JSW Rear hatch latch Problem

another rear hatch problem

I had previously replaced a nonworking rear door latch on my 2009 JSW and it worked fine with the replacement.

Several years later, the rear hatch failed to open again. So for the second time, I replaced the latch (PN 5M0827505E9B9 ) put it still won't open when I pull on the handle or hit the trunk open button on my key.

I am wondering now if this is an electronic and not mechanical problem. Trouble shooting thoughts? Is there a fuse for the rear hatch lock?

Please advise.

Thanks

jr

Wow! I heavily use my hatch door, still on the original latch, now with 231k miles. I am rather surprised. guess it's a hit and miss issue. I am a videophone technician hence high mileage and paid off my car several months ago.

Rear hatch won't open

Shortbeach,
Did you ever resolve your issue? Were you able to open the hatch from the manual release on the inside?
I ask these questions because my hatch stopped opening the other day. I have a 2013 JSW and the normal procedure to open the hatch is either unlock the doors, unlock the hatch with the button on the drivers door or push the hatch unlock button on the key fob, then push the unlatch switch on the hatch while opening the hatch. None of these options seem to work now and I can't even open from the manual release on the inside. I'm more than happy to change out the latch but can't see how I can remove the inside panel or the latch until I can get the hatch open. I tried the two second tip mentioned earlier and it doesn't seem to work even when used in combination with the manual release on the inside. Does anyone have ideas on how I could get the hatch open?
Thanks,

Broken Latch: Thread back from the dead

My latch failed today, and wouldn't shut. What sucks is that there is no manual way to actuate the latch. My MFD would do nothing but tell me my hatch was open, which is a pain to deal with while driving, and it would definitely suck to have the hatch pop open while heading down the road.

Tying the hatch shut from the inside fixes the hatch pop problem, but not the MFD. What I did discover, however, is that if you unplug the latch mechanism, the car will no longer say the hatch is open. You still have to tie it shut, but at least the MFD works like it should.

I removed the rear door trim and ran a strap from the steel around the latch to the center child seat anchor point in the trunk. It isn't pretty, and I can't use my trunk, but I can drive until I get a replacement part.

if you press OK, the message center (multifunction display MFD) should go back to normal.

I guess I should have tried that. I learn something new everyday

At any rate, I did learn that the car doesn't freak out if you unplug the latch!

Mine broke the other day under warranty. I just bought the part and took me 15 minutes to replace. I wasn't going to leave the car and drive 60 miles back again with another car to save 100 bucks. I think I saw someone here payed 280 dollars for the repair? Butt hurt?

does someone want a latch? I bought one, and fixed the old one, you pay for shipping.

Mine will be here tomorrow. I'm sure the next person who has this issue and reads this thread will take up your offer.

Hey TDIFred, you still have an extra latch to sell? The worm gear in mine sheared in half on Friday. How much to ship to Colorado?

Replaced my rear hatch locking latch (part# 5K0827505A) that failed. It starting making a buzzing sound and would no longer latch closed, or lock. Also read that it's a common problem due to the plastic worm screw that fails within it. Replacing it was easy enough 5 min. (YouTube2, YouTube2). The replacement part was only $21. on Amazon