Replacing MK4 tdi with MK6 wagon tdi

dmeier · Dec 24, 2019

Hey,
I am doing a little writeup on my quest for another TDI. I don't entirely know why I am posting this, maybe because I can't make up my mind.
I have been driving diesel VW's for 16 straight years, half of my life. My MK4 Jetta 1.9 MT is at 430000km with some transmission issues. It currently runs and drives great, but I ran the transmission low on fluid and damaged the diff bearings. Lots of play in both shafts

. It's still functioning, but I can hear a minor whine now above 100km/hr... I could do the tranny swap, but it starts to get really time-consuming to maintain a car with km's like this.
I have been looking at all the auctioned off Sportwagen TDI's for the past 3 months but have not pulled the trigger on one yet. Either the dealers are asking too much, they are in terrible condition, or I cant find the right configuration for me. I limit my search pool by seeking a manual transmission.
I have performed most of the maintenance on my MK4, so I understand the additional maintenance costs associated with these cars.
Sportwagen TDI Pro's
- Great fuel economy
- Manually transmission pairs great with the TDI, very nice to drive.
- Tons of space and the seats fold down flat! MK7's do not fold flat.
- Decent warranty
- Bit of a unicorn, not much out there for fuel-efficient wagons.
https://owners.vwmodels.ca/pdf/VW_2L Gen 1_v2_CAN EN_FINAL.pdf
Con's
- Less power and fuel economy than before fix.
- Less tech options, no android auto.
- Generally higher maintenance costs than with a Japanese car.
- Hard to find one in good condition.
Notes on these auctioned off tdi's.
- Tires are always crap, even the vw dealers will sell them CPO with poor tires. Or they toss on some noname brand tires.
- Brakes are usually bad.
- Found water damage on 3 cars.
- sometimes the sunroofs dont close. I think if you want the sunroof you need to be diligent about maintaining it.
- There seems to be a big market for the wagons in Pacific Northwest and Western Canada. Too bad they will no longer make them.
- Manual transmissions seem to be in higher demand.
- I have walked away from 8 of these cars due to body damage. I take a towel to dry off wet cars and will only look at them with daylight.
- Vw dealers may offer certified pre-owned (CPO) but they will still leave the rusty brakes and tires on the cars. I don't see a huge advantage of buying CPO unless they have replace tires, brakes, battery, fluids, etc.
Questions:
1. Will the rusty breaks wear in properly?
2. Is 2014 the most desirable year to buy? Any reason not to go with 2011-2013?
3. Did I miss the boat on high-quality TDI's? Are the auctioned off vehicles only going to get worse?
4. Any thoughts on a 2013 white sportwagen manual (good body), base model, smells like dog, 93000km, 2018 rims/tires, no sunroof, asking $14kcad, thinking about offering $11k and maybe settling at 11.5-12k with a full detailing.
- https://vancouver.craigslist.org/pml/ctd/d/coquitlam-2013-volkswagen-golf-tdi/7035558387.html
5. Anyone in the lower mainland with a dealer's license willing to take me to one of the Thurday Adesa auctions?
I have had a good run with the tdi's, hopefully I can keep it going, but I am getting tempted to switch to a subaru. I would like to say thanks to all of the dedicated users in this community for all the time spent helping others.
Happy Holidays
Dawson

IndigoBlueWagon · Dec 24, 2019

If your MKIV is in good cosmetic condition and (relatively) rust free I'd seriously consider finding a new transmission and keeping the car. You're going to have lower FE and higher maintenance costs with an 11 or later car. And if you haven't driven a MKVI Sportwagen, do so and see what you think. You may love it or you may (like me) prefer the MKIV.

I don't know what the situation with buybacks is in Canada, but a lot of the lower mileage cars people are finding now have sat for 2 years or so. That can be OK, or it might not be. Rust, rodent or water damage, other issues (seized calipers, etc. could escape the fix and dealer prep process and the owner will end up with them.

