Car Cranks Fast But Doesn't Fire

TDIPOWERMAN said:

I tried to get a vag-com but couldn't

The scan guage shows no rpms when cranking either.
The rpm guage did jump a little when I was cranking, it twitched a little, went up and then came down to nothing.
That seams like a wiring or sensor issue right?

I found the sensor...... does the wire pop right off of the sensor or do you need to remove that weird little bolt to get it off? Shall I just replace the sensor or do you think it is the wiring? I made sure the connector up a little furthur is good. How can I test this?

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The wire and the sensor do not come apart. wiggle the wire around and try starting it. might get lucky. if not, the only thing I know of is to replace the sensor

guess I'll have to take a ride over to vw......

I put another used sensor on it and I still have the same problem. I'm curious as to how this sensor works...... Does it sense heat or what? It looks like the sensor just rubs on something on the crankshaft.
Is there a way to test the sensor at the connector above?

Is there any fuse or relay in between the sensor and the ECU?

What should I do? The scan guage and cluster shows no rpms when cranking.

The sensor is a Hall effect sensor that senses gaps in a tone wheel on the crankshaft. It is wired directly to the ECM, except for the coupling station next to the needle lift sensor and IP connections.

Before you start tearing the whole car apart, make sure there isn't a problem with the power supply. Does the glow plug light turn on when you turn the ignition on? Did you check the power supply relay 109 first?

^^^ I just had a client in that to ground the 109 AT the relay.(tied a wire around the post, grounded to the meatal uned the dash) Black with blue wire IIRC. That is a ground signal from the ignition switch. He replaced the switch and the car runs normal now.

YEAHH!!!!!!!!!!

RELAY 109 WAS THE CULPRIT

I unplugged the relay, put some dialectic grease on it, and plugged it back in. The car started right away and ran real nice.

So I would like to say thanks so much for all the help guys.

The car does go into limp mode and throws a few codes so I'll have to look into that but that shouldn't be to hard to diagnose.

So..... I'm ready to wrap this long thread up!

Thanks!!

IP related thread cont'd... also need some help...

Good to see you were able to get your new (to you) motor running.

For a NB '98, can someone tell me which inlet is the input line and which is the return line inlet?

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A friend of ours decided to "help" us while I was out of town and attempt to diagnose a low power/limp mode condition. Unfortunately he knows nothing about diesels, much less TDIs.

He pulled the fuel filter, drained it to ensure the fuel was clean but didn't refill the filter when he replaced it. He started the car and it ran for a few minutes. After it died, it hasn't started since.

I've tried using a "mityvac" to create suction (upto 25 psi) and prime the IP but I don't seem to be getting anywhere. Air bubbles are coming out of the pump but the level of fuel in the funnel just doesn't seem to be going down at all.

I'm now worried that perhaps my friend "w/ good intentions" might have reversed the fuel filter lines when he reconnected them.

Thanks for your help...

The 109... sheesh...

I had one that would go 15 miles, stall... It wouldn't start for about 5 minutes. Then, the rest of the day, it was fine. It took some doing to pin it down to the relay.

I'm glad you got it.

Franko6 said:

The 109... sheesh...

I had one that would go 15 miles, stall... It wouldn't start for about 5 minutes. Then, the rest of the day, it was fine. It took some doing to pin it down to the relay.

I'm glad you got it.

Click to expand...

It feels kinda stupid to pull some dumb relay and put it back in..... and it fires right up. But it sure felt good!

thanks so much for your help