition and runs great - sickens me regarding how high the odds are that something undesirable will surface if I have mine fixed.

I don't know how the injectors interface with the intake manifold, but it sounds like something in the fuel line to the injectors was not reinstalled correctly, or new seals were not installed during reassembly, and you have a resulting fuel leak. Surprised the shop didn't test run your engine to see this before returning it to you.

93celicaconv said:

How many miles on your Cup Edition? I have one also, haven't done anything yet with it as it pertains to the Emissions choices, but I'm seeing so many with fix problems (either getting hit with expensive repairs before the fixes are done for problems they didn't know they had, or post-fix issues like yours. I hate to turn mine in because it is in great condition and runs great - sickens me regarding how high the odds are that something undesirable will surface if I have mine fixed.

I don't know how the injectors interface with the intake manifold, but it sounds like something in the fuel line to the injectors was not reinstalled correctly, or new seals were not installed during reassembly, and you have a resulting fuel leak. Surprised the shop didn't test run your engine to see this before returning it to you.

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I got it back from them with a perfect 162,800mi.
They sent a wrecker to my house to pick it up and haul it back. Got a call a few hours later - loose fuel line. Sounds like some rookie mistake that I would make. But whatever. They corrected that issue, did a test drive and said it was fine, but wanted to keep it overnight to do another test drive in the morning.
Got a call a little bit ago saying second test drive showed everything is good and they will be delivering the car to me later today.

So far (fingers crossed) nothing wrong with the fix itself. It drove as preppy as always. Just a slip-up by whoever was doing the work. Though, I am starting to feel like I need to do a complete survey of the vehicle anytime anyone does anything to it.

You should have had them clean the whole engine bay of the car to rid it of the diesel. It will affect hoses and belts and other rubber parts.

It just keeps going and going and going...

So they delivered my car today...to the wrong address.
(Good thing I didn't go for the "leave the car unlocked with the key inside option)

When the dealer's driver does get the car to my actual house, I say thank you, sorry you had to drive extra, could you pop the hood for me please, and he does. I look around, I start thinking maybe that diesel is eating all the hoses etc. wondering how to clean it off, and then...sniff sniff sniff sniff..."What's that smell?"
Him: "what smell?"
Me: "It smells like something is burning" (somewhere between burning plastic and burning hair)
Him: "Oh..... that's probably the clutch because I'm not used to driving standard."



And that's how the fight started.
(There was no fight, referencing a genre of jokes.)

My clutch feels floppier than Jenna Jamison after a working day, and my brake pedal goes to the floor with little to no stopping action (brakes felt perfect when I drove it yesterday). Can't even pump the brakes to build up pressure. I can pump, but there's no pressure buildup to be had.

Phone calls are getting made. Cheers!

D-Cup said:

My clutch feels floppier than Jenna Jamison after a working day, and my brake pedal goes to the floor with little to no stopping action (brakes felt perfect when I drove it yesterday). Can't even pump the brakes to build up pressure. I can pump, but there's no pressure buildup to be had.
Phone calls are getting made. Cheers!

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Did they also do the ABS system recall while they had your car?

If they need to replace the ABS module they should have bled the brake and clutch hydraulic lines. If they didn’t bleed the lines you’d have air in then which would make the brake pedal (and possibly clutch) very soft.

craigldavis said:

Did they also do the ABS system recall while they had your car?
If they need to replace the ABS module they should have bled the brake and clutch hydraulic lines. If they didn’t bleed the lines you’d have air in then which would make the brake pedal (and possibly clutch) very soft.

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The only thing done to the brakes was they checked the fluid as part of the multipoint inspection done after completing the emissions fix. They said the fluid looked "dirty" and recommended a brake fluid flush. But the brakes felt just as they always did. Firm pedal, quick sporty response. Then overnight it becomes flaccid with no pressure... I've never had any car exhibit that kind of change in that short of a time span or drive cycles.

craigldavis said:

Did they also do the ABS system recall while they had your car?
If they need to replace the ABS module they should have bled the brake and clutch hydraulic lines. If they didn’t bleed the lines you’d have air in then which would make the brake pedal (and possibly clutch) very soft.

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But he would have noticed that on his first drive from the dealer before they took it back to fix the fuel leak.

Sounds like more were messed up after they fixed the fuel leak.

When it rains it pours.

NCTDI2010 said:

I swung by the import shop first thing, they cleared the code and I drove directly to the dealer. Crossed my fingers and I got the service call at 3pm telling me the service is complete! No a mention of anything. Full payment amount was confirmed for $5200+.

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Happy for you! I just got my emissions modification completed. I've been driving with a P0401 code intermittently coming on for about 1.5 years. Was worried about just clearing it because it appeared to come back more quickly.

So, I took it in to a shop to change the EGR filter, which I read on here usually makes the P0401 code go away for about 6 months (assuming the root cause is a cracked DPF). They changed the EGR filter, reset the codes, and cleaned the tailpipe very well, removing all soot.

VW didn't notice anything, and it went off without a hitch. So happy they didn't try to slap me with an expensive out-of-pocket fix before they could do the emissions modification.

Now I'm just waiting for the P0401 code to reappear so I can take it into the dealership and have them replace the DPF for free under the new warranty