Halogen to HID. DeAutoKey, Morimoto, & Ed's Replica Golf R lights

I know there are some posts about headlights out there and I wanted to make an easy to search thread about my experience in case anyone else wants to upgrade their lights.

I did the buyback for my 2010 JSW and got a 2015 GSW S. I'm happy with it, except the lights. I didn't want to pay for the SE package and then for the lighting package. After 3 months, here's what I learned:

I been reading forums and doing searches. I seen a ton of posts by DeAutoKey heavily promoting the H7RC: http://deautokey.com/product/mk7-gt...kit-full-set-including-adapters-and-resistors It was the least invasive option so I decided to try it. The ballast comes with the canbus built in so that's pretty nice.

Thoughts: The golf7 version cost 145 vs 125 for the normal version. It's $20 more for the mk7 headlight adapter. Not an issue, but for $20, I expected it to work better. You have to line up the bulb just right in the adapter. Then you try to put it in the OEM housing and turn to lock it in and have the pins touch to provide power to the adapter wires. The H7RC bulb doesn't stay exactly in the same spot as you put it in and it will not go in all the way for the pins to make contact with the housing. There will be no power for the ballast and it will give a bulb out error. I tried for an hour to get it in and it was the most frustrating thing ever. Unhappy with VW for the difficult design. Also unhappy with the adapter provided by DeAutoKey for $20. Take the bumper off and unscrew the halogen housing. Once it is removed, get some adhesive bonding tape to get the H7RC to stick to the adapter. Then you can push it in all the way and make contact for the power pins.

Once installed, the H7RC lights up the road like the stock housing but brighter. It does work as advertised. It was a strange color, even after the bulb burned in. I got a 5000K bulb and wished they had a 4300K. The light is greenish. It's like a 6000K bulb with a little yellow added in. It's kinda weird like when people get blue covers for their halogens bulbs. I recommend others get the 6000K bulb for a more natural color.

The weird 5000K color bothered me enough to get Ed's replicas: https://www.becautoparts.com/ I got them for $480. They may go lower for black friday coming up. I love the morimoto bulbs I used for years but I can't use them on reflector housings so the only option is to get HID projector retrofits so I can use morimoto H7 4300K bulbs. I got mine from the retrofit source: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems-15/hid-systems-universal/h7-morimoto-elite.html They have excellent customer service and this is the 3rd set I purchased from them (for 3 different cars). They have high quality products and I recommend them highly. They also do black friday sales so you may want to wait a little before getting from them. The new bulbs are 4500K, but it looks the same as the 4300K in my other car.

Here is a picture of the install:


Ed's on right and DeAutoKey H7RC in OEM housing on left. Note the greenish color around the edge of the left. It has a strange tint I don't like.

Ed's replicas come aimed high and to the center. I looked for adjustment info everywhere but couldn't find it. I emailed Ed and he sent me this picture:



After adjusting it just right, the beam pattern is awesome! It is so much brighter than the stock halogen housing even with the H7RC HID. It spreads light across the floor everywhere.



I had to turn down the brightness on the camera to show what the Morimotos look like and they have a very nice color. It is a little yellow compared to the DRL but it is very nice from the driver seat

The not so good part of Ed's lights:





You can see the individual DRL LEDs in the U. Most pictures show it blown out so you can't see them. In real life you can definitely see them. Every time I roll up to a stop sign, I see it in the reflection through the car in front of me, especially if they have any chrome in the back.

The install was plug and play. No VCDS or coding at all. It just works for halogen plugs. If you have halogens, you have 2 options:

1. Keep the stock OEM housing and get the DeAutoKey H7RC. They work as advertised. They are a pain to install. They are brighter than the stock halogens and everything they claim on their website is true. No glare for oncoming drivers. They are HIDs that work well in reflectors. Strange color for 5000K. Not very happy about that. Kept bugging me.

