MN Chat Thread

Scangauge has some bad units, they sent me a new head unit last year, and it worked fine.

Went to Nassau Bahamas, nice there. Too bad I missed the GTG. Have to give a shout out to Deafbug, Congrats on getting married!

Later

Thanks, Bud.

MN Mike,

Here's some rims

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/pts/1017022083.html

There is some 14" tear drops on sale by a different person as well for the guy with the 97 passat, not sure if those fit, but might

I'd shop around for your body parts, John's, AAA, Pam's...

If you're replacing the mirrors, I recommend going with blued ones...maybe even ashperical.

Leak at the oil cooler is just a couple of o-rings. Messy but easy job.

I would go for a skidplate from one of the club vendors. Cheaper than the OEM plastic replacement and much more durable.

Buy your battery from the dealer...actually cheaper than the aftermarket options I could find (that meet specs).

You should be able to find an OEM light switch for cheap that can control your fogs.

Good luck and let me know if you need some help.

Thanks for thinking of me Sam. I did find some on craigslist already.

If you need more part's, I know a place, where you can see 6-4 mk4 vw for parthing out. I am not part in this business, jusl let you know.

Sharp auto part's 800-737-9503

Anybody close to Saint Cloud want to do the rear brakes on my daughter's car? She has rotors, pads, and replacement rotor retainer screws. PM me if you can do it for her with phone number and she will call you.

I am too far away to do it for her. Oh 2002 2.0 too slow but same brakes as my Rocket Chipped 2002.

Sorry that I"m unable to do it Chris. That beer woulda been mighty good.

Chris, I can do the brakes but my timing is bad right now so I am not sure when I can. Assuming the job is the same as the TDI and I am sure it is since the Bentley manual doesn't say otherwise. Email me if you have more questions.

TDICADDGUY said:

Sorry that I"m unable to do it Chris. That beer woulda been mighty good.

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Fear not, the next time I am in Saint Cloud I will bring some Flying Dog over and have you drive my car. Of course you will curse me for letting you drive my car as you will want to chip your car right away?

TDICADDGUY said:

Sorry that I"m unable to do it Chris. That beer woulda been mighty good.

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Fear not, the next time I am in Saint Cloud I will bring some Flying Dog over and have you drive my car. Of course you will curse me for letting you drive my car as you will want to chip your car right away?

DeafBug said:

Chris, I can do the brakes but my timing is bad right now so I am not sure when I can. Assuming the job is the same as the TDI and I am sure it is since the Bentley manual doesn't say otherwise. Email me if you have more questions.

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Brad email me at chris_idzerda@yahoo.com as I cannot seem to find your email address. Good to see that your life is going much better now, so is mine!

Anybody know where I can get a good deal on shocks and struts? Just something close to original or maybe a little better. I assume I can install them myself...

DeafBug said:

Chris, I can do the brakes but my timing is bad right now so I am not sure when I can. Assuming the job is the same as the TDI and I am sure it is since the Bentley manual doesn't say otherwise. Email me if you have more questions.

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Brad, the job for brakes on jetta, golf, beetle are all the same, other then that some of them have bigger or smaller brakes. So you will be fine with doing the job as it was on your tdi.

DeafBug said:

Chris, I can do the brakes but my timing is bad right now so I am not sure when I can. Assuming the job is the same as the TDI and I am sure it is since the Bentley manual doesn't say otherwise. Email me if you have more questions.

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Ah Greengeeker (Nick) did them this morning for her. Metal to metal on the passenger side, probably will need a bearing soon now.

Minnesota Mike said:

Anybody know where I can get a good deal on shocks and struts? Just something close to original or maybe a little better. I assume I can install them myself...

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Here's a pretty darn good deal Mike: http://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?categoryId=33&productId=280

It's involved but you can do it provided you have the right tools and you are careful.

I still need to do my shocks. I ordered them last Fall but then got so busy. Looking to do them in a month or two. I did them in the last Bug I had. I can do it again.

Mike, if you want, come up here when the weather warms up. unless you are riding around like a buggy clown car.

Curious Chris said:

Brad email me at chris_idzerda@yahoo.com as I cannot seem to find your email address. Good to see that your life is going much better now, so is mine!

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My addy has been the same since. it is at gmail.com. I guess you can figure out the user name.

Thanks for the good deal. I'll go ahead and order them....Brad, would it be ok to drive it all the way back to Faribault without the front end being aligned?

Minnesota Mike said:

Thanks for the good deal. I'll go ahead and order them....Brad, would it be ok to drive it all the way back to Faribault without the front end being aligned?

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It'll be fine. I did a complete suspension change-out on my car; shocks, struts, springs and added a Metalnerd 2" lift back in November. Car still tracks straight and true, no abnormal tire wear after several thousand miles. I still have to get it aligned, had it in to a shop to get it done, they got it up the rack and said the tie-rods were too worn to give an accurate alignment. I thought they had a bit of play but didn't think it was all that bad. The shop I had it at quoted me $650 for the inner tie-rods...highway robbery. I said no thanks, took my ball and went home. I just haven't gotten around to doing the job yet.

