ALH Golf died

I am writing to make sure I have exhausted my diagnostics before pulling out my IP.

I was driving my 2003 ALH Golf (5 speed, 293K miles) to work and she just lost all power and died. Slight puff of blue smoke, but not noises or excessive smoke and no weird noises. Towed home and put on VAG COM.... no DTCs to report. Pulled fuel filter and attempted to run some diesel purge through the pump and car will not turn over. I can see the pump pulling the Diesel Purge close to pump inlet, but never turns over. The car has not burned oil and there is still same amount in sump since last change.

I assumed car lost fueling when it happened given symptoms. perhaps due to gummed up filter. Now that it won't pull Diesel Purge from 18", I am thinking my pump is shot.

Any other diagnostics that I should perform before removing the IP and sending to Portland for rebuild?

Thanks.

car will not turn over

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Sounds like you need to fix your starter first.

Is your timing belt still turning the pump?

Timing belt is intact and turning.

"turn over" -- wrong wording. It will turn over to attempt to crank and draw fuel through the IP inlet hose, but doesn't start.

Just to clarify- the starter cranks the engine over but there is no fuel combusting?

What do you get when you crack the injector lines at the injectors?

Turn over and crank are the same thing.
Firing/starting/run. That's different.

Whoa whoa whoa hold on... Before dropping big money on a pump rebuild Have you made sure it isn't a failed crankshaft position sensor?! No registered Rpms will mean the Ecu will give no fuel to combust.

I'd still check the timing to make sure the belt didnt jump/fail

There is still much troubleshooting to do here. Things to do:

-Check 109 relay; does glow plug light come on when you cycle key? If yes, 109 relay ok
-Re prime the IP; it may be that your fuel supply pump(first stage of IP) is full of air and cannot suck.
-Check timing belt and timing; provided the belt is intact and tensioned preoperly, check to make sure engine is in time
-Pressure of fuel at injectors; only after priming IP and checking TB should you crank engine and check for fuel squirting out of each injector nut. not dribbling but full on squirting
-Fuel shut off valve; if no fuel at injectors, check shutoff valve. Can be done with a piece of wire from batt (+) to valve terminal. An audible click should be heard.
-Case Pressure relief valve; if there is little to no fuel at injectors and fuel shutoff is working, remove case pressure relief valve and check to make sure it did not puke its guts out
-crank position sensor; does your tachometer work while cranking? can check with vcds and vagscope

If it were me, I would check in given order and if you're still coming up with nothing, then go after the IP. Good luck and this should probably be moved to mk4 section

85% of car problems are electrical.

Gothmolly said:

85% of car problems are electrical.

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93% of statistics are made up

steve6 said:

93% of statistics are made up

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I am right 96 percent of the time, I don't care about the other 8%

\/\/0J0 said:

-Re prime the IP; it may be that your fuel supply pump(first stage of IP) is full of air and cannot suck.
-Pressure of fuel at injectors; only after priming IP and checking TB should you crank engine and check for fuel squirting out of each injector nut. not dribbling but full on squirting

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Ahem......
That's what she said?

Blackjedi said:

I am right 96 percent of the time, I don't care about the other 8%

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There are three kinds of people in this world: those who understand math and those who don't.