Coilover and Rear Axle Bushing Install ?'s

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Hey all,

So I've been putting off some maintenance due to just wanting to dirtbike all the time on my days off, but coming up on Saturday my group can't ride and so I'm having a debate whether to roll solo, or get some work done on the car.

The rear axle bushings are due, as well as the shocks are shot.
I have the upgraded axle bushings:


and also a set of coilovers I'm going to try out this go around. I'm sitting about 1.5" lowered currently with a set of coils currently, but that's beside the point.

I haven't done suspension on this car yet. I helped my buddy out and did his Quattro TT a while back, but it's a bit different.

My question for those that have done suspension and the axle bushings, is it possible to get everything done in a day?
I have the tools for the job including the axle bushing press, sawzall and body saw for cutting the rear axle bushings out, impacts for making quick work removing bolts, etc.
Very mechanically inclined, none of my vehicles have ever been to a shop for work.

I'm just wondering if I'm trying to bite off more than I can chew for this project. I'd like to get it all done at the same time, since I would have the rear suspension off anyway, but Sunday is a no go for vehicle work.

I've ready through a few threads for both of the projects, but some are highly outdated, so I'm wondering if there's any tips/tricks/advice for those axle bushings that makes life easier, or a thread maybe that I haven't come across yet?

I don't have a lift, this will all be done in the garage, on jack-stands. Thanks in advance!
 

Curious Chris

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 11, 2001
Location
Pineview GA
TDI
Jetta Wagon 2003 RIP Rockford IL
Did this on my car and I think it took two of us about 6 hours. We had to drill out the bushings and then cut the metal. The bolts would not come out as they had bonded with the aluminum plates in the bushing.

Oh if the axle is out of the car it is a walk in the park afternoon job.
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Did this on my car and I think it took two of us about 6 hours. We had to drill out the bushings and then cut the metal. The bolts would not come out as they had bonded with the aluminum plates in the bushing.

Oh if the axle is out of the car it is a walk in the park afternoon job.
So you had to drill out the bolts and then cut the metal (in the bushing)?
I was already planning on sawzalling through the bushing material and then cutting a notch in the bushing housing to release pressure of the bushing, then pound it out. I have some FPI fluid, that should release the bolts from the aluminum if that has happened. That stuff is magic.

The axle won't be out of the car, I was only planning on dropping it down. I'd rather not have to remove brake lines and such...I need to find some better writeups
 

burn_your_money

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Location
Missouri
TDI
99 Beetle, 96 B4V, 05 Passat wagon
I did it in car on my Beetle in a few hours. I was in the shop so I had all my air tools though.
If it goes well it is an easy 1 day job. If it doesn't, well...
 

FlyingFin

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Location
UK
TDI
A4 Avant AFN
I did mine a few years ago on an A4 Avant and it took about an hour per side to change each bush, with air tools to cut through the ali bush casing, then wound it back in with threaded rod, oversized sockets and washers.

Lots of copperslip used to assist new bearing into place.

One thing you MUST NOT DO is tighten the bushes up until the wheels are back on the car, lowered to the ground and the car is supporting its own weight.

If you tighten them before it is supporting its full weight, you will tear the inner bearing material from its casing in as little as a few weeks as they will be subjected to a twisting force as the car is lowered to the ground, and this will only be compounded if the car is loaded heavily or driven on undulating roads...
 

Stromaluski

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
'67 Deluxe Bus, '80 Rabbit Truck, '92 Corrado, '10 Cup Edition
Oh if the axle is out of the car it is a walk in the park afternoon job.
The axle won't be out of the car, I was only planning on dropping it down. I'd rather not have to remove brake lines and such...I need to find some better writeups
I would actually recommend pulling the rear beam. Since you're replacing the springs/shocks anyway, the only things holding the rear beam in the car would be the brake lines and e-brake cables.

