Suzuki Samurai ALH swap

Good, I've seen intercoolers craking because of all that metal on the pipping, which gives no absorption of the engine at all. Some rubber hoses help a lot.

Anyone besides me ever used the sewer connectors from lowes/home depot as connectors for intercooler piping?

Nothing says southern built like 200 bucks worth of stainless mandrel bends and sewer pipe connectors.

PickleRick said:

Anyone besides me ever used the sewer connectors from lowes/home depot as connectors for intercooler piping?
Nothing says southern built like 200 bucks worth of stainless mandrel bends and sewer pipe connectors.

Click to expand...

I have, it sort of works. The issue is that it can't take the sustained heat. So the cold side of the intercooler it's never been an issue, the hot side, close to the turbo, it will distort and eventually fail.

It's great to use for a mock-up and run with it for a bit, but expect to remove it and replace with metal pipe after you are happy with the routing.

Good news bad news. The good news is I started it up today and it starts up great and had good oil pressure. I let it run to get up to full operating temp and had no problems. The bad news is it has no throttle response. I have a fault for throttle pedal range performance but I don't remember the fault number. I pulled my ecm/fuse/relay panel out and checked all the wiring from the pedal to the ecm and every thing checks out. Pins are in the correct locations and don't have high resistance. The pedal it self is brand new so I can't see it being a problem. I'm going to take the ecm to work tomorrow and hook it up to an odis scan tool to see if I can get any more info out of it. I did remove a bunch of wires from the big connector because they where unused. I don't think any of the removed wires could be causing this problem but here is a list of the removed wires and there end location.
T80/3 N239 intake change over valve
T80/6 J285 Cluster
T80/9 F47 brake switch for cruise
T80/10 E227 Cruise set button
T80/16 J293 Coolant fan control module
T80/17 J359 Relay for pre heating coolant low
T80/19 E45 Cruise control switch
T80/20 F brake light switch
T80/21 E45 Cruise control switch
T80/29 N18 Egr vacuum solenoid
T80/34 J360 Relay for coolant pre heating high
T80 /35 E45 Cruise control switch
T80/46 F36 Clutch switch
T80/48 E35 Ac switch
T80/51 J285 Cluster
At this point I'm leaning toward the problem being in the ECM and if that's the case I'm just going to go ahead and switch over to a 121 pin ecm. The 80 pin ecms are only going to get harder to find since they only made them for a few years.

Your brakes are on... seriously... if you removed F36/F47/F then the ECU will think you have pedals pressed. You need to make sure these have the correct signals to simulate the pedals not pressed.

Good guess Hasenwerk but no such luck. Going by the wiring diagram F47 and F36 both have power when at rest. I gave pins T80/9 and T80/46 power. When at rest F supply's no power or ground so I left it open. Still no throttle.

ManicMechanic said:

Good guess Hasenwerk but no such luck. Going by the wiring diagram F47 and F36 both have power when at rest. I gave pins T80/9 and T80/46 power. When at rest F supply's no power or ground so I left it open. Still no throttle.

Click to expand...

Open doesn't equal ground for F.

Correct open equals nothing. Going by the wiring diagram pin 1 of F has 12 volts at all times and will supply 12 volts to the ecm via pin 4 when the brakes are depressed. That would mean when the brake pedal is not being operated F gives no signal of any kind to the ecm. When I say I left it open I mean I did not put a wire in the terminal of the ecm.

Looks like I found the problem. I knew the gas pedals for the 98 might be different so I had my parts department order one for a 98 to make sure I got the right one. Well looks like they got me the wrong one. I was looking at a wiring diagram for a 121 pin ecm thinking I would be swapping over to one and I noticed something. When comparing the internals of the 121 pin throttle to the 80 pin throttle the pins for terminal 1,5 and 4 are in the wrong places. I switched pin 1 to pin 4, pin 5 to pin 1 and pin 4 to pin 5. Hooked the ecm up to the good old 5051B and checked measured value 2 and now I can press the throttle and watch the % climb up 100%.

If I had a dog I would name him bingo. That fixed it right up. I even drove it under it's own TDI power for the first time. I would have got a video of it but it was pitch black out.

congrats, man!

ManicMechanic said:

Correct open equals nothing. Going by the wiring diagram pin 1 of F has 12 volts at all times and will supply 12 volts to the ecm via pin 4 when the brakes are depressed. That would mean when the brake pedal is not being operated F gives no signal of any kind to the ecm. When I say I left it open I mean I did not put a wire in the terminal of the ecm.