2. Buy Ed's replicas. Don't get Helix, winpower, or the other ones. Get Ed's. They are $480 but worth it. I wish the DRLs looked nicer, like the stock LED DRL for the Golf but it cost a lot more (several thousands more). Then you can get awesome Morimotos (TRS is where I got mine)

3. Get the morimotos and put them in stock reflector housing. Do not do this. They will blind others. Is it worth the $480 to use the morimotos? after going through everything, my answer is yes. The morimotos H7 is way better than halogen, deautokey, and anyother bulb I used in the past. It's worth changing housings to allow these bulbs.

Nice write up, thanks !

Darth- Thanks for posting the comparison and your thoughts. I'm sure a lot of owners will find it helpful.

Some quick Q's:

For the DRL's in Ed's replicas, your complaint is that the individual LEDs are visible, instead of an LED tube effect?

Also, can you just clarify this a bit:

Darth_Furious said:

I love the morimoto bulbs I used for years but I can't use them on reflector housings so the only option is to get HID projector retrofits so I can use morimoto H7 4300K bulbs. I got mine from the retrofit source: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems-15/hid-systems-universal/h7-morimoto-elite.html

Click to expand...

Thx.

hskrdu said:

Some quick Q's:

For the DRL's in Ed's replicas, your complaint is that the individual LEDs are visible, instead of an LED tube effect?

Also, can you just clarify this a bit.

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Yes, I see individual LEDs and it is a perforated look. German cars (Audi, VW, Mercedes, BMW) have drls that have the LED tube effect and look high end. It seems like a continuous beam across the line. My complaint is that it is noticeable from far away and somewhat obvious they aren't OEM but a Chinese replica. They have a blue, cooler look, like 6000k. I drove by a golf with OEM led and they look a tad warmer, like just under 5000k. They are quite bluish. It's the overall cheaper look when I wish it looked high end. Still happy with them and better than halogen housings. Also recommend them to others, just don't expect it to look the same as OEM leds.

If you buy HID bulbs and stick them in reflector housings made for halogen (like my stock ones), they will scatter light everywhere. Currently, my replica lights have a sharp cut off at another cars bumper. At a red light behind another car I see the bumper in front lit up. The license plate has the bottom edge lit up. If you put your head down there, it will blind you. I drive by dogs and it blinds them. If your head is above the bumper, you will not be blinded. On coming traffic will not be blinded. These projectors can focus light like that.

HIDs generate light at a different focus point and it reflects at different angles than halogen. In a halogen reflector, it will reflect light at a higher angle. Now I can be standing way above the bumper and the light is shining in my eyes from the reflectors. Where I'm from, I drive by honda civics with HIDs in the stock halogen reflectors and they blind me with their bluish light at night. Maybe you seen these people too.that is why HIDs require special housing for them.

I have the same setup on my MK7. I like Ed's lights and the Morimoto's very much. I had Ed's on my MK6 and no issues.

I would have preferred to buy a MK7 with the light package though.

This is the second best option!

Aren't the high beams on the Ed's halogens? How well do they work with the lows being HID? I'd be concerned that the high beams would be weak in relation to the lows.

I have the lighting package on my GTI, and the high beams are terrific. Nice and bright, aimed very high, and of course they corner around turns which is incredibly helpful out here in the sticks where I live.

Your gti has bi-xenon lights meaning the HID bulb is both low beam and can lower the cutoff shield to shine higher as a high beam light. It's an excellent system to do 2-in-1 with a bright HID bulb.

Ed's replicas have bi-xenon as well for the HID. At night, the cutoff shield drops and you get the HID bi-xenon as high beams as well as halogen high beams. It should be brighter than your gti and my experience tells me the high beams are really bright.

The halogens are there for" flash to pass" when the bixenons are not on. During the day your HIDs are off but you want to flash the high beams to a truck to merge into your lane. In this case the halogens light up instead of starting the HIDs which need time to warm up.

