CV Boots/Axle

dupp

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 1999
Location
Oxford, MS
Was changing the oil on my '96 Passat TDI wagon (146K) yesterday and noticed the pass side inner CV boot is split and throwing grease.

Am looking at replacing CV boots (on both sides, all 4) or going for the CV axles in the wagon.

Am leaning toward the whole axles as I wish to keep the wagon for another 150K and feel this falls under normal maintenance.

Anybody out there taken on the task, have a price on replacement axles? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Mike
 

brian

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2000
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI (sold)
Call vwparts.com and ask them. When I did they wanted my VIN# to be sure they were quoting me the right part #'s.

Brian
 

Bookerdog

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2001
Location
St. Louis, MO
TDI
2000 Golf GL TDI - BLACK
It's really not that bad a job. Just be sure to break loose the hub nuts while the car is still on the ground. 30MM nut that will require a serious breaker bar (I use a 5 foot pipe) to break it loose. I'd recommend replacing those hub nuts if they don't come with the half shaft.

You'll need a special 12 point star key do get off the bolts that join the innner CV to the tranny. Don't recall the size, but someone here will jump in and help you out. I got my key from a local auto parts store. You'll probably have to spin the axle a couple of times to loosen all the inner bolts.

Not sure about the Passat, but on the older Jettas, you need to loosen the bolts that hold on the lower ball joint to get enough room for the axle shaft to drop out. You should mark the location with some White Out, as these bolts are the camber adjustment for the alignment. Even if you mark them, you may want to have an alignment done after you finish the job.

Doing both sides is good Preventative Maintenance, at 146K you're nearing the end of normal life for these things. There's been some talk around here about the quality of rebuilt CV's vs. new CV's. A rebuild means they just got an old core, ground out the surfaces and put in larger bearings. I've always used rebuilts on my cars, but be sure that if you buy a rebuilt shaft that it has a lifetime warantee. I've had one rebuilt CV in 10 die in a relatively short timespan (15K miles). Still though, I thought the extra work of replacing the bad one was less expensive than the extra $$$ from buying new CVs.

Prices can vary wildly, so call around a LOT to find the best deal. Heck, AutoZone's site is showing a remanufactured half shaft for $60 with a $55 core charge, and I know they've got a lifetime warantee, that's where I've always gotten mine. You should try Adirondack ([url]www.germanautoparts.com)[/url] Call 'em if it's not on their site. And, try calling around your local area parts stores too.
 

Metalnerd

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 14, 2000
Location
Greensburg, PA, USA
TDI
96 Passat TDI Storm Grey
My '96 had the same boot torn last week and I decided to change out the entire inner joint. The inner joint with boot kit ran ~$90 from www.germanautoparts.com With guidance from our club Brethren, I was able to remove the pass. side shaft from the inside (and avoid balljoint separation) but you have to remove the 2 lower strut bolts to gain enough clearance. Mark the lower strut location by scribe to minimize your re-alignment requirements. Removal of the massive steel block vibration dampener makes things easier too. By turning the steering wheel to the right and some weaseling, you can extract the shaft in this manner.

I am not sure if there is room to do this on the driver's side. The inners come off easily via a circlip but the outers may require force to drive them off. I did the inner joint piecemeal to save $$.
 

tadc

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 13, 2001
Location
Stumptown
TDI
Golf GLS TDI, '01, Black
Any clue why the shafts are so damn expensive? Cuz it's a new car? I mean CV joints haven't changed much in the last 30 years have they?

I had a rebuilt shaft put in my 78 Rabbit a few years back for under 100 bucks INSTALLED.
 

artie b

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2001
Location
zip code 46371
TDI
97 B4 TDI stock, have owned and repaired 4 B4 TDI's since 1996
autozone 79.95 exchange passenger side with rubber dampner. I put it on in about 45 min. this Aug. need special internal 8 point socket K-D tool about 15. -20.00 a couple years ago. Be careful with the sway bar link mine twisted off on my 96 Passat. I pulled the pinch bolt from the lower ball joint and pryed the hub assem. up against the lower control arm then pulled hub, rotor,caliper out of the way. Then with about 3' of 3/8ths ext. to get to the inner cv bolts. be sure to clean these internal socket bolts out and drive the tool in , not fun if you strip the bolt. Good luck
 

Lug_Nut

TDIClub Enthusiast, Pre-Forum Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 20, 1998
Location
Sterling, Massachusetts. USA
TDI
idi: 1988 Bolens DGT1700H, the other oil burner: 1967 Saab Sonett II two stroke
Unbolt from the strut rather than the lower joint. Bigger bolts, wrench on both sides, no boot to damage, no taper that spins if the nut doesn't come off, no realignment needed.
I used a standard 6 mm allen wrench to pull the inner driver bolts. Only after crawling out and looking did I realize that they are 12 point bolts.
My "remanufactured" axles were sloppier than the worn shafts I was replacing, no rubber damper on the right side shaft, incorrect preload on the thrust cone washer, incorrectly seated / damaged snap rings, easily scratched / insufficiently hardened balls.
I replaced only the worse parts on my right side with the bad parts I had bought and returned the complete left side axle I purchased as defective.
When either side goes bad again I WILL use new VW parts. I'd prefer to pay a lot one time rather than remanufacture a remanufactured part and still have questions about durability.
 

PSeyle

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2001
Location
Riverside, CA
TDI
96 Passat Black
Why do you think you need to replace this? Just bacause the rubber went bad? If it just went bad you are OK. If you've been off-roading and getting sandy grit in the torn boot, you most likely will have a problem.

I suggest a tear down of your CV joint and inspect for wear. (does it make clanking clunking sounds when you turn corners?) Unless it makes noises and looks real bad, I suggest a very through cleaning then regrease with a new boot (<$15 USD for a good German made kit). Since the halfshaf will be off, I'd suggest a cleaning and regreasing with a new boot on the other end too. (although the outer will wearout before the inner every time).

Sure poping in a rebuilt halfshaft would be easier and cleaner, but you have know idea what the history on that shaft is. (Why did it die BEFORE yours did?)

As Bookerdog said:
".A rebuild means they just got an old core, ground out the surfaces and put in larger bearings.

This is true, it make um weaker. Stick with the real stuff. Clean um and use um. I've done it many times.

-Preston
96 Passat TDI

*Also* - clean the CV greas out of the inside of your rim. It can make your wheel out of balance and create a rough ride or even mess up a tire.
 
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