Measuring block #13, one cylinder too high

PD TDI missing/stumbling - measuring block #13, one cylinder too high

PD TDI (1.9TDI 130 hp) having some slight "missing" under load. Measuring block #13 shows the following values at idle:
#1: -1.60
#2: -2,05
#3: 2.99
#4: 2.05
Cylinder #3 is on the max of the adjustment range, and they are pretty much all kinda "out", although the limit is +/- 2.8.
The injectors #1 and #3 were replaced with used items a few months ago by a shop. Is there a possibility that the shop can have messed up the lash adjustment, and doing a new adjustment might fix the problem?

If the lash is not set and it drives the injector pump too far down, it can damage your injector.

It is much more likely, in my experience, that they did not get the seals installed right.

This will let cylinder gases leak through the O-rings and into your fuel rail. The inectors downstream of the leak get air and fuel mixed, and cannot operate properly.

Put a clear fuel line (8mm id) (really any clear plastic line will do for a short test - it does not have to be fuel rated, just use it for 10 minutes or so) from the return line on the tandem pump to the thermo Tee on your fuel filter. Make the line longer than normal, so you can put a high loop in it.

Start the engine and watch for bubbles. There may be a few to start with, since you had the system opened. Within 5 minutes no more bubbles should be visible - solid fuel only.

If you have bubbles, the seals are not working.

Oh, by the way, I think anything over 2 mg/stroke balance signal calls for almost immediate service.

Just because VW says 2.8 is ok does not make it so.

Ok, thanks, will check this out! I know the values are pretty bad.. But MB #23 looks better, or what do you think?

Start with lash adjustment. It's not that hard, a DIY. This would eliminate the possibility of bad adjustment.

BTW, what mileage does the engine have?

Yeah, I will. Too bad I fixed the leaky valve cover gasket two weeks ago, now it's all over again with most of the job..

Will check the lash, install new parts and adjust according to specs if necessary.

The engine was replaced with a rebuilt one 15k miles ago due to the previous owner over-tightening the glow plugs, one plug broke off and fell into cylinder #1 with the engine running. Go figure the rest out.. I bought the car with a damaged engine.

Don't forget you can make the adjustment without the dial gauge. Frank has posted some instructions about how to do that. Search for a thread named like easy pd adjustment or sth like that

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=306911
This will help you. Don't take your car to a mechanic, do it yourself instead. Those mechanics like to make experiments (not on their cars, of course) and very ofter screw things up.

Also, be sure to report us back how did the adjustment change (or didn't change) the #13 values! Feedback is much appreciated here, so people will know how to troubleshoot better next time.

BTW, how's your fuel economy with those #13 readings?

I will check this out, thanks a lot.

Fuel economy is.. well.. it's ok, but not very good. It's getting 35-40 mpg, should be no problem getting 45 mpg on longer distances. Hopefully, this will be better when everything is fixed. Will check the cam timing too - what value should I opt for on a 1.9 130 hp engine? Code AVF.

As far as I know, there's no recommended value. Keeping it at 0 - 0.5 is a good idea. Note that 0 also means 'out of range' so you must be sure it's actually 0 and not the out of range reading. Easiest method to check this, I think, is to accelerate hard (even in idle, I think). This should change the reading .5 to one or another side.

Actually, I've seen measurements up to +1 to -1 without adverse affect.

But in this case, the measurement 2.99 is maximum deviation and the ECU is attempting to rectify the poor performance of that cylinder by adding fuel. Regardless of the reason for the weak cylinder, the only method available to balance the engine is by adding or subtracting fuel in the ECU's fuel compensation program.

The imbalance could be a clogged injector hole. I have resolved that issue occasionally by the use of a diesel purge as Paramedick (Bruce Bowling) does it, by directly looping the purge ahead of the fuel filter and running the engine strictly on purge until a liter of the stuff is used up. Although it does not always work, it is worth a try if other non-invasive methods don't work.

I can only expect you inspected the cam while the valve cover was off. If you see any galling on the base circle of the cam or sharp corners at the top of the lobe, your performance issue is related to cam wear.

Also, just because you removed the vavle cover is no reason to replace the valve cover gasket. A dab of RTV at the corners of the cam caps will help the gasket. As long as the gasket is pliant and you install it carefully, the gasket is very reusable.
The final option is to either fix or replace the injector.

i have a 2007 golf pd with BMN engine at 100k...
engine feels lumpy when cold and can be little hard to start only from first cold start in the morning...
took these figures on idle today with vagcom...

cyl#1....0.05
cyl#2....-0.29
cyl#3....+0.48
cyl#4....-0.20

can anybody with tech knowledge read into this and see an issue???
thanks

Those do not look bad to me, probably not bad enough to cause hard starting. Even when the numbers are 1.0 mg per stroke off, you usually just get some vibration, not hard starting. You are less than 0.5 mg per stroke out of balance, I usually consider that "good", with less than 0.25 mg per stroke being excellent.

thanks dan....
keeps throwing up P0671,2,3, and 4 code after a difficult start....
had all 4 glowplugs done in last 500 miles but still the same,tested the originals and all worked fine...
any ideas??
when i say hard start,i mean maybe 3 seconds longer on starter to fire up compared to half turn before

I would look at voltage and power issues.
Those codes mean that the current flow through each glow plug is not what the ECU expects it to be.
This can come from bad grounds, bad voltage control on the alternator, rapidly changing starter current loads.
Clean the grounds under the battery (probably 3), clean the battery connections.
Clean the major ground from the chassis to the engine.
Clean the ground near the ECU.
Inspect the large power fuse holder for good connection.

Your starter must reliably turn the engine over at more than 200 rpm without dragging the system voltages too low for the ECU to work. Certainly it should not drop battery voltage lower than 9.5 volts.

I have seen these codes from bad grounds, bad starter, huge drag on the starter from alternator bearings going out (found this by starting without the accessor belt in place), or simply a bad voltage regulator on the alternator.