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Old May 19th, 2020, 12:14   #1
Trakpak
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Location: connecticut
Default Timing belt this weekend!!

Ok guys I finally ordered the timing belt kit and tools from Id parts. Iím gonna spend the next few days reading up on it so this goes as smooth as possible as Iíve never done it before. Any tips or tricks before I dive in? Thanks!

2003 golf tdi 5 speed 196k miles
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69 charger r/t se 4 speed Dana 60 4.10s too much to list
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Old May 19th, 2020, 13:29   #2
BobnOH
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Read thru the instructions twice. Forget all prior knowledge of gas engines with marks, it's different. Take care with the process for the motor mounts, seems to be what gives most some trouble.
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Old May 19th, 2020, 15:18   #3
eddieleephd
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Before installing the belt make sure the IP pulley is centered and the bolts are snug. As you put the belt on loosen the bolts and turn the pulley so it slips into the tooth of the belt. Make sure you set the tensioner before tightening the IP bolts and torquing the cam flywheel.
Those seem to be the parts people mess up the most.

As stated before read the how to twice, then read it again and print it out so it's handy.
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'02 1.8t Jetta Wagon Alh w/5spd swap, SB 21#SM DD, bew lift pump, 11mm IP, VNT17, Malone stage4 tune, 2.5"cat back st. pipe,Vr6 brakes, 2" lift, Panzer, Bilstein HD, Bosio DLC 1019's PD_fuel_delivery TDI Search Plug release tool Howto terminal release tools VW/Audi
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Old May 19th, 2020, 18:12   #4
Trakpak
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How does this walk through look?

https://howtune.com/articles/96-repl...jetta-tdi-mkiv
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03 tdi golf 2 door 5 speed 192k Jetta nose
16 challenger hellcat 6 speed plum crazy purple
69 charger r/t se 4 speed Dana 60 4.10s too much to list
06 ram 1500 qc boss v-plow, handful of mods
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Old May 19th, 2020, 18:15   #5
eddieleephd
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Like you got the wrong one, or maybe not the one I use, try this and compare them. Then print this one for the job.
http://www.tdiclub.com/articles/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf

And search here from now on.
https://cse.google.com/cse?q=+&cx=01...44:_idbzjdyxdm

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
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'02 1.8t Jetta Wagon Alh w/5spd swap, SB 21#SM DD, bew lift pump, 11mm IP, VNT17, Malone stage4 tune, 2.5"cat back st. pipe,Vr6 brakes, 2" lift, Panzer, Bilstein HD, Bosio DLC 1019's PD_fuel_delivery TDI Search Plug release tool Howto terminal release tools VW/Audi

Last edited by eddieleephd; May 19th, 2020 at 18:22.
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Old May 19th, 2020, 18:30   #6
eddieleephd
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Quick read through of the first part to where he installs the engine support I notice two big things that are important.
At least one I believe is important, disconnect the down pipe from the turbo before installing the engine support. Otherwise, you will damage the stainless flex. All me how I know.
Second, new bolts are not mentioned, nor sitting on the table in the picture. They are one time use bolts.
Continuing to read, lock the crank before releasing the tensioner and pin the IP.
Reading on I see why he didn't install the crank lock before. If you intend to replace the crank seal I recommend breaking the crank bolt loose before taking anything apart. Put a breaker bar on a 12 point socket and wedge it against the ground then bump the starter. Remove the wire to the shut off solenoid before hand to prevent it from starting.
He doesn't loosen the IP and turn it to the right when he installs the TB however he does have the pump centered, not sure if he mentions it. If you don't do this it'll often throw the pump of a tooth and mess with timing adjusting. That's been my experience anyhow.

Overall, not a bad write up and very similar to the PDF I posted above. They both leave out the IP pulley turning part and centering it before installing the TB is left out of the PDF.
I like having the PDF on hand when doing it. Yes even though I've done it before. How long it takes to put 100kmi on a car leaves a lot to be remembered, and small things are easily forgotten.