Couple other things: I personally would avoid a Sportwagen with a sunroof like the plague. They leak, they jam, they creak...not a benefit. And manual transmission cars do command a premium.

Happy hunting.

Redrocketdi · Dec 24, 2019

For what it's worth:
I bought my 2013 JSW in May in Marietta, Ga. I paid around $13k USD. Red 6mt with 50,585 miles, CPO with new brakes, tires, etc. Great condition. If you want a cheaper one you may have to buy it from an individual instead if auction (bad condition) or dealer (more money).

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Redrocketdi · Dec 24, 2019

I'd also avoid sunroof. I didnt get one and am happy.

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dmeier · Dec 24, 2019

The car is in decent condition but is starting to show its age. The interior has held up really well. Suspension and steering is still tight after replacing everything in 2013 with IDparts stuff!

The sunroof is bringing back bad memories of from the MK4, sounds like it's not worth the hassle.

I have driven 8 or so and like the feeling of it. I can tell that it is lacking some power but don't really mind. The handling and braking are not that impressive but I am more about space and fuel economy. I did drive one that had improved suspension and a malone stage 2, the car was pristine but I shyed away due to the voided warranty and the fact that he drove the **** it with me in the car lol.

dmeier · Dec 24, 2019

Redrocketdi

Good to know. I don't mind spending more if its mint with good tires/brakes.

Redrocketdi · Dec 24, 2019

I had an 06 sentra spec v and a 14 Hyundai Veloster R Spec before this. The veloster was the fastest but the driving feel sucked ass. This car is slower but I enjoy driving it. I cant wait to get the sigma 6 shirt shifter to make the shifting even more enjoyable. I love this car more than I ever did thr veloster, even though this is slower.

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ttcheung · Dec 25, 2019

I went from a modified 2005 Legacy GT wagon 5MT to a 2011 JSW 6MT with the panoramic roof. The biggest reason was nearly double the fuel economy. I surely missed the crazy turbo rush, top-end power, boxer burble (I had an aftermarket exhaust), and the "manual-turbo-wagon-awd" rarity. However, "brown-diesel-manual-wagon" has its Jalopnik status as well.

I had tried helping a friend look into the TDIs just recently, but like the OP mentioned, they're either priced high, previously flooded, or need a bit of maintenance to shake off the years of sitting. My friend ultimately bought an Outback, but still yearns for the fuel economy.

I bought my JSW with ~136k miles and have ~184k miles now. So far it has been a very reliable and versatile vehicle, and it is very fun to drive. I have suspension upgrades and the DieselGeek shifter; those really add to a sporty driving experience. It's also Kerma-tuned and the car returns mid 40s MPG.

I had to deal with my share of sunroof leaking (due to drain hose routed INTO interior during vehicle assembly) and sunroof sunshade replacement (bad sunshade design), but the sunroof itself has been "obedient" so far.

Despite all this praise, I feel a transmission swap should be straightforward, and that you should continue to keep your wagon. Your engine probably has a lot of life left, and whatever upcoming "old car" maintenance you have will be a lot less than outright buying a new car. I do know that if you jump ships to a Subaru, that MPG is going to burn you hard.

JELLOWSUBMARINE · Dec 26, 2019

ttcheung said:
I had to deal with my share of sunroof leaking (due to drain hose routed INTO interior )

Where did you improve routing? Did it leak primarily @ connections?

I agree with most here about the only comparable counter wagon is the Subaru, but the $ differense and FE killed the outback for us. The wife got an Impreza that according to fuelly.com cost the same (fuel cost...) around town but definately not @ hyway mpg. The Impreza isnt half the car the JSW is IMO. The hatch area is small, the seats are miniture as is the fuel tank and driving range (ez 150 miles less). Goes from a fun drive to are we there yet?

