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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old May 1st, 2020, 16:46   #121
Powder Hound
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Got the shift boot placed yesterday. Today I checked the parking brakes. They work perfectly. Not dragging at all when they're released. I guess I was just assuming the worst when it didn't seem to work the way I wanted at first.

The headliner is giving up entirely. I haven't ripped it all out, but since the urethane foam it is glued with has degraded to dust, or will be dust as soon as you do anything (like touch it), I have rolled it up toward the front to keep it out of the way as it releases from the hard part of the headliner.

At some point I'll need to pull it all apart, remove it from the cab, and then I'll be able to clean it up without loading the interior with ugly brown slightly gooey dust. I will need to find a fabric store that is actually open. Here in NH they just announced that they want everyone to continue to stay at home for the rest of May. So a lot of stores are closed. But some (besides grocery and FLAP stores) are open, so maybe I can find one since they're letting a few businesses open up with covid rules to keep us from making each other sick. I'll hope it all goes well.

Anyway, the end result is that driveability is at 100%* for all intents and purposes. The only other thing it will need in the near future is some suspension work, but that can be ignored for now since it isn't critical. Yay!

Cheers,

PH

*That is, 100% for driveability. I still have the exterior tailgate adjustment and other body work to do!
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Last edited by Powder Hound; May 2nd, 2020 at 04:31.
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Old May 3rd, 2020, 23:20   #122
ItAintRodKnock
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Cant wait to read the whole thread and consider doing this myself.
Would you mind sharing the complete build cost?
Looks really well done!

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Old May 4th, 2020, 04:41   #123
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Build cost: Well, I'll start out with the big stuff and fill in details as they occur to me. That means I'll edit this post over the next few weeks.

1) cost of the Jetta: $2500. Woulda-coulda-shouldas omitted here - they're in the thread. And the cost of this is variable anyway, so the number doesn't really count, does it?

2) kit: $3500. It's several hundred $$ cheaper right now, so jump on it now if you have the funds and desire. There was no shipping for me as I drove there and picked up the kit myself.

3) tools: Borrowed the ones I didn't already have. Specifically purchased were a rivet gun $20 (but used the borrowed pneumatic gun almost exclusively), and I'll add more as they occur. If you can't borrow one then you'll really REALLY want a sawsall or something equivalent. And make sure you have extra blades as even though the metal in the chassis cuts readily enough, trimming the fiberglass eats blades alive. Seriously, it is amazing. I actually used a small jigsaw for the fiberglass, but you'll still need multiple blades.

4) supplies: Here there are things like sandpaper, various blades, drill bits, silicone RTV, super-duper urethane sealant/adhesive, body filler ('metal glaze'), really heavy body filler ('tiger hair'), extra rivets, thread tap kit, anti-corrosion paint (POR as well as a zinc paint), masking tape, markers, and that kind of stuff. The list gets pretty long. About $400, I think. I hope that's a reasonable estimate, but there's no guarantee. I spent about $350 on paint which has not yet been applied, but that's your choice. Good paint jobs can run more than $2500, unless your brother does it for the cost of paint only which would reduce the price to $6-700 for good automotive paint. And that's for stock type colors. Seriously, if you've checked that stuff lately it is getting out of control.

5) Mechanical stuff - I'm leaving this out because it isn't really part of the kit build per se. It is directly relevant to the base car condition, and on that I stepped in more than 1 very large and deep cow pie, which you can read about (i.e. turbocharger and gearbox).

I also spent about $80 on sound deadening material not yet applied as the interior hasn't been a main area of concentration yet. I'll also be looking for some material for a new headliner if I can find a fabric store that's open. We'll see. That little part will be $15-20 for the cloth and at least $10 for the spray adhesive.

Recovery of cost due to selling take-off stuff: $0.

There's probably more trunk lids and rear doors available than you can shake a stick at. They weren't in high demand anyway, so. And those side curtain air bags: you can't really ship them unless you put a jumper across the contacts. But if any shipping company finds out what is in the box, they'll send you right back out the door with it, jumper or not. They just won't, and who can blame them? Besides, if someone has a chassis with a side curtain air bag that's exploded on them, chances are really good that the chassis is only a parts collection anyway, so they're not going to want yours.

So, it is looking like $4000 over and above the starter car chassis and paint. So far.

Cheers,

PH
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Last edited by Powder Hound; May 4th, 2020 at 04:44.
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Old May 14th, 2020, 18:44   #124
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I added a new head unit. Basically it was the cheapest Dual that Crutchfield had. I just used the existing OEM speakers, not wanting to spend a bunch. I didn't even bother hooking up the antenna, since radio around here is really spotty at best, and I only wanted something I could plug a thumb drive into and listen to my play list. There's about 3000 songs on one drive, so I think it will last me a while before it repeats.

Anyway, the only real problem was that the adapter for the wires is a little bulky. So I had a bit of hassle trying to arrange the cables in the back so that the new unit would slide into place. Thing is, the plug on the new unit is on the opposite side as the OEM unit, so I had to slide them to the other side since I didn't really want to disassemble the dash to the radio cage. It took a while since I could only fit one hand down the slot at a time. But, in the end, mission accomplished and now it isn't so quiet in the cab. Not that is is quite right now anyway, since there is at least one air leak I haven't found that lets outside noise in.

Cheers!

PH
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Old May 16th, 2020, 16:40   #125
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Oh, and there's a 2002 factory OEM head unit for anyone who wants to pay the s&h. Sorry, I don't have the unlock code. And I'm not the one who mangled the right side so that the faceplate has separated itself. It still looks correct. I don't know about the function. It turned on, but that's all I did.

