vw4life
Veteran Member
yah, how the heck do you get the time and energy?????? I'm jealous what line of work are you in that affords you this "project time?"raymor said:Congratulations...think I need to get in on your time management secret
'99 Audi A4Q/2.0TDI Conversion
- Thread starter TDIsyncro
- Start date
TDIsyncro
Veteran Member
Thanks guys, I get very pumped doing these projects. I guess I do have a lot of energy. VW4life, I am a mechanical designer for industrial process facilities. I work 40-50hrs a week, so not a lot of free time. I have other non-car related projects that seem endless too. Last year I set up for heating my home with grain, so there was storage, and grain handling/cleaning facilities I had to build and set-up. If you look in my u-tube vids, you can see that stuff there. Also designed and built my own snow blower last winter..7' wide, 36" high, 32"dia blower wheel, 3pt hitch mount. Then there are the wifes projects...
VW4life, I am a mechanical designer for industrial process facilities. I work 40-50hrs a week, so not a lot of free time. I have other non-car related projects that seem endless too. Last year I set up for heating my home with grain, so there was storage, and grain handling/cleaning facilities I had to build and set-up. If you look in my u-tube vids, you can see that stuff there. Also designed and built my own snow blower last winter..7' wide, 36" high, 32"dia blower wheel, 3pt hitch mount. Then there are the wifes projects...Hey I would LOVE to pick your brain about this...TDIsyncro said:Thanks guys, I get very pumped doing these projects. I guess I do have a lot of energy.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=251694
Any help/advice on what to do is appreciated!
TDIsyncro
Veteran Member
It's been a while since I have posted any updates.
I took Friday off and used it to convert my Audi to rear wheel drive. I also played with the turbo, MAF delete and Exhaust cut-out a fair bit. I can now get spool to 28 psi by 1900 RPM.
Me and some friends did a bit of cruizing last night and blasted a few civics and an RSX badly. It is pretty sweet shifting into 2nd and 3rd and hearing the tires chirping. Actually - 2nd gear is just a smoke show if I don't regulate the throttle a bunch. My friends were very impressed that I can do a throttle roll on in 2nd at about 50km/hr and start smoking the tires. I am running 225/50/16 Michelin Pro sport A/S tires..so pretty good traction (280 wear).
I have also started accumalting some future mod parts - like a GTB2056VK turbo. Thats the same size as my current, but a 3rd generation..so superior in many ways. Physically, it is a fair bit bigger than the GTA2056V I currently run. I am anticipating a 1500 RPM spool and hoping for about 250-260BHP on the top end. Other upcoming mods - R783 injectors, ported head w/ oversize valves, Rosten Rods, titanium wrist pins, custom cam grind, lower CR on pistons, and I will be going to a FMIC to keep it more clear under the hood. Crank will also have the BS sprocket replaced with a BRM unit I have here - it will then be BS free and run BRM or BEW oil pump.
I will post some pics on the RWD conversion tonight.
I took Friday off and used it to convert my Audi to rear wheel drive. I also played with the turbo, MAF delete and Exhaust cut-out a fair bit. I can now get spool to 28 psi by 1900 RPM.
Me and some friends did a bit of cruizing last night and blasted a few civics and an RSX badly. It is pretty sweet shifting into 2nd and 3rd and hearing the tires chirping. Actually - 2nd gear is just a smoke show if I don't regulate the throttle a bunch. My friends were very impressed that I can do a throttle roll on in 2nd at about 50km/hr and start smoking the tires.
I am running 225/50/16 Michelin Pro sport A/S tires..so pretty good traction (280 wear).I have also started accumalting some future mod parts - like a GTB2056VK turbo.