90_zeros · Dec 26, 2019

dmeier said:
Questions:
1. Will the rusty breaks wear in properly?
2. Is 2014 the most desirable year to buy? Any reason not to go with 2011-2013?
3. Did I miss the boat on high-quality TDI's? Are the auctioned off vehicles only going to get worse?
Dawson

Can't speak much about the MK4s. I know MK4s have a die-hard following, but I've never been a fan. I've had a few in the family that were endless money pits (not TDIs), and so I'm biased, but I don't detract from that fact that a well assembled and well maintained MK4 can be just as reliable as the best of them. I bought a 2013 from a small dealer, and can comment on these questions to a limited degree.

1. Define "rusty brakes". Do you mean "holy crap salted canadian winter" rusted, or surface rust? Any vehicle left outside for 24 hours in most climates will have "rusty brakes". If the latter, then yes they will wear in fine. Your biggest concern would be stuck calipers/rusted lines if the car is seriously rusted. I have no experience with cold-climate cars, except that, just as in a warm climate, they rapidly turn to crap if not cared for properly.

2. I'm not aware of any reason to buy 2014 over 2013. From my understanding, any common rail car between '11 - '14 will share the same BCM, the same known problems, the same fixes, etc.

3. I wouldn't say you've missed the boat, but for sure every day that passes is one more day for the mainstream to catch on to the killer deals. There is a small dealer near me in AL that has nothing but buyback TDIs. About 15 in stock of varying trims. Golfs, Jettas, DSGs, Manuals, etc... all under 50k miles and most for sale under $12k. You/I have DEFINITELY missed the boat on Q5s and Touaregs

I wouldn't worry too much about the "emissions fix" either. You're unlikely to notice the loss in power or economy unless you owned the car in an "unfixed" state, then had it returned to you after the fixes were applied. If you are getting into a post-fix car without having driven one before, you will likely not notice. These cars were never fast to begin with, and the fix made them slightly more....not fast. Nothing a tune won't fix though, as you're aware. I certainly want mine to be quicker, but the power delivery is entertaining enough as-is for a commuter, and so while a tune is in my future, it's not at the top of the mod-list for me. I was way more concerned about the anemic lighting, and fixing the "old-age" issues you touched on, like dry-rotted tires and wiper blades, a musty cabin filter, changing brake fluid, fuel filter, old bulbs, etc... Just factor these things in to your asking price. I paid less than $10k USD for my Golf base 4dr. 2013 M6 w/ 31k miles. I would figure +$2k for the JSW in similar condition.

90_zeros · Dec 26, 2019

JELLOWSUBMARINE said:
Where did you improve routing? Did it leak primarily @ connections?
I agree with most here about the only comparable counter wagon is the Subaru, but the $ differense and FE killed the outback for us. The wife got an Impreza that according to fuelly.com cost the same (fuel cost...) around town but definately not @ hyway mpg. The Impreza isnt half the car the JSW is IMO. The hatch area is small, the seats are miniture as is the fuel tank and driving range (ez 150 miles less). Goes from a fun drive to are we there yet?

My one and only defense of the Subaru: A modded Forester XT is about as close to perfection as one can get for an offroad or winter car, but there is no comparison for refinement or economy. The trade off is the huge rush of driving such a crazy vehicle. When you drive one, it doesn't make sense that a manufacturer would sell something so awesome in the US. That's why they're still getting $15-$20k for low-mileage used ones.

JELLOWSUBMARINE · Dec 26, 2019

90_zeros said:
My one and only defense of the Subaru: A modded Forester XT is about as close to perfection as one can get for an offroad or winter car, but there is no comparison for refinement or economy. The trade off is the huge rush of driving such a crazy vehicle. When you drive one, it doesn't make sense that a manufacturer would sell something so awesome in the US. That's why they're still getting $15-$20k for low-mileage used ones.