TDICADDGUY said:

The shop I had it at quoted me $650 for the inner tie-rods...highway robbery. I said no thanks, took my ball and went home. I just haven't gotten around to doing the job yet.

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You kidding me right? $650 for what? max of 1.5hrs of labor with proper tools, the tie rods assembly at dealer $100 a piece. So $200 in parts + 1.5hrs * $100 (dealer) = $350 plus tax, also alignment lets say $50 so your at max of $400 for replacement of both tie rod assemblies.

Just looked at the estimate they gave me, I was off a little bit but still way too expensive. Peter has the complete tie-rod assemblies for $48/ea. I intend to rent/buy the tool and do it myself, then let them align it.

Alignment - $59.95
Inner tie-rod - $106.50 (2) = $213.00
Outer tie-rod - $32.50 (2) = $65.00
Install - 3 hours @ $80/hr = $240
Shop supplies - $3.00
$20 discount for any service over $100 - (-$20)

Grand total w/tax = $580.41

TDICADDGUY said:

Just looked at the estimate they gave me, I was off a little bit but still way too expensive. Peter has the complete tie-rod assemblies for $48/ea. I intend to rent/buy the tool and do it myself, then let them align it.

Alignment - $59.95
Inner tie-rod - $106.50 (2) = $213.00
Outer tie-rod - $32.50 (2) = $65.00
Install - 3 hours @ $80/hr = $240
Shop supplies - $3.00
$20 discount for any service over $100 - (-$20)

Grand total w/tax = $580.41

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Thats way too much. I had customer went to dealer and bought whole tie rod assembly (inner & outer) at dealer for $100, i told him that I could have got it for less then half of that price. The labor is like hour with special tools for driver side and for passenger much easier.

Get your IP fixed yet Alex? How bad was the damage ($$$)?

TDICADDGUY said:

Get your IP fixed yet Alex? How bad was the damage ($$$)?

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Well yes and no. I got new chinese IP head it was only $130 plus shipping. Got it installed but can't get engine to fire up, fuel flows to injectors but not enough pressure to pop injector at cranking speed.

I managed to get car started by towing it around then putting in second or third gear and get RPM's to atleast 2k. Then it would fire up and you can drive as long as I keep RPM's over 2k. I drove it like that for about 10 miles reving it up when slowing down or stoping.

Now not sure what exactly could be causing those symptoms. If its bad head or some electrical problem like ECU cutting fuel off at idle speed. The strange thing there are no codes so can't be electrical or ECU. So at this point kind clueles on what to do next. Maybe take apart then put back together and see if it will work.

If you need a good loaner core or a good reman Losha, I'll use my discount for you. Sounds like the sucking end of the pump is worn out. My car would crank forever till it had enough to pop open the injectors.

Hi all,

I was hoping to get some feedback on purchasing a new Jetta. With the tax credit, stimulus deduction, and $500 loyalty discount, I think it's time. I'm here in the Twin Cities and have started look locally. A quick internet searched yielded about 140 TDI sedans at the 3 major dealers so I think I'm in pretty good shape. What I'd like to know is anyone else out there looking to buy new or have you recently purchased one? I've already got one dealer down to invoice but I think I can do a little better given the local inventory. They did nickel and dime my 2000 Jetta TDI (e.g., broken glove box hinge, cracked inner fender liner) and I'm going to fix all that whether I trade it in or try and sell it on the open market.

Any advice from people would be greatly appreciated. As it's a buyer's market, I'd love to know what other people are doing and paying relative to invoice.

Oh, if you're interested in a 2000 that's been well taken care of, send me a PM!

lcornice said:

Any advice from people would be greatly appreciated. As it's a buyer's market, I'd love to know what other people are doing and paying relative to invoice.

Oh, if you're interested in a 2000 that's been well taken care of, send me a PM!

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Because it's a buyer's market, I'd suggest not trading in your 2000 Jetta, but keeping it for at least a few months to see if demand for used TDIs picks up. I'm not suggesting that we will see anything like the panic buying that happened in the spring of 2006 and 2007 -- and last year too, but that was an anomaly all around.

But if fuel prices and especially gasoline prices should rise in the spring, and consumers are starting to get back into the car-buying mode, then used TDIs should go up in price from where they are today.

So, buy the new Jetta TDI now, because you probably won't find a better deal. But wait to sell the old one until late spring or summer, because you might get a higher price then.

Where do you fill up?

hi everyone,

been lurking for a while and just got a pretty good deal on a used 06 NB. i was wondering where everyone likes to fill up around the mpls area. based on other threads, it looks like BP and Shell are supposed to have good fuel but i thought i'd check around to see what everyone thought.

looking forward to a few hunderd k miles on this thing...or at least my wife will once she learns how to drive a manual. it has 30k right now so it's practically new. we're new to TDIs but have a 93 passat gasser (160k) and a couple of friends have owned TDIs for a while so we aren't that green. still, this place is a great resource and i'm hoping to make the next gtg, whenever that will be.

b