Code P2563, Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit

We have a new 2013 TDI Passat. It had 555 miles on it last week when I fueled it up for the first time, today it has 780. We took it to the dealer, about 80 miles away for the one month courtesy check or whatever it is called. After we left the check engine light came on, and the glow plug light started blinking. The glow plug light would blink for a bit, then stop and go out. The check engine light stayed on, it is still on.

We drove back to the dealer, they pulled the code and said they need to open a case with VW as it is a new car and they have to report any issues with new cars. I actually like that, I don't want them free-styling and swapping parts on a new car.

I spoke with the guy at the dealer today, he said the tech called him and it might be a pinched vacuum hose, the tech found a TSB.

Anyone heard of this issue on a new car? I really don't want them tearing apart my wife's new Passat.

The main problem I am having is I broke my policy. Typically i do all my own work. I am not a mechanic by trade, but I grew up in my dad's shop, and have worked on cars my whole life. My rule is I never let anyone wrench on my stuff without watching. I let the car leave my sight, and now I have this stress.

I can't help but think that the guy who did the inspection on my car did something but who knows. It might just be a coincidence. I find it hard to believe he did much on a new car, probably looked at it then went and screwed off for 30 minutes, then brought it back and said everything is fine.

Either way, I have to take time off work and bring it back to the dealer this week.

Sigh.........

What was the TSB title and/or number?

He didn't tell me that.

I see no TSB in the generic info section of erWin for the problem you describe. The code is correct in what they told you it was for.

Hmmmm,

Thanks for checking on the TSB. I made the guy at the dealer give me the printout of the codes, he said they were not supposed to but I didn't really take no for an answer. I'm going to scan the printout and post it, but my scanner is acting up and I decided to put that off till tomorrow.

Today I have been playing with OBD II cables I have now and free software trying to find some way to pull codes myself. If the dealer does not fix it this week I will have to spring for Ross-Tech VCDS. I have a USB - OBDII cable which I bought to remap the ecu on my KTM Motorcycle. It works with TuneECU for my KTM, but I can't find a free software that will talk to it. The KTM software specifies it uses a cable that will talk to a new VW, so I just need to find some free software.

I should probably go read the OBDII part of the forum.

Thanks for any help.

you prob wont have any luck finding software that will work with that genaric cable.

The rosstech cable has a chip in it that talks to thier software to prevent what you're trying to do.

Even if you buy it and use it once, you can sell that cable here for 95% of what you paid for it, everyone is always looking for one, me included!

When you get to the other forum you will find the answer is to buy VCDS. The software won't work without their cable. Best money I ever spent. Not only has it saved me money, but has allowed me to help others to some small degree. I have found them used once or twice and resold them here as well for a profit. Best tool there is if you really want to know about your car. I have had mine since 2005.

Yep, I have pretty much already decided I will have to get the VCDS software. We will see what the dealer has to say before I start dropping coin on software. I will need it in the future though as I do all my own service work.

Totally OT but it may interest some of you guys. Here is the stuff I got to remap my KTM ECU.

http://www.tuneecu.com/

Possibly the worst web page I have ever visited, but damn fine software, and it is free.

To interface you need an OBD II cable and a KTM adapter cable.

This is the OBD II Cable

http://www.easy-motorcycle.com/obd2-obdii-2-usb-vag-kkl-cable-for-4091-audi-vw-skoda-p-112.html

That is a VW/Skoda cable that supports can bus communication so it should work.

That being said I will buy the whole package from Ross Tech because it works, and I want to support his business as the software and cable for $250 is a good price.

BTW the VCDS software is free, it's the cable you need to buy.

I have to agree the VCDS cable has been worth the money. I have used it many times myself, even on my Jeep as on OBD reader, and helped many fellow TDI'ers or other VW owners check the codes.

I keep it in the car, so as long as I have my laptop I can assist anyone.

Thanks guys.

I'm going to get the software and cable in the future. Right now I am going to let the dealer sort it out. it is a new car, they are required to open a case with VW. I will keep a close eye on them.

I took the car in today, dropped it off, took the loaner shopping. They called me a few hours later, said it was fixed. There was a poorly routed vacuum line that was kinked. They rerouted it and cleared the fault, took it for a test drive and now all it well. The car ran fine on the way home.

I asked for the TSB number, the customer service guy said he would get it and email it to me. I doubt if I will ever see that.

I was told there is some vacuum valve on the firewall and a vacuum hose goes to a servo on the turbo, that is where the issue was.

Have any of you heard of this?

Does a shop benefit from warranty work? Perhaps it is wrong for me to think this, but business is slow, let's bill a few hours to VW North America.

As long as all the lights stay off, this car won't go to the dealer again.

It's my understanding that a dealeship has to jump through some serious hoops to get "paid" for warranty work. It makes sense to me that if VWoA corporate can be difficult with the customer, they can be difficult with their dealerships, too.

I may be way off the mark, and someone will correct me, but I don't get the feeling that dealerships are swimming in their profits.

I had the same code this week- vacuum house came loose from hose clips, rubbed a hole while against the fan motor- hose came from the intake. Repaired the hose with a barbed hose coupling for 2.50, and tapped up. Dealer wanted $55 for new hose plus diagnostic hook up charge. All cels and codes are gone.