We bought the Impeza mainly for the AWD but in hindsight should have looked into a gas/manual AWD AUDI or golf AWD. The Subaru does have some really nice advanced features though.

turbobrick240 · Dec 26, 2019

dmeier said:
I have driven 8 or so and like the feeling of it. I can tell that it is lacking some power but don't really mind. The handling and braking are not that impressive but I am more about space and fuel economy. I did drive one that had improved suspension and a malone stage 2, the car was pristine but I shyed away due to the voided warranty and the fact that he drove the **** it with me in the car lol.

A possibly voided warranty is one thing, but I actually think you're better off getting one owned by somebody who isn't afraid of the accelerator. These engines like to work.

DivineChaos · Dec 26, 2019

avoid the pano roof. my dad just had issues with his and the assembly has to be replaced. its 700 for the assembly. about all they di is change the oil/filter and fuel filter. if you complain they will generally replace tires. even if the tires are good they will usually be flatspotted i got 2 2011 jsw tdi with a dsg. first one i totaled. but it was in good shape 64k miles for 10600. had new tires because i made a deal out of it. but on both that i had the rear breaks wore funny because of rust. my current one i got with 88k miles for 9 grand. same with a dsg but with nav and the pano. Tires were like new but have flat spots. So you can knock them down 500 min for a brake job. and another grand for tires. And for any cosmetic damage you see that is bad. I did have to replace my rear brakes. but i bet if you take them apart and cklean them asap they should be ok. And every other month the pano slides and cable should be lubed with a dry teflon or graphite lube, and the drains flushed.

But if your mk4 is in good shape. have your trans fixed. its just bearings.

Wilkins · Dec 28, 2019

https://www.jpsubaruvictoria.com/us...nternetPrice=&driveLine=&lastFacetInteracted=

Mk VII. Looked good from 20 ft, I didn’t want to go closer LOL.

dmeier · Dec 29, 2019

turbobrick240 said:
A possibly voided warranty is one thing, but I actually think you're better off getting one owned by somebody who isn't afraid of the accelerator. These engines like to work.

I like to think my alh intake has stayed clean for this reason!

dmeier · Dec 29, 2019

90_zeros said:
1. Define "rusty brakes". Do you mean "holy crap salted canadian winter" rusted, or surface rust? Any vehicle left outside for 24 hours in most climates will have "rusty brakes". If the latter, then yes they will wear in fine. Your biggest concern would be stuck calipers/rusted lines if the car is seriously rusted. I have no experience with cold-climate cars, except that, just as in a warm climate, they rapidly turn to crap if not cared for properly.
/QUOTE]

Just surface rust, nothing crazy. On some of the test drives i tried really hammering the brakes and they didnt really improve, but it might take some time.

dmeier · Dec 29, 2019

Botched that quote.

I discovered the factory chinese radio (rcd330) you can purchase online. I really enjoyed using android auto in a rental car, pretty cool that I could have this feature in an older vehicle without having to go aftermarket.

I am also looking at an 18 sportwagen 4motion dsg trendline with 33k CPO. Dealer is really trying to move this car and has discounted the car quite a bit. At 19000cad right now. I drove another sportwagen 4motion with a 6 speed and hated the shifter, super clunky.

I have been tempted by this car but am still leaning back towards the tdi if I can find a clean car.

dmeier · Dec 31, 2019

Ended up buying the 2018 sportwagen 4motion with DSG.

I am going to miss the tdi fuel economy

grign · Dec 31, 2019

I bought a 2014 JSW from a used dealer for $6900 It was an auction piece that need the drivers door hinge replaced, the shift linkages replaced if I cared. (I have to shift second to first sometimes). and two dings in the hood. The tires were almost shot as well.

My background includes a MK4 Jetta, and a MK6 golf

1. Will the rusty breaks wear in properly?

I don't know....the brakes feel a touch slow to catch to me compared to my MK4. After about 500 miles they did get better, I still get a vibration from the fronts when I hit the brakes. Again I will ride them until replacement, because the pads look darn near new.

The rears have caused me no issues, but I pulled up the e-brake while driving to clear the rust from them.

