2005 tdi beetle lower power

Sorry for the long post,but here is the issue. I have a 2005 beetle with a bew, my father has an identical 2004 beetle bew and there is a definite power difference. His car is way stronger, I has checked torsion value on both, and they are -.5, neither car shows reflashes in vagcom, all boost references actual and requested are the same, maf numbers are equal.

My 2005 seems low on power, my car will bust off the 1-2 shift like his then my car starts going high rpms. My car is shifting at 4,500 rpm. My fathers car shift around 3500. Both cars have new dsg transmissions.

We have been side by side and his car will leave mine sitting there.

Here is what I know- no check engine lights, billet steel camshaft and lifters 5000 miles ago, fresh filters, just cleaned egr, my car makes 16lbs of boost, new asv valve, new in tank lift pump,car has 220,000 miles, my fathers has 210,000.

Both cars go 600+ miles on a tank of fuel.

Any help is appreciated

Btw my catalytic converters was clogged a few thousand miles ago, had melted. It has been remedied.
I have tried unplugging maf and made no difference, had a bad vacuum leak at pump, have since fixed which restored some power and braking, but still no there power wise.

When the car goes past 3 thousand rpms it start to crawl, when my fathers car clicks off the gear and rpms are a snap

My car runs perfect if throttle is 1/8th or less. Anything over that the shift are delayed

Bump. Any ideas?

ktmkris said:

Bump. Any ideas?

Click to expand...

Check that the linkage on the turbo vanes has full travel. Should move almost an inch. Disconnect the actuator and work the vane linkage with your hand to see if it moves easily. I found it easier to take out the two 10mm bolts on the actuator mounts than disconnect the actuator linkage.

I recently had an 04 that would have no power on the hills. Turned out to be the turbo linkage stop screw had no nut to hold it in place which let the stop screw thread itself up and effectively severely limited the linkage travel. Once I adjusted the stop screw and put a nut on it. All was good. Also check the actuator with a vacuum pump to make sure it holds vacuum and has good smooth travel. Do this while you have the mount bolts out.

dweisel

Both cars have new DSG transmissions? I'd be curious as to the reason for that. And are they both the same one? You said something about gear changes and RPM differences. If you go into Tip mode, is there any appreciable difference? Is there any visible smoke?

I would check for the split port intake runner control function. If half of the intake port never gets opened up as it should, that'll reduce power over 3k RPM for sure. And while the ECU controls it, it does not monitor it... as there is no position sensor for it. It is the little vacuum servo mounted down low under the intake flap motor.

Dweisel my car had a transmission change from previous owner. Car had a bad dmf and a transmission shop did a full rebuild, I gained from that. My fathers car was having shifting issues and a transmission shop swapped his dsg out with a new one. Still wouldn’t shift, I checked it out and found a bad abs sensor. Replaced it and all is good. I have always done mechanical work but not on vw’s till the last two years. I now have vagcom, have done timing belts on 2.0, 1.9 and 1.8s, cam swap, axles and so on. My car goes nowhere for work.


Oilhammer, I believe you may be on to something. I was planning on removing the intake to check it out. That seems to be exactly what my car is doing. When there is no demand for air it is fine, when I throttle down there is smoke.

It may be a week before I have time to check on it but I will let you know for sure

Oilhammer, do I need the flappers in the intake? I had a diesel mercedes and when it had flapper issues you could just make them stick open and not worry about them anymore. Should I put effort into making it work again or just remove them?

If I had a BEW, this is what I would do:

Ditch the troublesome Modine EGR cooler.

Ditch the silly two piece intake and put a PD130 unit on there, one that allows retention of the stock throttle flap if possible.

Put a Garrett VNT17 on there.

RC2 software.

That combo is seriously one of the best running 1.9L TDIs ever.

But if you want, you can take the intake off, take it apart and take out the flappers.

thank you again oilhammer

oilhammer said:

If I had a BEW, this is what I would do:
Ditch the troublesome Modine EGR cooler.
Ditch the silly two piece intake and put a PD130 unit on there, one that allows retention of the stock throttle flap if possible.
Put a Garrett VNT17 on there.
RC2 software.
That combo is seriously one of the best running 1.9L TDIs ever.
But if you want, you can take the intake off, take it apart and take out the flappers.

Click to expand...

As an expert on these engines, what would your recommendations along these lines be for the ALH?

McGuillicuddy said:

As an expert on these engines, what would your recommendations along these lines be for the ALH?

Click to expand...

Probably one step up injector nozzles (properly set up by someone with the equipment to do so), RC1+ or maybe RC2, the stock VNT15 is perfectly fine as it is, but the Garrett VNT17 is certainly nice too. The ALH is fine with the EGR still there, those coolers never fail so it really doesn't matter. And last but not least: 11mm pump.

I am not a fan of big crazy power mods only because I think you lose some of the driveability of the car, necessitate a much stronger clutch, and sometimes tax some other things beyond a reasonable level of trouble free operation. I am still a daily driver TDI guy. No sense in losing the best of what makes these cars so good. If you want to go crazy fast, buy a VR6 or Golf R or something.

Oilhammer, I did clean the intake manifold and removed the butterflies. The butterflies were nearly stuck close. I could make them open by hand but the vacuum couldn’t. I also removed the egr cooler and the butterfly in it was stuck open. Everything was reassembled minus egr system. Car runs way smoother. Still doesn’t have the top end I would like to se. I can move turbo rod by hand, but seems like it is awake hard to move that way. How easily should the rod move? It has made a huge difference already and I want to thank you for your help.

Sorry for the dumb stuff- Did you check for stored codes? If there are no stored codes, that should tell us something.
Stick with oilhammer, he will get you there.

I thought the vacuum closes the butterfly valves. They default to the open position; or so I thought based on some very ancient thread here. I disconnected and plugged the vacuum hose to the actuator that controls them.

The turbo actuator should be able to move freely when vacuum is applied. You can as a test bypass the N75 valve on the firewall and put straight vacuum to the VNT actuator and see that it moves all the way to its stop. I know this is kind of tricky to get at on the NB.

BobnOH said:

Sorry for the dumb stuff- Did you check for stored codes? If there are no stored codes, that should tell us something.
Stick with oilhammer, he will get you there.

Click to expand...

I have vagcom, Foxwell vw scanner and autel maxidas. There are no soft or hard codes.

JB05 said:

I thought the vacuum closes the butterfly valves. They default to the open position; or so I thought based on some very ancient thread here. I disconnected and plugged the vacuum hose to the actuator that controls them.

Click to expand...

When I removed intake the butterflies were shut. There was a thick buildup or burnt oil/carbon. I made them open by hand, but you could see after I did that there was a bunch of that buildup that scraped off. So either way they were stuck shut.

oilhammer and others, problem is now fixed. I went over all the vacuum lines yet again. this time with the engine running. I made sure to touch them everywhere. I had a super tiny hole in the main line coming out of the vacuum pump. Hit it with some electrical tape till I can get a new one and car runs perfectly. I had already jb welded the nipple/fitting in the vacuum pump, the little hole was where the vacuum line was touching a coolant line.

Outstanding! Thanks for posting back!

by pass N75

oilhammer said:

The turbo actuator should be able to move freely when vacuum is applied. You can as a test bypass the N75 valve on the firewall and put straight vacuum to the VNT actuator and see that it moves all the way to its stop. I know this is kind of tricky to get at on the NB.

Click to expand...

Hello Oilhammer

So, you suggested by passing the N75, do you mean while testing with the Vacuum Pump or in a driving test. Disconnect the N75 - while running or what?

Michael Patrick