Vent Boost Gauge Installation including Boost Tap

Hi everyone! I wanted to create a DIY that covers a boost gauge installation on the 2.0 CR TDI engine. There are many threads asking about this topic but not much pictures to guide people through the process. I decided to install a boost gauge after having issues with a frozen intercooler. I know it wasn’t necessary but I figured it would be cool to have some type of indication of boost behavior during the cold weather.

I decided to go with the NewSouth Performance Boost Gauge since it has no vacuum range and provides more needle deflection on the stock boost range of 0-23psi. It also has a perfect match to the needles on the MK6 instrument cluster. I looked into other gauges such as Podi but did not like the asymmetric steering column gauge pod. AWE Tuning had the best mounting solution in my opinion, the vent gauge. This left me with a dilemia since NewSouth does not make a MK6 Jetta specific vent pod and AWE was not willing to sell the pod alone. I ended up purchasing the NewSouth Gauge AND an AWE GLI Boost/Vacuum Vent Gauge just for the pod. I still have the gauge for sale here:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ost-Vacuum-Gauge-52mm&p=86629081#post86629081)

To use AWE’s pod, you need to remove the electronic gauge and cut the flat plastic bar off.


The NewSouth gauge fits into the standard opening but is very loose. I experimented with wrapping electrical tape around the gauge to build up the gap and make it fit tightly. I didn’t like how the result felt and the smell of heated paste from the electrical tape coming out of the vent wouldn’t be too pleasant. I decided to use pieces of the soft side of industrial strength Velcro to make a balanced cushion layer between the gauge and pod. This method works well and allows you to easily install and remove the gauge and rotate it in any position you prefer.



I used a combination of the instructions provided from NewSouth Performance and AWE Tuning to install the pod and run the boost line through the firewall. I will skip over those parts and the wiring of the NewSouth Performance gauge lighting.




I did everything above within weeks of buying the gauges then I found out how much of a pain it is to install a boost gauge on this engine. I was used to tapping into any vacuum line off the intake manifold from a gasoline engine. Several months went by of me starting at a boost gauge that only lit up and served no purpose before I decided to actually attempt to install the boost tap. I chose the plastic intercooler pipe as the easiest place to install the boost fitting. The process I used did not require taking the pipe off the car!

I did not have all the necessary Torx socket wrenches to completely remove the belly pan. As long as the car is up in the air a few inches, you can loosen the front and side screws and let it hang down. There are 4 screws on each side and 1 screw in front with 2 interlocking tabs.


The next thing I did was remove the rubber intercooler hose from the plastic pipe. My car had the updated intercooler installed in February 2014 so your hoses and clamps may look different. I only had about an ounce of clear water in the hose and barely any of that brown milky residue on the inner walls.

After looking around and contemplating if I should remove the plastic pipe or not … I found a nice spot on the side that I decided to drill into without having to remove the pipe. The nice thing about this area is that all shavings would fall down and can be pulled out or vacuumed out. I actually put a piece of cardboard with tape to try and catch some of the shavings. I used a 3/8” drill bit and slowly drilled through the plastic to avoid piercing through and dropping shavings. If you use a slow and controlled speed, the shavings will be solid and easy to pull off. There was no dust created and only solid strands of plastic came off with the drill bit.



I installed the NoBuzz fitting supplied by NewSouth Performance and did not tap thread into the pipe. The 3/8” drill was the perfect size to thread by hand and create your own threads as you install the fitting. For a sealant I decided to use a product called Leak Lock (blue version). http://www.highsidechem.com/leaklock.html
It can be found at HVAC supply stores. I actually used this product on an oil pressure sender on the engine block of my other car. The threads were previously damaged and caused oil to squirt out while driving. I cleaned the threads and used some leak lock and haven’t had an issue for over a year (1,000 miles of use, >50psi).

I decided to install the rubber hose onto the NoBuzz fitting before threading it in to avoid shaking the fitting as the sealant dries. I put a small amount around the threads only and started to thread it onto the pipe. Make sure that you are pushing while turning because you will have to cut into the plastic to make your own threads. I added some more sealant to the threads and it became very messy with my hands rubbing all over the place. Towards the end, I used a wrench on the fitting and gave it another two full turns into the pipe. Make sure that you position the nipple and hose in the direction of the boost line to minimize bending and unnecessary contact. When I was done, the sealant had started to dry and become very tacky making it impossible to clean, so please excuse the sloppiness.



Next step was to reinstall the intercooler hose and run the nylon boost line from the fitting to the back of the gauge. Here is a picture of the route I used. Follow the nylon line from the bottom center of the picture. Most of the line gets covered up when you reinstall the engine cover.


You can see where the line follows the firewall and goes behind the insulation into the small hole.


According to Leak Lock, this size fitting should be ready for use in about 20 minutes. I ended up washing the cars and did not start the engine until 6 hours later just to move it in the yard. The next morning I drove the car to work and hit 23psi a few times with no issue. If I knew how simple this installation was, I would have had a working boost gauge months ago.

Here is a video of the gauge in action: http://youtu.be/OflshPd0xis

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/OflshPd0xis" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

helped a lot, thank you

All that time and fussing around when you could have installed P3 Cars vent gauge in about 10 minutes no muss no fuss and you would also have more than just a boost gauge

And less money in the wallet

Thanks for the write up. Looks great!

No problem, glad I could help.

Thanks for the write up! Not many out there for mk6 tdi boost gauge installation . I was going to put in a p3 but it’s just not as accurate as the real thing and I have a Ross tech vag com that can do and tell me a lot more than the p3 . APPRECIATE THE WRITE UP !!! I didn’t know what route I was going to take and you helped me make up my mind. THANKS

MichaelB said:

All that time and fussing around when you could have installed P3 Cars vent gauge in about 10 minutes no muss no fuss and you would also have more than just a boost gauge

Click to expand...

The problem is at least in my case. I have a Jetta MK5 CJAA 2010. My car dosen´t read more than 23psi with the Polar FIS or with a P3. There is a limit with PSI in the OBD2/Canbus. Don´t know if that is a tune issue or what. I searched and read that it happens. So with a P3 in my case i would have need to install the analog sensor and would be the same thing as he did. My car have a Polar FIS and a the same boost gauge the OP installed but the steering wheel pod. The P3 is nice sure... i love it. Is the only gauge i would put in the vent but it´s expensive.

OP a friend with a 2.0tfsi did that on his throttle pipe but he installed a meth injector there. He had to change the throttle pipe because the whole kept getting bigger. So just in case from time to time look at that. Maybe he did something wrong but IDK.