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'02 1.8t Jetta Wagon Alh w/5spd swap, SB 21#SM DD, bew lift pump, 11mm IP, VNT17, Malone stage4 tune, 2.5"cat back st. pipe,Vr6 brakes, 2" lift, Panzer, Bilstein HD, Bosio DLC 1019's PD_fuel_delivery TDI Search Plug release tool Howto terminal release tools VW/Audi

Last edited by eddieleephd; May 19th, 2020 at 18:50.
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Old May 19th, 2020, 20:22   #7
Trakpak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieleephd View Post
Quick read through of the first part to where he installs the engine support I notice two big things that are important.
At least one I believe is important, disconnect the down pipe from the turbo before installing the engine support. Otherwise, you will damage the stainless flex. All me how I know.
Second, new bolts are not mentioned, nor sitting on the table in the picture. They are one time use bolts.
Continuing to read, lock the crank before releasing the tensioner and pin the IP.
Reading on I see why he didn't install the crank lock before. If you intend to replace the crank seal I recommend breaking the crank bolt loose before taking anything apart. Put a breaker bar on a 12 point socket and wedge it against the ground then bump the starter. Remove the wire to the shut off solenoid before hand to prevent it from starting.
He doesn't loosen the IP and turn it to the right when he installs the TB however he does have the pump centered, not sure if he mentions it. If you don't do this it'll often throw the pump of a tooth and mess with timing adjusting. That's been my experience anyhow.
Overall, not a bad write up and very similar to the PDF I posted above. They both leave out the IP pulley turning part and centering it before installing the TB is left out of the PDF.
I like having the PDF on hand when doing it. Yes even though I've done it before. How long it takes to put 100kmi on a car leaves a lot to be remembered, and small things are easily forgotten.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Good stuff thank you! Hopefully this goes at least decent. This car seems to fight me. Although I got the ac fixed smoothly.
__________________
03 tdi golf 2 door 5 speed 192k Jetta nose
16 challenger hellcat 6 speed plum crazy purple
69 charger r/t se 4 speed Dana 60 4.10s too much to list
06 ram 1500 qc boss v-plow, handful of mods
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Old May 20th, 2020, 04:04   #8
eddieleephd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trakpak View Post
Good stuff thank you! Hopefully this goes at least decent. This car seems to fight me. Although I got the ac fixed smoothly.
She's not fighting you, she wants you to show her you'll take care of her.
And it's a VW so they can be finicky, but once you get her right, she'll test you well.

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'02 1.8t Jetta Wagon Alh w/5spd swap, SB 21#SM DD, bew lift pump, 11mm IP, VNT17, Malone stage4 tune, 2.5"cat back st. pipe,Vr6 brakes, 2" lift, Panzer, Bilstein HD, Bosio DLC 1019's PD_fuel_delivery TDI Search Plug release tool Howto terminal release tools VW/Audi
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Old May 20th, 2020, 09:08   #9
rhinorear
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Subded. Thanks!
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Old May 20th, 2020, 09:55   #10
jokila
 
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Fuel Economy: 52/45/40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieleephd View Post
Like you got the wrong one, or maybe not the one I use, try this and compare them. Then print this one for the job.
http://www.tdiclub.com/articles/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf

And search here from now on.
https://cse.google.com/cse?q=+&cx=01...44:_idbzjdyxdm

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
Here it the tdiclub version of the how to.

As far as the one you posted, it's good, but here are some things I noted.


Step 9 - You only need to remove the pancake hose from the intercooler side, not both.

Step 17 - Engine support brace. From my experience, and I have done about 50 of them and I am not a mechanic doing this as a job, you will find it waaay easier to use the hydraulic jack with a piece of 2x4 to lift and lower the engine from the oil pan. The pan will support the weight if spread out like that.

Plus, turning those big screws on the brace creates dust/metal particles from the wear between the nut and washer that aim for the cam and liters. Yeah. no bueno.

