leadbear
Member
First of all I would like to thank everyone for their help on here. This page has proven to be a valuable resource over the past few years.
Here is my situation. 04 vw jetta sedan BEW with 350,000 miles. Auto trans has about 140, 000 on it. I can not get the car to start. It turns over and it kinda sputter like one cylinder is firing but nothing. To get it started I have to use a small shot of starting fluid (I know this isn't good but I'm at a loss). When I do get it started I have to keep my foot on the gas, RPMs up, to keep it running until the engine almost reaches normal operating temp.
Then car runs fine. It doesnt miss, I can feel turbo working, no problems at all.
The only codes codes that have come up were do to the excessive cranking such as crank sensor, MAF sensor, and a no speed on the auto trans. Also a code for the ECU comes up during the long cranking. Also the glow plug light blinks after to long of excessive cranking.
I parked one night and the next morning the no start started. Ran perfect that day, no noticeable problems. This has been 8 months ago.
Here is a list of the parts I have changed in these past 8 months and the order I have changed them and things I have checked.
Anti shudder valve
Grounds under battery tray
Crank sensor
Cam sensor
In tank fuel pump (lift pump) the pump was bad and probably was the original problem
Tandum pump
All 4 injectors
MAF sensor
Fuel filters
Plastic T on top of fuel filter
Several fuel lines that were showing signs of wear
On a side note, after setting the injectors the car started and ran good for about 6 weeks. Then starting going back to her old ways.
Changed timing belt, water pump, etc.
Changed camshaft
Injector wiring harness under valve cover
The problem of warming up the engine was present before the timing belt and camshaft job. After the job it still wouldn't start without starting fluid but didnt need to warm up before keeping its idle. But after a week it slowly started to need to be warmed up before idling. After the camshaft timing job, I was adjusting the timing and I could either get it to start when engine was cold, or start when the engine was warmed up, but not both.
Now it doesnt start either way, engine just surges or splitters and will not keep idle.
I have the free version of vag-com and when it is running my injector values are: -0.09, -0.24, +0.16, +0.14.
The torsion value for group 4 that I use to adjust timing is currently set at -2.5. I have tried many other settings both positive, negative, and 0.0 and nothing has worked.
I am currently thinking I could have a bad catalytic converter. It looks to be original. I also have seemed to have developed a good oil leak at the turbo over the past 3 months, have not pin pointed exactly where at from turbo, but would like to get current problem fixed before tackling turbo.
Could this all be because of a bad catalytic converter?
Please help, a second opinion and a new set of eyes on the situation is allways appreciate.
Here is my situation. 04 vw jetta sedan BEW with 350,000 miles. Auto trans has about 140, 000 on it. I can not get the car to start. It turns over and it kinda sputter like one cylinder is firing but nothing. To get it started I have to use a small shot of starting fluid (I know this isn't good but I'm at a loss). When I do get it started I have to keep my foot on the gas, RPMs up, to keep it running until the engine almost reaches normal operating temp.
Then car runs fine. It doesnt miss, I can feel turbo working, no problems at all.
The only codes codes that have come up were do to the excessive cranking such as crank sensor, MAF sensor, and a no speed on the auto trans. Also a code for the ECU comes up during the long cranking. Also the glow plug light blinks after to long of excessive cranking.
I parked one night and the next morning the no start started. Ran perfect that day, no noticeable problems. This has been 8 months ago.
Here is a list of the parts I have changed in these past 8 months and the order I have changed them and things I have checked.
Anti shudder valve
Grounds under battery tray
Crank sensor
Cam sensor
In tank fuel pump (lift pump) the pump was bad and probably was the original problem
Tandum pump
All 4 injectors
MAF sensor
Fuel filters
Plastic T on top of fuel filter
Several fuel lines that were showing signs of wear
On a side note, after setting the injectors the car started and ran good for about 6 weeks. Then starting going back to her old ways.
Changed timing belt, water pump, etc.
Changed camshaft
Injector wiring harness under valve cover
The problem of warming up the engine was present before the timing belt and camshaft job. After the job it still wouldn't start without starting fluid but didnt need to warm up before keeping its idle. But after a week it slowly started to need to be warmed up before idling. After the camshaft timing job, I was adjusting the timing and I could either get it to start when engine was cold, or start when the engine was warmed up, but not both.
Now it doesnt start either way, engine just surges or splitters and will not keep idle.
I have the free version of vag-com and when it is running my injector values are: -0.09, -0.24, +0.16, +0.14.
The torsion value for group 4 that I use to adjust timing is currently set at -2.5. I have tried many other settings both positive, negative, and 0.0 and nothing has worked.
I am currently thinking I could have a bad catalytic converter. It looks to be original. I also have seemed to have developed a good oil leak at the turbo over the past 3 months, have not pin pointed exactly where at from turbo, but would like to get current problem fixed before tackling turbo.
Could this all be because of a bad catalytic converter?
Please help, a second opinion and a new set of eyes on the situation is allways appreciate.