What did you do to your MKIV today?

PakProtector said:

I have the Cupra-R on all four of ours. Making that upgrade was the first thing I did when the 2DR Golf arrived and I really should put a set on the shelf... They are quite easy to install with a bit o' 7/16 all thread and the HF kit one would use to install/RR front hub wheel bearings. Getting the olde ones out is no chore either; a big air hammer and a bushing splitter chisel makes short work of it. It can get a wee bit messy if the oil from the OE ones has not yet left the building...

All in all, sounds scary, but is really simple. On the car no less...

Douglas

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Heh, funny but just a couple hours after I said I didn’t have an air hammer, my Dad calls, he’s at a garage sale, asks if I want these two air hammers and a couple bits for $5, umm heck yeah perfect timing!
Just a crappy Mastercraft and a little Sanborn made in Taiwan but hey, I’ll take what I can for that price. The Sanborn works well.

J_dude said:

Heh, funny but just a couple hours after I said I didn’t have an air hammer, my Dad calls, he’s at a garage sale, asks if I want these two air hammers and a couple bits for $5, umm heck yeah perfect timing!
Just a crappy Mastercraft and a little Sanborn made in Taiwan but hey, I’ll take what I can for that price. The Sanborn works well.

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Good score!

well didn't break 50mpg on the trip to maine, but given the driving involved, not too bad - 739mi round trip for 47.6mpg. ended up making a lot more stops along the way in both directions (kids), good amount of traffic around boston in both directions. drive up, was quite hot and windows down and did a lot of 75-80mph. then a bunch of tooting around in in ME going to some areas for little hikes, and driving back down route 1 for a good chunk going through small towns, traffic, making little stops etc. but i still feel something is still amiss in the tune, i know boost control isn't spot on. but can't complain too much, a 3day trip from cape cod to acadia on one tank with an automatic trans

Gertrude (2dr Golf) is finally on all 4 wheels. The following happened over the last 2 months...

Front brakes (Akebono pads, Zimmermann rotors)
All 4 fender pockets cleaned out, fronts scuffed & painted with oil base Rustoleum
Panzer plate with FMJ
Timing belt service with high mileage kit
11mm IP
Fuel filter
Engine air filter
Engine oil change w/ filter
Cabin air filter
Cup holder center console
Arm rest installed
New Shift knob and boot
Full DieselGeek shifter bushing kit installed
Jetta lay flat vents installed
Front bumper swapped
Fuel door swapped
Ventectomy performed
Euro switch installed
Husky liners
Vented fender liner
FrostHeater installed
BRM intake
Jetta Avus wheels/tires installed
3 new wiper blades
New washer fluid pump
Smoked GTI Taillights
Antenna base and mast
Gearbox oil change
Serpentine belt
Serpentine belt tensioner assembly with shock

JDSwan87 said:

Gertrude (2dr Golf) is finally on all 4 wheels. The following happened over the last 2 months...

Front brakes (Akebono pads, Zimmermann rotors)
All 4 fender pockets cleaned out, fronts scuffed & painted with oil base Rustoleum
Panzer plate with FMJ
Timing belt service with high mileage kit
11mm IP
Fuel filter
Engine air filter
Engine oil change w/ filter
Cabin air filter
Cup holder center console
Arm rest installed
New Shift knob and boot
Full DieselGeek shifter bushing kit installed
Jetta lay flat vents installed
Front bumper swapped
Fuel door swapped
Ventectomy performed
Euro switch installed
Husky liners
Vented fender liner
FrostHeater installed
BRM intake
Jetta Avus wheels/tires installed

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DAAAANG what did that cost you?

J_dude said:

DAAAANG what did that cost you?

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I really don't want to tally it up. I'm afraid to actually...

JDSwan87 said:

I really don't want to tally it up. I'm afraid to actually...

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Hahaha yep me too, I've put way too much into mine in the last month alone

I worked on both of them today, pulled bumpers, fenders, and lock carriers from my ‘03 TDI and the ‘04 gasser parts car. Going to be doing a grand swaparoo with all these parts, as my TDI fenders are rusty, the bumper is kinda rough, and the lock carrier is missing the bottom cross-piece and also a bunch of the holes are cross threaded. I was a little hesitant going into this but it’s all pretty easy actually, all this *might* have taken four hours, and I was taking my time as it was all new to me.
Seems the gasser rad is the same size as the TDI and in much better shape so I want to swap rad and condenser too but I think I’ll have to pass, I don’t want to deal with AC...

Also discovered my intercooler has a broken mounting tab, but the one from the 1.8T is different, it’s thinner... grrrr.

