2012 Passat Turbo Help!!!

Thanks for reading.
So, last week, my wife finally decided to go ahead and start the process to sell "buyback" the 2012 Passat w/ 144,000 miles. Two days later my son is driving it and as he is accelerating up grade the car loses power, down shift and dies. Car will restart but only for a couple of seconds. I pull the codes and it list several related to the turbo, low voltage (which I relate to him draining the battery in an attempt to start it). Last codes relate to the ad blue tank heater and sensor. I'm not worried about them at the moment.

Trailer it to the dealer. Dealer says its needs a new turbo and particulate filter, misc piping and a few other things that after we discussed it I could do with out. All to the tune of roughly $6K.

I don't want to spend 6k especially since I'm selling it back. I'm trying to get an idea of what is evolved in swapping out the turbo myself. I'm sure I can do it, but like to know what I'm facing so can try to have everything lined up. Parts ,Tools, etc.


Has anyone done this and would be willing to share their procedure? or could someone point me to a link.
I have searched and searched but most relate to the work being covered under warranty.
There are two technical bulletins there were referenced to me. Anyone know where I can read these?

#21-16-01

2036110/9

Thanks again for reading and any advice.

ST Briggs

wow, so the dealer and VWOA wont help at all since your past the 120K extended turbo warranty?

The dealer didn't mention any kind of help and I haven't reached out to VWOA. I will now though. I didn't realize that this was a known issue until I started researching sites.

Thanks for the reply.

The CKRA turbo is actually I think a little easier than the CBEA/CJAA engine turbo that the Golf/Jetta/Beetle/A3 use. Still a big job. I drop the subframe assembly (steering gear, control arms, sway bar, and all) out the bottom of the car to make room. Then take the right axle loose from the transmission and swing it out of the way. Then you have all the space you need to take the DPF/downpipe assembly down and get at the turbocharger mostly from below.

For the buyback I think all it has to do is roll onto the dealers lot under its own power.

oilhammer said:

The CKRA turbo is actually I think a little easier than the CBEA/CJAA engine turbo that the Golf/Jetta/Beetle/A3 use. Still a big job. I drop the subframe assembly (steering gear, control arms, sway bar, and all) out the bottom of the car to make room. Then take the right axle loose from the transmission and swing it out of the way. Then you have all the space you need to take the DPF/downpipe assembly down and get at the turbocharger mostly from below.

Click to expand...

I hope I don't have to do all that when I replace my downpipe with one built by rawtek

You can weasel the DPF down and out, yes. Just have to twist, turn, stand on one leg, spin around, close one eye, stop for a break, etc. I normally find it less stressful to spend the 20 minutes to take the subframe assembly out, but in your case if all you are doing is DPF removal you won't need or want to. The Rawtek pipe will slide right up in there.

Thanks, for the feedback. Waiting now to hear from VWOA dealer group. They are checking into. I'm supposed to hear something in the next few days.


Thanks again,

Tell them that since they'll just be crushing your car anyway then just take it back :-/
Good luck!

even at worse you should be able to change used parts enough to prevent and MIL be displayed for buy back, yeah either lot of money for labor or decent money for just parts off the forum.

I would think it would still run with a bad turbo- just with no power. I'd try charging up the battery and see what happens.

There is the chance that it will pump all the oil out of the engine into the intake and/or exhaust.

^^^in a hundreds yards of driving? I know it sounds absurd, but the whole "driven under it's own power" is absurd, since VWoA most likely won't rebuild a 144k mile car to be re-sold.

Seriously: IF he can start it, how long to total catastrophic failure? (I know..."how high is UP?")

Hehe... You want to see a video of what a bad turbo is like?

Yes, but there have been a few clowns here that have driven their cars several miles, with smoke billowing out the back, spitting oil out the tailpipe.
So, no chance he can flatbed it to the dealer, start it, get it rolling shut it off, and coast in? I'm actually serious, given the situation.

