Fuel filter w/o vag com

Hey just wondering can I change my fuel filter without the vagcom tool? I was searching some one person claims it’s ok to do as long as you re fill the container that holds the filter. Is this ok? Can’t afford the tool right now just dropped 1100$ on flywheel dsg.


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Don't.

You'll still have air trapped. Not worth risking the HP pump.

I'd get a $20 blue cable off ebay before risking it. If you're that hard up for cash I'm sure someone near you has a VCDS or Obdeleven that will meet up with you. Literally takes 30 seconds. I believe vortex has a list of people with cables in various locations, Audizine, etc.

Thx for the info. I will not take the risk. Just wanted clarification. The blue cable and odb11 I can do soon but not the 400$ cable.


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CaptainAF said:

What about this??
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Click to expand...

I dont think you can activate the fuel with that. Get OBDELEVEN for like $100 and you can do it for sure.

Copy that thx. I will order it tonight. Thx again!!


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I’ve done all of mine on my 2010 CJAA w/o VCDS.
Never had a problem.
Purchased with 7.4k miles and currently have 195k miles. Original HPFP.

Slowly draw the fuel filter out, set it on the housing at an angle and let it drain for a while while you do the oil filter (assmuning you’re doing a 20k/40k service).
Add a little more fuel if you think it needs it. Slowly insert the new one allowing fuel to flow into the filter. Prep your engine bay to catch any spills.

Remember, these things only failed enough for VW to extend us a warranty - not issue a recall.
I realize I’m pretty ignorant, and I’m telling you “it’s fine to not do it by the book”.
You make your own choices of course. I’m just sharing my mileage, and there’s plenty of others on here that have done plenty of fuel filter changes without VCDS without mishap.

I'd wager that over 90% of these filters get changed without vcds priming. Manual priming works fine. We're a little fanatical around here when it comes to certain maintenance procedures.

Some people have also pulled the connector from the in tank pump and jumpered 12 V across it to prime the filter. VCDS primes with both pumps of course and that can be done manually too. In general I agree with D Cup but I have VCDS so I use it.

Maybe you can go without the tool with no ill effects.

My point was more that for the cost of a cheap cable on eBay, or a minor cost increase for the OBDeleven tool, it's not really worth taking the risk (to me).

Yes you can soak the new filter and overfill the canister to prevent trapped air, but if it binds up just once because you mess up, is the cost really worthwhile?

This all coming from a guy whose job is refinery maintenance, and believe me... I take some liberal shortcuts at certain times. But there are other points where I won't. At all. It's all down to your comfort level, and your own risk tolerance.

i bought my 2010 golf tdi brand new, sold it back to vw last year with 255k. Never once used vcds to prime the pump.... just put in the new filter and closed her up.

Easy peasy!


After you've changed the FF, drain and cleaned the housing, fill the filter canister with your favorite diesel additive (I like Diesel Kleen) and seal it back up. When you go to start it do so knowing that it may sputter on you.



n all all of my FF changes I only had one that got away on me because I didn't rev it up when I started it. Luckily I live on a hill so I was able to bump start it w/o any issue.

I’m convinced the HPFP failures are due to a (or some) bad batch(es) during the manifacturing process. No, I don’t have any evidence of that - only a derived conclusion from reading on this forum.
It seems like if they’re going to fail, they’ll do it relatively early.
Most HPFP failures (I’d wager north of 90%) happened before 50k miles.
Very few have happened between 50k-80k, and I think maybe 2(?) - reported on this forum at least - have happened beyond 100k, and I don’t recall one after 120k (or first timing belt service). Check the thread on this topic - I might be wrong.

Anyway, it seems to be luck of the draw on these. Yes, abuse might destroy a good one. But pampering isn’t going to preserve a bad one. Regular acceleration and/or highway cruising will do that.

Some of us are strapped for cash, some of us are not. Is doing a fuel filter change without using VCDS going to explode your otherwise perfect CP4? Probably not.
You do what you think is best for you. Whatever gives you more smiles per mile. Enjoy the car.

never used vagcom to prime the filter and no issues starting it up post filter change or later on. I Just replaced my fuel filter on my wagon after purchasing (completed the 20k service due to not knowing if it was done as this was a buy back vehicle)it. I dropped the new filter into the bowl with fuel in it, cycled the key a few times and then started it. No issues with starting or any other issues as well. Also, if the pump goes out...i really don't care as its a warranty covered item. However, logically speaking, i cannot see how replacing the fuel filter this way will damage the pump in any way. There is fuel in the bowl at startup so no lubricity is lacking at the pump due to no fuel etc. Anyways, do what gives you peace of mind. On my previous mk3 and mk4's i would bleed the air out by removing fuel lines but this obviously is a diff system

Does anyone have experience priming the system using an Autel MX808? I haven't tried yet, but before I start wasting time out in 10F weather, figure I'd ask on here. Once I get to look at it, I'll report back if the MX808 can/can't run the fuel pump to fill the filter housing and prime the system.

Been changing them without vcds for years on multiple cars and I own vcds. Just fill the filter canister with fuel is what I do. I don't feel like booting a laptop and plugging in cable and navigating that horrid software.

Try it with everything still buttoned up. You should be able to hear the electric pumps running. I'd just wait for the weather to warm up some. My fuel filters never showed any signs of blockage. I'm sure they could have easily gone 100k miles.

