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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old March 5th, 2017, 15:18   #1
Franko6
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sw Missouri
Default PD Rear Main Seal Install, No expensive tool

About 10 years ago, I got a phone call from one of my gearhead buddies that said he'd installed a rear main seal, with the dubious crank sensor that is part of the installation. He could not get the car to start. That was the time we both learned (for him, the hard way..) that the crank sensor had to be positioned correctly in order for the engine to start. Actually, we had done several of these seal installs without the Official T10134 tool before we realized there was such an item. When seeing the tool, I feel its a Rube Goldberg device. Way over-engineered and too complicated, for a job that just requires a good eye.

Here is my Red Neck Method that does not require a $250 tool in order to get the job done....

When you get the rear main seal kit, it should look like this. We are using a Victor Reinz.

When you remove the plastic holder, it exposes the hole in the crank sensor wheel...

Remove the crank sensor wheel from the crank seal tool...

Reinstall the seal tool into the rear main seal...

Align the seal so the tool is right at the very edge of the inner lip of the seal.

If you are installing this seal without removing the engine, be sure to dismount the hall's sensor from the old rear main seal and install it into the new seal, before installing the seal onto crank. Also, reach through the hole provided for the hall's sensor and pull the wiring through and attach onto the hall's sensor.

Center the seal tool and seal onto the crank shaft, being careful to push the seal cleanly over the crank shaft journal. Be careful that you do not turn the seal's edge over on itself.

Now, you have to bring the engine to TDC to finish the job. From the timing belt side of the engine, remove the serpentine belt and the 4 serpentine pulley bolts. You can now access the crank sprocket and the front flange, so you can install your crank timing lock.
With crank lock in place and crank properly timed, your crank will have one bolt that aligns at TDC on the Flywheel side..

Note that there is a mark on the new seal that will match in perfect alignment with the flywheel bolt hole.
Now, the only thing left to do is match the hole in the crank sensor, so you have three points of reference, like this:

If you want to be a real critic, the alignment of this picture is not 'perfect', but it is plenty close enough. With a small hammer, tap the seal onto the crank journal, being sure to get the alignment of the three points of reference to match. I do not drive the crank sensor completely flush, but leave it sticking out slightly. I let the flywheel finish the job of getting the crank sensor completely flat.

Just so you know, I believe I have gotten the sensor out of align maybe .5 degrees with no ill effect. Those of you who are purists, I am not suggesting you throw away your expensive tool, but for me, I have put in dozens of these seals and never had a 'no start' issue because of an incorrectly installed sensor.
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Last edited by Franko6; March 5th, 2017 at 15:34.
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Old March 6th, 2017, 11:30   #2
Ol'Rattler
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Great writeup Frank it should be a sticky.

When I went to a SMF at 55K miles and saw what was involve to change the RMS I went int a cold sweat and thoroughly inspected the RMS and since it didn't leak or even seep, I decided The RMS would be just fine until the next clutch replacement. At 180K it still does not leak.

For the purist, Chitty over at My Turbo Diesel does or did rent the RMS tool.

Something that everyone does, even the vendors is calling the timing tools "lock tools". As you and I know, they don't lock anything. They index the crank and cam to TDC and if you are DIR no load is ever put on them.

The reason I mentioned this is that a while back some kid wanted to remove his cam hub and wanted to use the cam tool to lock it down to break loose the hub bolt. I'm sure there are some that have ripped out the timing hole in their head by doing this.

Not nocking you in any way, you do some rely great things for us here.
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Last edited by Ol'Rattler; March 6th, 2017 at 12:08.
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Old March 6th, 2017, 11:34   #3
oilhammer
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I bucked up for the tool because it also works on other VAG engines, specifically the 2.5L inline 5 DOHC chain engines, and they have no such TDC lock for the front.

But I've already got the use out of my tool many times over, for one-time only DIYr Frank's method would certainly work just fine.
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Old March 7th, 2017, 16:33   #4
CoolAirVw
 
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Dont remove the yellow piece. Its there to line up the sensor reluctor. As you install it on the block it will be knocked off by part of the block at appropriate time.

Set the crank to TDC then install the seal with the yellow peice installed. Of course transfer the sensor.

