300hp build for 99 beetle

EDIT of original post: I re-read it and it was hard to follow, so here's my re-try. Also, the 200hp part in the title should say 300hp (can a mod fix that?)

Depending on how much you can control with a tune, my future plans are:

40-45mm turbo - if it can be tuned to not throw any codes, or at least not interfere with other electronic processes. Otherwise I'll have to find the biggest straight drop in charger possible. Still researching. I'd love to throw on my extra hx35, but I don't think that would spool till about 5k on this thing.

EGR "mod" is ready to be started, just need the time

Upgraded 5spd - still learning the options for this, maybe cryo?

port the head and manifolds

Rods/pistons - If way more than what I hope these cost, I'll have to cut back on the power to 200hp or so, and just be happy with that.

Lots of fuel

Ideas welcome. I'm willing to put some money into this as I know it will be fun as hell once completed.

300hp to the wheels will cost a ton of money. Good luck, it'd be cool as hell.

2260vk
biggest injectors money can buy
Head work
Rods and pistons (can the ALH block even support this?)
11mm pump (12? 13?) and lift pump
Giggle gas? Propane?
Storm drain sized intake and exhaust systems.
Tuning.
Cam

get a gtb1756vk turbo from ryanp. good for as much as 230 hp on an alh. you could limit the boost so as produce only 200 hp. easier on the engine, and the turbo.

dieselfuel said:

get a gtb1756vk turbo from ryanp. good for as much as 230 hp on an alh. you could limit the boost so as produce only 200 hp. easier on the engine, and the turbo.

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I wrote that down. That's the perfect fall back plan I was looking for! Thanks!

otbBlaine said:

300hp to the wheels will cost a ton of money. Good luck, it'd be cool as hell.

2260vk
biggest injectors money can buy
Head work
Rods and pistons (can the ALH block even support this?)
11mm pump (12? 13?) and lift pump
Giggle gas? Propane?
Storm drain sized intake and exhaust systems.
Tuning.
Cam

Click to expand...

Making power will be the easier part I think. Like you mentioned, im worried about the block and internals. Thanks for the lisrt!

otbBlaine said:

300hp to the wheels will cost a ton of money. Good luck, it'd be cool as hell.

2260vk
biggest injectors money can buy
Head work
Rods and pistons (can the ALH block even support this?)
11mm pump (12? 13?) and lift pump
Giggle gas? Propane?
Storm drain sized intake and exhaust systems.
Tuning.
Cam

Click to expand...

Making power will be the easier part I think. Like you mentioned, im worried about the block and internals. Thanks for the list!

ALH is good for 200 hp with stock internals. Any more, and you increase the risk of engine damage.

IIRC, Jettagirl had an ALH that had stock internals and dyno'd a bit over 200 hp (210 hp or so). That tdi was run on a track (track only, I believe).

I was with a couple of fellow tdi'ers one evening. One had 180 hp, and the other had 200 hp (both ALH engines). Those two raced a couple of times on our way home from a GTG.

An hour and a half later, while cruising home at a comfortable 70 mph, the 200 hp engine threw a rod through the oil pan.

I don't remember if that engine had stock internals or not. I believe it did, but not sure.

I'm not trying to scare you. I'm just trying to make a point that the more hp, the more stress on an engine, a a shortening of the engine life, if run hard.

Keep us informed. ;>)

df

JG has a BRM. Every ALH I've seen above 200whp eventually got built internals. Some out of necessity, some out of precaution.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

I definitely understand the need for internals. That's why I keep saying if rods are too much, then i'll limit it to 200hp.

What are crank and pistons good to? At what point does the head need studs? What about mains?

You shouldnt go over 160 whp with stock internals. You can...but most are sorry they did.

mrchill said:

You shouldnt go over 160 whp with stock internals. You can...but most are sorry they did.

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For a long lasting engine i totally agree.

Deleted.

Never mind...! lol!

df

Ryan, how much torque did he make with that setup?

Chris and Justin, would you say torque is more of the determining factor?

No...cylinder pressure. Which is in a way a function of power...which is exacerbated with rpm...ie hp.

otbBlaine said:

300hp to the wheels will cost a ton of money.

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That and it probably won't last very long. Also the 02J 5 speed transmission is isn't the best box for tons of torque so you'll have to a budget for a transmission as well.

mrchill said:

No...cylinder pressure. Which is in a way a function of power...which is exacerbated with rpm...ie hp.

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My rod bearings found that out the hard way..