The clutch seems to catch quicker then my wife's Mk6 golf, but I have hardly stalled it since I bought it six months ago.

2. Is 2014 the most desirable year to buy? Any reason not to go with 2011-2013?

Anything 2015+ require DEF

3. Did I miss the boat on high-quality TDI's? Are the auctioned off vehicles only going to get worse?

I don't know. Mine has a small stone hit on the hood.

4. Any thoughts on a 2013 white sportwagen manual (good body), base model, smells like dog, 93000km, 2018 rims/tires, no sunroof, asking $14kcad, thinking about offering $11k and maybe settling at 11.5-12k with a full detailing.

That's really a personal choice. If it smelt like a dog, at least for me, I would pass.

5. Anyone in the lower mainland with a dealer's license willing to take me to one of the Thurday Adesa auctions?

I am not your guy for that.

All and all I love my 2014 JSW. The things to look out for are rusted shift linkages. I have to shift into second before I drop into first. If it is a buy back, think that if it can rust or oxidize it has. I have spent many hours cleaning rust and oxidation.

I love the car though, on the highway, totally stock, with the fix, I get 43mpg. City mileage is around 38mpg.

My mk4 is 45-50mpg (tuned, etc) but the refinements of the mk6 are worth the loss in fuel mileage to me.

JELLOWSUBMARINE · Jan 1, 2020

grign said:
1. Will the rusty breaks wear in properly?

I don't know....the brakes feel a touch slow to catch to me compared to my MK4. After about 500 miles they did get better, I still get a vibration from the fronts when I hit the brakes. Again I will ride them until replacement, because the pads look darn near new.

The clutch seems to catch quicker then my wife's Mk6 golf, but I have hardly stalled it since I bought it six months ago.

2. Is 2014 the most desirable year to buy? Any reason not to go with 2011-2013?

3. Did I miss the boat on high-quality TDI's? Are the auctioned off vehicles only going to get worse?

4. Any thoughts on a 2013 white sportwagen manual (good body), base model, smells like dog, 93000km, 2018 rims/tires, no sunroof, asking $14kcad, thinking about offering $11k and maybe settling at 11.5-12k with a full detailing.

5. I love the car though, on the highway, totally stock, with the fix, I get 43mpg. City mileage is around 38mpg.

My mk4 is 45-50mpg (tuned, etc) but the refinements of the mk6 are worth the loss in fuel mileage to me.

1 If new the pads haven't wore badly (grooves), I'd replace the front rotors immediately. If you have a belt sander you can lightly de-glaze them for the best seating to the new rotors.
These clutches are weird and can take some getting used to. It took both my wife and son awhile and they both know their way around a 3 pedal. There is a couple upgrades out there that improve clutch feel.

2 IMO the earlier years (2011 up) can give the best value, 2011 thru 2014 are really apples to apples. Past ownership/mileage can often can be better than newer. Some of the 14' one year options like push button have issues of their own. I would get the year/model that fits your needs best.

3 I bought my C.P.O. JSW 2/19, which I think was the 1st phase. I was very researched @ the time and think I got a decent out the door price (10k) on a 69k mile 2011, pano, 6m car. 6m cars command higher $ and dealership C.P.O.s generally up to +$2k. IMO, the warrenty coverage is worth it with the DPF issues alone. I haven't watched what seems like another phase so I really don't know what's out there now. There should be a lot of good input here though if you post new possibilities that you find.

4 I tend to keep my cars forever, so I always factor past history into the price... even over mileage within reason. Id rather pay abit more for good history.

5 The earlier non DPF TDIs were about 10+ MPGs better. I didn't own a mkiv but my beloved heavy b5.5 wagon did the same MPG as my JSW, maybe better around town. If you live in a DPF/EGR deletable area you can have the refinement and MPG.