There's also a hockey puck (aka CCV device, or PCV if it was a gasser) at the same deal. This one has nice hoses, but the 3rd little locator sprig is gone.

A spare CCV heater is available as well, for the same deal. I can't say I've ever heard of anyone wanting/needing one of these, but you never know.

Cheers,

PH
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It is called dope because it does make you dumb.
Thinking outside the box is difficult for some. They're afraid they'll fall off the edge of the box and be lost to oblivion.

Last edited by Powder Hound; May 16th, 2020 at 16:42.
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Old May 23rd, 2020, 18:28   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder Hound View Post
Got the shift boot placed yesterday. Today I checked the parking brakes. They work perfectly. Not dragging at all when they're released. I guess I was just assuming the worst when it didn't seem to work the way I wanted at first.

The headliner is giving up entirely. I haven't ripped it all out, but since the urethane foam it is glued with has degraded to dust, or will be dust as soon as you do anything (like touch it), I have rolled it up toward the front to keep it out of the way as it releases from the hard part of the headliner.

At some point I'll need to pull it all apart, remove it from the cab, and then I'll be able to clean it up without loading the interior with ugly brown slightly gooey dust. I will need to find a fabric store that is actually open. Here in NH they just announced that they want everyone to continue to stay at home for the rest of May. So a lot of stores are closed. But some (besides grocery and FLAP stores) are open, so maybe I can find one since they're letting a few businesses open up with covid rules to keep us from making each other sick. I'll hope it all goes well.
I redid my headliner and pillars with fabric and glue from https://www.grahamfabrics.com/headli...bric-and-kits/. I am sure I could have done it cheaper, but this fabric comes with the thin foam backing that gives a decent texture and sound deadening. I went with a charcoal microfiber, and it turned out decent. A normal, stretchy headliner fabric will be easier to install and look better. I will post pics on my thread soon.

On a side note, are you going with a 3rd brake light and, if so, what are you going with?
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Old May 23rd, 2020, 19:34   #127
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I left the wires for the 3rd brake light, and I kept the original, so that is all available. I haven't made a decision. It's going to require some fabrication, and I just don't have the energy to do that right now.

In the meantime I haven't fixed my tailgate yet!! Maybe Monday.

Have a great weekend everyone!

Cheers,

PH
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Old June 25th, 2020, 16:38   #128
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Default Day 78

A short day; just an hour or so.

I decided to start the adjustment on the tailgate. First, the problem:



There's a couple of ways to do this, and I'm going to relocate the right side hinge and go from there rather than try and just add material to a large area and have to keep adding and adding. I kind of know how that would go and I'd rather add as little material as possible. So I'll relocate the bottom hinge and we'll see what can happen from there.

First, remove the hinge.



The tailgate slides off this side and then pulls straight off the left side. The cables unclip, then you reach up the inside so that a rachet can hold the backside locknut.



The above is a look from the bottom where you have to reach up to get the locknut with the rachet.



The offset measured at the hinge was 11mm. Here I've marked the new hole center and drilled a pilot hole.



New holes drilled.



Here is the new hinge. I ended up having to adjust the holes with a carbide end mill. The extra shavings are visible just below the holes.



Had to loosen and pull out the tail light assembly to get to the back locknuts so that I could adjust the striker for the latch.

And here's the result:



So you can see that the error is less, but still not completely gone. I found a little interference with the deck material at the right end, but I should be able to work on that. There may be other adjustments needed.

I can't figure out if the tailgate got bent or if the problem is just a little more involved than it appears. I don't think the tailgate got bent, but I'll have to look at it some more.

It could be that I just need to re-contour the top rear end of the quarter panel and adjust the taillight position. Of these, the taillight position would be more difficult. I had a great deal of trouble trying to get the darned thing to insert the first time and I'm not really looking forward to working on it more, but it appears that is what I'll need to do. Sigh...

Cheers,

PH
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Old July 1st, 2020, 15:23   #129
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Default Day 78.1

OK, sports fans! Today you get to give me a vote.

Which of the following do you like best? Just start at the top as number 1 and increment as you go down the logos.



My friend with the shop has a CNC plasma cutter. It does really nice work, but in small delicate stuff there are problems when detail lines get smaller than the diameter of the plasma port in the head. So, there will be manual work to smooth edges, remove a few blips (not a technical term), and then polish up the winner.

It remains to be determined how to attach it. I thought of using super sticky double sided tape, such as what 3M sells to re-attach factory stuff when it wants to fall off, or gets pried off by pesky neighborhood kids. Those plastic items are generally made for tape, where there is an edge and then the underside is recessed for the tape. These cut outs don't have that recess, and it won't be appearing anytime soon.

Another thought would be to just glue it with surface prep, and then go an extra subtle touch by painting it along with the rest of the tailgate (where I'm planning to mount it). If I did that, I could also tape it and count on the paint to fill in behind the lettering. And if the painted letters are too subtle, I could use a sanding block to polish off the top surface.

So, there is leeway. What do you think?

Cheers,

PH
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Old July 1st, 2020, 16:59   #130
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I like number 1, but I'd wouldn't have the whole thing in italics. I would attach with 3M. Quick, cheap, easy, and removable. The tape on factory letters is still flat to the bottom, even though there is a recess.
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Old July 2nd, 2020, 04:33   #131
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I am more of a Ford guy so I would go for Ranchetta, but of the above choices #1.
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Old July 2nd, 2020, 07:08   #132
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#5

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