It's a smart system that gives you bixenon and halogen high beams as well as high beam capabilities during daylight hours.

The replicas don't corner though. That requires lots of extras like motors and sensors.

To make a slight detour from your thread:

I wonder if anyone has plans to offer a projector HID conversion based on the OE halogen style (but using bi-xenon projectors) rather than based on the OE HID GTI or R style?

My reason is simply style: I'm sure the GTI/R styles are much more popular, but I much prefer the aesthetics of the OE halogens (but hate the light output).

Perhaps Ed's or Midwest Lighting Creations would consider doing it if and when aftermarket halogen assemblies become available?

deAutoKey has LEDs for the high beams in the halogen headlights. I'm hoping they come out with LEDs for the low beams. It's amazing how far LED lighting has come in recent years. I have LED lights for bicycle commuting and mountain biking at night and they have way more light output, longer run times, and are smaller and lighter than the old school halogen lamps I started out with 20 years ago...

I find LED light (notable on my bike) fantastic on clear, dry roads; but in the rain, the color temperature (close to 6000K, I'd guess) just doesn't light things up nearly as well as the ~4500K HID bulbs. I have high-output LEDs in my foglights and notice the same thing I do with my bike light - on wet roads, they're a long way from "good".

Maybe someone is making a LED H7 or whatever bulb in lower color temps, but I haven't seen them.

Nuje said:

I find LED light (notable on my bike) fantastic on clear, dry roads; but in the rain, the color temperature (close to 6000K, I'd guess) just doesn't light things up nearly as well as the ~4500K HID bulbs. I have high-output LEDs in my foglights and notice the same thing I do with my bike light - on wet roads, they're a long way from "good".

Maybe someone is making a LED H7 or whatever bulb in lower color temps, but I haven't seen them.

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Living where it rains all the time, I can agree with this.

Years ago I tried Sylvania SilverStar bulbs on a Mercedes. After the first time I drove in the rain at night, I went back to cheap bulbs with a more yellowish tint. The glare was just awful with the SilverStars. LED might be even worse.

Mike_04GolfTDI said:

Living where it rains all the time, I can agree with this.

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It rains all the time in Oregon too. I did notice the LED bike lights made the rain look "weird", but I got used to it on my night rides. I can still see better than my old halogens. That said, I guess there's a reason for more yellowish light for fog lights and why France required yellowish lights for so many years...

Just got my Ed's, not installed yet, along with hilux 5000k can error free hid kit. Anyone else use hilux? I'm having Ed's ceramic pro coated before installing them along with the fogs/driving lights I'm installing while I have the bumper off. So far the ceramic pro coating keeps my black golf quite clean and the present factory lights have stayed clean even if its only washed occasionally.

Darth_Furious said:

After adjusting it just right, the beam pattern is awesome! It is so much brighter than the stock halogen housing even with the H7RC HID. It spreads light across the floor everywhere.

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Hi. What tool did you use to reach and turn the bottom hex, the one for lateral adjustment of low beam? I have a bad lateral adjustment and I can't reach that hex with anything I have. Thanks!

aditud said:

Hi. What tool did you use to reach and turn the bottom hex, the one for lateral adjustment of low beam? I have a bad lateral adjustment and I can't reach that hex with anything I have. Thanks!

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The left/right adjustment on the bottom is round with zigzag teeth along the edge. For that one, I pinched it hard and turned it by hand. Give it a try, it's not so bad.

The small hex on top pulls a cable that lifts the unit up or down and has way more tension. That could not be turned by hand and I used pliers.

Note: As you go towards the center, it also goes up diagonally so you need to readjust the vertical as last step. This is because it pulls on the vertical cable as it moves sideways

Darth_Furious said:

The left/right adjustment on the bottom is round with zigzag teeth along the edge. For that one, I pinched it hard and turned it by hand. Give it a try, it's not so bad.

The small hex on top pulls a cable that lifts the unit up or down and has way more tension. That could not be turned by hand and I used pliers.