Redrocketdi · Jan 1, 2020

JELLOWSUBMARINE said:
1 If new the pads haven't wore badly (grooves), I'd replace the front rotors immediately. If you have a belt sander you can lightly de-glaze them for the best seating to the new rotors.
These clutches are weird and can take some getting used to. It took both my wife and son awhile and they both know their way around a 3 pedal. There is a couple upgrades out there that improve clutch feel.

2 IMO the earlier years (2011 up) can give the best value, 2011 thru 2014 are really apples to apples. Past ownership/mileage can often can be better than newer. Some of the 14' one year options like push button have issues of their own. I would get the year/model that fits your needs best.

3 I bought my JSW 2/19, which I think was the 1st phase. I was very researched @ the time and think I got a decent out the door price (10k) on a 69k mile 2011, pano, 6m car. 6m cars command higher $ and dealership C.P.O.s generally up to +$2k. I haven't watched what seems like another phase so I really don't know what's out there now. There should be a lot of good input here though if you post new possibilities that you find.

4 I tend to keep my cars forever, so I always factor past history into the price... even over mileage within reason. Id rather pay abit more for good history.

5 The earlier non DPF TDIs were about 10+ MPGs better. I didn't own a mkiv but my beloved heavy b5.5 wagon did the same MPG as my JSW, maybe better around town. If you live in a DPF/EGR deletable area you can have the refinement and MPG.

What clutch upgrades?

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JELLOWSUBMARINE · Jan 1, 2020

JELLOWSUBMARINE said:
There are a couple upgrades out there that improve clutch feel.

Redrocketdi said:
What clutch upgrades?

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https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/clutch-pedal-upgrade-kit-6-speed/018733ecs01kt/

Redrocketdi · Jan 1, 2020

JELLOWSUBMARINE said:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/clutch-pedal-upgrade-kit-6-speed/018733ecs01kt/

Thank you!

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bizzle · Jan 1, 2020

I think the value proposition of a buyback is getting increasingly difficult to argue. When I bought my 2012 JSW I didn't realize we'd be selling it back in a few short years. I waited a couple years and then bought a 2015 in 2017. I got a fully loaded SEL for around $14K. I thought I had found a steal at the time but the margins between its fuel economy and more current vehicles FE were already much more slim than when I had bought the 2012. Between the fact that the last 2015s have been sitting for approximately 5 years, with technology to match, the difficulty in finding someone qualified to work on CR TDIs, and gas vehicles rivaling their FE, I find it much more difficult to justify paying top dollar for the wagons now.

The 2015 was totaled in the beginning of December and our insurance is only offering $14K for its replacement value. The least expensive I can find, like for like, is $16K and water was actively pouring into it when we lifted the hatch (that's black on black in North County listed at $16.5 if anyone is currently looking and doesn't happen to check it in the rain...the dealer isn't going to fix it nor are they reducing their price any lower than $16K so fair warning to others).

The main reason we didn't replace with a wagon was I realized for the past year we haven't driven the Touareg (a 2013 Exec w/ 65K I scored for $16K for reference) at all since the wagon had enough room and was better mileage. So it just made the Treg wasted even though it's my wife's favorite vehicle. I also considered that I grew up driving single digit mpg vehicles and eeking 20ish mpg in my BMWs was a feat worth bragging about in the late 80s...but fuel was also only a buck a gallon. Then I finally switched to diesels in the late 90s and was having fun hitting 50+ mpg. By the time gas hit $5+ in mid 2000s I was very happy I was in a diesel...but diesel was cheaper than gas. When I finally upgraded to the wagon diesel and gas were comparable but 35+ mpg was easy to accept comparing the creature comforts of a 2012 fully loaded JSW to a '98 bug, even one with a malone tune and aftermarket suspension and ridiculous stereo. The real killer to the bug, which also removed my BMW cabrio from the stable, was the two car seats that literally couldn't fit in the convertible and we could tell a second one wouldn't fit in the bug.