J_dude said:

I worked on both of them today, pulled bumpers, fenders, and lock carriers from my ‘03 TDI and the ‘04 gasser parts car. Going to be doing a grand swaparoo with all these parts, as my TDI fenders are rusty, the bumper is kinda rough, and the lock carrier is missing the bottom cross-piece and also a bunch of the holes are cross threaded. I was a little hesitant going into this but it’s all pretty easy actually, all this *might* have taken four hours, and I was taking my time as it was all new to me.
Seems the gasser rad is the same size as the TDI and in much better shape so I want to swap rad and condenser too but I think I’ll have to pass, I don’t want to deal with AC...

‘03 lock carrier removed

• J_dude
• Jul 9, 2023

‘04 lock carrier removed

• J_dude
• Jul 9, 2023

Also discovered my intercooler has a broken mounting tab, but the one from the 1.8T is different, it’s thinner... grrrr.

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I've got a good unbroken intercooler if you need one.

J_dude said:

Hmm where can I see pics of this?

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Lesjofors (sp?) wagon springs + 2x10mm spacer up front.
OE wagon springs + 20mm lift rear.
205-65-15 tires

Mozambiquer said:

I've got a good unbroken intercooler if you need one.

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I was kinda thinking I might use the broken one as an excuse to upgrade though.
Not sure it would be worthwhile to ship one all this way anyhow... but I do appreciate the offer!

Successfully got rid of the airbag fault codes from the seatbelt latches on the TT seats retrofit.

(BTW, if anyone needs a resistor in just about any flavour, let me know; I now have 399 left over from the 400-pack I bought. )

J_Dude what a fun looking homestead you have going.
I replaced a door lock module today.
Don’t want to rip the seat after unlocking door with 10 seconds to turn key before it’d set the alarm off. Now I can ease backside into position more smoothly.
Couple days ago I got a vented fender liner in.

Fahrvegnugen said:

J_Dude what a fun looking homestead you have going.
I replaced a door lock module today.
Don’t want to rip the seat after unlocking door with 10 seconds to turn key before it’d set the alarm off. Now I can ease backside into position more smoothly.
Couple days ago I got a vented fender liner in.

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Oh yes, thank you, I’ve got quite the collection happening.

Need me a vented fender liner one of these days too, but I’ve only ever seen one Jetta City at a wrecker so far. Might hafta buy new...

Not super fun to buy it but I had to see if it would help temps. Was going to drill/Dremel the original liner out but I need to blockout road salt with a downward pointing vent.

i say just remove the liner altogether and take a log and see how much it helps first

as far as IATs. i've found removing the convoluted "CAI" ducting around the battery actually helps. have had wife's car that way for years, and trust me, i monitor temps as i constantly log. i also have a similar setup on my mk1 and mk3 (with or without snorkels to "colder" air from below - both should be betting least resistance air flow from not-engine bay, no measurable difference). previously i had cut out the the bottom of the airbox to accept r32 snorkel. but then just threw all that out, or sold it. didn't seem to have any affect on IATs, and the benefit of never getting **** stuck in there or water/snow splashed up right into the grill into the ducting. win win IMO

Fahrvegnugen said:

Not super fun to buy it but I had to see if it would help temps. Was going to drill/Dremel the original liner out but I need to blockout road salt with a downward pointing vent.

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Yeah the old ones on my car were wrecked as a result of coming loose and blowing back against the tire at speed, (PO’s fault, I fixed em up) and the tire had really packed the intercooler full of mud. Doesn’t do much good that way LOL.

As for what I accomplished today, not as much as I would have liked but I ended up pulling the front doors off as I will be swapping them with my parts car as well and also needed room to address some rust on the passenger side. Not entirely decided on how I’m going to deal with the rust yet, it’s not bad I just want to keep it from spreading.

Also discovered some paint peeling on my A-pillar, results of a poor repair job from an accident from sometime in this car’s former life. I guess I’ll clean it up as best I can and rattle-can it for now.
And my buddy (autobody tech) generously offered to polish my spare headlights for the cost of shop supplies ($5) so I helped him do that after hours. They aren’t perfect by any means but it’s definitely an improvement! I haven’t decided yet if I prefer the amber or clear turn signal lenses, I have a set of each and I want to HID retrofit one of them.
Crappy before pic:

After:
Waiting for lower rad mounts to show up before I install these headlights and the “new” lock carrier.
Also installed the 1.8T pancake pipe and started on rear wheel bearings this evening after picking up a 1 3/16” 12pt socket. Yes I have way too many things going on at once

burpod said:

i say just remove the liner altogether and take a log and see how much it helps first

as far as IATs. i've found removing the convoluted "CAI" ducting around the battery actually helps. have had wife's car that way for years, and trust me, i monitor temps as i constantly log. i also have a similar setup on my mk1 and mk3 (with or without snorkels to "colder" air from below - both should be betting least resistance air flow from not-engine bay, no measurable difference). previously i had cut out the the bottom of the airbox to accept r32 snorkel. but then just threw all that out, or sold it. didn't seem to have any affect on IATs, and the benefit of never getting **** stuck in there or water/snow splashed up right into the grill into the ducting. win win IMO