Note: As you go towards the center, it also goes up diagonally so you need to readjust the vertical as last step. This is because it pulls on the vertical cable as it moves sideways

Click to expand...

I just tried that in my garage. Could not reach well enough to pinch hard enough to turn by hand. However, used the tip of the blade of an old knife to turn it by pushing against those teeth. Problem is I don't see any movement in the beam pattern against my garage door. I should see this shape below of the beam cut off (ignore the dots, I put them in 'cause the line on top was moved all the way to the left when I saved the post) moving left or right, depending on which way I turn the screw, right?!
............... ___________
________/

I don't see that. This shape surely moves up or down when I use the small hex on top, but the bottom one seems to have no effect.

I do a little over 180* each turn (maybe 210*). I notice it move very slightly on each turn. I did at least 10-20 turns to get mine just right and I could see the cut off line move on the wall an inch every few seconds.

I used a plier on the vertical adjustment and did a 90* turn each time. I did about 5-10 of those to get it just right. Each 90 degrees makes it jump up visibly.

It seems like the left right adjustment takes 4 times as many turns to move as far as the vertical so just keep at it.

Also, I'm assuming you are doing the low beam and not accidentally adjusting the high beam. You may want to flash the high beams to confirm they are angled correctly and not adjusted

Darth_Furious said:

I do a little over 180* each turn (maybe 210*). I notice it move very slightly on each turn. I did at least 10-20 turns to get mine just right and I could see the cut off line move on the wall an inch every few seconds.

I used a plier on the vertical adjustment and did a 90* turn each time. I did about 5-10 of those to get it just right. Each 90 degrees makes it jump up visibly.

It seems like the left right adjustment takes 4 times as many turns to move as far as the vertical so just keep at it.

Also, I'm assuming you are doing the low beam and not accidentally adjusting the high beam. You may want to flash the high beams to confirm they are angled correctly and not adjusted

Click to expand...

I'm definitely doing the low beam. The driver's side is perfect, but I can't for the life of me adjust the passenger's side. All I get is vertical adjustment, even with the hex on the bottom. As I'm working it, all I see is the beam cut-off going up or down, not left or right. Very strange. This is what I have now:
...................._________________
___________/______/

so I need to make the / on the right align with the / on the left to end up with a unified cut-off like this:
..................._________________
__________/

Instead, if I try to adjust horizontally what I have now, all I'm getting is either this (vertical too high):
...............................__________
................._______/
_________/

or this (vertical too low):

................._______
_________/.............___________
________________/

It doesn't matter which hex I'm turning, am only getting vertical movement.

BTW, which direction (clockwise or anti clockwise) are you turning the passenger's side to adjust the beam towards center/left? I couldn't even figure that one out since I detected no horizontal movement.

Thanks for the honest review, we honestly never seen that green hue before, if you could email Support@deAutoLED.com we'd like more info on what you purchased - we want to make sure it was just not a one-off issue with the bulb.
-Also did both side have this hue?

For the no-tap adapters, they can be tricky but we have installed so many that they go in easily every time and we feel when you first try to install them it is very tricky.

Some tips:
-make sure you pull the bulb wires and hold it steady in the no-taps while you twist into the car's adapter, this will help the adapter/bulb sit and lock into place.
-the metal pins on the no-taps should be pushed out enough so it can lock securely and make a clean contact with the car's adapter.

We have a lot of great feedback on the ease of installing our kit - our no-taps are made of thick gauge wiring and we make sure the plastic we use is cut to fit in the OEM housing easier.

We appreciate you making mention of no glare, we have tested this in many MK7 models and never had any issues of glare when driving on the other side of the road.

While an honest opinion is always welcomed what you are comparing are H7rc in reflectors vs full size H7 in projectors and that is 2 very different things. This was a misleading thread if you want to compare them. If you were to install any morimoto HID in a reflector your review would be very different.