Dealer doesn't take the extra time to do this and I never have. Pre-fill the filter and cycle the key without starting a few times and be done with it.

iamatt said:

Been changing them without vcds for years on multiple cars and I own vcds. Just fill the filter canister with fuel is what I do. I don't feel like booting a laptop and plugging in cable and navigating that horrid software.

Click to expand...

thankfully if it works on the MX808, it's much easier than dealing with a laptop.

turbobrick240 said:

Try it with everything still buttoned up. You should be able to hear the electric pumps running. I'd just wait for the weather to warm up some. My fuel filters never showed any signs of blockage. I'm sure they could have easily gone 100k miles.

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yep, plan is to test first before it's time to actually change the filter. i'll try to snag the garage away from my wife for long enough to test...

whatever the case, i'll let you guys know!

Couple honest questions:

-- Does cycling the ignition prime the filter canister, or just the lift pump, in the tank?

-- Why bother emptying and cleaning the fuel filter pot when changing the filter when that just adds more potential to contaminate the fuel system, plus cost more money using more additive than is suggested on the bottle's directions?

-- How sensitive are the CP4 pump's design to cavitation versus, say, the CP3 or CP4.1?

I emptied the canister into a mason jar to see if there was any water- never found any. Refilled with clean fuel, closed it up, always fired right up. There's always fuel in the pump(unless you install a new one), so it won't cavitate as long as you refill the canister.

Fear: That is the only reason I drained and cleaned the canister.


I have a few photos from our old 2010 that showed a bit of particulate in the bottom. Chances are taking the old one out and placing the new one in some of that particulate is going to get stirred up and end up on the wrong side of the filter.

wasn't able to find anywhere in the MX808 where i could run the lift pump to prime the system. oh well, now we know!

sloinker said:

Dealer doesn't take the extra time to do this and I never have. Pre-fill the filter and cycle the key without starting a few times and be done with it.

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Cycling the key on a 2009 and later does absolutely nothing.

Also, I would not waste my money on a cheap cable or OBD11.

People get so anal about this. Just install the filter, prime the housing with power service, close up the filter and start the car. Done. The power service will be mixed with Diesel and recirculated back to the tank through the return rather quickly. You prime with power service because you know it is clean, cheap, won't harm your engine and it saves you from having to go buy Diesel for priming.

You have to remember that a lot of people that shout the virtues of VCDS really don't understand it's purpose anyway. You can prime with VCDS, or not. Doesn't really make much difference with the 2009+ CR engines.

Ol'Rattler said:

Cycling the key on a 2009 and later does absolutely nothing.

Also, I would not waste my money on a cheap cable or OBD11.

People get so anal about this. Just install the filter, prime the housing with power service, close up the filter and start the car. Done. The power service will be mixed with Diesel and recirculated back to the tank through the return rather quickly. You prime with power service because you know it is clean, cheap, won't harm your engine and it saves you from having to go buy Diesel for priming.

You have to remember that a lot of people that shout the virtues of VCDS really don't understand it's purpose anyway. You can prime with VCDS, or not. Doesn't really make much difference with the 2009+ CR engines.

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Two minor observations:
1) diesel is cheaper than fuel additive
2) filling the filter pot with additive will be waaaayyyy over the recommended proportions (not that it's likely to hurt, but see point 1).

PRY4SNO said:

Two minor observations:
1) diesel is cheaper than fuel additive
2) filling the filter pot with additive will be waaaayyyy over the recommended proportions (not that it's likely to hurt, but see point 1).

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1. True. I use 4 OZ of PS every tank so I don't have to go to the hassle of buying a fuel can and buying diesel and storing Diesel because I always have a supply of PS.
2. Power service will get cycled back to the tank and diluted very quickly and even running it straight for less than 15 seconds until it gets diluted will not hurt anything.

I don't have to fill the canister because on my BRM the Lift pump runs every time you go to run. Last FF I forgot to cycle the key and it started right up.

If I replaced the FF on a CR I would imagine that on a CR it would be the same way if you didn't fill the canister. With a dry canister the lift pump and HPFP are never out of fuel for more than a few seconds if at all when you do a FF change.

I meant the overall ratios, not just what's in the FF pot... because of course it cycles back to the tank. Not that more additive will harm anything -- my point was simply that it's more expensive.

You are correct about the fact that for the same amount of diesel it is cheaper than the same amount of Power Service-Diesel Kleen. I do agree with that fact.

A little added expense to avoid the hassle of having to go buy a Diesel can, buying some Diesel and storing the Diesel for something you do every 20K miles? If I was doing a CR FF, I would gladly pay the extra dollar or 2 for the convenience of just using some PS that I have on the shelf already.

As a plus having some undiluted PS going through the injectors briefly will tend to clean them some.
https://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-kleen-cetane-boost/

Ol'Rattler said:

As a plus having some undiluted PS going through the injectors briefly will tend to clean them some.
https://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-kleen-cetane-boost/

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Yeah that's the same stuff I use almost every fill up. Works really well. By my calculations the cost of additive is more than offset by the gain in mileage. Great product.

And good point about cleaning the injectors. I'll have to give that a go on the next FF change (in a week or so) as winter diesel around here isn't the highest quality.

PRY4SNO said:

winter diesel around here isn't the highest quality.

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How do you know that?