Click to expand...

You do not see the circuit correctly. F is the Brake Light circuit and it goes to the "hot" side of the brake light. The ECU in-turn sees "ground" thru the light bulb in the brake light when the light is off. Yes, it isn't a "perfect ground" as it is a couple of ohms or so, but it does act as a pull-down resistor to make the circuit low. Putting the brakes on, 12V is present, makes it high.

Diesel pedals are Diesel pedals. The 1x6 terminals ones, with DIESEL written on the side of them, have the same pinouts and they are interchangeable. The older B4/MK3 pedal with the 2x3 terminal on them work too, but the wiring is slightly different. Early 1998 Beetles had 1x6 pedals, then 2x3 wiring in the dash with an adapter in the middle to change the pins.

We will have to agree to disagree Hasenwerk. I hooked nothing to F and it works great. I plan to leave it that way. As for the pedal I will strongly disagree with you. I work for a dealer and just for a 2002 beetle there are four different throttle pedals. While they might all plug in and even work they are not all the same. I can say for 100% some are wired different on the inside. I fixed mine by moving the pins and if they are all the same then pins 1,4 and 5 would not have need to be moved.

congrats on the first drive! i cherish that moment with every project

ManicMechanic said:

We will have to agree to disagree Hasenwerk. I hooked nothing to F and it works great. I plan to leave it that way. As for the pedal I will strongly disagree with you. I work for a dealer and just for a 2002 beetle there are four different throttle pedals. While they might all plug in and even work they are not all the same. I can say for 100% some are wired different on the inside. I fixed mine by moving the pins and if they are all the same then pins 1,4 and 5 would not have need to be moved.

Click to expand...

I'm glad it works for you. Enjoy.

Speaking of wiring here is my ECM/fuse panel/relay carrier. It mounts in the location of the stock samurai ECM. The OBD port is inside the glove box.

I finally decided it was time to start building a grill since the factory one will not fit any more.

Taking a Suzuki Samurai to to a Volkswagen show is like wearing a tuxedo T shirt to a fancy restaurant. They might let you in but every body gives you a funny look. Kinda fun though.

Makes me wonder what ever happened to my Tuxedo t-shirt

I've been away for a while but I finally put all my pics back together and I'm going to try and fix my thread where Phototbucket screwed it up. I'll be posting the progress I've made since I was here last. My Samurai has made a turn from mild to wild. Here is how it sits now.

I have my thread fixed as best as I can but I did loose a few of the pics that I had. Now on to how I went from Samurai to Samurai truck. I wanted to make a street vehicle out of it but the body was too far gone and finding a good cab is pretty hard. In comes a company called Aqualu. They build custom aluminum body's for Jeeps, Land Cruisers and Samurai's. While they do a direct replacement cab and even a long wheel base cab one of there newer cabs is a truck cab and I've always wanted a Samurai truck. A few phone calls and emails later I placed an order for my very own Samurai truck cab and front clip. While building it they even sent me some pics of the progress.

A few months later and a very log ride from Canada I have my cab. The cab is made to fit a long wheel base frame and on a short wheel base the cab almost touch's the rear tire. I knew this would be some thing to deal with and was ready with a solution. Stretch the frame. I thought about making it the same as a long wheel base but then thought why stop there. So I added 20 inch's in the frame to give it a 100 inch wheel base. This let me move the T case back and also let me push the engine 2 inches back in the frame.

After stretching the frame the cab fits great and looks pretty cool.

The truck cab has a higher and wider than stock trans tunnel to allow for larger drive trains but with a stock Samurai case the tunnel was way to high to properly shift it. So I took a plasma torch to a brand new truck body and removed the rear section of the tunnel and cut a few inches off of it to lower it down. At the same time I decided to make a cup holder for it.

After getting the cab settled in I started on the bed.

That looks sweet! I love my stretched TDI Zuki truck!

Thanks. How far did you stretch your Samurai?

There’s something about these Samurais, that I like. I’ll need to read this one, from the beginning.

-Todd

ManicMechanic said:

Thanks. How far did you stretch your Samurai?

Click to expand...

18" frame stretch, my wheelbase is around 100"

I decided to build some side steps for the Samurai.