CrazyMonkey said:

deAutoKey has LEDs for the high beams in the halogen headlights. I'm hoping they come out with LEDs for the low beams. It's amazing how far LED lighting has come in recent years. I have LED lights for bicycle commuting and mountain biking at night and they have way more light output, longer run times, and are smaller and lighter than the old school halogen lamps I started out with 20 years ago...

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Yes we have the low beam LEDs here:
http://deautokey.com/product/new-le...olf-gof-sportwagen-alltrack-jsw-tiguan-passat

We have the thinner NO issue HID ballast for projectors also that don't have the same issues as morimoto:
http://deautokey.com/product/h7-hid...7-including-but-not-limited-helix-ed-s-spyder


Thank you

aditud said:

so I need to make the / on the right align with the / on the left to end up with a unified cut-off like this:
..................._________________
__________/

Instead, if I try to adjust horizontally what I have now, all I'm getting is either this (vertical too high):
...............................__________
................._______/
_________/

BTW, which direction (clockwise or anti clockwise) are you turning the passenger's side to adjust the beam towards center/left? I couldn't even figure that one out since I detected no horizontal movement.

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Sorry, I forgot which way I turned it. I adjusted over a month ago and I just can't remember.

My cut off looks like the one you say is vertical too high. That is how I ended up. The cutoff jump happens in front of the light. If you want to unify and over lap it, you need to aim it at the same spot. No point in having 2 headlights aimed at the same spot. You probably maxed out the adjustment and it will not go further.

The idea behind the 3 level cut off is having the side spill out to on coming traffic be very low to not blind other drivers. The mid level is for what's in front of you, and the right side is higher so you can see things on the curb better. That's what I read a long time ago. The way I aimed mine is to go to an empty dark road and raise the lights until the mid tier it is just below the horizon by a couple degrees. The left side will be below and the right side will be a little higher and just at the horizon. It may seem weird but try driving around like it and get used to it for a few days.

Finally, if you aren't happy with it, try emailing ed directly and get his input. Maybe you have a faulty unit that needs to be replaced.

deAutoLED.com said:

Thanks for the honest review, we honestly never seen that green hue before, ....Also did both side have this hue?

For the no-tap adapters, they can be tricky but we have installed so many that they go in easily every time and we feel when you first try to install them it is very tricky.

Some tips:
-make sure you pull the bulb wires and hold it steady in the no-taps while you twist into the car's adapter, this will help the adapter/bulb sit and lock into place.
We have a lot of great feedback on the ease of installing our kit - our no-taps are made of thick gauge wiring and we make sure the plastic we use is cut to fit in the OEM housing easier.

We appreciate you making mention of no glare, we have tested this in many MK7 models and never had any issues of glare when driving on the other side of the road.

Finally, we also have new H7 bulbs for projectors that many have liked, we'd like to know if you would be interested in testing them vs morimoto, and hopefully you can give a new H7RC bulb a try as we again feel it was an isolated incident.

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1. I've seen other cars on the road with a slight greenish HID light. Maybe 3 times this past year, not often but I know it when I see it. I am particular about headlight colors and shades of blue.

2. Yes both lights had it. I noticed it the first time I fired them up and hoped they would go away after a month of burn in but it is still there.

3. Your no tap adapters are well made for the most part. No complaints about build quality. When I put the bulb in the adapter, it slides a little as I put it in slightly and is enough to prevent it from going in all the way. I thought I got it right and there is no power connection. An improvement would be a clip, holder, or something to hold the bulb down firmly to the adapter. I used bonding tape and it worked right away without a problem. If you improve the design of the adapter a little, I think it would help greatly. It just seemed like an obvious design fix that I wondered why it was not there.

4. There is no glare and I wanted to make sure when I got it. If people want to retain the oem reflector housing, this is the best option.