Maybe the dpf clogged when the turbo went out. In that case, removing a sensor from the downpipe might free up up enough flow to limp it into the dealer.

should be able to unload it, fire it up and limp it into the buyback bay- even if the turbo pumps the entire engine dry of oil one can drive a ways at 0psi (proven by cash for clunker videos)

Trailer it to the nearest Walmart. Start that puppy with a small shot of ether and get it warmed up so it will idle. Go to the dealer and leave it running lol

VWOA is not willing to help with this so it looks like I'll be picking the car back up and digging into it this weekend.

Still looking for bulletin #21-16-01 and 2036110/9. If anyone has either of those and could shoot me a copy I would really appreciate it.
I'm sure I'll figure things out and get through it but it's nice to have a guide.

First step is to check out the turbo to see what is exactly wrong with it.


I'll keep you posted.

In some cases, the turbo shaft just snaps and the compressor wheel is neatly wedged in the housing. and they will start and idle just fine. Because the shaft is still in place and blocking the oil passage from allowing the oil to just pump out.

Since I do not know the nature and condition of YOUR car, I cannot say if it is "safe" to even start the engine at all let alone drive it anywhere.

If the crankcase is still full of oil, that is a good sign, and also a sign that chances are your DPF/catalyst/etc. is perfectly fine and you needn't be concerned with that at all. You can just swap the turbo, drop the charge air tube on the intercooler inlet side and check for any debris, and thoroughly clean it out and let it drain.

I have only done a few CKRA turbos, as not long into their run the warranty was extended. The last one I did was on a 180k mile car that had gone past the extension anyway.

If you remove the inlet tract (the part from the air cleaner into the turbo) you can look/feel inside and see what the condition of the compressor wheel is. I suspect you'll find it mangled.

oilhammer

Thanks for the info.

I don't think I'll be as lucky as you stated. I did check the oil level and it didn't register on the stick. So I'm expecting that I'll be swapping the DPF, along with the turbo, at a minimum.

I have successfully cleaned the oil from a DPF with lots of soap and hot water. That same car is still on the road today, 50k+ miles later, with the same DPF. It may be worth a try.

i have lots of soap and hot water. I'll certainly give it a try.

again thanks,

Where are you folks buying your VW parts?

I wouldn't bother replacing the turbo. It should run without boost- at least well enough for the buyback. Just pinch the turbo oil feed closed or remove the line and plug it off. I think it would also be much easier to remove a sensor than remove, clean, and reinstall the dpf.

If that dealership is trying to tell you that a check engine light or fault codes are a disqualifier for the buyback, they are full of cr*p, and you should probably return it elsewhere.

Thanks turbobrick240.

I see your point.

The dealer isn't saying that any fault codes will cancel the buyback.
They, imho, are just going overboard in their repair and price to me, for a car i'm selling back to VW.

They, the dealer, apparently have to follow the TSB. I did find one TSB 21-14-06. It describes the procedure for repair of a blown turbo with a contaminated oil system. Flushing, Replacing the oil pump, turbo. etc. I understand doing all of this as a warranty repair.

Thanks again,

I'm surprised they won't work with you, although getting you to buy repairs helps their bottom-line. Getting paid for useless repairs still puts money in their till.
Have you tried to convince them the car will NOT be re-sold by VWoA, after they buy it back? A reasonable dealership (owner???) might see it that way, but I know the "reasonable dealership is too often an oxymoron. (oooooo...can't resist...with the emphasis on "MORON!" HAHA!)

tubrobrick240 is spot on, pinch that oil feed line shut somehow, fill it up and trailer it to a lot close to the dealer- it will work, don't spend a penny

Yeah but if the dealer knows of the history of the car, they may flag you when you roll into the lot, yeah its not right but who knows.

Not sure if you have other dealers in the area, but it couldn't hurt to do the buyback at another dealer that doesn't have a recent history of the car. Kind of a cover you bases.

... Then take it to a different dealer for the turn-in.