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So you’re running a “bottomless” airbox? I’m sure there’s a lot of controversy about that sucking hot underhood air

J_dude said:

So you’re running a “bottomless” airbox? I’m sure there’s a lot of controversy about that sucking hot underhood air

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no, i don't think so lol. i just enlarged the snorkel inlet and removed the snorkel and the rest of the BS IATs are no worse at the very least . possibly improved, but i've never bothered to put that crap back, spend a couple hours with that and re-testing and determining if IATs have gone down or up by 0-5C lol

burpod said:

no, i don't think so lol. i just enlarged the snorkel inlet and removed the snorkel and the rest of the BS IATs are no worse at the very least . possibly improved, but i've never bothered to put that crap back, spend a couple hours with that and re-testing and determining if IATs have gone down or up by 0-5C lol

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if you look at the bay and think about the flow, its going to be getting the same/similar draft of "cold" air. just another little piece of over-engineering imo and as i've said, i monitor IATs - trip to maine few days ago, going up there it was pretty hot, up thru boston in traffic etc was like 84F outside. IATs were completely sane and fine, in traffic, perhaps a hair hotter, but nothing to note. once moving along, all good

burpod said:

if you look at the bay and think about the flow, its going to be getting the same/similar draft of "cold" air. just another little piece of over-engineering imo and as i've said, i monitor IATs - trip to maine few days ago, going up there it was pretty hot, up thru boston in traffic etc was like 84F outside. IATs were completely sane and fine, in traffic, perhaps a hair hotter, but nothing to note. once moving along, all good

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I guess that would make sense. If we leave the scoop/shroud thing behind the headlight intact and just remove the pipe and snow screen it will still direct that air down along the fender and battery but allow for more “breathability” for the airbox I guess? And maybe open up the inlet to the airbox a bit like you mentioned too. Interesting.

J_dude said:

I guess that would make sense. If we leave the scoop/shroud thing behind the headlight intact and just remove the pipe and snow screen it will still direct that air down along the fender and battery but allow for more “breathability” for the airbox I guess? And maybe open up the inlet to the airbox a bit like you mentioned too. Interesting.

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try it, and log it. its better to log stuff like that with custom measuring blocks tho for better sample rate i just say gut it all, open up the snorkel areaon the airbox with a dremel/razor. but for standard measuring blocks i'd just log 011-007 (iirc 007 has the IATs)

Well the in tank pump I installed a little over a month ago blew a line ( did the west coast mod, install a check valve and hoses to allow IP to suck fuel if pump dies ) a couple of days ago it was getting hard to start the car to the point where it was taking 10 seconds to get car started. Pulled pump and found pressure line split wide open. Installed the spare unadulterated pump I have car starts as it should.
Just for S&G’s I was able to suck fuel with the pump off so the above mod was not needed, I was under the assumption that that wouldn’t happen.

Did my first top side oil change. Used an ABN 6L vacuum extractor ($75).
I'm hooked, anxious try this out on other vehicles.
Biggest problem is cleaning the reservoir.

Why clean it, just rinse out the line with brake cleaner.

Wait - we're supposed to be cleaning these things?!
I just cap it and call it a day; it's only ever seeing "dirty" oil that's going to the recycling centre, so "contamination" isn't really a concern.

Yea we cleaned the tubes, seems the dirty reservoir should be fine. Quick rinse should suffice.
I overthink, plus I remember pulling out my Motive brake bleeder after it sat dirty for a while. Hose exploded when pressurized............

J_dude said:

Need me a vented fender liner one of these days too, but I’ve only ever seen one Jetta City at a wrecker so far. Might hafta buy new...

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with temperatures approaching 110F this weekend, this is a mod I've been considering. Is there any empirical proof that the vented liner behind the SMIC actually brings down temps? Yeah I could log, but just curious if anyone's already done it.

ducatipaso said:

Is there any imperial proof that the vented liner behind the SMIC actually brings down temps?

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Adding to that inquiry, is there anything saying that having the liners missing entirely helps or hinders cooling?

My right wheel well liner has been missing as long as I've had the car, so almost 9 years and 160,000 miles.

hey_allen said:

Adding to that inquiry, is there anything saying that having the liners missing entirely helps or hinders cooling?

My right wheel well liner has been missing as long as I've had the car, so almost 9 years and 160,000 miles.

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my biggest concern about not running the liner at all is all that road debris that would over time get tossed at the SMIC and potentially damage it. Have you inspected yours?

Honestly, there's a whole bunch of potential solutions for this, I seem to recall on vortex way back in the day that someone used a home depot attic vent cover similar to this