5. I'm pretty happy with my morimotos and this is the 3rd install i done. I have good results on all 3 cars. If it's not broke, don't fix it. That's my attitude. I already spent enough on eds replicas, your h7rc kit, and my current morimotos. I don't want to spend any more money when I am happy and I don't want to have to wait in line at the post office to ship back your h7rc. I saw your website and you now offer h7 in 5500k and 6500k. I'm happy with my 4500k morimotos and don't see a reason to pull the lights and install new bulbs. Also I think I am done with the h7rc because I don't have reflectors anymore and can use the normal h7 bulb.

Thanks for the response and I can see from your posts throughout various forums that you really try to provide good customer service and make people satisfied. To be honest, if your products won me over, I would try to convince others to buy them on forums. It's not that you have bad products. I think they are good, I just think what I am using instead is better.

Darth_Furious said:

1. I've seen other cars on the road with a slight greenish HID light. Maybe 3 times this past year, not often but I know it when I see it. I am particular about headlight colors and shades of blue.
2. Yes both lights had it. I noticed it the first time I fired them up and hoped they would go away after a month of burn in but it is still there.
3. Your no tap adapters are well made for the most part. No complaints about build quality. When I put the bulb in the adapter, it slides a little as I put it in slightly and is enough to prevent it from going in all the way. I thought I got it right and there is no power connection. An improvement would be a clip, holder, or something to hold the bulb down firmly to the adapter. I used bonding tape and it worked right away without a problem. If you improve the design of the adapter a little, I think it would help greatly. It just seemed like an obvious design fix that I wondered why it was not there.
4. There is no glare and I wanted to make sure when I got it. If people want to retain the oem reflector housing, this is the best option.
5. I'm pretty happy with my morimotos and this is the 3rd install i done. I have good results on all 3 cars. If it's not broke, don't fix it. That's my attitude. I already spent enough on eds replicas, your h7rc kit, and my current morimotos. I don't want to spend any more money when I am happy and I don't want to have to wait in line at the post office to ship back your h7rc. I saw your website and you now offer h7 in 5500k and 6500k. I'm happy with my 4500k morimotos and don't see a reason to pull the lights and install new bulbs. Also I think I am done with the h7rc because I don't have reflectors anymore and can use the normal h7 bulb.
Thanks for the response and I can see from your posts throughout various forums that you really try to provide good customer service and make people satisfied. To be honest, if your products won me over, I would try to convince others to buy them on forums. It's not that you have bad products. I think they are good, I just think what I am using instead is better.

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We understand and you are entitled to the review/opinion but we didn't want to mislead anyone.
You are comparing our H7RC kit reflectors vs morimoto full size HID kit in a projector, that is 2 very different setups.
We do not feel our HID will produce that tint in all reflectors, we have not seen it, you can see the endless feedback where there is no green tint so that is why we want to get more information on the kit you have and if you can try another set:




Here is our H7 in a projector no green - we feel we have a product that have been used by many people with great feedback so seeing this review with "green" tint makes us really want to learn more about the setup/when purchased so we can trace back this HID kit and try a new setup, even if you don't want to try it please email with more info so we can look into it: Support@deAutoLED.com

Our ballast that are a lot thinner than the majority on the market, they have no errors or extra wiring with a quick start-up with no misfires in cold/hot weather. We have seen a lot of youtube videos where morimoto fails in cold weather but of course as always just like this review that doesn't mean all kits would have this issue.

