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Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) The place of handling, lighting and other upgrades that do not relate to the performance or economy of the TDI engine. In other words upgrades to your TDI that don't fit into TDI Fuel Economy & TDI Engine Enhancements.Please note the Performance Disclaimer

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Old January 29th, 2019, 14:24   #16
Dayzedandkonfuzed
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I need to fool the ecm because the lights ground through it. When I check term 86 for power, grounding my voltmeter direct to the battery, I get 70mV, but if I ground my voltmeter in the factory socket ground, I get 12V. That tells me this is dependant on the ecm seeing ground. I'm going to ground my 85 terminals to the factory sockets tonight, I think that will fix this.
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Old January 29th, 2019, 17:07   #17
SilverSquirrel
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Good fun..
Reminds me of my 82 Scirocco that I owned in the early 90s.
I put 100w H1 bulbs in all 4 lamps. 10 gauge wires, right to the bulb terminals, 4 relays, 4 in line fuses, and 4 10g grounds right to the battery.
Had the yellow hella fogs on relays too...
High beams with all 4 flame throwers was WAY brighter than todays HID headlights... lol.
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Old January 29th, 2019, 18:17   #18
sandmansans
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Originally Posted by SilverSquirrel View Post
Good fun..

Reminds me of my 82 Scirocco that I owned in the early 90s.

I put 100w H1 bulbs in all 4 lamps. 10 gauge wires, right to the bulb terminals, 4 relays, 4 in line fuses, and 4 10g grounds right to the battery.

Had the yellow hella fogs on relays too...

High beams with all 4 flame throwers was WAY brighter than todays HID headlights... lol.
Ha yeah good times. I've got 100/130 h4 bulbs.....they're BRIGHT!!!

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Old January 30th, 2019, 09:45   #19
nokivasara
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayzedandkonfuzed View Post
lol, that is what I explained in the last post, which still didn't work.
And yes, both high and low worked fine with stock wiring and bulbs
Ok, I didn't realize you put the pass side 12V lead directly to 86 on the relay. No sockets or other wires in between. Use the same ground point that you used when you measured the voltage to be 12V.
If it still doesn't work I'd say that the car is cursed because that would be impossible...
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 09:18   #20
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Ok, still pulling my hair out.

Have both 85 terminals grounded to both factory headlight grounds. Have 86 terminals hooked up to low/high beam wires (seperately, of course) on BOTH sides of car. Bascially I have now wired the relays in place of the headlight sockets so the ecm sees power going out and back. Power to 30's is coming direct from battery, fused, separate for each relay. Headlight bulbs are grounded direct to battery.

High beams now work, except once they're on they won't turn off with the dimmer switch. I have to turn the headlight switch off and back on to return to low beam. When on low beam, my high beam indicator is dimly lit. Also, I'm only getting around 8V to the low beam relay (both 30 and 86 terminals) when probing the 85 terminal for ground, which in turn is only sending 8V to my bulbs. If I ground the voltmeter to battery, I see 12V at that relay. Obviously my issue is on the ground side. If I pull the low beam relay, high beams turn on and off as normal. Seems like a backfeeding issue, but I can't see where anything I've done could be backfeeding.

With only 8V to the relay, my low beams are basically non-existent. I think I could fix this by grounding the bulbs to the factory harness, but I'm worried about melting the factory wire, or worse, damaging the ecm.

I wish I had tested for voltage before I did any of this... My headlights were pretty bad before, so there could be a completely different underlying issue here. I pulled the headlight switch last night to disconnect the DRL's, and found it was already replaced with an auto wrecker switch. Also, the terminal for the DRL's on the switch was folded right over, so they haven't been connected this whole time. I bent it back straight but that did not change anything.
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 09:34   #21
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Try the DRL relay. See if you can locate it and turn it off (disable the points from touching) but leave it connected because it activates the e-brake indicator on the cluster (I just put some electrical tape between the points many years ago). It might be causing the issue with the lower voltage.

