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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old March 20th, 2009, 19:02   #46
MOGolf
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Yes it is the third three in the lower right third of the diagram. It goes on the end of pipe 15 (there's only one 15).

To reiterate, N 903 653 02 for older o-ring (Jetta up to VIN 9M-Y-085 000, NB up to 1C-Y-452 905) and 06B 121 687 for newer (and all Golfs). If your VIN is close that split, then get one of each rather than get one and find the other.
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Old March 28th, 2009, 10:49   #47
JPR
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Default New O-ring seems too narrow

MOgolf,

By disconnecting more hoses, I was able to get the pipe out to where I can easily remove, clean, and replace the o-ring. However the new o-ring seems about 1/32 too narrow for the groove that it slips into. The black line under the o-ring is remaining groove gap. I also included a picture of the old o-ring which seems slightly wider. I used the part number that you posted earlier in this thread and purchased from worldimpex. Does the o-ring simply compress and spread out to fill the groove when I insert it back into the block?
[IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG]
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Old March 28th, 2009, 10:52   #48
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Here is the other picture, for some reason it it didn't post in my previous post.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old March 28th, 2009, 18:27   #49
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That will work just fine. It should fit snug when the pipe is put back in. It's the diameter that is important.
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Old March 28th, 2009, 18:55   #50
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That's good. It was indeed snug going back in. I had to apply as much force pushing as I did pulling. I was sure glad to have had the injector fuel lines out of the way while wrestling around with that pipe.
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Old April 6th, 2009, 13:16   #51
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Well, I finally had a chance to dig in and perform the needed operation. I was successful in replacing the O-Ring but all the while I struggled with the coolant pipe I was thinking, "I cant belive I am doing all this for a 1.50$ part!" Despite my bruised forearms and hunched back I was proud once I was done .

Seems to have resolved the issue and thats good news, the bad news is I managed to lose the dang spring clip that holds my needle sensor together while I was putting it on it snapped out of my hands and flew away . In addition to that I broke the retaining clip on the plug of the temp sensor, its on but I have to find a way to make it permanent. Can I replace the outer cover or does a new pigtale need to be put in place?

In any case thanks MoGolf for the instructions and part numbers!

Nick
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Old May 24th, 2009, 13:15   #52
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I have been troubled with this leak for over a month now (~120K Miles). It was sorta funny actually because it wouldn't leak until after I shut the car off when I got home after work. We joked that it was marking its territory. I thought it was the thermostat housing but finally saw this today. I got the pipe out just a bit ago but also keep thinking and looking at the whole thing in disbelief. Its a crazy design that's terrible for maintenance. I may just wait till tomorrow to start going back the other way. I don't think I need that much frustration all crammed into one day.

Thanks MoGolf for the writeup
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Old May 25th, 2009, 09:44   #53
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Just curious, is it necessary to replace the copper sealing washers (N 013 812 3) on the turbo oil line? The local dealer had everything in stock except these and questioned why I wanted to replace them.
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Old May 25th, 2009, 18:12   #54
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Default Crush Seals

Yes, they are crush seals. When I replaced mine, I questioned whether they were the right part. They were so fat compared to what I had removed. If you need to get the car back on the road, you can try putting the old seals back and see if they leak. They are easy enough to get to, so you can replace them once you get them from the dealer or another vendor. They are cheap, so no real reason to take a risk if you don't have to.
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Old November 1st, 2009, 09:49   #55
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Does the whole pipe need to be removed and cleaned or can you just replace the O ring without removing the pipe?

Thanks
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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:53   #56
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Just the o-ring.
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Old November 1st, 2009, 12:13   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOGolf
Just the o-ring.
Thanks, any cleaning of the pipe in that area seems too tight to do, is cleaning essential?
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2007 Benz ML320 CDI too many toys to list
2011 Jetta TDI (CJAA) Highline DSG Reflex Silver 165,000 kms
2004 Jetta TDI PD (BEW) Platinum Metallic Grey 340,000 kms SOLD
2000 Jetta TDI ALH Black 398,000 kms, TT LCA Bushings, TB changed at Windex GTG SOLD

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Old December 27th, 2009, 11:18   #58
AlanTDI
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Hello:
I am in the middle of this....
(removing the parts to get to this part was not to bad)

How much force is needed to pull the pipe from the block?
Thanks
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Old December 27th, 2009, 11:35   #59
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Pull or pry harder. The orings are probably bonded to where they seat. Wiggle and pull and pry, but don't bend the pipe.
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Old December 27th, 2009, 15:07   #60
AlanTDI
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Err, left one of the coolant pipe bolts on...the one closest to the vacuum tank.
Job done, execpt for the coolant refill
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With a Columbia propeller behind of you, you will always come out ahead in the end.
2002 2012 sportswagenTDI DSG / turned in, used $ for rav4
2002 Jetta Wagon/ taking off the road , needs rack / TDI Auto
1996 Passat Wagon / process of getting back on road
2001 Jetta (Red)-wife's /off road , she has 2017 civic
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