Thats the same size as my current, but a 3rd generation..so superior in many ways. Physically, it is a fair bit bigger than the GTA2056V I currently run. I am anticipating a 1500 RPM spool and hoping for about 250-260BHP on the top end. Other upcoming mods - R783 injectors, ported head w/ oversize valves, Rosten Rods, titanium wrist pins, custom cam grind, lower CR on pistons, and I will be going to a FMIC to keep it more clear under the hood. Crank will also have the BS sprocket replaced with a BRM unit I have here - it will then be BS free and run BRM or BEW oil pump. I will post some pics on the RWD conversion tonight.
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jjordan11
Veteran Member
That's awesome, I have thought about doing that to the 80, but first I need to finish the conversion and drive it as a Quattro . Did you put a spool in the place of the torsen? and leave the outer cv shell in the front wheels? I look forward to some pictures.
If your interested in selling your old turbo I might be interested.
Jon
. Did you put a spool in the place of the torsen? and leave the outer cv shell in the front wheels? I look forward to some pictures.If your interested in selling your old turbo I might be interested.
Jon
TDIsyncro
Veteran Member
Here are the pictures, as promised.
This is the 01A transmission Torsen Differential cover and differential assembly. This is what splits the torque to front wheels and back wheels.
To convert the car to a rear wheel drive, the diff has to be replaced (and there is nothing available) or it can be locked the old fashion way by welding. There are 3 sets of small gears around outside of the diff assmebly that work in the torque biasing. When these are welded solid to one another, they can no longer torque bias and transfer power to front and back differentials without descretion. If you look closely in this picture, you can see the weld on one of these gear pairs. Too weld the gears, the diff must be pressed out of the housing, cleaned with solvent, wrapped very well to prevent stray spatter from getting in the rest of the parts, brushed, thouroughly cleaned and then pressed back into cover. A new set of seals are required during reassembly.
Installation required dropping the exhaust, drive shaft shroud, and front driveshaft CV connection. The diff cover can then be unbolted and tapped off with a hammer.
This is the transmission without the diff and diff cover. Note the spring in the center..do not loose!
With the welded diff now installed, the front axles need to be removed so the driveline is not put under undue stress. Another option to the RWD set-up is to leave the front axels in place, and completely remove the rear drive shaft. The car would then be FWD instead of RWD.
When the front axles are removed, they must be replaced with outer CV joints so that the front wheel bearings have support and the ABS ring is available for the ABS system. The picture shows what you install. Just pop of the end of the axle, remove the bearings and cage, and clean out the grease.
Job done.
I am now set-up for using a local dynometer for further tuning and testing. Frankly, the tires spin so easy now its would be annoying to drive like this all the time. I will switch back to AWD in the late fall for good winter traction. I think next spring I will install a Stassis or Quaiffe rear diff LSD and run RWD again. I think that will be a really sweet set-up.
This is the 01A transmission Torsen Differential cover and differential assembly. This is what splits the torque to front wheels and back wheels.
To convert the car to a rear wheel drive, the diff has to be replaced (and there is nothing available) or it can be locked the old fashion way by welding. There are 3 sets of small gears around outside of the diff assmebly that work in the torque biasing. When these are welded solid to one another, they can no longer torque bias and transfer power to front and back differentials without descretion. If you look closely in this picture, you can see the weld on one of these gear pairs. Too weld the gears, the diff must be pressed out of the housing, cleaned with solvent, wrapped very well to prevent stray spatter from getting in the rest of the parts, brushed, thouroughly cleaned and then pressed back into cover. A new set of seals are required during reassembly.
Installation required dropping the exhaust, drive shaft shroud, and front driveshaft CV connection. The diff cover can then be unbolted and tapped off with a hammer.
This is the transmission without the diff and diff cover. Note the spring in the center..do not loose!
With the welded diff now installed, the front axles need to be removed so the driveline is not put under undue stress. Another option to the RWD set-up is to leave the front axels in place, and completely remove the rear drive shaft. The car would then be FWD instead of RWD.
When the front axles are removed, they must be replaced with outer CV joints so that the front wheel bearings have support and the ABS ring is available for the ABS system. The picture shows what you install. Just pop of the end of the axle, remove the bearings and cage, and clean out the grease.