Step 22 - You will want to remove the harmonic pulley off first before dealing with bracket. I take the pulley and belt covers while the bracket is still on. I don't usually remove the bracket out entirely; it just sits down and mostly out of the way.

I would have an extractor kit ready during this phase. I find these bolts are often overtorqued and can be difficult to get off. Usually there is the one bolt that refuses to budge.

Step 32 - Water pump removal. It didn't go into any detail on removal, but i would recommend you back out the three 10 mm bolts about halfway. Then use a slightly angled pry bar to pry up on the pully using the bolt heads as the fulcrum point. Just work your way around and it will walk out of the bore. Have a catch pan because there will be more water spilling.

Step 34 - Inspect the surface of the water pulley hole. I use scotchbrite to clean up the surface. Often there is the blank residue of previous orings, and god forbid, any RTV. You don't use sealant on this.

Step 37 - Crankshaft seal - this is not part of a timing belt service.

Step 40
- Camshaft seal - Nothing was even said on how to. It's not anything like doing the crankshaft seal.
1) Remove the end camshaft cap by carefully removing the two 13mm nuts.
2) tap and pry up the cap evenly off the studs.
3) Push out the seal
4) clean the nose of the camshaft of any oil
5) If are using a conventional seal lightly lubricate the camshaft part where the seal will go. If you are using a teflon seal, don't lubricate it and install it using the plastic tool that comes with it.
6) Install cap and torque nuts to 15ft lbs.

Step 41 - Don't install the two small rollers just yet. You can do this after the belt is on, but prior to getting the tension set.

Step 48 - The how to never mentions the tensioner tab should go in the square hold behind it. Failure to do that can cause the tensioner to lose its ability to tension AND worse, it will not be able to apply the correct tension.

Step 49 - The consensus is to torque this to 38ft lbs nowadays. The cam can handle it and it will ensure no slippage.

Step 50 - before you install the vacuum pump you will want to do the steps in Step 51 first because you will need to have the pump off to actually put the cam plate back on to see if you have everything aligned correctly.


Step 53
- I have never tried to put the mount back in after I have all of the belt done. I have had it sort of in place but not in the way while I tension everything up.
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Last edited by jokila; May 20th, 2020 at 09:59.
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Old May 21st, 2020, 19:48   #11
Trakpak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokila View Post
Here it the tdiclub version of the how to.

As far as the one you posted, it's good, but here are some things I noted.


Step 9 - You only need to remove the pancake hose from the intercooler side, not both.

Step 17 - Engine support brace. From my experience, and I have done about 50 of them and I am not a mechanic doing this as a job, you will find it waaay easier to use the hydraulic jack with a piece of 2x4 to lift and lower the engine from the oil pan. The pan will support the weight if spread out like that.

Plus, turning those big screws on the brace creates dust/metal particles from the wear between the nut and washer that aim for the cam and liters. Yeah. no bueno.

Step 22 - You will want to remove the harmonic pulley off first before dealing with bracket. I take the pulley and belt covers while the bracket is still on. I don't usually remove the bracket out entirely; it just sits down and mostly out of the way.

I would have an extractor kit ready during this phase. I find these bolts are often overtorqued and can be difficult to get off. Usually there is the one bolt that refuses to budge.

Step 32 - Water pump removal. It didn't go into any detail on removal, but i would recommend you back out the three 10 mm bolts about halfway. Then use a slightly angled pry bar to pry up on the pully using the bolt heads as the fulcrum point. Just work your way around and it will walk out of the bore. Have a catch pan because there will be more water spilling.

Step 34 - Inspect the surface of the water pulley hole. I use scotchbrite to clean up the surface. Often there is the blank residue of previous orings, and god forbid, any RTV. You don't use sealant on this.

Step 37 - Crankshaft seal - this is not part of a timing belt service.