It will be WAY easier to simply re-bleed the rear brakes than it will be to try to do everything with the beam in the car.

It will also give you an excuse to flush most of your brake fluid (unless you want to do the front brakes, too, then it will be all of your brake fluid). When's the last time that was done?
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
I did mine a few years ago on an A4 Avant and it took about an hour per side to change each bush, with air tools to cut through the ali bush casing, then wound it back in with threaded rod, oversized sockets and washers.

Lots of copperslip used to assist new bearing into place.

One thing you MUST NOT DO is tighten the bushes up until the wheels are back on the car, lowered to the ground and the car is supporting its own weight.

If you tighten them before it is supporting its full weight, you will tear the inner bearing material from its casing in as little as a few weeks as they will be subjected to a twisting force as the car is lowered to the ground, and this will only be compounded if the car is loaded heavily or driven on undulating roads...
Good advice here thank you. Did you do this with the beam on the car?

I would actually recommend pulling the rear beam. Since you're replacing the springs/shocks anyway, the only things holding the rear beam in the car would be the brake lines and e-brake cables.

It will be WAY easier to simply re-bleed the rear brakes than it will be to try to do everything with the beam in the car.

It will also give you an excuse to flush most of your brake fluid (unless you want to do the front brakes, too, then it will be all of your brake fluid). When's the last time that was done?
Brake fluid was done probably 2 years ago. It's due. Only issue is I am working solo. I don't have any help and have to use the pump and bleed method.

I guess I'll have to decide that when I get to that point.
I'm going to check out a couple write ups and videos today and asses if it's doable in 1 day for me. I might try to give myself a full weekend for peace of mind.

Edit: I've been watching a few videos, I think I'm going to pick up a cheap mighty vac and just pull the lines...seems a lot easier than crawling around on the ground to do all of this. I have horrible knees as it is
 
Last edited:

Prairie Chicken

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Location
Northern IL
TDI
05 Jetta, 04 Jetta
Have to agree with Stomaluski... I just did this last summer by removing the axle - it was kind of a no brainer as the car was due fluid flush anyway and Jr #2 was there to help, but I'll be doing this job again solo and will still remove the beam.

BTW - I would recommend a power bleeder... makes flushing the fluid fun vs the other method.
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
I've been reading a lot about the axle bolts not coming out from the inside because the tank gets in the way? Do people install them from the outside in with no ill effect?

Since I've opted to pull the axle beam out is this still and issue or should I just plan on cutting them out?
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Have to agree with Stomaluski... I just did this last summer by removing the axle - it was kind of a no brainer as the car was due fluid flush anyway and Jr #2 was there to help, but I'll be doing this job again solo and will still remove the beam.

BTW - I would recommend a power bleeder... makes flushing the fluid fun vs the other method.
Yeah I'm going to go this route as well, I've made up my mind that if I don't I'm just going to fight it trying to do everything on the floor. I don't have a Power bleeder but I have a handheld mighty-vac. I was thinking that should be fine on this little car? The lines aren't very large diameter. I'll do the two backs when I'm doing this job and the fronts when I move up there to do the front shocks...
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
I've never used a MV... although I've heard it does the job.
I think I'm just going to pick up a Harbor Freight Pneumatic bleeder. $30 and it seems worthwhile since I never have a set of helping hands.

Now I've been reading about the front passenger strut removal :eek:
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
I've been reading a lot about the axle bolts not coming out from the inside because the tank gets in the way? Do people install them from the outside in with no ill effect?

Since I've opted to pull the axle beam out is this still and issue or should I just plan on cutting them out?
I seem to recall needing to sawzall one of the bushing bolts. I might have also reversed the bolt when I reinstalled (with, of course, a new bolt). Not sure if I've violated the laws of the universe in doing so, but so far I haven't encountered any blow back.
 

FlyingFin

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Location
UK
TDI
A4 Avant AFN
Good advice here thank you. Did you do this with the beam on the car?