Job done.
I am now set-up for using a local dynometer for further tuning and testing. Frankly, the tires spin so easy now its would be annoying to drive like this all the time. I will switch back to AWD in the late fall for good winter traction. I think next spring I will install a Stassis or Quaiffe rear diff LSD and run RWD again. I think that will be a really sweet set-up.
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G60ING
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2001
- Location
- MD
- TDI
- No TDIs Currently, I have an R36 Corrado. I've had an ALH Corrado swap, AHU Corrado swap and 2003 TDI Jetta
TDIsyncro said:Here are the pictures, as promised.
This is the 01A transmission Torsen Differential cover and differential assembly. This is what splits the torque to front wheels and back wheels.
To convert the car to a rear wheel drive, the diff has to be replaced (and there is nothing available) or it can be locked the old fashion way by welding. There are 3 sets of small gears around outside of the diff assmebly that work in the torque biasing. When these are welded solid to one another, they can no longer torque bias and transfer power to front and back differentials without descretion. If you look closely in this picture, you can see the weld on one of these gear pairs. Too weld the gears, the diff must be pressed out of the housing, cleaned with solvent, wrapped very well to prevent stray spatter from getting in the rest of the parts, brushed, thouroughly cleaned and then pressed back into cover. A new set of seals are required during reassembly.
Installation required dropping the exhaust, drive shaft shroud, and front driveshaft CV connection. The diff cover can then be unbolted and tapped off with a hammer.
This is the transmission without the diff and diff cover. Note the spring in the center..do not loose!
With the welded diff now installed, the front axles need to be removed so the driveline is not put under undue stress. Another option to the RWD set-up is to leave the front axels in place, and completely remove the rear drive shaft. The car would then be FWD instead of RWD.
When the front axles are removed, they must be replaced with outer CV joints so that the front wheel bearings have support and the ABS ring is available for the ABS system. The picture shows what you install. Just pop of the end of the axle, remove the bearings and cage, and clean out the grease.
Job done.
I am now set-up for using a local dynometer for further tuning and testing. Frankly, the tires spin so easy now its would be annoying to drive like this all the time. I will switch back to AWD in the late fall for good winter traction. I think next spring I will install a Stassis or Quaiffe rear diff LSD and run RWD again. I think that will be a really sweet set-up.
I always figured the Audi awd transmission could be setup for RWD but I never knew exactly what had to be done. Thank you. My TDI or VR6 or 1.8T Tacoma may happen someday.
This is such a slick set up - I love it
oNe thing I have to comment on and I know its kind of late now but if you wanted you could have used the MKIV 2.0 8V Accessory bracket and put all the accessorys on the driver side.
But looks good none the less
esorense
Active member
Hi, nice build you got here I have a couple questions regarding your flywheel installation. Hopefully you can help me. I received my ECS stage 2 clutch assembly earlier this week and attempted to mount this today.
Since my AVF is delivered with a stock 240mm dmf i ended up getting nowhere fast as my stock starter was not suitable for use with the ECS kit. (also the crankshaft oil seal turned out to be busted as well) Did you use the stock BHW starter on your setup? Im guessing the BHW comes with a 228mm dmf as stock
Also originally there is a spacer between the tranny and engineblock on my car. I do think that will have to go when i reinstall the gearbox but i thought id ask if you are using anything inbetween? Looks to me like you are not..
Hope you can help pointing me in the right direction even if you perhaps(i guess probably) dont have first hand knowledge of my setup
Regards Espen
I have a couple questions regarding your flywheel installation. Hopefully you can help me. I received my ECS stage 2 clutch assembly earlier this week and attempted to mount this today. Since my AVF is delivered with a stock 240mm dmf i ended up getting nowhere fast as my stock starter was not suitable for use with the ECS kit. (also the crankshaft oil seal turned out to be busted as well
) Did you use the stock BHW starter on your setup? Im guessing the BHW comes with a 228mm dmf as stock Also originally there is a spacer between the tranny and engineblock on my car. I do think that will have to go when i reinstall the gearbox but i thought id ask if you are using anything inbetween? Looks to me like you are not..