Step 40
- Camshaft seal - Nothing was even said on how to. It's not anything like doing the crankshaft seal.
1) Remove the end camshaft cap by carefully removing the two 13mm nuts.
2) tap and pry up the cap evenly off the studs.
3) Push out the seal
4) clean the nose of the camshaft of any oil
5) If are using a conventional seal lightly lubricate the camshaft part where the seal will go. If you are using a teflon seal, don't lubricate it and install it using the plastic tool that comes with it.
6) Install cap and torque nuts to 15ft lbs.

Step 41 - Don't install the two small rollers just yet. You can do this after the belt is on, but prior to getting the tension set.

Step 48 - The how to never mentions the tensioner tab should go in the square hold behind it. Failure to do that can cause the tensioner to lose its ability to tension AND worse, it will not be able to apply the correct tension.

Step 49 - The consensus is to torque this to 38ft lbs nowadays. The cam can handle it and it will ensure no slippage.

Step 50 - before you install the vacuum pump you will want to do the steps in Step 51 first because you will need to have the pump off to actually put the cam plate back on to see if you have everything aligned correctly.


Step 53
- I have never tried to put the mount back in after I have all of the belt done. I have had it sort of in place but not in the way while I tension everything up.

Wow 50! I watched some videos tonight. I feel a lot better about doing it now. I know this is going to sound like Iím a moron but Iím gonna ask anyway. When I was having turbo issues when I bought the car I was trying to take the pancake tube off. I do t know if it had factory clamps or if their something else but for the life of me I couldnít get them off to get the tube off. Itís not like Iím not mechanical but I actually gave up on it last time I tried. Maybe I was frustrated beyond the point Iím not sure but is their anything Iím missing?
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03 tdi golf 2 door 5 speed 192k Jetta nose
16 challenger hellcat 6 speed plum crazy purple
69 charger r/t se 4 speed Dana 60 4.10s too much to list
06 ram 1500 qc boss v-plow, handful of mods
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Old May 21st, 2020, 19:48   #12
Trakpak
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My parts are supposed to be in tomorrow so I think after work I’m gonna hit it. Probably be a long night.
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03 tdi golf 2 door 5 speed 192k Jetta nose
16 challenger hellcat 6 speed plum crazy purple
69 charger r/t se 4 speed Dana 60 4.10s too much to list
06 ram 1500 qc boss v-plow, handful of mods
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Old May 21st, 2020, 23:06   #13
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Lol, it's perfectly normal to have difficulties the first time. At the end there's a metal clip holding it to the hose. You have to find the void and use a screwdriver to pull it out until it lets go. Should stay about half way out and it lets go real easy.

I don't recommend making a long night of it. Take it apart to the point you're about to take the timing belt apart and come back fresher in the morning.
Trust me, you're better off with a fresh mind.

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'02 1.8t Jetta Wagon Alh w/5spd swap, SB 21#SM DD, bew lift pump, 11mm IP, VNT17, Malone stage4 tune, 2.5"cat back st. pipe,Vr6 brakes, 2" lift, Panzer, Bilstein HD, Bosio DLC 1019's PD_fuel_delivery TDI Search Plug release tool Howto terminal release tools VW/Audi

Last edited by eddieleephd; May 21st, 2020 at 23:10.
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Old May 22nd, 2020, 03:58   #14
Trakpak
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Sounds good hopefully it dosent take me forever. I’ll be happy if the car starts though hahaha.
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03 tdi golf 2 door 5 speed 192k Jetta nose
16 challenger hellcat 6 speed plum crazy purple
69 charger r/t se 4 speed Dana 60 4.10s too much to list
06 ram 1500 qc boss v-plow, handful of mods
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Old May 22nd, 2020, 04:53   #15
eddieleephd
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It's better if you don't rush, especially the first time, and follow the how to.

And another thing is not to torque the bolts until they're all in, other than the water pump.

Boost pipe showing clip

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pr...KXFWwIBL-8qY-H

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