Now, however, diesel is more expensive than gas and with the questionable condition of the last pickings from the auctions I finally just let the whole idea go in my head. With my car becoming the 2nd vehicle and primary use of dropping kids off at preschool and infrequently going to work a short distance away without a long commute anymore, I decided to get something sporty and bought myself a 2017 GTI. I get about 25-30 mpg, which is like double what the gassers I used to drive got and just a bit under what CR diesels get, but I don't have to worry about any of the diesel issues, and worrying about more FE seems like chasing the dragon at this point

I do have the CarPlay/Android Auto upgrade kit that I never got around to installing in my wagon that I will pass on to anyone here for what I paid for it (about half the cost of sourcing the pieces individually).

Clusters4400 · Jan 10, 2020

I just picked up a 2014 Jetta, with a manual transmission for 10,990. at a dealership, it wasn't CPO, but only had 37k original miles(Comes with a 12/12 warranty)

Correct me if i am wrong, but I do believe the CPOs have a 2 year unlimited mileage warrant backed by VW.

Loving my Jetta though!

JELLOWSUBMARINE · Jan 10, 2020

Clusters4400 said:
I just picked up a 2014 Jetta, with a manual transmission for 10,990. at a dealership, it wasn't CPO, but only had 37k original miles(Comes with a 12/12 warranty)

Correct me if i am wrong, but I do believe the CPOs have a 2 year unlimited mileage warrant backed by VW.

Loving my Jetta though!

For example my JSW CPO 2011 w/ 69,464 miles, bought 2/19. It specifically breaks down as:

1) TDI extended drivetrain 123,464 or 6/20/23
2) emission 126k or 5/21
3) C.P.O. 94k or 2/20/21
4) HPFP 120k or 11/20
5) exhaust flap 120k or 11/20/20
6) clockspring 120k or 11/20/20

VicGuy · Jan 10, 2020

Here's a link to the VW Canada warranty on buyback TDIs.
https://owners.vwmodels.ca/pdf/VW_2L%20Gen%201_v2_CAN%20EN_FINAL.pdf

Warranty is The greater of:
 10 years or 193,000 km, whichever occurs first,
from the vehicle’s original in-service date; OR
 4 years or 77,000 km, whichever occurs first,
from the date and mileage of the completion of
the emissions modification.
for auto transmission cars, more for standards.

Victoria BC:
I bought a 2012 Golf Wagon (aka Jetta Sportwagen) Highline TDI recently.
25k miles and I paid under 12k USD.
Good brakes and tires, and everything works, so far. Car is basically mint.
Not CPO but bought through a dealer.

Porch · Jan 20, 2020

I have a 2011 jsw tdi 6sp. I looked around a bunch before finding one from S. Carolina(avoided all cars from the rust belt) it had 87k and the emissions fix done. Drives great. Sunroof leaks and creaks. Serviced all drains, tested them with water, strated leaking again after a few weeks. Facing 6 inches of rain in the forecast, I gave up and taped it shut with clear Gorilla Tape. No more leaks. Bonus- that also fixed the creaking! If it ever stops raining in washington state, I am going to seal it shut forever with silicone or something similar. When I got the car, my master vw technician friend did my timing belt/water pump for free (!) And an oil change, and helped put on a skid plate. Still has extended emissions warranty and I've gotten a glow plug and dpf regen at a dealership free of charge, they loaned me a passat. I asked for a porsche, they lol'd.
I've only ever driven old carbureted subarus, so my frame of reference is way off, but this car kicks ass man. Twice as fast with half the gas, in luxury. Original stereo/Bluetooth works/sounds great. Goes great in snow on blizzaks. I've driven friends' older vw sticks, and the mk6s feel familiar, but drive way better. You'll love it.

My mpg is always high 30s to low 40s, in normal driving with frequent stabs of the throttle, since this is by far the fastest car I've ever had(remember, my frame of reference is a 70hp carbureted subaru).

Replacing MK4 tdi with MK6 wagon tdi

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