Yes, wheels off obviously, and then both bolts withdrawn from both sides and this allows a slight 'hang down' Which supported by Axle stands meant the job was a relative breeze.

No nightmares as suggested on the , then posts of the day...


Have fun and enjoy the feeling of a planted rear again!! :D
 

FlyingFin

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Location
UK
TDI
A4 Avant AFN
Now I've been reading about the front passenger strut removal :eek:

An absolute doddle!!


Three bolts on the top strut mounting under the bonnet, one pinch bolt holding the upper arms to the suspension leg, and a large bolt through the base of the shocker... And Roberts your mothers brother!!


The only issue might be the pinch bolt if it hasn't been removed and greased on a regular basis... I do mine as a matter of course now on each main service, sometimes more often if I have cause to whip the front wheels off..... Lots of plus gas a day or two before helps immensely. I usually spray lots oft he stuff all over the place, then wrap Kim Wipe over the bolt ant tie wrap it loosely in place then soak the whole lots in lashings of plus gas, then wrap with cling film, and if you have an extension nozzle, pierce the cling film at the top and top it up with more plus gas. If you can leave it a day or two in this state, you will usually find the the bolt will withdraw so much easier... One thing to do is remove the nut from the end of the pinch bolt to allow more access of the plus gas fluid to the thread and bolt shaft. Its worth rotating the bolt a few times every hour or two to allow for the fluid to surround the bolt.




FF


Just re read this, I thought you said front strut.... But Passenger strut?? Thought that was something the other half did when she had a monk on..... ;)
 
Last edited:

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Thanks for all of the advice guys. When it comes time to do this, I think I'll just go ahead and pull the whole beam. the brakes could use bleending anyway. Will likely be a couple weeks until I have a full weekend to give it a go. Guess I should source some new bolts so I can flip them around for installation...
 

Gippeto

Active member
Joined
Jan 25, 2018
Location
Alberta Canada
TDI
2003 Jetta sedan
Have flushed brake fluid/bled brakes solo by using a longer piece of poly tubing on the bleeder (just cracked)...run it UP and over the tire and down into a jar. Suck the old fluid from the reservoir and put it in the jar (large syringe from a farm store works). The end of the poly tube should be submerged.

Any air bubble rise to the top and won't get sucked back in.

Pump slowly, keep an eye on fluid level.

Al
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Have flushed brake fluid/bled brakes solo by using a longer piece of poly tubing on the bleeder (just cracked)...run it UP and over the tire and down into a jar. Suck the old fluid from the reservoir and put it in the jar (large syringe from a farm store works). The end of the poly tube should be submerged.

Any air bubble rise to the top and won't get sucked back in.

Pump slowly, keep an eye on fluid level.

Al
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to spring for a pneumatic bleeder, it will come in handy for the truck as well
 

TX Smoke

Member
Joined
May 4, 2017
Location
Kingsland TX
TDI
2003 Beetle
No need to pull the beam unless you want to. I’m halfway through the process now and one thing I haven’t seen mentioned is with the Cupra R bushings you’ll need something that has room for the plastic on the ends to fit into. I got a cheap press from Amazon that would work perfect for the standard bushings, but had no space for the plastic ends which leaves the bushing about a 1/4 inch off centered. Fortunately I had the perfect size cup in a ball joint kit.

Just something to think about if your borrowing things from the parts store.
 

