Multiple issues after BS Delete, New Cam and Timing Belt

So just finished completing a balance shaft delete, new camshaft and timing belt. Prior to doing this work the car pretty much since last October. I'm having several issues now

1) The tensioner... the pointer was in the between the slot when tightened. Correct tools were used, everything lined up after rotating the crank gear twice. After the vehicle was started the pointer is now way past the slot. Is that normal or is the pointer supposed to stay within the slot?

2) There is oil dripping from the back of the engine onto the ground... new valve cover gasket was used. Valve cover bolts were tightened to 7ft-lbs. Sealant was used in the corners of the 1&5 cam caps. Sealant was applied the the firewall side of cam cap #5 and the tandem pump gasket and I had pushed the #5 cam cap towards the firewall when torqueing the bolts down.

3) When performing the break-in prodedure on the cam, I was experiencing what I would call quite a bit of smoke, at times it seemed to be blackish smoke and at other times blueish.

4) When first started I got an "Emissions workshop" message, but that did go away.

well, more details are needed. What code did it set? You did not have an oil leak before the delete? Did you set and check your torsional values, for the smoke that is? The tensioner if it's just a bit past is a little on the tight side, it depends on how far. Did you say the car sat since last October? If so you might have a mouse nest or similar in your intercooler piping.

For the tensioner - the pointer should line up in the slot with everything installed - with the vehicle cold.

Once the engine is started, expansion of the various parts will make the tension go tighter. If you want to check again, let the engine cool down and observe the tensioner pointer again - if it is still tight when cold, then readjust the tension.

For the leak, clean everything off and run the engine. get a bright light and a good dentist mirror and figure out where the leak is coming from. If it was not leaking that bad before the cam and bsm, then it's likely something you worked on - cam cover, pan, or possibly the tandem pump if it was disturbed or removed at the cam install.

Regarding the leak... I definitely had a valve cover leak prior to starting any of the work... the entire intake side of the engine was a oily/sandy mess. Could I have had a tandem pump leak prior to the work as well? It's possible. The car was literally driven 500kms from where I bought it to back home and then sat till now.

Is there a "How-to" for adjusting the torsion?

I'll check the tensioner again tonight when I get home from work. If I rotate the engine by hand when cold, should the needle remain in the slot for the entire revolution or does it change as well?

Should the bolts on the valve cover be retorqued with the vehicle hot.

I did not remove the tandem pump when I did the cam.

Leak - same as above: clean it all off, run it, inspect with a good light and a mirror.

Torsion - what is your value now, and what are you looking to achieve by adjusting it?

The torque spec on the valve cover bolts does not specify hot or cold, though I would prefer cold myself.

Note how I also said "disturb". At higher mileages, the tandem pump gaskets leak if you look at them funny...

If the tandem pump gasket is the culprit, do you recommend putting sealant on it or no?

No sealent necessary on new TP gasket

Haven't ruled out tandem pump yet, but valve cover definitely leaking. Have pulled valve cover cleaned all parts free of oil. Myturbodiesel puts sealant over the entire intake side and not only in the corners of the end caps but where the end cap to tandem pump mating surface.. like a half moon shape if you will.

Your thoughts? Please help... want to get this right once and for all.

Other questions....

Should you be letting the valve cover gasket rest for a period of time, before starting the engine?

Also, as I mentioned in my previous post, for those who have successfully removed and replaced the valve cover, did you only put sealant in the corners of the 1 & 5 bearing caps or did you sealant over the half moon part too.

It really seems like a weak design in that the intake side rear corner doesn't have a bolt there and considering the engine being tilted towards that corner, one would think there more fasteners would be positioned in that area? Then again I'm not an engineer so what the hell do I know???

db123 said:

Other questions....
Should you be letting the valve cover gasket rest for a period of time, before starting the engine?
Also, as I mentioned in my previous post, for those who have successfully removed and replaced the valve cover, did you only put sealant in the corners of the 1 & 5 bearing caps or did you sealant over the half moon part too.
It really seems like a weak design in that the intake side rear corner doesn't have a bolt there and considering the engine being tilted towards that corner, one would think there more fasteners would be positioned in that area? Then again I'm not an engineer so what the hell do I know???

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Jnitrofish solved what seems to be the same problem you are having by putting the half moon sealant on #5 cap.

Another thing, if you take #5 bearing cap off again you will notice a groove cut in the cap matting surface to the head, this is an oil relief so make sure sealant is not blocking this.

Well... hadn't got any responses and had to get this back together. I took the valve cover off, cleaned the valve cover mating surface extremely well, (like medically clean well), the gasket and the groove in the valve cover for the gasket. I only put sealant in the corners and not the half moon. I followed the steps outlined in this thread:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=259488&highlight=valve+cover

The first time I installed the valve cover, I didn't torque the bolts down in the pattern mentioned in the above link. This time I did. The only thing I did differently was I torqued the bolts in 2 stages, 5-NM and then 10-NM. I installed the valve cover late this afternoon and am going to wait overnight before starting the car. Doing this just to let it rest and for the sealant to cure and I'll hope for the best.

I hope this works and boy do I hope it's not the tandem pump.

I'm really losing patience with this car... I also suspect the rear main seal may be leaking now too, but this is not the source of my initially reported leak.

Fingers crossed!

James & Son said:

Jnitrofish solved what seems to be the same problem you are having by putting the half moon sealant on #5 cap.
Another thing, if you take #5 bearing cap off again you will notice a groove cut in the cap matting surface to the head, this is an oil relief so make sure sealant is not blocking this.

Click to expand...

Any update? I have done the same items with a TB change and a head/valve job. I can't get mine to start. Just turns over like not getting fuel??

ShaneShelley234 said:

Any update? I have done the same items with a TB change and a head/valve job. I can't get mine to start. Just turns over like not getting fuel??

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Make sure you run the in-tank lift pump over and over again (by cycling the ignition on and off) and that the fuel filter is full of fuel. It can take a long time to re-prime the TP/injectors before starting.