Again, the review is fine but if we feel it is isolated and not something we seen we really want to try to include all information and feedback as this does matter when people read that our HID are causing a green glare we need more information on the product we sent and see if we can send another to see if you can see the difference and what we are use to seeing.
HID full size kit in projectors - NO green at all:

jaypoto said:

Full disclosure: I have always been a fan of DeAutoLED's products, ongoing customer support, and warranty. I have fitted my 2017 Golf Alltrack with nearly every possible bulb from DeAutoLED that could be upgraded and replaced. DeAuto recently reached out to me about reviewing their latest HID kit and I was happy to show my support. Here is my review of their latest 5500k HID kit installed in Helix headlights on the 2017 Golf Alltrack.
Installation and shots of the kit will be added later as I update this post. For now enjoy some shots and video of the finished product as well as my impressions.
When I made the decision to go with aftermarket headlights for my Golf Alltrack I knew I had to look to at the top HID lighting companies out there for the right support, product, and warranty. Several companies came to mind but having previous experience with DeautoLED with their led rear brake lights, turn signals, fog kit, trunk light, glove box I knew they were the right option to go with. After discussing with their support team I chose their 5500k HID kit for my Helix projector headlights. My decision was validated when I received the kit packaged neatly via priority usps delivery. Everything looked well built and was a breeze to install into the Helix headlights. Immediately I was able to notice the difference from the base halogen headlights to the new 5500k HID kit. The cutoff is clear and sharp especially after dialing in the Helix lights. The light output is far enough to see in the distance on back roads but not too high to blind other drivers. The de360 kit just adds to the visibility and lights up the bottom and sides of the road nicely. Overall I am very happy that I decided to use DeautoLED for my HID kit and look forward to the support and warranty.
DeautoLED 5500k HID kit and de360 fog kit w/ yellow Lamin-x covers

DeautoLED rear led brake kit w/ rear fog

DeautoLED 5500k HID kit

DeautoLED 5500k HID kit cutoff

Videos:
Backroad driving with DeautoLED 5500 HID kit
ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xSk0xhJMPY
Backroad driving with DeautoLED 5500 and de360 fog kit w/ yellow Lamin-x covers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvdGPSdsc0I

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I'm another Ed's fan. Installed them today with hylux 6k bulbs and night breaker laser h7 highs. Drove it in light snowstorm. Lows need to be dropped a bit but they were both factory adjusted exactly the same out of the box. Very glad you here recommended them and find they are all they are cracked up to be. Had them coated with ceramic-pro 9h to repel dirt and give some gravel and stone protection as the rest of the care is coated as well.Hope Ed gets the glitches out of the Passat lights so he can sell them.

Update on my R style replicas. Right side doesn't respond at all to vertical adjustment 5mm white plastic hex. Anyone else have this problem, and can it be fixed or is it just replace whole headlight?

Take it apart. Turn the black knob assembly a quarter turn (forgot which way) and it removes. The hex turns a slot that moves back and forth to push/pull a ball joint. If the ball joint separates from the moving slit, it will not respond to adjustment. That's what happened to mine

Thanks Darth, at least the passenger side isn't as congested space wise as the drivers side so you can get a 5mm socket on the hex. No luck finding a 5mm open end or box 5mm wrench so I'll make one this morning so I can adjust the drivers side one. Ill look at the mechanism as I thought at first look that it was driving a bevel gear. Is it possible the H7 plug has drifted to a position inside the housing to jam movement? The wires to it are pretty short making it impossible to locate it out of the way behind the access cap.

for your problem, you may want to reach ed directly

edward@becautoparts.com

Yeah - when headlights are bounced around in shipping, it's not uncommon for the "cage" that holds the bulb assemblies to detach from the adjusting screws.

If you have an old, crappy, headlight, toss it in the oven (200F for ~8minutes), and then pull off the lens. Once you take a headlight apart, you get a pretty good understanding of how everything works (instead of trying to put mental pictures to words), and how you can fix things up if something comes loose.

(You could do this with a new light, too - nothing gets damaged heating up the headlight assembly in the oven...but you probably want to keep the cost of "oops!" down on your first go-around.)

I wrote Ed last week and have not heard back yet. I sort of guessed that something came loose inside. The oven trick may work with plastic lensed newer lights but not with older glass lenses, they were silicon glued and had to cut the glue, Valeo, Hella, etc.

I just did my glass-lens Mk4 Golf Hella projector lights a couple weeks ago - no problems in the oven.