Do the DRL's come on when you release the handbrake? When you are taking all your readings. is the handbrake released or up? That was my trigger for the DRL's to come on. I didn't bend any of the tabs on the switch or disconnect anything there. I did put a euro switch in so I could run my fogs without the headlights. I was running HID's in the low beam spot and didn't want the lower voltage from the DRL's to mess up the ballasts. That's my reason for the DRL disable in the first place.
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 09:44   #22
Dayzedandkonfuzed
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Handbrake is down, and DRL's don't come on ever. At the moment my park brake doesn't work, so is there any harm in simply pulling this relay out for now?
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 09:51   #23
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I am not sure if pulling the relay would help but it is worth a try. Since that circuit is designed to supply lower voltage to your lights. Sounds like a good place to test.
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 10:03   #24
Dayzedandkonfuzed
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Originally Posted by PB_NB View Post
that circuit is designed to supply lower voltage to your lights.
Exactly why I'm leaning toward DRL's causing my trouble here. I get the feeling it may be regulating the voltage on the ground side. That is relay 173, right?

Also, VW wiring diagrams suck.
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 11:51   #25
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Originally Posted by Dayzedandkonfuzed View Post
Ok, still pulling my hair out.

Have both 85 terminals grounded to both factory headlight grounds. Have 86 terminals hooked up to low/high beam wires (seperately, of course) on BOTH sides of car. Bascially I have now wired the relays in place of the headlight sockets so the ecm sees power going out and back. Power to 30's is coming direct from battery, fused, separate for each relay. Headlight bulbs are grounded direct to battery.

High beams now work, except once they're on they won't turn off with the dimmer switch. I have to turn the headlight switch off and back on to return to low beam. When on low beam, my high beam indicator is dimly lit. Also, I'm only getting around 8V to the low beam relay (both 30 and 86 terminals) when probing the 85 terminal for ground, which in turn is only sending 8V to my bulbs. If I ground the voltmeter to battery, I see 12V at that relay. Obviously my issue is on the ground side. If I pull the low beam relay, high beams turn on and off as normal. Seems like a backfeeding issue, but I can't see where anything I've done could be backfeeding.

With only 8V to the relay, my low beams are basically non-existent. I think I could fix this by grounding the bulbs to the factory harness, but I'm worried about melting the factory wire, or worse, damaging the ecm.

I wish I had tested for voltage before I did any of this... My headlights were pretty bad before, so there could be a completely different underlying issue here. I pulled the headlight switch last night to disconnect the DRL's, and found it was already replaced with an auto wrecker switch. Also, the terminal for the DRL's on the switch was folded right over, so they haven't been connected this whole time. I bent it back straight but that did not change anything.
Oh, this is getting interesting! We don't have the same setup with handbrake and DRL's over here so I can't help with that.
8V is such a strange number to get too, surely the factory DRL voltage is lower than battery voltage to save the bulbs but not likely by that much, more like 11-12V or something?

I agree about the backfeeding, doesn't sound like something you could have caused.
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 12:04   #26
Dayzedandkonfuzed
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Originally Posted by nokivasara View Post
8V is such a strange number to get too, surely the factory DRL voltage is lower than battery voltage to save the bulbs but not likely by that much, more like 11-12V or something?
Looking at how bright they are, I think 8V might be right. They look about as bright as DRL's should be, but I could be wrong
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 12:34   #27
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Ok maybe that is normal for DRL's. They must be very dim, almost glowing?
How does that work, are you supposed to get 12V to the low/dipped beam when the light switch is i the low beam position?


I hope you get it sorted, sounds like the best option is to find the right way to disable the DRL's alltogether. I doubt there is any harm to that, we are mandated to use the low beams at all times. The lower voltage is probably just to increase the lifetime of the bulbs.
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Old February 2nd, 2019, 12:40   #28
Dayzedandkonfuzed
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Originally Posted by nokivasara View Post
Ok maybe that is normal for DRL's. They must be very dim, almost glowing?
How does that work, are you supposed to get 12V to the low/dipped beam when the light switch is i the low beam position?
Yes headlight switch 'should' supply full voltage. And at 8V, they are almost orange and barely noticeable driving home at night lol. Good thing I live 50 miles from work
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Old February 7th, 2019, 15:50   #29
Dayzedandkonfuzed
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Pulled the DRL relay, still nothing. However I did find some broken solder inside that relay, guess I know why the DRLs don't work.
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Old February 7th, 2019, 17:12   #30
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Never trust google image results. This has the high beam and ground backwards. So do many other pictures from google images. Man I feel dumb lol. As soon as I found a good wiring diagram for these I saw the problem right away. Haven't swapped the wires yet but I will tonight and hopefully have proper headlights again!

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