It won't last long unless you reduce CR

Compression reduction is one avenue toward reducing cylinder pressure...and certainly the most common even with OEM's. But there are other ways. And more importantly...one must ascertain exactly what is happening when the engine fails. Not all fail the same way or for the same reasons.

mrchill said:

You shouldnt go over 160 whp with stock internals. You can...but most are sorry they did.

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Basic question: what would this equal in bhp? ~ 185bhp?

greengeeker said:

Basic question: what would this equal in bhp? ~ 185bhp?

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I'd guess 185-190 chp that would equate to 15-20% drive line losses.

I have plenty of customers driving between 200-300+hp with stock bottoms.
Also I have personally driven ~100 000km with 194hp ALH without issues, but it was mainly road driving with little full pedal driving.

When engine is constantly driven hard, I have seen issues with valves as exhaust may get lot of heat and it makes its life shorter.
Also cylinder pressures are high at max "throttle" and cylinders / pistons / rings will have shorter life span.

If rods do not bend, usually fatigue stress comes from high RPMs and time..
But I have not seen yet rod failures.
Though one of my friends have been testing and stated that above 300hp stock rods start bending, but I do not know for sure.

MarkoP said:

I have plenty of customers driving between 200-300+hp with stock bottoms.
Also I have personally driven ~100 000km with 194hp ALH without issues, but it was mainly road driving with little full pedal driving.

When engine is constantly driven hard, I have seen issues with valves as exhaust may get lot of heat and it makes its life shorter.
Also cylinder pressures are high at max "throttle" and cylinders / pistons / rings will have shorter life span.

If rods do not bend, usually fatigue stress comes from high RPMs and time..
But I have not seen yet rod failures.
Though one of my friends have been testing and stated that above 300hp stock rods start bending, but I do not know for sure.

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So you are saying to leave the bottom end alone? Stock pistons and rods?

madmikeismad said:

So you are saying to leave the bottom end alone? Stock pistons and rods?

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For a 200hp-250hp and RPMs kept below 4500rpm I would say yes.
But if your looking for 300hp and more and constantly rotating to 5000rpm or more, then new rods should be a good safety factor.

Its cheaper to build bottom end too robust than to blow up whole engine.

MarkoP said:

For a 200hp-250hp and RPMs kept below 4500rpm I would say yes.
But if your looking for 300hp and more and constantly rotating to 5000rpm or more, then new rods should be a good safety factor.

Its cheaper to build bottom end too robust than to blow up whole engine.

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Marko, our VE TDIs here don't last very long over 200 BHP with stock rods. You guys got stronger TDIs than us.

No we just use larger turbos and less torque at 2000rpm than you

hatemi said:

No we just use larger turbos and less torque at 2000rpm than you

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Sounds like a tuning problem then here?

EDIT: Some tune for massive low-end torque, some don't.

MarkoP said:

I have plenty of customers driving between 200-300+hp with stock bottoms.
Also I have personally driven ~100 000km with 194hp ALH without issues, but it was mainly road driving with little full pedal driving.

When engine is constantly driven hard, I have seen issues with valves as exhaust may get lot of heat and it makes its life shorter.
Also cylinder pressures are high at max "throttle" and cylinders / pistons / rings will have shorter life span.

If rods do not bend, usually fatigue stress comes from high RPMs and time..
But I have not seen yet rod failures.
Though one of my friends have been testing and stated that above 300hp stock rods start bending, but I do not know for sure.

Click to expand...

Sounds like your 300hp = our 200hp

I have tested many different hp\tq levels and my statement still stands. If it is a rotary pump car, which is what the OP is talking about...upgrades are in order for the power level he desires. Bigger turbos do reduce some torque....and a bit of PCP...but in the end...the HG will leak and the rods will bend at the HP\TQ levels we are discussing. I have exactly 2 clients with stock engines who ran the 200whp level without issues....and a tremendous number who had to build stronger. Send me one of your 300hp engines that is rotary pump and I will pay for the shipping to and from if it lives at that power level.

There is no over 300bhp rotary pump engine in Finland with stock internals. But we have over 300bhp pd100 engine with stock bottom end.

We can do that here.....but this thread is about rotary pump engines.

What about compound turbos? I was thinking of maybe using my old hx35 along with the stock vnt15. How common is that? Good for an easy 300hp, will still spool close to stock, and will come make more "usable" street horsepower.

So first, I gotta find a set of rods and pistons. Then get the head done, then pump/injectors, then throw the 2nd charger on.