EGR cooler delete, auto vs 5 speed

I'm looking into deleting my EGR cooler. Its an 03 ALH that used to be an auto and is now a 5 speed.
Why wont this work on an ALH that used to have an auto:
https://www.idparts.com/egr-cooler-coolant-bypass-kit-a4-alh-speed-p-2170.html
I see on this site that they have an auto specific kit and that the hose is different. It also doesn't have the straight coolant hose adapter. Why is this not needed for auto or previously auto ALH's?
I've narrowed down the coolant hose for the auto kit to be part# 1J0122157P and if you see the picture on ECS tuning, it comes with a coolant bracket. Is this needed as well?
Finally, I assume I will loose a bit of coolant. Would any of you advise to have some on hand to top off or would it be wiser to do a coolant flush at this point? Coolant age is unknown to me.

The coolant flange from manual to auto is not the same and the steel pipe that routes over the trans is different also. That’s probably the difference in the kits. Def isn’t a bad idea to flush it out.

I have an "02 Golf, converted auto > manual. I deleted the entire EGR system, including the ASV (automatic stop valve). This was at the same time as installing a PD150 air intake manifold. I did get a" race pipe"
that replaces the valve/asv assembly.

I got a SS pipe nipple and joined the 2 coolant hoses that were the inlet &
outlet for the cooler. Be aware with this complete delete, should you have
a runaway turbo ( a rare event), you can no longer shut off the air to the engine with the asv, (turn the key off). You have to stall the motor out.
Shift the car into fifth and brake with clutch out.

Depending on emissions inspections, you may fail without the stock pollution control equipment in place. No diesel emissions testing here in PA.

Not quite what you're asking for, but it may help in understanding the system, and a possible workaround.

Can you take a photo of your egr cooler on ALH ? im going to instal it on my ASV and i would like to see how are those pipes conected on cooling system. Thank you

source said:

Can you take a photo of your egr cooler on ALH ? im going to instal it on my ASV and i would like to see how are those pipes conected on cooling system. Thank you

Click to expand...

it is in the heater hose coming from the cylinder head
steam barb is teed into the steam line running to the coolant reservoir

If you like heat in the winter, leave the EGR alone.

Auto and 5 speed use the same cooler, just use a different coolant outlet on the head due to the auto having a cooler.

"If you like heat in the winter, leave the EGR alone."

I beg to differ, my deleted system heats within <10 minutes. The key here
I believe is a properly working thermostat, which is rarely replaced on the TDI. It fails open so the motor doesn't overheat, but doesn't respond to closing when it should. People don't see the temperature going over spec, so they assume the thermostat is fine.

This means it doesn't regulate the temperature of the coolant, it's stuck on full flow.
Car is slow to generate heat, and when on the highway at a constant speed,
should actually be restricting flow. Our temperature gauges are notoriously
inaccurate. After replacing the temperature sensor, with no effect, I did the thermostat and was amazed that my heater core is putting out heat by the time the gauge is to the 4th hashmark, the fan on the 1st setting, only halfway to 190. Warmup time is greatly reduced. Do take the motor to
3krpm in that period. People seem to think our diesels need to babied.
Operate them at 2-4k rpm , they love it IMO!

Get the dynamic idle tune also.

Rrusse11 said:

"If you like heat in the winter, leave the EGR alone."

I beg to differ, my deleted system heats within <10 minutes. The key here
I believe is a properly working thermostat, which is rarely replaced on the TDI. It fails open so the motor doesn't overheat, but doesn't respond to closing when it should. People don't see the temperature going over spec, so they assume the thermostat is fine.

This means it doesn't regulate the temperature of the coolant, it's stuck on full flow.
Car is slow to generate heat, and when on the highway at a constant speed,
should actually be restricting flow. Our temperature gauges are notoriously
inaccurate. After replacing the temperature sensor, with no effect, I did the thermostat and was amazed that my heater core is putting out heat by the time the gauge is to the 4th hashmark, the fan on the 1st setting, only halfway to 190. Warmup time is greatly reduced. Do take the motor to
3krpm in that period. People seem to think our diesels need to babied.
Operate them at 2-4k rpm , they love it IMO!

Click to expand...

Beg to differ, I and others have proven this point until we are blue in the face. A rare one comes thru that gets heat without egr, most will suffer in cold weather. How cold is it where you live?

My BEW was awful in the winter with no egr, took forever to warm up, almost got rid of the car until I figured it out. With egr working again, full temp in 10 minutes, SAME new OEM thermostat. Same with ALH's, but they do warm up faster without egr then my BEW, but still nothing compared to a properly working egr system.

Heat by the 4th hashmark? With EGR, I have heat without the needle moving. I drive the same route everyday, so its easy to compare before and after.

"Beg to differ, I and others have proven this point until we are blue in the face. A rare one comes thru that gets heat without egr, most will suffer in cold weather. How cold is it where you live?"

20f around here is cold, so compared to some, not really that chilly.
Still, I stand by my experience that a good working thermostat makes all
the difference on an ALH with an EGR delete. The spring gets weaks over time and heat.

Full egr system here operating at 190° within 15 minutes in 10° weather. Maybe 6-8 minutes until blowing warm with or without frost heater start. Old thermostat wouldn’t make it to temp at all ever. These results are with All coolant glow plugs having broken off wires. 2500 rpm shifts until 160° then 3000 rpm shifts which really warm up the car. If the heat is run before 160° coolant temp, it may not reach operating temp in 15 minutes.