Hope you can help pointing me in the right direction even if you perhaps(i guess probably) dont have first hand knowledge of my setup
Regards Espen
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TDIsyncro
Veteran Member
I did use the stock BHW starter. The BHW is automatic, you would have to cross reference with BGW (Europe Passat) to get a manual flywheel comparison. I could guess it is 228mm, but don't know for sure since we dont have them in NA.
I did not use a spacer.
I did not use a spacer.
esorense said:Hi, nice build you got here
Since my AVF is delivered with a stock 240mm dmf i ended up getting nowhere fast as my stock starter was not suitable for use with the ECS kit. (also the crankshaft oil seal turned out to be busted as well
Also originally there is a spacer between the tranny and engineblock on my car. I do think that will have to go when i reinstall the gearbox but i thought id ask if you are using anything inbetween? Looks to me like you are not..
Hope you can help pointing me in the right direction even if you perhaps(i guess probably) dont have first hand knowledge of my setup
Regards Espen
esorense
Active member
Thanks for the reply, i could not find the BHW in my "Akte" so I had to guess it had the 228mm FW. The AVF also uses 228mm for the automatic so i sourced a starter from such a car and it fit perfectly.
Did you use the slave cylinder rod that came with the ECS kit btw, we decided to machine one ourselves since the stock was to short and the ECS seemed to be 4-5mm to long
Sorry for the OT
Did you use the slave cylinder rod that came with the ECS kit btw, we decided to machine one ourselves since the stock was to short and the ECS seemed to be 4-5mm to long
Sorry for the OT
TDIsyncro
Veteran Member
glad you found a starter to fit.
My ECS kit did not come with a slave rod. I just used the OEM one and have had perfect engagment distance..I really could not be happier with this set-up.
My ECS kit did not come with a slave rod.
I just used the OEM one and have had perfect engagment distance..I really could not be happier with this set-up.
papadelogan
Veteran Member
I'm almost scared to ask what this would cost.... I'd LOVE to have an A4 Quattro diesel, but the $$ to do so seems... intimidating.
TDIsyncro
Veteran Member
There is a cost summary on the first page of the thread. I spent a lot more than that summary because of trying different options and performance mods.papadelogan said:
I think I have pointed out before that there a various shortcuts one can do for a low budget build and get it done for about 6KUS. That would be using a 1.8T or V6 tranny, poor gearing for highway useage, but perfectly good for urban commuting.
TDIsyncro
Veteran Member
I am not sure if the Passat body can just take the 4motion rear diff/subframe assembly as a bolt on or if fab mods are required. In the past (B3), the wagon version were a bolt on for syncro subframe, but the sedan had different floor pans. Sombody else on here probably knows. If it was a bolt on, you could get away with an Audi TDI triptronic from Europe, ECU, some wire mods, rear subframe with diff, axels, drive shaft and hanger bearings. Perhaps a different fuel tank and exhaust mods as well. Ask Scott Dewitt what he thinks.rspring said:
Scott_DeWitt
Vendor
To be honest the simple answer would be to get an AWD car.rspring said:
To convert a FWD passat to 4 motion you are looking at replacing the rear floor pan and parts of the transmission tunnel meaning expensive body shop work in a frame jig and expensive body parts. And after the body work is complete you have to source the rear portion of the drive train and transmission.
If you must have AWD start with a 4 motion passat or audi A4 quattro and do the engine conversion.
Scott_DeWitt
Vendor
Sigh and 18 months later I'm still trying to get caught up with paying customers... One problem working your own business, you don't get paid to fix your own stuff...Scott_DeWitt said:
dieselpower04
Veteran Member
Bump for updates?