Curious Chris

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 11, 2001
Location
Pineview GA
TDI
Jetta Wagon 2003 RIP Rockford IL
So you had to drill out the bolts and then cut the metal (in the bushing)?
I was already planning on sawzalling through the bushing material and then cutting a notch in the bushing housing to release pressure of the bushing, then pound it out. I have some FPI fluid, that should release the bolts from the aluminum if that has happened. That stuff is magic.
The axle won't be out of the car, I was only planning on dropping it down. I'd rather not have to remove brake lines and such...I need to find some better writeups
Yes that will work. Of course we had to cut the bolt heads off as they were essentially galvanically bonded and since it is a bushing no amount of torque would remove them. This was the most difficult part. Drilling the bushing until we could get the sawzall in and then using a chisel to loosen it up was relatively easy.
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Yes that will work. Of course we had to cut the bolt heads off as they were essentially galvanically bonded and since it is a bushing no amount of torque would remove them. This was the most difficult part. Drilling the bushing until we could get the sawzall in and then using a chisel to loosen it up was relatively easy.
Good deal. I should have the new bolts in by the weekend and ready to attack this project. I have a couple of sizes of electric saws (sawzall and body saw) so I should be able to make quick work of them once I get the original bolts out. The car wasn't subject to a harsh environment so we'll see with mine, but I always expect the worst.
When they go back in, I always coat things with a layer of marine grease (Evinrude) meant for saltwater environment. Works better than anti seize in my opinion as it doesn't harden. I've come back to hardware being used in a saltwater environment (boats) 5 years after using this stuff on that hardware and it came out as easy as the day that it was installed.

I'll probably throw a dab of FPI fluid on the bolts prior to removal, that stuff will break anything free.
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Completed

Well I completed the rear axle beam bushing install this weekend, along with the coilovers. Foremost I want to give a shoutout to member hey_allen for the second set of hands. It was really helpful!

Honestly, the hardest part of this install was that front passenger coilover. I'll get to that in a bit.

I decided to go the route of dropping the rear beam out and doing it out of the car. I can't stress enough how much easier this made the job. I can't imagine hacking away on the ground with sawzalls, etc hammering those bushings out.

I had the rear beam out probably in under an hour. My bolts were installed from the outside in, so no cutting for me. Although I did have a new set ready which I used anyway.
I disconnected the brake lines to do this. I was WAY overdue for a bleed, my fluid was nasty.

The one things I would say if you don't have them is some sort of plug for the lines. I opted to try the sandwich bag tight over the end with a tight o-ring to seal it...ya didn't work great. I had some catch pads for the fluid though.

Once the beam was out, my bushings were toast. I was able to use the old bolt to punch the rubber out. Then I went to town with the sawzall and got through the old bushing case down to the housing. Still after that it was a bear to beat those old bushing cases out. Took a while.

I put a set of Cupra R bushings back in there. Everyone was backordered on them. I waited almost 2 months for them (x-mas present from the old man...tools and bushings). I also used the ebay press for them. It works halfway, then you need a larger cup to receive the backside of the bushing. A cup from a heavy duty ball joint press (OTC) finished the job nicely.

Getting it back in was easy with 2 people. Everything lined up great. Snugged everything back down then final torqued it while it was on the ground. It was nice because the weight of the car kept the nut from spinning on the backside so it torqued easily. I had to lay on my back to do it.

Coilovers were not a pain until the passenger side. The driver side actually came out without removing anything except the sway bar link.

No way passenger side was coming out without spring compressors, which we rented. Unfortunately of all the writeups I read, I forgot that spacers are a must on the head of the threaded portion of the press (between the head and lower clamp, when installed on the spring). If you don't do this, you run out of real estate. Ie the threaded portion will run up and hit the upper part of the wheel well before the spring is even compressed. I was kicking myself for that, so we did the next best thing:



It released with a "bang" but everything was captured. After fighting the tangled spring for a while, we were able to basically "thread" the spring pieces down the body enough to push the strut up and out of the lower retainer. Sometimes some redneck engineering comes in handy.

The Coilover install was easy, since their max height is about 1" lower than stock. I set them all at max height for as much clearance as I could get and removing the wheel well gap. I set the fronts about a 1/4" higher than the rear, in hopes that the fronts will settle down to the ride height of the rear. We'll see how that works.

All in all, not a bad job. Got it all done (minus a couple hiccups) in 1 day)
 
Top