I've replaced about a dozen that way since I made the post in the following link in 2015.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...ight=rear+main
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Last edited by CoolAirVw; March 19th, 2018 at 12:49.
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Old July 5th, 2018, 23:23   #5
Franko6
 
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I hadn't looked to this post for a while, but a customer was interested, so I did.
CoolAir; you revise a post a year later? I thought I agreed with your post before..

Now, we beg to differ with you CoolAirVw. At very least, you give the impression that the reluctor ring needs to stay in place when installing the seal. NOT ONLY is there no need to keep that reluctor ring in place or use that yellow 'alignment tool', but keeping the ring in place may prevent you from properly installing the teflon seal over the crank journal. Get the first part right and then, if you think you need the yellow pull tab, go ahead, but my eyeballs are more accurate than that yellow piece. It is more likely to get you off kilter than to get it in place properly. As I show, it is plenty easy enough to line up the dots.

We also prefer to use the seal install part that we keep around from the Elring or Reinz ALH rear main seals, as it centers the seal from the hub of the crankshaft and spreads the seal better and more centered than the device that comes with the usual BRM rear main seal.

This is the typical ALH rear main seal and it's install seal spreader:


The size of the ALH and the later PD's journal are exactly the same size, so the device works equally well for both applications.

This shows how it looks on the crankshaft, ready to push into place. Btw: we use a bit of high temperature RTV on the bottom of the seal housing, to be sure it doesn't leak from that point.


And last, something you will rarely see when installing this seal... how the seal is spread properly and centered to make the job very simple. If you look very closely, you can see the seal spreading tool makes the seal wider than the journal for an easy fit. The ring installer avoids the potential risk of folding the PTFE seal backwards when pushed into place.
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'02 80k grey leather, 99.5 R.I.P 153k
'85A2 NA 375k, '91 A3 290k Always Silver, Always a Jetta

Last edited by Franko6; July 5th, 2018 at 23:26.
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Old July 5th, 2018, 23:28   #6
Franko6
 
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For those who don't have this white plastic part, we kept a few dozen from ALH rear main seal jobs. We loan them with the other tooling, like timing tools or front seal replacement tooling.
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1007 Olive St.
Lockwood, MO 65682
417-232-4634
FranksTDIs@sbcglobal.net

'02 80k grey leather, 99.5 R.I.P 153k
'85A2 NA 375k, '91 A3 290k Always Silver, Always a Jetta
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Old September 12th, 2018, 23:31   #7
hajes
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We install seal yesterday on Octavia 2. Bolt hole on crankshaft doesn't mean it is in TDC and they don't need to be aligned - only holes on seal itself needs to be aligned.

We simply removed a cover from timing belt, turned engine approximately to the TDC according camshaft wheel. Removed alternator belt and aligned grooves on engine and crankshaft wheel (belt wheel). Be careful to check TDC aligment of wheel and engine block because camshaft turns twice compared to crankshaft because you can "alignment" twice...the wrong one is 180deg or 1. cylinder at bottom end.

This sort of alignment is only as good as your eye ;-)

Then you can install the seal.

Last edited by hajes; September 12th, 2018 at 23:33.
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Old September 13th, 2018, 16:11   #8
Franko6
 
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Hajes,

I think you are here to confuse the issue.

TDC is is aligned with the crank lock. At that point, there are three marks that align. One of them happens to be a crank bolt hole. Who cares if the crank turns twice? If the crank lock is installed and the cam pin is installed, you can't miss TDC. You confuse a very simple issue.
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1007 Olive St.
Lockwood, MO 65682
417-232-4634
FranksTDIs@sbcglobal.net

'02 80k grey leather, 99.5 R.I.P 153k
'85A2 NA 375k, '91 A3 290k Always Silver, Always a Jetta
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Old September 27th, 2018, 07:38   #9
hajes
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what I tried to say is with alignment of crankshaft such as by crank lock...bolt holes on crankshaft may be somewhere else as is on my car.

I have aligned seal and ring holes but crankshaft flange bolt is turned 2 grads for example. Or it is possible that something moved on timing belt side and it is all crap now :-D
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