TDIsyncro
Veteran Member
well.. it has been an amazing ride. I truley loved this car!! Was keeping everything in top shape. Had added HID's and some body molding deletes (bit of mig welding and painting to accomplish this). Unfortunately, ex wife totalled it of in a highway accident. The good news..the rad support, motor, tranny, and all the other conversion parts were untouched by the accident. The bad news..the rest of the car is not recoverable. The impact tore of the front passanger wheel before the main impact hit the A pillar and twisted the whole cab causing the windows to blow out and air bags to go off. It is sitting in storage right now. Amazingly, the pickup truck that hit it was in much worse shape and also ended up rolling several times in the ditch. The ex was unhurt in anyway other than little bits of glass all over her...so yes..A4s are VERY safe! I am contemplating selling everything as a pacakge and have a new build to replace this daily driver..perhaps posted in 4 to 6 months time. right now I am focused on work and project insane. It is a very sad circumstance..and I have yet to recieve any insurance 6 months later.
dieselpower04
Veteran Member
Oh crap! Glad everyone is alright!
Good luck with the new project!
Good luck with the new project!
DieselFan1984
Veteran Member
Wow! I'm sorry to hear about the wreck. Glad everyone was okay though! NoJoke is right, you can do something new and better if you choose
Any ideas what you might consider doing? Or has work consumed that much of your brain?! LOL
Any ideas what you might consider doing? Or has work consumed that much of your brain?! LOL
TDIsyncro
Veteran Member
thanks guys. and yes, I do have anouther project planned. I am just trying to stay focused on project insane right now. Once I get that motor together and running I will divert some energy into the next build.
papadelogan
Veteran Member
well.. it has been an amazing ride. I truley loved this car!! Was keeping everything in top shape. Had added HID's and some body molding deletes (bit of mig welding and painting to accomplish this). Unfortunately, ex wife totalled it of in a highway accident. The good news..the rad support, motor, tranny, and all the other conversion parts were untouched by the accident. The bad news..the rest of the car is not recoverable. The impact tore of the front passanger wheel before the main impact hit the A pillar and twisted the whole cab causing the windows to blow out and air bags to go off. It is sitting in storage right now. Amazingly, the pickup truck that hit it was in much worse shape and also ended up rolling several times in the ditch. The ex was unhurt in anyway other than little bits of glass all over her...so yes..A4s are VERY safe! I am contemplating selling everything as a pacakge and have a new build to replace this daily driver..perhaps posted in 4 to 6 months time. right now I am focused on work and project insane. It is a very sad circumstance..and I have yet to recieve any insurance 6 months later.
Screw insurance, make her pay you for the loss of the car, materials, and hours of labor you put in!!! DAMN!! IF someone borrows one of my vehicles, before they leave, we agree "You break it, you bought it".
First time my wife drove my Excursion, rock chipped the windshield. This was just after I drove it home 1,000 miles with no issues.
First time she drove the little commuter Mazda I bought, a tire blew out.
Last time she drove my F250, she broke the end off the gear selector.
I swear I think sometimes they get jealous of the time we spend on other things and subconsciously have a need to break or destroy them.
Back more to the original vein of this thread, I now have a 2005.5 Audi A4 (B7) 2.0T quattro 6MT that I am hoping to get a b-pillar cut of a German 2.0 TDI quattro 6MT and swap over.
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Good job!!Impresive!
I have a question !
How did you fit that 240mm clutch into a 5 speed gearbox?
I thought that 5 spped are good for only 228or 230mm clutch
Does that flywheel make any noise?from your posted videos it semns that no,I just whant to be sure..
Waiting for reply! Thanks
I have a question !
How did you fit that 240mm clutch into a 5 speed gearbox?
I thought that 5 spped are good for only 228or 230mm clutch
Does that flywheel make any noise?from your posted videos it semns that no,I just whant to be sure..
Waiting for reply! Thanks
onlyn8v
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2005
- Location
- Long Island NY
So Im planning a full ALH into a B5. Im glad I discovered this thread so I could get a lot of info. Thanks!